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Member Since: Jan 19, 2003
Last Visit: Feb 23, 2009
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Point Rank: # 1,492
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Areas are worth 15
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James Garnett

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (78) | Routes (2) | Areas | Photos (13) | Comments (45) | Posts | Stars (15) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Trident

5.7

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

CO : Flatirons : ... : Third Pinnacle

Jul 20, 2003

Thin Crack

5.4

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

CO : Flatirons : ... : Third Pinnacle

Jun 14, 2003

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
Mt. Meeker south ridge

Mt. Meeker south ridge

James Garnett : Miscellanous

Jan 20, 2006

Orrie approaching the first belay, summer '03.  I posted this photo to show the position of the 1st and 2nd eyebolts, both of which have been present for many years (to clarify an argument on the climbingboulder mailing list).  If you climb to the second bolt and fail to clip it, you will take a ground fall if you slip.

Orrie approaching the first belay, summer '03. I posted this photo to show the position of the 1st and 2nd eyebolts, both of which have been present for many years (to clarify an argument on the clim

CO : Flatirons : ... : Direct Route (5.6 R)

Nov 27, 2003

Orrie pulling the crux (photo by Jason Hill)

Orrie pulling the crux (photo by Jason Hill)

CO : Flatirons : ... : South Face (5.4)

Sep 22, 2003

"Downclimb to the break" -- James at the rap station in the break, belaying Jason on the downclimb

"Downclimb to the break" -- James at the rap station in the break, belaying Jason on the downclimb

CO : Flatirons : ... : Shortcut (East Face) (5.4)

Sep 18, 2003

Start of the route

Start of the route

CO : Flatirons : ... : Zig Zag (5.7)

Aug 6, 2003

Bob making his way up the fantastic Quartz Crystal pitch

Bob making his way up the fantastic Quartz Crystal pitch

CO : Flatirons : ... : Fandango (5.5)

Aug 6, 2003

Toprope set up on Trident

Toprope set up on Trident

CO : Flatirons : ... : Trident (5.7)

Jul 20, 2003

Taken from the summit of the Royal Arch, 6/28/2003

Taken from the summit of the Royal Arch, 6/28/2003

CO : Flatirons : ... : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)

Jul 4, 2003

"RAPPEL 75 FT NORTH."  A very white man going off the summit.

"RAPPEL 75 FT NORTH." A very white man going off the summit.

CO : Flatirons : ... : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)

Jul 3, 2003

Nice view from the summit.  James after final belay.

Nice view from the summit. James after final belay.

CO : Flatirons : ... : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)

Jul 3, 2003

James leads off on the 2nd pitch.  Two pieces, 60'.  Don't mind the rope drag...

James leads off on the 2nd pitch. Two pieces, 60'. Don't mind the rope drag...

CO : Flatirons : ... : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)

Jul 3, 2003

Jason following the first pitch

Jason following the first pitch

CO : Flatirons : ... : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)

Jul 3, 2003

Jeff playing around unroped off the huecos at the base of the route.

Jeff playing around unroped off the huecos at the base of the route.

CO : Flatirons : ... : South Face (5.4)

Mar 18, 2003

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : McCurdy Park Tower
By: James Garnett When: Aug 11, 2005

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Comments: Went back here a week ago and had a few more thoughts about this area---first, definitely don't think too hard about Hubbel's topo. It's seriously confusing... and second, the granite here is *SHARP*. I considered climbing in my belay gloves in a few places. Finally, the reason all the rocks in this area is rounded is because it's a conglomerate of zillions of small granite pebbles that wear evenly and rapidly. Note that last statement: "rapidly." In some places the rottenness of the rock r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Fandango (5.5)
By: James Garnett When: Mar 27, 2005

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Comments: AC/64.12.117.12:....I don't think that you were on Fandango.....Second, the approach is not a "faint trail": rather, it's well maintained and VERY clear. If you were on granite and approaching from the east side ona faint trail, then you weren't on the first flatiron. Finally, even with a 50m rope, the 6th pitch is on the North Arete---VERY far from "crimpy."Although I'm not a free-soloist, even I drop the rope and simul-free-climb after reaching the arete.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : The Bomb (5.4)
By: James Garnett When: Mar 26, 2005

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Comments: No offense Danny, but.... ``May want to consider a helmet?!'' Good GOD---if you're within 100 yards of the Wind Tower without a helmet already on, then you're just asking to die a senseless, random death. This area is a shooting gallery, especially with the hordes of new climbers. Do you REALLY want to be around an area with a bagillion loose rocks and covered with inexperienced climbers w/o a helmet on? No, I didn't think you did.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Duh Dihedral (5.6)
By: James Garnett When: Mar 26, 2005

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Comments: Well, I did say the "crack", William. I suppose that it would be entirely possible to lead this route with RP's, but there are a couple of places where there are some committing moves without protection on the sides (i.e., only in the main crack). If you're okay with that, then go for it: it "is" vertical, so it's not like you're going to deck... but why fall 30' when you need only fall 10'? It's not like it's a ... alpine route---you can afford a few extra grams, if you're leading n... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: James Garnett When: Mar 16, 2005

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Comments: The crux on the second pitch is definitely easier for taller people. I lead this route with no difficulty (I'm 6'0"), but my partner on a recent trip (5'3") really struggled, and she leads at a higher grade than I do. As with any roof-ish crux, the key is getting your feet high, but to do that, you must stem wide, and I find myself doing pretty acrobatic splits at this crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag
By: James Garnett When: Jan 26, 2005

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Comments: What's wrong with the approach beta, AC? It's spot-on. This is a crag that is dear to our (shanahan-lovers') hearts, apparently, because the cairns that occasionally appear are quickly knocked down. Nevertheless, the beta is simple: from the gully between the south & north shanhan crag trails, walk west until you're at the crag: if it's not _totally_ obvious that you've arrived, then you haven't.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Queen Anne's Head : East Face/Queen Anne's Head (5.4)
By: James Garnett When: Aug 31, 2004

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Comments: I followed Rossiter's description for this one, and I wouldn't recommend that anyone else do the same. Make your second belay just *past* the notch. If you follow the pro from there, you'll never find the bolt or a good third belay (it's not south of the overhang). I stayed on the left side of the face, which was definitely fun, but also definitely 5.6 friction. The rappel is a truly amazing photo opportunity for those who go first, if you stop on the slab below instead of descending all the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: James Garnett When: Jul 25, 2004

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Comments: George- a couple of easier trade routes in Boulder canyon are the Pine Tree route (3rd Elephant Buttress) and the West Crack (Castle Rock). Both of these are also 5.5, but anyone at their limit on either would feel sandbagged by this one, imho.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Dandi-Line (5.7)
By: James Garnett When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: Come'on, guys, it's not that bad. This is a perfectly enjoyable climb for people breaking into eldo 5.7: it's soft at the grade, has totally bomber protection at the crux, and it's not crowded.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: James Garnett When: Jun 28, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Joe, yeah, I realized that I was reeling off Eldo routes, but I was a bit stumped when I posted for moderates that felt good for their grade. I suspect, and Leo Paik has suggested to me, that I'm in the minority on this one. That's fair. I think that George has hit the nail on the head, as it were, for a lot of my feelings: extreme popularity. In the summertime, it seems like there are as many people on the Direct Route as there are on the lawn at Chatauqua, many of them with little experie... more >>


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