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Location: NH : Rumney : Hail Vader
By: James Otey When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this cliff on my way to Orange Crush last fall because I was too lazy to hike around. It was pretty filthy- must've been quite the effort to clean it.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Riviera (5.13d)
By: James Otey When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's been done a bunch of times.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : The Boogieman (and link-ups... (5.13c/d)
By: James Otey When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left hand crimp after the goldfish hold broke after the guidebook was published. It changed from a decent 3 finger edge to a heinous 2 finger edge.
This up's the difficulty to around 5.13c or d.
One of the best routes at the cliff!
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Location: NH : Rumney : Darth Vader : Spaceballs: The Rock Climb (5.12b/c)
By: James Otey When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Priceless
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Location: NH
By: James Otey When: Jan 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Join us this Saturday January 5th for the Grand Opening of Evolution Rock + Fitness, New Hampshire's newest climbing gym. We will be holding tons of promotional events, and expect a high energy day among community locals. For details check out www.evolutionrock.com. We'd love to see you there!
Part of the proceeds will be going directly to the RCA.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Barracuda (5.13d)
By: James Otey When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As an alternative to chucking off the left hand pinch all the way to the lip of the cliff, look up left to a quartz block a foot below the top. There is a sidepull crimp on the upper right of this block to use as a intermediate.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Riviera (5.13d)
By: James Otey When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You have to be good at prying elevator doors open for this one.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Rhythm X (5.13b/c) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No its no longer there, thank the lord.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Rhythm X (5.13b/c) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just noticed this in my picture- did someone put f*cking insulating spray foam in the crack to stop seepage? And I thought the velcro at Monsters was bad...
You can also see it in the upper left corner of this picture: mountainproject.com/images/28/30/106442830_large_d3cc54.jpg
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lonesome Dove (5.10a)
By: James Otey When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Repeated this last week, and I think it solidified it's place as my favorite 5.10 at Rumney
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Urban Surfer (5.13d) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was taken before I figured out slightly easier beta that prefaces the first picture. Before sinking the right heel in, move the right hand from the undercling to a one pad crimp just above the chalked spot in the top of the first picture. Less cramped and less strenuous to sink that heel-toe cam in.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Big Kahuna (5.13a)
By: James Otey When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The reason I do it the way I do is because I'm tall and the high foot is scrunchy for me. The other method is probably better if you're shorter.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Rhythm X (5.13b/c)
By: James Otey When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just tried this today for the first time.
It's basically a 15 move boulder problem with easy moves in the beginning, moderate moves in the end, and V8/9 meat. Strong lock off strength will help. Don't try this if you have an injury of your left shoulder. Start on two crimps, climbing up to gain the first and only jug on the route. Get a right hand pinch and move out left to set up for the "windmill" move to a small right hand crimp. Reset, move left, and basically do the exact same move again, ... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Barracuda (5.13d)
By: James Otey When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another fun but silly linkup would be Cold Sub (13c) which climbs Cold War to Suburban's anchor.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mesresha (project) (5.12+)
By: James Otey When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I applaud the effort of trying to establish new climbs at Rumney, this is an example of something that should have been left alone due to its proximity with neighboring climbs, and dangerous rock quality in a crowded area.
I also kindly ask that the bolts be removed.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things As They Are Now (5.12a)
By: James Otey When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting- I thought it was about a V4 deadpoint to a 5.10 top out
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Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : Parallel Universe (5.14a) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The newer method of belaying with a GriGri is far superior IMO. It seems silly to pinch the brake end of the rope with just my thumb and index finger when I can have all 4 fingers wrapped around the rope during fast slack payouts.
The old method can be done safely, but the thumb method is just plain better. More force on the break strand.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Cote d'Azure (5.13b)
By: James Otey When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This and Thin Man are the best routes I've climbed at Rumney
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Way off route (5.4 X)
By: James Otey When: Oct 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like the dream route of the Honey Badger:
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Suburban (5.13a) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Sep 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think she has tried it
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Photo
By: James Otey When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Neither is flying fish. or local motion. or mr gerbick. or open project. or catch the wave... others too!
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Urban Surfer (5.13d) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now I clip from this hold :)
Much easier without the match, as the left side of this crimp gets a lot better
The undercling clip is a bit too burly
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Urban Surfer (5.13d)
By: James Otey When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the quintessential "fitness route." Sure there are individual moves that are difficult, but it is certainly not a boulderer's route.
The true challenge isn't an individual move, rather, it it climbing from the bottom to the top. The route is so taxing physically because it engages such large muscle groups- and by that I mean the entire core. The "rest" positions are just as taxing the rest of the route, just on the core musculature instead of the forearms. When I tried it in July and Au... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Starship Enterprise : Yer Anus (5.9)
By: James Otey When: Aug 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did Yer Anus one time. It was a fun little experiment but I don't think I will try it again.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Aug 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1. Tim is more likely to be killed in a car accident that is someone else's fault than by soloing this route.
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