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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : The Hernia (5.8)
By: James R. Arnold When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a very nice route and 5.8 seems like a reasonable grade. We did do the bolted face extension and it seemed harder than the 10a given in the guidebook. Especially when part of the best right handhold broke off. Perhaps it has gotten harder over time.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Insomnia (5.11b)
By: James R. Arnold When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend of a friend led Insomnia this last week. I did not get on it but I believe there are 1 or 2 fixed pieces in the crux section now.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Mystic Mile (5.10c)
By: James R. Arnold When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really nice route - probably the best quality route there. I found both pitches to be harder for a tall (6 ft 2") person. The tower roof was especially awkward. 5.10c seems like a reasonable grade for P1. The 2nd pitch is probably 9 for a shorter person and 10a for a taller person.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Lightspeed (5.11a)
By: James R. Arnold When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday with Joe Chorny. We both managed to lead it without incident. I'd have to agree with others that this route is not really 11a but mid 10. Perhaps new sport 11a which is really most of 1 grade lower.
The lower roof pullover is harder if you are tall. I found that cruxes of several routes at this crag were tougher if you were tall (Lightspeed, Mystic Mile (both pitches), Into the Mystic). So shorter folks make sure to give this crag a visit!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : South Pillar : Aerial Boundaries (5.12a/b)
By: James R. Arnold When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really nice route. The 4th clip over the lip is not that easy to make. Consider putting a draw on that bolt and perhaps a long sling - one can yard on the draw and then step in the sling to reach the jug hold above. Without the long sling you have to make a 10 slab move to reach the jug.
I really didn't feel much at all to grab onto above the lip to try the route free. I wonder if anything has broken off in the last 9 years?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : South Pillar : Black Rain (5.10b)
By: James R. Arnold When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route yesterday with Joe Chorny. The upper crux is between the 6th and 7th bolts and is a little spicy as you make the hardest move with the bolt 2-3 ft below your feet. It almost felt like it was bolted on lead. At least you are going for a good foot and hand to clip from. With a 70 m rope one can lower back to the start with a few feet to spare. The length was given as 130 ft but it must be closer to 115-120 ft.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Ledge One : Into the Mystic (5.10a)
By: James R. Arnold When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route and thought the rock was generally good though the route was a little dirty getting to ledge 2. Getting to the first bolt is not trivial and the mantle move is more difficult if you are tall. Very much worth doing. I'd give it more than 1 star and a rating of 9-10a.
Beware of loose rock. A party before us knocked down a rock the size of a basketball as the second came up to ledge 2- it surely would have killed someone if it had hit them.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: James R. Arnold When: Aug 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this with Joe Chorny on Thursday. Perfect weather without a cloud and absolutely no one there but us. I'm surprised this route doesn't get more traffic - it is very good.
The most valuable comment I want to make is on the descent. A new rap anchor has been put in that avoids all the issues with finding the bolted raps and having to downclimb the loose gully. From the notch at the top make a single rope rap down to a large ledge. On this ledge is a 3 pin anchor with cord and 2 biner... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: James R. Arnold When: Jul 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the Barb on July 4th with Joe Chorny. Perfect weather with no rain - it was even a little on the warm side (97 F in Denver). We had the route to ourselves as another later party traversed off after 3-4 pitches.
The description here made it pretty easy to follow the route but we did get off route a couple minor times. At the end of the 4th class Pitch 2 go pretty much straight up to start the 5.4 pitch. We got a little right and had to come back. Also there is quite a bit of drag wh... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9)
By: James R. Arnold When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday with Joe Chorny - it is a great route.
We both thought P1 was harder than 7 and more like 8 or so. Near the top of the P1 dihedral (after the easy 5.5 section) is a harder move that is best done by moving onto the face.
We had no trouble finding pitch 2 based on everyone's good beta (especially Monty's). I did indeed traverse around the arete to the right because it looked a little easier than going straight up the finger crack that is above the flake. The flake ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: James R. Arnold When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this last Thursday with Joe Chorny. Definately a 5 star route. We found some things differently than this site advised so giving comments below.
The pro on the first pitch is not sparse as there is plenty when it is needed (though the first piece may be a ways up). We found pitch 2 to be sustained - I don't think there was any move harder than 8 or 8+ on it but it just kept coming. The crack starting pitch 3 and the traverse is definately harder than pitch 2 (is 9 or 9+) but much ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7)
By: James R. Arnold When: Apr 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To add a few things to Marc's summary. The climbing was generally very clean face climbing at a 5.4-5.5 grade. Gear can be had every 15 ft or more. The last pitch (the steeper crack) felt about 5.7 despite the recent guide supposedly saying it is 5.6.
Once on top we did thrash up from bushes etc until we found the dead snag and could easily climb up to the base of the upper wall. From there descend to the saddle. In the saddle is a large pine tree and a cairn makes the start of the desce... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Turf Spreader (5.11b)
By: James R. Arnold When: Nov 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper part of this route sounds great! The 11b corner is probably a little much for us - how easy would it be to aid it?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: James R. Arnold When: Nov 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route a couple weeks ago with Joe Chorny. This route is awesome from bottom to top! Thanks to everyone here for all the beta.
On the issue of crowds on the route - plan on going during the week. We went on a Tuesday and we were the only ones on the route all day.
On pitch 1 near the top it is possible to step left around the arete and into an easier crack system. The alternative is to layback up and right at what seemed harder than 8. In general P1 and P3 felt hard for 8 and 8+... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Charisma (5.11a)
By: James R. Arnold When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route with Joe Chorny yesterday. There is still some loose rock on it but it wasn't that bad. Perhaps it has cleaned up some in the last couple years. The key down low is to use the arete on the right. It deserves a star. 11a sport is about right mostly continuous 10 moves.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : October Surprise (5.10b)
By: James R. Arnold When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb with Joe Chorny yesterday. On P1 the new bolts are nice to have but if they weren't there it would exciting 8+ or 9 over the roof's right hand side to the first gear placement. The rest of the pitch felt like 8 or 9 and not 10a. The white dike crux is protected well by 2 cams. The v slot move is cool and less exicting with a bolt at your waist.
I led P2 and thought is was more like 8+ or 9- and not 10 a or b. I should know since I don't lead 10b trad! This is nowhere near a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Cold Fusion (5.10c)
By: James R. Arnold When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really nice route - too bad it isn't longer!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Get Shorty (5.10a/b)
By: James R. Arnold When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for all the beta on the route. We did put a locker on the 4rd bolt, but neither my partner Joe Chorny or I found the 4th bolt clip particularly bad or the bolt to be in that bad a spot. Perhaps the key is to get the feet well established a little higher on better holds before making the clip. True, the hand holds are the smallest on the route there but not too bad.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: James R. Arnold When: Nov 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob
I don't recall which way the cam went in. Not a spot to hang around at very long. P2 and the others are much easier than P1 so give it a try if you at the top of P1.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: James R. Arnold When: Nov 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday with Joe Chorny. We both thought this route was great. Here are some comments for what they are worth.
Joe led the first pitch and placed a small nut in the right hand hold needed to pull your feet up into the dihedral. Placing this nut was a long reach, strenuous and required a few tries and some rests in between. The first pitch still has the fixed nut at the top of the crux dihedral. Joe also got a good nut below this and slung the jug horn.
I led the second pi... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Topographical Oceans (5.10b)
By: James R. Arnold When: Nov 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route a couple weeks ago with Joe Chorny. Weather was perfect. Route is great - a must do! Thought I'd pass along my thoughts on the climb.
On the first pitch I started to place the #2 Camalot under the lip but then realized could reach the first bolt so dropped the gear to the ground. I'm 6'2" tall, so perhaps if you're not that tall, gear would be the right move. Also, on the first pitch, there may be a small cam placement, but it is only 1 move below the 3rd bolt so not... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Back of the Nineties : Mission Vision (5.10 PG13)
By: James R. Arnold When: Sep 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Decent route but not as good as the other two. The crux bulge is a little loose in spots and my partner pulled off a hold. Turns out he was too far right and the route still goes ok starting a little left of the bolt there.
I rapped with my partner's 60 m rope to the ground from the anchor at the top of the cliff with 1 ft to spare. So you should be able to make it but to be sure check your middle mark.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Back of the Nineties : Priapos (5.10d)
By: James R. Arnold When: Sep 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty good route but it is a little unclear where it goes. Climbing straight between the bolts is probably what was intended but makes the climbing much harder. At one point I traversed left to better holds and back right to make the clip below the first big face hold. I contemplated going straight up but the last bolt would have been several feet below me and chickened out. My partner Joe climbed a little more left with better holds and had a much easier time of it.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Back of the Nineties : Aphrodite (5.10d)
By: James R. Arnold When: Sep 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe Chorny and I did all 3 routes today and this was the best one. It was quite sustained with good rock quality.
The bolting on the crag was seemingly done to make the routes sporty and it seemed like many of the harder moves were with bolts below you. Makes for more exciting routes but can't say this improves the quality any.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: James R. Arnold When: Jul 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Charlie,
Thanks very much for your new post on your Barb climb. I intend to do it about a week from now. Simul climbing the first 3 pitches sounds like a good idea. Do you recall how long pitches 5, 6, and 7 were? Also on the top two pitches do you think you were on the North Ridge route or something else? Also your descent sounds like it was off the backside?.
Thanks,
Jim
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