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Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact James M Schroeder

James M Schroeder
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Point Rank: # 248
Total Points: 2,376
Last Year: 397
Last 30 Days: 71
77 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
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Contributions


All 2045 | Routes 67 | Areas 29 | Photos 179 | Page Improvements 16 | Comments 328 | Posts 818 | Stars 355 | Ratings 253
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Sewing Machine (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: I mean that it's not a good choice for a leader whose limit is leading 5.6. :-)


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Touch & Go (5.7 R)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Seems like one of those If the gear holds, then it's "R" - if it doesn't, then it's "X". situations. At a minimum it's on the scarier end of "R".


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : The Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"... (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Like most things that start with "The Funnel" this would be a good route if it did not. Aside from "The Funnel" and the sections of questionable rock, this is a fun route.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Sewing Machine (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: I wouldn't call it PG13 if you have Ball Nuts, but it's not a 5.6 for the 5.6 leader.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Moldy Buttress : Horticulture (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Horticulture is kind of heinous up high - suspect rock and questionable pro combine to make it interesting. Definitely not a lead for the 5.4 leader...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Touch & Go (5.7 R)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: I checked out the gear on this, and it's questionable at best.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Schizophrenia (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: The question at the crux becomes "Left of the slot, right of the slot or in the slot?"


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : North Side Lowlight Tour (p... (5.6 Easy Snow)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: A friend and I used this variation on 8/11/15 and I thought it would be good to contribute to show folks that the Grand can be climbed from on the North side from the Grandstand at a grade lighter than some of the other routes listed. It was a good outing.

The grades I give were based on the conditions we encountered, which were fairly snowy and icy - your mileage may vary.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds State Park (Luv... : Prairie Walls Area : 6. Midnight Buttress : Mean Streak (5.10a) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: Best photo I've seen for Blue Mounds.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Coatimundi Crack (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: This thing always feels hard for 5.6. Everytime I'm on it, I try to figure out a sequence that is both dignified and 5.6. I have thus far failed to find a sequence that would qualify as either - let alone both. Coatimundi is significantly harder than False Alarm Jam, its neighbor to the left, which is commonly called 5.7. Coatimundi feels about as hard as Grand Inquisitor, its neighbor to the right, which is also given 5.7 (although Coatimundi protects muc... more >>


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Spleef Peak : D-Man (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I updated the name and grade of this route based on information in the excellent guidebook to Jackson Falls by Yusuf Daneshyar. That book is available for purchase here.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Chimney (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Mandatory hand jam on a 5.4? It's easier than the mandatory jam(s) on Brinton's Crack but it's at least as hard as the climbing on Foreplay.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Porkchop Buttress : Jacob's Ladder (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Doug sums it up nicely.


Location: Burt Lindquist : I hold their ropes.... they... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: Makes sense, it looked unfamiliar...


Location: Burt Lindquist : I hold their ropes.... they... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Where is Gully Dwarf?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : The Grand Traverse (5.8 R) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Yep, my bad, fixed!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Brother Without a Brain (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Surprisingly enjoyable for a squeeze job.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Epiphany (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Once, as a young climber and before I knew the area (ca. 1998-99), I attempted this route thinking it was Charybdis - a (perhaps exceptionally) rude awakening ensued. I lowered off a single nut, and quickly retreated with my tail between my legs - to-date I've yet to return.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : ABM (5.11b)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know the history of this route's name? Or what the acronym is short for? I've always been curious.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Cannabis Sativa (5.8 R)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: I could totally see that - "X" might be closer to the mark than "R".


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Dances with FIBs (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Wandering, awkward, and sharp - there are many better routes at the park...many.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Split Decision (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: If this finishes in the hanging dihedral up top, then 5.7 is not even in the ballpark, for that matter 5.9 isn't even in the ballpark.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Rosemary's Baby (5.12b)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Height definitely helps on this one.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: I'm up for trying...the summer solstice is coming up soon.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure what the record is, but 28 would have to be close. I've been trying to goad a partner into 100 routes in 48 hours (a weekend), been told it's impossible - I don't agree. If 50 in a day is possible, 100 in 2 days ought to be in the realm...


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