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Rock Climbing Photo: SNL


Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact James M Schroeder

James M Schroeder
is a member of
Point Rank: # 192
Total Points: 2,973
Last Year: 679
Last 30 Days: 93
74 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2332 | Routes 91 | Areas 32 | Photos 231 | Page Improvements 18 | Comments 374 | Posts 860 | Stars 426 | Ratings 300
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Unclaimed (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Personally, I find the climbing in the upper-runout to be engaging and rewarding. Because it can be easily protected, the lower-runout is a non-issue in my mind. I don't think the runouts are exceedingly dangerous, and even if they were, that wouldn't necessarily be a justification to retro-bolt this route. The route has been done dozens of times this way, and existed for many years in its current state - this ought to be plenty of reason to leave this route in its current state.

More generally... more >>


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Unclaimed (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I totally disagree. There is no reason to add more bolts to this route. A well-placed C4 can protect the bottom runout and the upper runout, while spicy, is not in ground-fall territory (and it's also much easier than the climbing it takes to get there). Not everything needs to be accessible to people on their first day out of the gym.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Lower Diagonal (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: An awkward, but interesting start exists in the "v-slot" at the bottom right of this photo:

Rock Climbing Photo: J. Hall working Lower Diagonal.
J. Hall working Lower Diagonal.



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above ... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Are you wearing hiking boots?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Mezzanine Arete (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Terry.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Mezzanine Credit (V2-3)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: I imagined I wasn't the first, thanks for the update Terry.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Ted,

They're pretty close, but for the most part you will feel like you will stop at the top of the prior pitch if you fell from the current pitch. I'd say there is a walk of 10'-30' between each pitch. If you want the tour, PM me, I'll show you around.

Cheers,
James


Location: Sweet Profile Pics : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Dan,

Yep it's at the Lake. It's called Anarchist Crack.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Mezzanine Credit (V2-3)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: When I did this, I used the sharp crimps in the higher rail, just at my 6'3" reach. An assortment of lower crimps would aid ascensionists of a more normal stature and maybe add a slight degree of difficulty.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Balanced Rock (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Jairo,

Thanks for the heads up, it's fixed now. Not much beta to give. Kind of a campus to a mantle. More trying to capture the spirit of the thing than anything. Just don't botch it. A couple bad steps the wrong way and you'll find yourself taking the express to the bottom of Balanced Rock Wall.

Cheers,
James


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Bouldering : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Rad. Thanks for this Kyle. I'm psyched to get up there and check it out.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: Ryan,

I think there are two major practical reasons (and probably a litany of minor reasons practical and otherwise) outside of the ethical debate.

1. Bolting in the park is illegal, and I think most folks who own drills take the responsibility "To not make waves with the powers that be and thereby jeopardize greater access within the park/state." seriously.

2. Quartzite is incredibly hard stone to drill. So, it would probably necessitate a not so low-key power drill.

This is a situation whe... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Orient Bay (Ice) : Gomar Falls (WI3) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: I love seeing bar napkin directions in the day of GPS map files.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Mr. Jimmy : Luscious Babes (5.7+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: Even the left start felt easier than 5.8, maybe it was a low-gravity day.


Location: WI : Wyalusing ice
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 28, 2015

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Comments: Pete,

I highly doubt it is in today, but another week of these temps and this weather, and stuff will probably be forming up. Governor Dodge wasn't in on the 20th, and up until today, it has been too warm since then to really do much.

Cheers,
James


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.9+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: Nick, you're not local anymore, your opinion doesn't count ;-)


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.9+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 18, 2015

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Comments: I've spoken with the first ascensionist of this route, and he's given permission for it to be retro-bolted. I'm posting here to get the local community's thoughts. I, and several others, think this would make an excellent 4-5 bolt (plus anchors) sport route. We think a few bolts will transform this neglected piece of stone into a modern classic.

If I get positive feedback here, I'll purchase and install glue-in Wave Bolts for both protection bolts and anchors. If instead... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Pablo, now you've just got to get out here and git on it.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : I Don't Know, B (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: The first mantle on this is really fun.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Special K (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Fun! On par with The Tullamore Dew Arete from a difficulty standpoint, and definitely easier than Emily's Naptime.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : The Tullamore Dew Arete (V2)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Fun, easier than Emily's Naptime. The landing isn't awful, but I didn't want to fall with just one pad and no spotters.


Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Sawyer's Boulder : Sawyer's Mantle (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: This is a cool route and if the lip was four feet higher it would be much harder.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: Andy,

You asked for opinions, it's my opinion that those two holes are totally unnecessary. I'm all for bolting when it makes sense, but drilling holes for convenience alone on a 5.6 trad route with a forest at its top doesn't make sense to me.

Bolted anchors (whether protection, belay, rappel, or some combo) only make sense when there are limited natural protection options - that's not the case here.

Cheers,
James


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: Trees. {plural}

A much better candidate for anchors would be Pine Tree Crack which only has one tree at the top used as a fixed, single-point anchor. If any "convenience" anchors are going to be placed at the Hollow, the first ones should be on PTC.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: In my opinion, no, it would not be okay to add anchors. There are lots of trees at the top, and convenience isn't the end all in climbing.


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