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Member Since: Mar 30, 2007
Last Visit: Oct 16, 2016
Contact James Otey

Point Rank: # 897
Total Points: 892
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 0
86 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has James Otey been climbing?


All 644 | Routes 30 | Areas 6 | Photos 78 | Page Improvements | Comments 112 | Posts 59 | Stars 221 | Ratings 138
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Contributed Comments


Location: NY : Little Falls : Moss Island : Tumbleweed (5.4)
By: James Otey When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: This is an ideal first trad lead because you can get good gear every couple feet, the foot holds are solid, and the topout is secure.

Great to hear it got bolted anchors. Hopefully that will reduce the vegetation damage that had been occurring over the years. Definitely a classic of the area!

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Big Kahuna (5.13a) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Doug totally nailed this picture- it shows the microsecond that the hold is stuck, with the hips still seemingly super far out from the dynamic nature of the move.

Look out for his work in the future. He's been featured on Petzl's social media pages, and is hungry to learn more...

Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Steel Curtain (5.12a)
By: James Otey When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: I did this route today, and saw where the hold broke.

I found alternative beta by using a gaston out left that is still within arms reach of the bolt.

Grade is definitely not any harder than 5.12a. Wicked fun!!!

Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)
By: James Otey When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Pitch 6 is down to one pin that is rusted out to the point where it's flexing. There is marginal protection before pulling the 10+ slab section in the form of a green alien. I didn't expect it to be load bearing, which my belayer confirmed after it pulled out upon moving past. About 30 ft into the pitch I slung a chockstone with dyneema (full width nylon was too wide) and ran it to the anchors from there. This was the spiciest pitch for me, and also had the worst rock quality. Making it the most... more >>

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Photo
By: James Otey When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Indeed, I am highly ashamed to have promoted such reckless and unethical fixed-gear practices when I uploaded this picture in 2011. Opponents have criticized the hammock, noting that it was likely too comfortable for the average sport climber (it was...), and agreed that fixing any more nylon products to the cliff would only exploit the inherent commercialism of the sport. I award myself zero points, and may god have mercy on my soul.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea
By: James Otey When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: It was quite delightful to enjoy the use of a fully serviceable Waimea ladder during the month of October, but regrettably, the ladder has vanished for yet another iteration of inconsiderate ethics imposition.

This, despite an official thumbs up vote from the RCA and an overwhelming majority opinion from the community at large. It's almost laughable at this point.

Let the core-shot makeshift etriers and traffic jams prevail I suppose.

And why has no one removed the access ladder from Orange ... more >>

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Localmotion (5.13a)
By: James Otey When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: This has been broken for the last few years, yeah?

Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : Difficulties be Damned (5.14a)
By: James Otey When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Yeah Jay!!!

Location: NH : *Rumney : Hail Vader
By: James Otey When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this cliff on my way to Orange Crush last fall because I was too lazy to hike around. It was pretty filthy- must've been quite the effort to clean it.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Riviera (5.13d)
By: James Otey When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: It's been done a bunch of times.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Monsters from the Id : The Boogieman (5.13c/d)
By: James Otey When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: The left hand crimp after the goldfish hold broke after the guidebook was published. It changed from a decent 3 finger edge to a heinous 2 finger edge.

This up's the difficulty to around 5.13c or d.

One of the best routes at the cliff!

Location: NH : *Rumney : Darth Vader : Spaceballs: The Rock Climb (5.12b/c)
By: James Otey When: Mar 5, 2013

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Comments: Priceless

Location: NH
By: James Otey When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: Join us this Saturday January 5th for the Grand Opening of Evolution Rock + Fitness, New Hampshire's newest climbing gym. We will be holding tons of promotional events, and expect a high energy day among community locals. For details check out We'd love to see you there!

Part of the proceeds will be going directly to the RCA.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Barracuda (5.13d)
By: James Otey When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: As an alternative to chucking off the left hand pinch all the way to the lip of the cliff, look up left to a quartz block a foot below the top. There is a sidepull crimp on the upper right of this block to use as a intermediate.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Riviera (5.13d)
By: James Otey When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: You have to be good at prying elevator doors open for this one.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Rhythm X (5.13b/c) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: No its no longer there, thank the lord.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Rhythm X (5.13b/c) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Just noticed this in my picture- did someone put f*cking insulating spray foam in the crack to stop seepage? And I thought the velcro at Monsters was bad...

You can also see it in the upper left corner of this picture:

Location: NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lonesome Dove (5.10a)
By: James Otey When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: Repeated this last week, and I think it solidified it's place as my favorite 5.10 at Rumney

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Urban Surfer (5.13d) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: This was taken before I figured out slightly easier beta that prefaces the first picture. Before sinking the right heel in, move the right hand from the undercling to a one pad crimp just above the chalked spot in the top of the first picture. Less cramped and less strenuous to sink that heel-toe cam in.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Big Kahuna (5.13a)
By: James Otey When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: The reason I do it the way I do is because I'm tall and the high foot is scrunchy for me. The other method is probably better if you're shorter.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Rhythm X (5.13b/c)
By: James Otey When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: Just tried this today for the first time.

It's basically a 15 move boulder problem with easy moves in the beginning, moderate moves in the end, and V8/9 meat. Strong lock off strength will help. Don't try this if you have an injury of your left shoulder. Start on two crimps, climbing up to gain the first and only jug on the route. Get a right hand pinch and move out left to set up for the "windmill" move to a small right hand crimp. Reset, move left, and basically do the exact same move again, ... more >>

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Barracuda (5.13d)
By: James Otey When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Another fun but silly linkup would be Cold Sub (13c) which climbs Cold War to Suburban's anchor.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things As They Are Now (5.12a)
By: James Otey When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Interesting- I thought it was about a V4 deadpoint to a 5.10 top out

Location: NH : *Rumney : Monsters from the Id : Parallel Universe (5.14a) : Photo
By: James Otey When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: The newer method of belaying with a GriGri is far superior IMO. It seems silly to pinch the brake end of the rope with just my thumb and index finger when I can have all 4 fingers wrapped around the rope during fast slack payouts.

The old method can be done safely, but the thumb method is just plain better. More force on the break strand.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Cote d'Azure (5.13b)
By: James Otey When: Nov 3, 2011

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Comments: This and Thin Man are the best routes I've climbed at Rumney

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