Contributed Comments |
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : Last Gasp (5.8) By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route deserves a PG13 designator. It would be possible to deck when going up to the last jug.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Face (5.7) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was overcast that day - so I never reached the full transition...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Mouse's Misery (5.10a R) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks guys.
Kayte - Appendix B has been created (which reminds me that I need to e-mail you Appendix A one of these days), the bottom is a bit spicy, but the crux is well protected. I started just to the left of the chunky wide crack, and used only the smaller diagnol crack systems on the face, it all felt pretty solid.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Ostentation (5.10) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What can brown do for you? :-)
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Ostentation (5.10) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: John, were you delivering packages before or after you went climbing this day?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Flake Route (5.10d PG13) By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work Kayte.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Mouse's Misery (5.10a R) By: James M Schroeder When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dmitriy-
Any chance you used the solution pockets on the right that are a part of Mouse Tracks, and not "on" for Mouse's Misery?
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : ... : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh man, that link is horrifying. Makes me never want to climb using fingerlocks again, ring or not.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Suburban (5.13a) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jay-
Do you have a fever?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have not heard of any new closures, and as such I would assume it continues to remain open.
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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower : Fine Nine (5.9+) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was pretty intense...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The older I get, and the more routes I see the more I love this route. I'd give it 100 stars if I could - if you only have time for one route at Devil's Lake this should be it.
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B : Backbone Ridge : West Side- Backbone Ridge : ... : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: John K lookin' DETERMINED - nice!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Dancing Madly Backwards (5.10b PG13) By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It did bite me!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Dancing Madly Backwards (5.10b PG13) By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is PG13 on TR if you take the bats living in the underclings under the roof into account...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "For the love of god - put in a piece..."
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Location: NH : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I remember this discussion from a few years ago -- seems like 2003 to me. I remember something about a girl, and "The Granite State" - Something about not becoming a sport-climber, and a further "James - it's called The Granite State."
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Step-Across (5.6 R) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jay, you've been away too long...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Flatus (5.11b) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, looks more like Black Rib to me, but awesome either way...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Step-Across (5.6 R) : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah those two bomber pieces within 4 feet definitely make it "R" rated - seems to me it's the start that is poorly protected.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Black Rib (5.11a) By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave-
As I've said before - this is not 5.10, it is F10, and there is a world of difference. As for it being 5.12 I think Jay's point is that typically Devils Lake routes are graded not by their hardest move (which in this case is almost certainly harder than 5.11a for anyone under 6 foot), but by the rough average of the difficulty of the climbing.
I'm also curious to know what you would rate Thouroughfare and ABM?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Cleo's Needle Southwest Dih... (5.6) By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's unnerving, but I don't think it's going anywhere...
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Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Quincy Bluff and Wetland Re... : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unfortunately this is the policy on all Nature Conservancy land I've ever seen.
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Location: WI : Photo By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hope you made him buy you a new rope!
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