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Rock Climbing Photo: Jared LaVacque on Acromion Division, currently the...


Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Jared LaVacque

Point Rank: # 82
Total Points: 5,321
Last Year: 280
Last 30 Days: 23
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1726 | Routes 95 | Areas 36 | Photos 726 | Page Improvements | Comments 201 | Posts 8 | Stars 480 | Ratings 180
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Luckily, Andy, the mosquitoes are at bay so far this year, so I will hold off on the propane deterrent. Someone else already installed signage though I have yet to locate it, because of the 4 times I have been there this season, there were other parties...and the last session, a total of 10 people other than myself. The shade is provided by the canopy as you well know, so no Home Depot run for that is necessary. Bolts are approximately every five feet...so I guess we could upgrade to 5/8 inch gl... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Mike L. Boltin (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stand and Deliver (5.13a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Chump Monkey Among Us. (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : On Your Celtic Way (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Hello Chris, the comment on this route was applicable to some of the crux holds getting smaller since it was bolted...but not meaning that the route has gotten worse or anything, just that it has cleaned up a nicely, given the rock in the area. Basically, the grade became solidified and the route climbs nicely as a result of it, which, as you know at some of the other areas where exfoliation happens more frequently, the hold breaks can definitely alter the quality of the route. In the case of Th... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : On Your Celtic Way (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: The comment made was from the first ascentionist, commenting on the original grade and how it has changed over the years.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : Onomatopoeia (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: On similar rock certainly, similar features doubtful.. on similar rock. The features here are quite different from Wookie, Purinton(as you would know) and the other lot on the Glenn. But, my initial comment was to reflect that I went climbing with the bolting party yesterday and conversation was about the holds that had changed. That was the point. Given the fact that this wall went up before Weiner and the person speaking bolted the line, I think my comment stands as his observation. Troll on..... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : Onomatopoeia (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 10, 2016

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Comments: Went out climbing with the 1st ascent party on a few routes at Weekender and it is agreed that the holds have become smaller on this and others, causing the grades to be stiffer than they are in the guidebook and on MP. Granted the rock here exfoliates less than nearby areas, but over time has become less friable and cleaner. Over the bulge, holds have deteriorated, yielding a crux that is thinner and goes less easily the way it did when bolted originally. Harder more straight-forward sequences ... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : On Your Celtic Way (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 10, 2016

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Comments: Went out climbing with the 1st ascent party on a few routes at Weekender today and it is agreed that the holds have become smaller on this and others, causing the grades to be stiffer than they are in the guidebook and on MP. Granted the rock here exfoliates less than nearby areas, but over time has become less friable and cleaner. Approximate grade of this line is .11d or .11+ and solid at it.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: Definitely not the only one, Senor Clark Griswald. If we could somehow take the entire shit rock-band, minus the 20-40 or so lines that aren't complete seasonal freeze and thaw choss bombs, along the HWY, and place them on one cliff, the rest of it could be removed as well, as it exfoliates itself on a yearly basis. This place, and the entire highway, is a safety hazard for climbers and should be treated as such, not revered for its closeness...certainly not its quality. There are routes along t... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park Boulder Area : Plethora Boulder (Right Gon...
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: It was removed by the user that submitted it a while back.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Right Cave : Break the Chains (5.12a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: I definitely think some of the lines are sandbagged, but definitely not all. For instance, I think Room climbs a bit more like a face climb and feels a bit less physical as a result even though it's letter grades harder. The middle grades at the wall are the ones that are a gray area, as they seem to require "body English" atypical of other areas. It reminds me of the physical nature of Rifle, which takes time to get used to the non-down pulling nature of the rock, but when you grow accustomed t... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Right Cave : Break the Chains (5.12a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: The first pitch is approximately 35 feet long. The first pitch anchor to the second anchor is approximately 40 feet, making the second anchor at approximately 70-75 feet. The third anchor is another 30-35 feet above the second. According to people who have been climbing in the area for many years and as of today, as a reference, there are a lot of holds in the first pitch and second pitch that have become smaller, both feet and hands. Calling the route a .12a/b or b might leave you feeling quite... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Chickaloon Boulders : Supernova and Pop Start Bou... : Wishful Thinking Traverse (V6) : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Upon reaching this hold, trend left on slopers and oppositional holds for approximately 8-10 feet and then topout around the corner.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Blue Moon Boulder Area : ... : Chipped & Nicked (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Who the hell are Chip and Nick?


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Texas Boulder Area : ... : The Dakota River Forge (V7-)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 12, 2016

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Comments: As a general note, the grade of this varies depending on the start and sequence used. It is very easy to stray left and get off route. The FA relied heavily on the right blunt corner and avoided the good holds to the left of the start (within reason). That being said, the most direct and original line is closer to V7 but can vary between V5-V7, depending on adherence to the original, depicted in the beta photos.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Anchor Point Boulder
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: The access coming across the field from the bridge, per the initial instructions should still be legal. It is a pain in the ass however, depending on the temperament of the river. And, there is a back way, if you know where to park and, so you end up dropping down behind the boulder. Surprisingly enough, the land owners on adjacent properties are friendly if you approach them and don't make assumptions.Also, there are a few locals who could fill you in on that and live in Homer.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Pullin' Down in the Fields ... (5.10a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: The FA/bolting party is Travis Nolen in 1995.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : Burnt Tree Traverse (V6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments:


Halfway through the video,the Burnt Tree Traverse section starts.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Stint Block
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Good ol' Black Gold and not the Texas Tea variation.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Mike L. Boltin (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: A crux move of V4 does translate to the route being .12a. Goliath in New Mexico is .13a and has no move harder than V4, but has 20-30 V4s. Several factors come into play when establishing grades.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Give me a PM for my phone number and more information. Anchorage has a great climbing community. He is a glimpse at the alpine bouldering within an hour of Anchorage.



Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Anchor Point Boulder : Iceberg Slim (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Route location is corrected.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Anchor Point Boulder
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: I have a copy of the original topo if anyone wants it. Just PM me.


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