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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c A0)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: strong work...you guys are hardcore...that's all I gotta say. I gotta do something with all those stacks of bongs I have at home. I don't climb in the Fishers much anymore....A Cam would definitely work, but I placed it the second time up as I didn't want to fiddle with it...all free, all together...wow! It;s gettin cold over here in Nepal...looking forward to sunny Wasatch/desert cragging.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c A0)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could give a rat's ass whatever you do with your time, unless you are busy destroying (i.e. chopping)...I am most certainly NOT going to buy Boissal or anyone else a beer to go climb some route...
I was just answering Eric's innocent question the most straight forward way I could. Actually, I have been known for buying a few rounds post climbing on many occasions.
Also, Cracked Egg DOES have some bolts next to cracks, but I would highly suggest you climb it all free not clipping any of the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Ibex : Wolfenstein Rock
By: James Garrett When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A trail, marked at the beginning by rock cairns has been constructed/made, hopeflly to decrease erosion and encourage people to take the same path to the foot of the crags. This remains a fragile environment. Thankyou for using and your help maintaining these various trails at the Ibex crags
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c A0)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo Fett,
Don't sweat it....it seems most of the hard core boys and girls in the self righteous Wasatch (at least the sprayers on MP) recently are still way all too worked up about a few bolts on other routes in LCC and BCC...maybe they don't want to actually climb Cracked Egg, just chop it, after all, a few fixed pieces do detract from the overall beauty of the route and it is so much fun struggling to get in a good piece in the wide flared section. Actually, I am quite sure it was climbed somet... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only time I carry "draws" that heavy is when I am leading A2 or harder. Trying really hard to simply follow Guideline #1.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior/Monte Cristo : The Cottonwood Traverse (5.6)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jim Dockery used to call this "The Ridge Run" and I know it was once quite popular...often done in winter. Franziska and I once joined two other friends and did it in January from the entire SE Ridge of Superior past Dromedary and over into the Salt Lake Valley with one bivouac enroute mid ridge. Another similar traverse is the 13 mile (it felt long!) complete traverse of Timp starting with the North Face of the North Peak out of AF and descending down into Provo Canyon.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall
By: James Garrett When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To Mike and Mark and all of the others who inevitably worked so hard to establish this much needed "easy" sport climbing area to the Wasatch, it is sad to hear this act of disgrace happened. I was looking forward to a visit up there myself....being the geezer I am. Obviously the destructive work of a vandalistic nature from a disturbed (individual) someone who has been disturbed for quite some time now...Again, sorry to hear this happened. It is like trying to resolve an act of terror...hard to ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Unnamed P2 5.7 (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Exactly what I was thinking....kind of scary.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two stars for a route you don't even like seems generous + a dozen times beaned, you're a lot more of a rock magnet than most, I suspect. Serious # of hits, glad you've survived.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I like the limestone in Rock Canyon better than the south facing quartzite. It got my heart pumping, though....I will say that for it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is with such glaring photos as these which deplete the star quantity rating!...DC is the epicenter of Wasatch Choss.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : The Recess
By: James Garrett When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not every place needs bolted anchors, they aren't accepted anywhere in the UK (that's why maybe they all come over to drill and clip!?), and though inconvenient, it is still an awesome place to climb. Bolted stations are not obligatory everywhere in Utah...try Minnesota, where they seem to have a no cleaning, no chaulk, no bolting, no leading tradition/ethic. You'll start thinking we are actually a progressive state in this ONE way and we have it pretty good!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Portable Darkness (5.9+ PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's all good Brian. Black Streak is really the only "better" rap route, both Shadow Of The Blade and Portable Darkness are excellent and strong recommends! Thanks again!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Portable Darkness (5.9+ PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loved the chimney pitch, then again the arete pitch up high was spectacular as well. Chopped our rope, but spared our heads on rappel as Black Streak was occupied and we didn't have our shoes along. Just another day on The Castle, I guess. I will be doing this climb again.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Shadow of the Blade (5.10d PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I might have to reaccess my favorite DC route. We forgot our MP topo, but no problems with orientation. The protection is not PG, it is excellent. Loved it!
We rappelled Black Streak. All pretty clean rockfall free pulls. 70m rope seems to be the best for all DC climbing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, you've done both of them?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Over Easy (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I stand corrected...thought you were referring to "The Big Easy".
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Over Easy (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stevo Habovstack. Is it really only 5.7? Man, you honed dudes are getting hard core!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : House of Cards (5.11) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if she was as rattled as we were? Maura is so hard core!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : House of Cards (5.11) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent Smoot topo, as expected from the Wasatch legend. Very useful.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : House of Cards (5.11) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Impressive changes with surely more to come!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : House of Cards (5.11)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed a TC route for 3 long pitches for the "approach pitches". They were very good and recommended. We neither found the Smoot/Watson start nor the piton from the topo. An appropriate name for the climb, House Of Cards is a scary place and the 3 of us were quite intimidated at the "Guillotine" belay. None of us thought it long for this world nor the next. The 4 star Pitch #6 is classic Smoot and spectacular. Feeling more like a survivor, a fine Wasatch adventure nevertheless.
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Location: UT : West Desert : Book of Saturday (5.11a R) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stu, Thanks for the excellent photos!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Speaks highly for the old Stardrvins out there! Didn't even spin, and still probably about 1 1/2" of bolt in the exfoliating granite. We left these cool pieces of history in place. Something to see.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : cTr (Choose To Rage) (5.10b)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Belay bolt...so much safer to belay from there completely protected from all the reported rock fall. Glad it is cleaning up. I like this route alot and don't feel it to be particularly loose?
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