Comments: Indeed, I am highly ashamed to have promoted such reckless and unethical fixed-gear practices when I uploaded this picture in 2011. Opponents have criticized the hammock, noting that it was likely too comfortable for the average sport climber (it was...), and agreed that fixing any more nylon products to the cliff would only exploit the inherent commercialism of the sport. I award myself zero points, and may god have mercy on my soul.
Comments: It was quite delightful to enjoy the use of a fully serviceable Waimea ladder during the month of October, but regrettably, the ladder has vanished for yet another iteration of inconsiderate ethics imposition.
This, despite an official thumbs up vote from the RCA and an overwhelming majority opinion from the community at large. It's almost laughable at this point.
Let the core-shot makeshift etriers and traffic jams prevail I suppose.
And why has no one removed the access ladder from Orange ... more >>
Comments: Join us this Saturday January 5th for the Grand Opening of Evolution Rock + Fitness, New Hampshire's newest climbing gym. We will be holding tons of promotional events, and expect a high energy day among community locals. For details check out www.evolutionrock.com. We'd love to see you there!
Part of the proceeds will be going directly to the RCA.
Comments: As an alternative to chucking off the left hand pinch all the way to the lip of the cliff, look up left to a quartz block a foot below the top. There is a sidepull crimp on the upper right of this block to use as a intermediate.
Comments: This was taken before I figured out slightly easier beta that prefaces the first picture. Before sinking the right heel in, move the right hand from the undercling to a one pad crimp just above the chalked spot in the top of the first picture. Less cramped and less strenuous to sink that heel-toe cam in.
Comments: Just tried this today for the first time.
It's basically a 15 move boulder problem with easy moves in the beginning, moderate moves in the end, and V8/9 meat. Strong lock off strength will help. Don't try this if you have an injury of your left shoulder. Start on two crimps, climbing up to gain the first and only jug on the route. Get a right hand pinch and move out left to set up for the "windmill" move to a small right hand crimp. Reset, move left, and basically do the exact same move again, ... more >>
Comments: While I applaud the effort of trying to establish new climbs at Rumney, this is an example of something that should have been left alone due to its proximity with neighboring climbs, and dangerous rock quality in a crowded area.
Comments: The newer method of belaying with a GriGri is far superior IMO. It seems silly to pinch the brake end of the rope with just my thumb and index finger when I can have all 4 fingers wrapped around the rope during fast slack payouts.
The old method can be done safely, but the thumb method is just plain better. More force on the break strand.