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Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt


Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 28 mins ago
Contact James M Schroeder


Point Rank: # 279
Total Points: 1,935
Last Year: 429
Last 30 Days: 2
69 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
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Contributions


All 1607 | Routes 53 | Areas 29 | Photos 144 | Page Improvments | Comments 250 | Posts 681 | Stars 271 | Ratings 179
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Critical View : Dykes Next Door (5.11-)
By: James M Schroeder When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The new base makes the 5.11 crux right off the ground, but it's still an honest 5.11 move followed by easier climbing.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Critical View : Critical View (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The new "base" makes it just a move of 5.8 to get off the ground (pulling on the sloper), followed by easier climbing above.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Congratulations (5.10a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: I'd say Congrats deserves a split rating based on the humidity level. On a cool, crisp fall day this route feels easier than other 5.10a routes in the park. On a hot, humid, mid-summer day...well...it's just better for the ego to go somewhere else.

Either way, it's a stellar route, and worthy of every climbers attention. Whether you're a beginner trying to top rope your first 5.10, a bona fide hardman trying to do Astro Boy or anywhere in between; you will e... more >>


Location: rgold : Climbing Pictures : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: So cool to see this. Today that ear is a crucial hold on two routes that go by the names Full Stop and Big Deal. I'd love to hear some more history from the Lake back in those days.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Charybdis (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't want to on onsight this thing if 5.7 was my lead limit. It's heady, and the moves themselves feel a bit committing down low given the gear. I "retro-flashed" it yesterday after not having been on it in 5 years, and it definitely had my attention. So fun, and very alpine feeling up top.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B : Backbone Ridge : West Side- Backbone Ridge : crack (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: JJ, - I think you should christen it. If you weren't first; you were certainly closer to first than any of us...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B : Backbone Ridge : West Side- Backbone Ridge : crack (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: This needs a better name, Severed Ear Crack maybe? Picasso's Crack?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Emily's Naptime (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Maybe I am missing something, being too strict (nothing outside of the aretes), or maybe because it's a little tenuous/committing and I didn't have spotters, but it felt really hard - of course maybe I am just weak.

As for Oil Can being V0, I think that depends on how far you take Jameson before you bail into it. Emily's Naptime would qualify as feeling harder than any other V1 I've done anywhere. Maybe I am missing something.

Regardless, it's fun, and the feet are very "... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Emily's Naptime (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Maybe it was a high-gravity day, but this felt really hard. Oil Can was much easier.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: +1 Terry


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : The Brig
By: James M Schroeder When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Nick. These things are fun and would see more traffic if they were nearer to the rest of the rock, but really they're not that far and worth the 5 minute walk. They were pretty dirty today, which added some spice. We did what we could to clean them all up, but a little traffic would keep these things in pristine condition. Check them out the next time you're at Necedah.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart : Plethora (5.10d)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: The upper crux is cryptic, tenuous and a bit dynamic. The moves might not require a ton of "grrrrr" factor, but they are not obvious and require a fair amount of finesse. I can think of 11b's (Seven Seas and Coup de'Tat) in the park I think are easier, and 11a's (Beginner's Demise and Black Rib) I think are harder. I think Devil's Lake 5.10d might be fair, in the same way Birch Tree is Devil's Lake 5.8 - if you are on a top rope and know the key beta beforehand it climbs the grade, but if you ar... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Face (5.7) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Nothing says bomber like 00 TCU placed in a shallow horizontal...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Michael's Project (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Eric,

Michael's with perfect beta is no harder than Peter's with perfect beta (in fact it might even be easier). However, Michael's with imperfect beta, well, let's just say it isn't that much fun and feels like a grovel. Go back to it a few more times and when you have it dialed it will feel easier than Peter's.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : King's Throne (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I agree, thin TCUs in horizontal pods, a little sketchy to lead, but fun - I think it is barely PG13.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart : AAA (5.12a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Alex A:

"OK,
Ice, Rubberman, Shaking Hands With The Chimp, The Zipper, Dyslexia, Zschiesche Roof, Modern Art, and Steaksauce, Assume the Position, AAA, Between the cheeks, Phlogiston, Mental Block, and a few odd ball 5.3's 5.4's"

Now that's impressive.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Warm Up 1 (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Rhoads on this thing's runout between bolts 3 & 4. Not a great route to push your grade on. Solid 5.10a leaders should feel comfortable, but the new 5.9 leader will be gripped between 3 & 4.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : A Red Recollection (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: Rad! So glad I saved this!

Edit to add:

Gear:
You will pass seven bolts, and the first set of anchors on your way to the upper anchor. So you'll need seven quickdraws (assuming you don't drop one), a shoulder length sling (if you're going to clip the first set of anchors for pro) and whatever you want for the upper anchor.

There were biners to lower from on the upper chains, but they are starting to get a pretty good groove in them, and the quick links that attach the chains are looking a lit... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Warm Up 2 (5.10-)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: A hold (or more specifically a lack of hold) must have broke on this over the winter creating a good hold in the former crux. This thing is now easier than its twin to the right and it is definitely the less run-out feeling of the two as well. Fun, get on it.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Unzipped(aka The Zipper Dir... (5.13 V8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Cool


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : The Wind Rider (V5)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Looks pretty cool Remo, nice work.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: That's a good week!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: So Doug, would it count as one or two pitches for the Century Challenge?

:-)


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: It seems like doing this in one pitch would create more rope-drag hassle than setting up a belay in the middle.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: The "stats" on this need to be updated to reflect that it's a two-pitch route.


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