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Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt


Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact James M Schroeder


Point Rank: # 279
Total Points: 1,963
Last Year: 454
Last 30 Days: 27
71 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1637 | Routes 53 | Areas 29 | Photos 148 | Page Improvements | Comments 257 | Posts 688 | Stars 277 | Ratings 185
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: Josh,

I don't think a Hillbilly kegger is a good idea - way too high-profile of an event at a place that should be low-profile.

I'm also not sure the place needs convenience anchors at the top of every single line. The sport routes makes sense to me, and those that overlap with sport routes.

I do like some of the ideas for new lines though.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: I'd be happy to lend my drill to a "Hillbilly Hollow Retro/Re-Bolt Session" - I think while the leaves are still up is good, because they will drown out the noise and we don't need to call any unnecessary attention to ourselves.

My five-minute brainstorm of potential projects:
  • Finish Swiss Cheese/Generation Gap Anchor Improvement (Just needs new chains and quick-links, and the old bolt pulled and patched)
  • Add an anchor to and Retro Turkish Revenge
  • Add an anchor to and Retro Booze Pigs
  • Repla...
 more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I wish that was the case Paul, but I wimped out and took a hang on Track Cracks earlier in that same day.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Ha! I figured I'd have to defend the 1 star - I almost gave it a bomb.

10 feet of 5.4 + 20 feet of 4th class + 20 feet of 5.6 offwidth + 30 feet of chunky 5.2 < 4 stars -- at least in my opinion.

Some people might consider this route worth the bushwhacking adventure required to find it, but I do not. There are several better 5.6 routes in the park with better approaches, better and more consistent climbing, as well as better position and aesthetics. I'd much rather climb [[105... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: I'm with Mike, a #4 Camalot is nice. It's definitely 5.6, but it's a grovel (arm-barring in a dihedral) to make it 5.6. The route is long, but the actual climbing isn't. Lost Face, Brinton's, Full-Stop and Berkeley are all more fun at the grade and have more actual climbing. That said, if you've done those, you should probably make the hike to this thing.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Blinded by Lust (5.11+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Not to kick the hornet's nest too hard here, but I want to make folks aware of an issue with this route. I was up top and saw the chains for this route, they looked like they were in a potentially loose piece of stone. I went over to bang on the flake they're in, and it sounded hollow to me - I'm not sure if this is a recent development or not. Anyway, if you're thinking about jumping on this thing, you might want to check out the chains situation before you commit to them.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : Swiss Cheese (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: I'm in the process of updating/replacing the anchors on Swiss Cheese. They were beginning to look pretty manky and I'm pretty sure those chains were there in '98 or '99 when I first climbed here. I left them in usable condition when I left Saturday, but I want to yank the old bolt, patch the hole, update the chains/hardware and camouflage the the whole setup. It's a work in progress - so at least wait until it's done to flame me for it.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Bowling Alley- aka Durrance... (5.5 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: This didn't feel remotely PG13 to me...


Location: Midwest : New trail markers at Devil'... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: I have noticed those too, only I did not see the numbers. I am guessing they are to help locate lost hikers, or waypoints for some sort of race.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Critical View : Dykes Next Door (5.11-)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: The new base makes the 5.11 crux right off the ground, but it's still an honest 5.11 move followed by easier climbing.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Critical View : Critical View (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: The new "base" makes it just a move of 5.8 to get off the ground (pulling on the sloper), followed by easier climbing above.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Congratulations (5.10a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: I'd say Congrats deserves a split rating based on the humidity level. On a cool, crisp fall day this route feels easier than other 5.10a routes in the park. On a hot, humid, mid-summer day...well...it's just better for the ego to go somewhere else.

Either way, it's a stellar route, and worthy of every climbers attention. Whether you're a beginner trying to top rope your first 5.10, a bona fide hardman trying to do Astro Boy or anywhere in between; you will e... more >>


Location: rgold : Climbing Pictures : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: So cool to see this. Today that ear is a crucial hold on two routes that go by the names Full Stop and Big Deal. I'd love to hear some more history from the Lake back in those days.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Charybdis (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't want to on onsight this thing if 5.7 was my lead limit. It's heady, and the moves themselves feel a bit committing down low given the gear. I "retro-flashed" it yesterday after not having been on it in 5 years, and it definitely had my attention. So fun, and very alpine feeling up top.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B : Backbone Ridge : West Side- Backbone Ridge : One Hand Clapping (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: JJ, - I think you should christen it. If you weren't first; you were certainly closer to first than any of us...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B : Backbone Ridge : West Side- Backbone Ridge : One Hand Clapping (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: This needs a better name, Severed Ear Crack maybe? Picasso's Crack?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Emily's Naptime (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Maybe I am missing something, being too strict (nothing outside of the aretes), or maybe because it's a little tenuous/committing and I didn't have spotters, but it felt really hard - of course maybe I am just weak.

As for Oil Can being V0, I think that depends on how far you take Jameson before you bail into it. Emily's Naptime would qualify as feeling harder than any other V1 I've done anywhere. Maybe I am missing something.

Regardless, it's fun, and the feet are very "... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Emily's Naptime (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Maybe it was a high-gravity day, but this felt really hard. Oil Can was much easier.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: +1 Terry


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : The Brig
By: James M Schroeder When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Nick. These things are fun and would see more traffic if they were nearer to the rest of the rock, but really they're not that far and worth the 5 minute walk. They were pretty dirty today, which added some spice. We did what we could to clean them all up, but a little traffic would keep these things in pristine condition. Check them out the next time you're at Necedah.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart : Plethora (5.10d)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: The upper crux is cryptic, tenuous and a bit dynamic. The moves might not require a ton of "grrrrr" factor, but they are not obvious and require a fair amount of finesse. I can think of 11b's (Seven Seas and Coup de'Tat) in the park I think are easier, and 11a's (Beginner's Demise and Black Rib) I think are harder. I think Devil's Lake 5.10d might be fair, in the same way Birch Tree is Devil's Lake 5.8 - if you are on a top rope and know the key beta beforehand it climbs the grade, but if you ar... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Face (5.7) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Nothing says bomber like 00 TCU placed in a shallow horizontal...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Michael's Project (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Eric,

Michael's with perfect beta is no harder than Peter's with perfect beta (in fact it might even be easier). However, Michael's with imperfect beta, well, let's just say it isn't that much fun and feels like a grovel. Go back to it a few more times and when you have it dialed it will feel easier than Peter's.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : King's Throne (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I agree, thin TCUs in horizontal pods, a little sketchy to lead, but fun - I think it is barely PG13.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart : AAA (5.12a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Alex A:

"OK,
Ice, Rubberman, Shaking Hands With The Chimp, The Zipper, Dyslexia, Zschiesche Roof, Modern Art, and Steaksauce, Assume the Position, AAA, Between the cheeks, Phlogiston, Mental Block, and a few odd ball 5.3's 5.4's"

Now that's impressive.


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