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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Cumulus (V11-12)
By: jammer When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Misha. I think this is an aesthetic and fun moving line, and definitely worth a try. Very crimpy and technical.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Ghost Dance (5.11)
By: jammer When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slim, my friend Jeff who is about 180 lbs. claims there is a bomber sideways nut placement that protects the crux quite well. Probably still wouldn't want to fall once you hit the good jams thoug... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Worm Drive : Where The Wild Things Are (5.13- V7)
By: jammer When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only top down vs. ground up, style or ethics or whatever. A cleaning would still be nice though. Maybe on one of these bad weather days I will get out there. For a cleaner one, you should check out Flight of the Owl.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Big Pink (5.11b)
By: jammer When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason, I thought this was harder than Trip Master as well, though I did both that and Squat before I could do this or Jays Solo, so part of that was a poor understanding of proper arm barring technique, which I have since figured out. Nonetheless, this thing is a sandbag, even compared to other sandbags at Vedauwoo.
The inspiration for this one came from a certain offwidth aficionado who told Bob he could onsight any 5.11 at Vedauwoo. Bob took him to this one and after he got shut ... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Gorilla Rock : Gash (5.10b)
By: jammer When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What standards would those be? Grades in Vedauwoo range from honest to completely sandbagged, and everything in between. As far as wide "standards" at Vedauwoo go, are we talking Jays Solo standards, or Maxilash standards? Jays solo is given 5.10, and Maxilash was originally given 5.10+, though I couldn't mistake the two because in my opinion Jays Solo is distinctly harder. While both may or may not be stiff when compared to 5.10's and 5.10+'s in other areas, to pretend that there is some so... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coyote Rocks : Home on the Range (5.14-)
By: jammer When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Richard, I know which crack you are talking about. Do you happen to know if that is private property or part of Curt Gowdy?
Brian, again, thank you for your support on this. A Z4 is also my limit, though that is more psychological than anything. Both the Z4 and Z3 are 6kn, so they are equally good when placed well.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coyote Rocks : Home on the Range (5.14-)
By: jammer When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Pete and Wade. Not a stupid question at all, Wade. A Z# is what Wild Country uses to signify the sizes on their Zero camming units. Specifically, a Z4 would be roughly equivalent in size to a blue Alien. The stem design on the Zero's is brilliant in my opinion and on this particular route that design gave me a greater comfort of ... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coyote Rocks : Home on the Range (5.14-)
By: jammer When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks guys. Molony, in terms of cracks it might just be. Another contender would be Fiddler on the Roof with Steve Petro's beta. Though new beta has been uncovered for that one which makes it easier, in my opinion Steves solution has to be at least V12, though I can't really comment on that one in any meaningful way because I can't do it the way he did. Pretty sick for the eighties, and in Fires no less.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coyote Rocks : Home on the Range (5.14-)
By: jammer When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The grade on this is nothing but a proposition, and it is meant to be honest when compared to other crack climbs around the U.S. Matt Segal checked out the line before I did the FA and he told me he felt that it was solid 14, so it might even be on the stiff side. I was going to call it 13+, but after hearing what Matt thought I decided to split the difference. Repeats will help settle the grade, up or down. For me, the one time I TR'd it, I felt like it was equivalent to a power endurance V... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Parade Rock
By: jammer When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I checked it out a few years ago and the splitter section felt really hard. Never thought to push over that pedestal at the base, though I seem to remember thinking that it would be a nicer and longer pitch if it wasn't there.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Parade Rock
By: jammer When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Squatting Bear, I have mixed feelings about that. It may have extended a possibly cool new route, but if the forest service found out about that they might get pissed. Though they would likely never find out about such a thing on their own, it might be best not to admit to it on a website. That being said, I am just curious what prompted you to push that thing over? If/when it goes, it will be a very nice hard classic. It is one of the nicest undone lines I have seen at Vedauwoo.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Parade Rock
By: jammer When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is obviously undone. It is splitter overhanging Z4's or blue Aliens, and the inside of the crack is smooth like Old Dogs New Trick. It used to have a pedestal at the base of it, though that pedestal fell down recently.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Plumb Line (5.9+)
By: jammer When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For one I would second Scoggins' statement that this is stiff for 5.9 when compared to contemporary standards, and especially so if you have small hands. I however disagree that this is middle of the road for 5.9 at Vedauwoo, and not just hand cracks. Probably not the hardest, but definitely at the top end of the grade for this area. The only one that really comes to mind as being harder is Climb and Punishment, but only because it is longer and therefore has an endurance component. There ar... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Spaghetti aka Third Lost Wa... : Only The Lonely (5.9+) : Photo
By: jammer When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, it's immaculate. "5.9+" nudge, nudge, wink, wink.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Spaghetti aka Third Lost Wa... : Only The Lonely (5.9+) : Photo
By: jammer When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's the one on the left.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Roof Ranch : The Sparkling Touch (5.13- V7)
By: jammer When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian Vansickle (superhero), Pat is not full of shit here, sorry. He showed Weak Become Heroes to my friend, Jeremy Medley, years ago. I believe him on this one too, and I'm sure there are more. Plain and simple, the guy is just not the type to B.S. about this kind of stuff. Everyone I know who knows him too tells me how much of a standup guy he is and also what a badass he is. That standup guy is the same guy I met the one time I had the pleasure of climbing with him when I was in Yosemite... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Spaghetti aka Third Lost Wa... : Simiantics (5.11 V2)
By: jammer When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since putting this up, I have taken several strong offwidth climbers out to this. Scarpelli saw how it was done and he speculated that doing laps on this would get you ready for just about anything.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Mother 1 (5.7+)
By: jammer When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just wanted to say that, even with a good working knowledge of offwidths, even with all the technique you could ever want or need, even with a familiarity with the type of climbing represented at Vedauwoo, many climbs here are just plain sandbagged. That especially goes for the offwidths, though that is nothing unique to Vedauwoo. Many offwidths here have even been upgraded, and they are still sandbags. Might as well call them what they are.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Flight of The Owl (5.11+ V3)
By: jammer When: Jul 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After talking with a good number of people, I think this deserves an anchor. The available gear anchor is in an absolutely horrible place to toprope or even bring a second up on, so people agree that a set of bolts is warranted here. I have no access to a drill, or I would go add it myself.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : John's Tower : Married On Morphine (5.12- PG13)
By: jammer When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work, Pete!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Roof Ranch
By: jammer When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a Zach Orenczak line. It is bolts to the slot, then gear after that. I have no idea how hard it is because I have never been on it, though I believe it is in the 10 or 11 range. I watched Zach do the FA, and he said the crux was the bolted section at the bottom. Hope that helps.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : End of the Road Rock : Women's Work (5.10+)
By: jammer When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slim and Brian, sounds like you did the line the right way.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : End of the Road Rock : Women's Work (5.10+)
By: jammer When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where are you guys stemming? Sorry if my lackluster route description led you all astray. I changed it slightly, so hopefully it is fixed now.
The climb starts on top of the block in the corridor. Reach accross the gap, get a thin but bomber finger lock or two, then jam the crack to the top. If you are stemming anything but the 5.1 section to get on top of the block, you should feel dirty ;).
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : The Body Dump Area and surr...
By: jammer When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seth, sorry I can't be more help, but I don't really know the area all that well either. I can however tell you that to get to the rest of the problems you want to walk the fence away from the parking lot and past Lamerica (generally east) until it runs directly into a boulder, which is no more than a mile. The zig zag crack on this boulder is a classic Scarpelli problem called The Urinal. Also in the cluster of boulders around The Urinal you will find The Cavalrymen and Brown Sugar, as well ... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Call Me Barney (5.11c)
By: jammer When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe that option A is the original line, but I'm not totally certain on that. This always struck me as a sandbag that favored the tall and thus extra sandbagged if you don't have a huge wingspan. It might also just be a sandbag period. As a result that boulder problem at the bottom never justified the amount of work required to enjoy that brief splitter above, but maybe I am wrong about that. Good work Slim, I have never heard of anyone else wanting this one bad enough to go do it. Eve... more >>
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