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Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact James M Schroeder

James M Schroeder
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Point Rank: # 249
Total Points: 2,301
Last Year: 368
Last 30 Days: 74
76 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1947 | Routes 64 | Areas 29 | Photos 175 | Page Improvements 13 | Comments 314 | Posts 786 | Stars 333 | Ratings 233
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : The Grand Traverse (5.8 R) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: 9 hours ago

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Comments: Yep, my bad, fixed!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Brother Without a Brain (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: 10 hours ago

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Comments: Surprisingly enjoyable for a squeeze job.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Epiphany (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Once, as a young climber and before I knew the area (ca. 1998-99), I attempted this route thinking it was Charybdis - a (perhaps exceptionally) rude awakening ensued. I lowered of a single nut, and quickly retreated with my tail between my legs - to-date I've yet to return.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : ABM (5.11b)
By: James M Schroeder When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Does anyone know the history of this route's name? Or what the acronym is short for? I've always been curious.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Cannabis Sativa (5.8 R)
By: James M Schroeder When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I could totally see that - "X" might be closer to the mark than "R".


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Dances with FIBs (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Wandering, awkward, and sharp - there are many better routes at the park...many.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Split Decision (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: 3 days ago

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Comments: If this finishes in the hanging dihedral up top, then 5.7 is not even in the ballpark, for that matter 5.9 isn't even in the ballpark.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Rosemary's Baby (5.12b)
By: James M Schroeder When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Height definitely helps on this one.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: I'm up for trying...the summer solstice is coming up soon.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure what the record is, but 28 would have to be close. I've been trying to goad a partner into 100 routes in 48 hours (a weekend), been told it's impossible - I don't agree. If 50 in a day is possible, 100 in 2 days ought to be in the realm...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Birch Tree Crack (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: This is definitely one of the best 5.8 leads in the park. Great gear available, with an easily-protected yet sharp and distinct crux that leads to fun splitter climbing above. An absolute must-do for the 5.8 leader at Devil's Lake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : White Wall : Aku Aku (5.7 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Yikes!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Axiom of Arete Aesthetics (V7)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Maybe should start adding "Q" grades to problems in SW Wisconsin based on how questionable they are.

For Example:
The Little Flatiron (V4 Q0)
AAA (V7 Q5)
Cannons (V6-V11 Q10)



Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : The Brig
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Climbed here last weekend for a bit - this place still needs traffic! The routes are good, don't let them sand over into obscurity. Bring your brush and do your part.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : The Brig : Schlickery When Wet (5.10a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: This is the easiest of the three bolted lines here.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Black Hearted Woman (5.10)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Fun, with a definite (and reachy) crux surrounded by easier climbing. Being fairly well-bolted this didn't live up to Mill Creek's sparsely-bolted reputation...its neighbor to the right Magic Carpet Ride more than makes up for it in that department though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: This place is great, we were there on Saturday and Sunday during the last week of Jeep Week, and we saw nary a soul.


Location: WI : M
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Looking much better!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Glad you enjoyed it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments:



Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Thoroughfare (5.11a) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: With the way that block he's yarding on with his left hand rattles, it's amazing it's still there. Did it rattle like that back then?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : ... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Is that a dreamcatcher?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Emily's Naptime (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: CCase,

You can use "both aretes" - so you can use the left side of the crack, but not the right. In other words, no jamming the crack or stemming across the crack to the right wall. As the discussion above indicates, it's pretty heavily sandbagged at V1.

Cheers,
James


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Trojan : Everyman's Endless Edge (5.9+ A1+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 23, 2015

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Comments: This looks pretty amazing, but I get the distinct feeling that I am being sandbagged.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : Last Gasp (5.8 R)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: After leading this thing again, it is probably "R" rated. My PG13 comments from 2009 were not aggressive enough.


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