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Rock Climbing Photo: Jared LaVacque on Acromion Division, currently the...


Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 45 mins ago
Contact Jared LaVacque

Point Rank: # 85
Total Points: 5,086
Last Year: 58
Last 30 Days: 4
13 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1599 | Routes 92 | Areas 35 | Photos 695 | Page Improvements | Comments 166 | Posts 7 | Stars 441 | Ratings 163
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: Definitely not the only one, Senor Clark Griswald. If we could somehow take the entire shit rock-band, minus the 20-40 or so lines that aren't complete seasonal freeze and thaw choss bombs, along the HWY, and place them on one cliff, the rest of it could be removed as well, as it exfoliates itself on a yearly basis. This place, and the entire highway, is a safety hazard for climbers and should be treated as such, not revered for its closeness...certainly not its quality. There are routes along t... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park Boulder Area : Plethora Boulder (Right Gon...
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: It was removed by the user that submitted it a while back.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Right Cave : Break the Chains (5.12a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: I definitely think some of the lines are sandbagged, but definitely not all. For instance, I think Room climbs a bit more like a face climb and feels a bit less physical as a result even though it's letter grades harder. The middle grades at the wall are the ones that are a gray area, as they seem to require "body English" atypical of other areas. It reminds me of the physical nature of Rifle, which takes time to get used to the non-down pulling nature of the rock, but when you grow accustomed t... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Right Cave : Break the Chains (5.12a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: The first pitch is approximately 35 feet long. The first pitch anchor to the second anchor is approximately 40 feet, making the second anchor at approximately 70-75 feet. The third anchor is another 30-35 feet above the second. According to people who have been climbing in the area for many years and as of today, as a reference, there are a lot of holds in the first pitch and second pitch that have become smaller, both feet and hands. Calling the route a .12a/b or b might leave you feeling quite... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Chickaloon Boulders : Supernova and Pop Start Bou... : Wishful Thinking Traverse (V6) : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Upon reaching this hold, trend left on slopers and oppositional holds for approximately 8-10 feet and then topout around the corner.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Blue Moon Boulder Area : ... : Chipped & Nicked (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Who the hell are Chip and Nick?


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Texas Boulder Area : ... : The Dakota River Forge (V7-)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 12, 2016

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Comments: As a general note, the grade of this varies depending on the start and sequence used. It is very easy to stray left and get off route. The FA relied heavily on the right blunt corner and avoided the good holds to the left of the start (within reason). That being said, the most direct and original line is closer to V7 but can vary between V5-V7, depending on adherence to the original, depicted in the beta photos.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Anchor Point Boulder
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: The access coming across the field from the bridge, per the initial instructions should still be legal. It is a pain in the ass however, depending on the temperament of the river. And, there is a back way, if you know where to park and, so you end up dropping down behind the boulder. Surprisingly enough, the land owners on adjacent properties are friendly if you approach them and don't make assumptions.Also, there are a few locals who could fill you in on that and live in Homer.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Pullin' Down in the Fields ... (5.10a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: The FA/bolting party is Travis Nolen in 1995.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : Burnt Tree Traverse (5.12a V6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments:


Halfway through the video,the Burnt Tree Traverse section starts.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Stint Block
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Good ol' Black Gold and not the Texas Tea variation.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Mike L. Boltin (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: A crux move of V4 does translate to the route being .12a. Goliath in New Mexico is .13a and has no move harder than V4, but has 20-30 V4s. Several factors come into play when establishing grades.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Give me a PM for my phone number and more information. Anchorage has a great climbing community. He is a glimpse at the alpine bouldering within an hour of Anchorage.



Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Anchor Point Boulder : Iceberg Slim (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Route location is corrected.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Anchor Point Boulder
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: I have a copy of the original topo if anyone wants it. Just PM me.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Anchor Point Boulder : Last Caress (V2)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Yeah there is quite a garden on the top.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Dynamite Shacks
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: The reorganization definitely looks good, Brad!


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Chickaloon Boulders : Supernova and Pop Start Bou... : Wishful Thinking (V5-6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: There is a traverse to this problem called the Wishful Thinking Traverse. It starts on the same pinch-slopers and goes left at the first hold, through a series of heel hooks, pinches and blocks. It is V6 and finishes on a hidden jug around the corner.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: Get in touch with the Western Colorado Climbers Coalition and find out if this indeed on private property. If it is not, they need to be notified that they have no business removing anchors etc.

westernslopeclimbers.blogspot....


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Bikini Jones and The Termit... (V4)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Does God play dice with these curious folks?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : The Extremist (former enter... (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, except that both are "not considered .12a today". The Extremist is .12a or a/b, and Anarchy is .12c.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Magic Tricks (V7-8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: Hey Andy,

As an admin, thanks for posting the route. It's a good line, between two other good lines. I tend to compare routes I have done across the country that are standards for the grade and then correlate similar movement. Either way, like I said, it climbs well and reminds me of My 15 Minutes, a V7 at Hueco Tanks on the closed Mushroom Boulder. Out of curiosity, PM me, which problem did someone say was V10? Also, if you want to head out bouldering and have me show you some lines that you m... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Young Lust (V5-6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: I agree with your grade, definitely with your height/span. However, one of the purposes of MP is consensus grading, versus the guidebook format, reliant on one person's opinion. For me, I would say V5ish...but like I said, it is slightly height-dependent. Having climbed in the canyon for 20 years and establishing problems all over Grand Valley, my opinion is still just that, as is yours. As an admin for MP, thanks for providing feedback, and it was nice to briefly meet you.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Black Wave Boulder Area : Gyrus Block
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Woohoo, anatomy! Thanks for naming it that, Nick.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Endocrine Disruptor (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Definitely a great line that will test your crimp strength and flexibility. A bit hard for the grade, so don't let that fool you.


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