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Coffee outside of JTNP


Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact James M Schroeder


Point Rank: # 250
Total Points: 2,266
Last Year: 339
Last 30 Days: 50
76 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1905 | Routes 62 | Areas 29 | Photos 174 | Page Improvements 13 | Comments 302 | Posts 775 | Stars 324 | Ratings 226
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Axiom of Arete Aesthetics (V7)
By: James M Schroeder When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Maybe should start adding "Q" grades to problems in SW Wisconsin based on how questionable they are.

For Example:
The Little Flatiron (V4 Q0)
AAA (V7 Q5)
Cannons (V6-V11 Q10)



Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : The Brig
By: James M Schroeder When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Climbed here last weekend for a bit - this place still needs traffic! The routes are good, don't let them sand over into obscurity. Bring your brush and do your part.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : The Brig : Schlickery When Wet (5.10a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: This is the easiest of the three bolted lines here.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Black Hearted Woman (5.10)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Fun, with a definite (and reachy) crux surrounded by easier climbing. Being fairly well-bolted this didn't live up to Mill Creek's sparsely-bolted reputation...its neighbor to the right Magic Carpet Ride more than makes up for it in that department though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: This place is great, we were there on Saturday and Sunday during the last week of Jeep Week, and we saw nary a soul.


Location: WI : M
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Looking much better!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Glad you enjoyed it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments:



Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Thoroughfare (5.11a) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: With the way that block he's yarding on with his left hand rattles, it's amazing it's still there. Did it rattle like that back then?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : ... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Is that a dreamcatcher?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Emily's Naptime (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: CCase,

You can use "both aretes" - so you can use the left side of the crack, but not the right. In other words, no jamming the crack or stemming across the crack to the right wall. As the discussion above indicates, it's pretty heavily sandbagged at V1.

Cheers,
James


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Trojan : Everyman's Endless Edge (5.9+ A1+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 23, 2015

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Comments: This looks pretty amazing, but I get the distinct feeling that I am being sandbagged.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : Last Gasp (5.8 R)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: After leading this thing again, it is probably "R" rated. My PG13 comments from 2009 were not aggressive enough.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Red Pulpit (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: The crux is getting off the ground, from there the difficulty eases significantly. As noted previously, the gear is a bit suspect until standing on the pulpit.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Jolly Roger (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Decent climbing in a cool position, with tricky, but sufficient pro.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Four Brothers : Family Jewels (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Maybe I was trying to stay too low, but traversing in from the left felt harder than 5.7 (and scary on lead!), but coming from the right on Gravel Pit felt honest at the grade, and was enjoyable.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress : Slut For Punishment (5.12a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 6, 2015

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Comments: +1 Eggs


Location: WI : Wyalusing ice : Wyalusing State Park : Big Sand Cave Falls (WI2+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: Dang! I knew you were going to find these this weekend. Nice work.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: I guess we're going to need to break down and spray paint some starting zones on the boulder! Should we go with a variety of colors, or different shades of the same? You know, sort of a spectrum of awesomeness...

(I feel obligated to note that I am being massively sarcastic, and would be appalled if this actually happened - god forbid if someone read this comment, thought is was a good idea and actually executed it.)


Location: Adam Burch : Profile Pic : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: You could have made this look way more professional with Excel, thereby taking yourself more seriously and hence exponentially increasing your happiness. Just saying.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Cox Hollow : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: Looks fat!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: To be clear, I am not saying it should be up to the community to decide. I am saying that it should be up to the individual. If someone wants to climb a V8+, he or she can start with "wide hands" and if that person wants to climb a V11 he or she can start with matched hands. The information about the alternate starts exists already, and, as such people are (and should be) free to start wherever they please.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: I know there is no genuine animosity among you guys, I'm just trying to keep the conversation humorous.

I don't think it is up to the three of you anymore - the decision about which line is better, or more aesthetic, or should be publicly displayed isn't for the three of you to make at this point. The versions have been done, and the information has been put to the public at large, it's out there now, and you can't (not even the three of you can) put the genie back in the bottle.

You guys are ... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: In all seriousness...how does that set a bad precedent? There are two established starts to the "full" problem, and they are of significantly different difficulty. There's no need to censor that information, let the community know that they've both been done and by whom, and then let the individual decide which version (is that more palatable than "variation"?) to do for his or her self. We don't need the competing first ascensionists or the community to set rules on which version people can and... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Eggs,

I think we should push for the three-way Mike-Peter-Ian cage match to determine the hardest hard-man in the south-central Wisco/northeast Iowa bouldering corridor. You and I could produce the thing, think of the revenue possibilities! Ticket sales, pay-per view, YouTube ads on reruns, t-shirts, action figures, etc. - my gawd we'd be rich!


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