Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Jam Left (5.9+)
By: James Beissel When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think there is an anchor for this route.
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Location: John Maurer : India Bouldering - Hampi/Ma... : Photo
By: James Beissel When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b) : Photo
By: James Beissel When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are standing on the rope so you can get a no hands rest????!!!???
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Horn's Mother (5.11a)
By: James Beissel When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't see how anything you can fit your whole hand inside could possibly be....
Nevermind.
5.11a.
I love this climb.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Beelzebub (5.7 X)
By: James Beissel When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is safe with double rope technique. Climb up the gully, place some pro and clip your right rope, climb down, get on the slab and gain the crack. Lead the rest of the pitch on your left rope.
If you want to make it spicy you can, but don't let that stop you from getting on this excellent route! (Oops, did I just let the cat out of the bag?)
The crack/didedral is excellent!!!
Above the dihedral I don't know where this route is supposed to go to be R rated, but if you just keep g... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Indistinction (5.8)
By: James Beissel When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went up to Cob the other day and discovered a new bolted anchor above this climb.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Tombstone : Tombstone (5.8)
By: James Beissel When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We had a mini-epic on this route when we discovered that we lacked enough big gear to complete it. I consider myself a reasonably solid offwidth climber but not neither of us were willing to entertain the idea of climbing this without a good cam nearby.
Thanks to the climber who helped get our rope up the backside so we could retrieve our gear!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Fields of Gold (5.10a)
By: James Beissel When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't rap the gully! What a mess. Did all of that crap come down after the bolts were installed?
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Location: Chris Beh : Crag Dogs : Photo
By: James Beissel When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My basset can tie a figure eight knot but I don't think he could make it up Bear Peak!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Gonzo (5.8)
By: James Beissel When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was fantastic.
The second pitch tops out on an awful pile of stacked choss. The pitch diagonals quite a bit so the belayer is out of harm's way, but being on Deviant or anywhere in that vicinity while someone is up there would be a bad idea.
For the average leader, I would suggest a single set of cams from thin fingers to hand size and doubles of #3 and #3.5 Camalots. Throw in a set of Stoppers and you should have no problems.
Please leave that poor tree alo... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozy Hang 10a Variation (5.10a)
By: James Beissel When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, not a double entry at all. This pitch takes a direct line out the roof above Owl Ledge.
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Location: Tom Hanson : Castlewood : Photo
By: James Beissel When: Oct 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is fabulous!
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Location: James Beissel : By Gully Assaut and MP Beer... : Photo
By: James Beissel When: Oct 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, I don't remember everyone's name, help me out!
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Location: James Beissel : By Gully Assaut and MP Beer... : Photo
By: James Beissel When: Oct 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clockwise from left:
Andy Laakmann, Site Landlord (back turned in dark red sweater)
Wendy Laakmann
Joby Spencer
Kateri Arendt
Lee Smith, rope dater
Tony Bubb (thinking hard)
Laurie
Shumin Wu
John Langston (the rancher)
Too Tall Tim Davis
Joshua Merriam (blue striped shirt)
Josh Thompson (peace)
Glen's back
Shawn Mitchell (thumbs up "I am not a crook")
The back of Nick Wilder's head (the other site landlord)
Center:
Malcolm Daly (orange shirt)
??? (from Brazil or China or ???)
Micah Isaac (Pata... more >>
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Location: j fassett : krispy cream : Photo
By: James Beissel When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got a good laugh out of this one!
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Location: D@n : Front Range : Photo
By: James Beissel When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that Thunderdome?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: James Beissel When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is my favorite climb at Lumpy to date. All three pitches are excellent. A single set of cams should be addequate as long as you take advantage of opportunities to place stoppers and utilize the fixed belay stations. A long piece of accessory cord and a hook will probably score you at least one peice of booty out of the bottom of the P3 chimney.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sugar Crack Buttress : Rubberneck Crack (5.10)
By: James Beissel When: May 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We initially thought this was Sugar Crack, but after a chat with Dan Hare I'm pretty sure it wasn't. The name comes from the five or six cars that were backed up behind a "rubbernecker" watching us as we climbed.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Lily and the Jack of Hearts (5.11-)
By: James Beissel When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Meh. Short, dirty, and lots of crumbly rock. If I were a scout leader, I would take the kids here every day for a summer and eventually all of the duff might get cleaned off. Or maybe not.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Island Rock : Cracks are for Kids (5.8)
By: James Beissel When: May 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Were this pitch not coated in munge, it might be something different, but it is and it sucks. This is the worst climb I've ever done.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island I : Unknown (5.8 PG13)
By: James Beissel When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To lead this you end up taking a rather unpleasant line in order to place protection. A more direct and much more enjoyable route can be taken with the safety of a top rope.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island I : Destroyer (5.10c)
By: James Beissel When: Apr 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe something broke - this felt a good deal harder than 10c. Awkward and probably harder for those with bigger fingers.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Indistinction (5.8)
By: James Beissel When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb, crappy descent.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Right Crack (5.7)
By: James Beissel When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climbing, crappy descent.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : First Buttress : Flash Dihedral (Rossiter Ve... (5.8+)
By: James Beissel When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to say the route described in Knapp's guide as Flash Dihedral is much better.
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