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Rock Climbing Photo: Jared LaVacque on Acromion Division, currently the...


Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Jared LaVacque

Point Rank: # 82
Total Points: 5,335
Last Year: 293
Last 30 Days: 16
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1746 | Routes 95 | Areas 36 | Photos 728 | Page Improvements | Comments 205 | Posts 8 | Stars 489 | Ratings 185
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: 1 day ago

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Comments: The anchor and the churd band is most certainly gone for Herbalistic Vision and 20/20. All bolts are scary and suspect. Each time on the route, except for the first go to weight the bolts and check route quality, all hell broke loose. They are dry, but 8 years of seepage took already marginal rock and made it dangerous.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The left hand hold exploded in my face today, make jokes. The HWY is a savior's grace and a bomb, even within the most "solid". Come Join Us. And not climb here. Dirt with the left, dirt with the right, two times and 4 holds later. Much harder.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stonemaster (5.10c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: Whoa, so I can replace my Bosch with a spray can of bolts!? I am not sure we have a demographic statistician that specializes in Dew Mound routes yet. Not quite a budget for it at this point. Perhaps we can make a non-profit PFD campaign out of it? Anyway, not having bolts where gear can be placed is just fine. But, generally speaking, Andy, placing bolts in places where the rock is conducive and people can clip them without having to lasso them instead, is generally a popular trait some other s... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stonemaster (5.10c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: Lang, I dig. But, the same applies to the first pitch. The 1st bolt might as well be the 2nd. I changed the comment, to reflect that I was commenting on both pitches, but then rambled about the 1st, but didn't mean to disclude the 2nd.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stand and Deliver (5.13a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: The crux is approximately V6 and on the stiff side of it, uses a series of 7 side-pulls and nothing down-pulling until after the finishing deadpoint. The feet are less than ideal going through the crux, especially the left ones. Pre-clip the 2nd bolt. There is no plausible clipping stance and the first functions more as a directional to keep the rope from between your legs. The first is easy to clip and is reachable as soon as you step off the ground. Falling with the 2nd clipped is safe but wil... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stonemaster (5.10c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Lang and Ben are correct on this, pertaining to the 1st and 2nd bolt in respect to the 1st pitch and the 2nd, for different reasons. The 1st bolt is irrelevant, as by the time you are a few feet above and should a fall occur, you would deck. The fist bolt is just above arm height and the 2nd is at about 17-18 feet up. Bring a stick clip for this section and pre-clip the 2nd or 1st/2nd bolts.

There are a few routes on the wall, in addition to this that have bolts in less than ideal places while... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: Hey Big Nobody, why don't you prick on someone your own size. I know we are all weird out here, but you actually suck at quoting movies and music. Kindly load the trichinosis in your kale smoothie. Cheers Luv.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Independence Mine Boulderin... : Black Face Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: Maybe you should enroll in the "Derrick Zoolander school for children who can't read good."


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : ** Bouldering in Icicle Cre... : The Fridge : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: I agree, it most certainly is. I need to make my way back down there in the near future.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Captain Hook's Grotto : Ruffio (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 20, 2016

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Comments: Definitely dusty but the pockets are good as I remember. Better than Blessed and Blissed at Pogues, for a route of similar grade and angle.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stonemaster (5.10c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: As with a couple of other routes in this area, there are a few sections that can lead to getting off route without knowing and making the grade a little harder than the consensus. Without spoiling the beta, if things start feeling too crimpy and sloping, head right toward hanging pinches on a shallow arching roof ;) Either way, if you are planning on projecting any of the harder routes in the area, doing a few warm-up laps on this line is a great choice.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Mike L. Boltin (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 14, 2016

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Comments: A hold at the crux broke, leaving another less positive yet not bad hold in it's place or... making yarding on a sharp finger-lock more necessary. 7/14/2016


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Goodbye Blue Sky (V9-10)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: Thanks, Kevin! Both Nick and I know folks who did this problem at disparate time frames since the late 1990s. However, nobody had decided to name it because of the prominent nature of the boulder in that area, as they are not sure that they were the FA. You picked a great name for it, and unless anyone who did it previously decides to change the name, Goodbye Blue Sky will remain the name. Regardless of the name, it's a great problem and a solid send. I hope this summer finds... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Main Boulder
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: The problems on this have been done earlier than as 1997(by locals to Junction and potentially prior to that) and later. This, being the most prominent boulder in the particular area, was largely developed at the time and after the R&I mini-guide in the mid-1990s by Luke Laeser and Ed Strang. The folks that I know that did these problems don't actually wish to take the FA(in text), as they even are not sure if they had the FA. Just for a small gesture on history, there used t... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Goodbye Blue Sky (V9-10)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: This problem has been done and as early as 1997 (by locals to Junction and potentially prior to that) and later. This, being the most prominent boulder in the particular area, was largely developed at the time and after the R&I mini-guide in the mid-1990s by Luke Laeser and Ed Strang. The folks that I know that did this problem don't actually wish to take the FA (in text), as they even are not sure if they had the FA. Just for a small gesture on history, there used to be Gill... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Broken Bit (5.10d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: There is a loose/hollow sounding pillar left of the bolt line, above the obvious chock-stone, between the 3-4th bolt. Avoid this. Staying with the bolt line directly in this area uses a side-pull and undercling/sidepull to gain an edge. This completely avoids the potentially dangerous area....the jugs on the pillar are tempting, but not worth the risk.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Dirt Burger (5.10c/d PG13)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: As of 7/4/2016 someone has made a serious effort to have others avoid this line. There is a downed tree that is placed against the wall at the base and a stick through the first bolt below the fixed pin.

This route is a choss pile. My guess is that the newly fallen crud that skirts the base recently exfoliated while someone was climbing it...as there are few new sizable blocks as far away as Broken Bit, which is to the right 15 feet. This line is a "Bomb" rating f... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Black Wave Boulder Area : ... : Stephie Pockets (V4)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Nice looking line!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Silver Spoon (5.5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: This line is 9a. If you can climb 9a and argue with my resume, call me out.

But, on an aside. This awesome rig was sketchier for me to climb, though great by all Garden standards, even after I was flashing consistently in the .12 grade in the 90s and redpointing .13/.14.

The lines in the Garden and the lines anywhere in the U.S. capped at .10, way prior to most of the comment making folks were born...and maybe your parents.

Old school 5.5-5.11 will kick your ass, get over it.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park Boulder Area : ... : Plethora Ninja (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: That hold was sketchy in 2005, kinda surprised it's still there!


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: The low XX marker on the photo is a great place to place a .75 cam, as there in no directional bolt. The purpose of this is to keep the rope out of the climbers way while climbing(and not between the legs).


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : Sat Nam (5.13b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: 6/10/16 Sat Nam is probably closer to .13b now, versus .13a. At the end of the crux, 7 years ago, I broke a 15 pound undercling off, on my 2nd lap on the route. This hold(when intact) made the transition from just under the 3rd bolt much more fluid. It is now more thrutchy and the boulder problem keeps going for a couple more moves.
This route is now comparable in grade, though slightly taller than Harpooned on the Glenn, which is consensus .13b. So, for similar height and a boulder problem, ... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : Naught For All (5.11a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: This line is sketchy to lead. The reason being is that the potential to fall moving toward the 2nd bolt is higher than one would like and the fall would result in hitting the ledge and or shelf system, making the first bolt rather ineffective. The crux is more bouldery than All for Naught.

The moves from the 2nd bolt to the anchor can be done two different way, directionally. Either move up and then traverse left to the anchor, or keep the bouldery moves going by diagonally left and enjoying mo... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : All For Naught (5.10d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Cleaned the lichen and moss of of the holds today making the route much more appealing. Climbs better than it right-ward neighbor(in terms of being smooth and flowing well). A crashpad or stick clip is probably a good idea if you don't have gear prior to the first bolt, as the root system is an ankle loving nightmare.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : On Your Celtic Way (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Route Update:

As of 6/8/2016, almost a month since my last visit, the jugs to the right of the first bolt have broken, still leaving good holds, with one more that is loose(marked with an X). Upon descending to run another lap, I pulled a collection of holds of the large tufa-bucket.

Since my last visit, someone else exfoliated a large seemingly solid flake at the 3rd bolt. The grade became more reinforced with these two large breaks, but not by much. Unfortunately, the 3rd bolt area became l... more >>


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