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Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee outside of JTNP


Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact James M Schroeder

James M Schroeder
is a member of
Point Rank: # 206
Total Points: 2,783
Last Year: 556
Last 30 Days: 64
72 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2265 | Routes 87 | Areas 32 | Photos 203 | Page Improvements 18 | Comments 364 | Posts 843 | Stars 420 | Ratings 298
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : Gomar Falls (WI3) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: I love seeing bar napkin directions in the day of GPS map files.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Mr. Jimmy : Luscious Babes (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: Even the left start felt easier than 5.8, maybe it was a low-gravity day.


Location: WI : Wyalusing ice
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 28, 2015

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Comments: Pete,

I highly doubt it is in today, but another week of these temps and this weather, and stuff will probably be forming up. Governor Dodge wasn't in on the 20th, and up until today, it has been too warm since then to really do much.

Cheers,
James


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.9+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: Nick, you're not local anymore, your opinion doesn't count ;-)


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.9+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 18, 2015

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Comments: I've spoken with the first ascensionist of this route, and he's given permission for it to be retro-bolted. I'm posting here to get the local community's thoughts. I, and several others, think this would make an excellent 4-5 bolt (plus anchors) sport route. We think a few bolts will transform this neglected piece of stone into a modern classic.

If I get positive feedback here, I'll purchase and install glue-in Wave Bolts for both protection bolts and anchors. If instead... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Pablo, now you've just got to get out here and git on it.


Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Day Job (5.10 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: Sounds classic!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : I Don't Know, B (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: The first mantle on this is really fun.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Special K (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Fun! On par with The Tullamore Dew Arete from a difficulty standpoint, and definitely easier than Emily's Naptime.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : The Tullamore Dew Arete (V2)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Fun, easier than Emily's Naptime. The landing isn't awful, but I didn't want to fall with just one pad and no spotters.


Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Sawyer's Boulder : Sawyer's Mantle (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: This is a cool route and if the lip was four feet higher it would be much harder.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: Andy,

You asked for opinions, it's my opinion that those two holes are totally unnecessary. I'm all for bolting when it makes sense, but drilling holes for convenience alone on a 5.6 trad route with a forest at its top doesn't make sense to me.

Bolted anchors (whether protection, belay, rappel, or some combo) only make sense when there are limited natural protection options - that's not the case here.

Cheers,
James


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: Trees. {plural}

A much better candidate for anchors would be Pine Tree Crack which only has one tree at the top used as a fixed, single-point anchor. If any "convenience" anchors are going to be placed at the Hollow, the first ones should be on PTC.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: In my opinion, no, it would not be okay to add anchors. There are lots of trees at the top, and convenience isn't the end all in climbing.


Location: WI : Weidman Memorial Park : Northeast side of Narrows C... : Upper Guardrail Ridge : Mental Shelf (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 8, 2015

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Comments: I feel so hip right now.


Location: WI : Weidman Memorial Park : Northeast side of Narrows C... : Upper Guardrail Ridge : Mental Shelf (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: This thing is ripe for an SDS, which will add considerably to the difficulty.


Location: WI : Weidman Memorial Park : Northeast side of Narrows C... : Upper Guardrail Ridge : Helen (V2)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: This is the best route at Wiedman so far.



"That's nice, you look like a Helen."


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Gill's Buttress : Gill's Nose (5.11c) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: If I was that badass I wouldn't have to tell people anything - they'd know already! :-)


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Welcome Crack 2 (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: My estimation is that there are two cracks that could be "Welcome Crack 2" - or perhaps better still from left to right:

Welcome to the Lake - V4
Welcome Crack 1 - V0
Welcome Chimney - V-easy
Welcome Crack 2 - V0
Welcome Crack 3 - V0
Welcome Arete - V2

Although in the words Sangdahl, "Ultimately who gives a f*** anyway?"


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Agitator (5.11b/c X)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: Rad work Kris.


Location: IL : Mississippi Palisades
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Aside from Purgatorio are there any other established boulder problems here? If so, could someone who knows them post them? Thanks, James.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Phlogiston (5.12d R)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: "On a side note make sure to buy your belayer a beer cause they were in the moment with you up there!" ~Steve Sangdahl

Classy!


Location: Midwest : The Devils Lake top rope cl... : Post : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Man, I hope there isn't anything corrosive on that pavement.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Phlogiston (5.12d R)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Nice.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Many Pines Buttress : Black Rib (5.11a R)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Steve! Can you tell me how/where Black Fetus would go?


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