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Rock Climbing Photo: Thoroughfare


Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact James M Schroeder

James M Schroeder
is a member of
Point Rank: # 187
Total Points: 3,135
Last Year: 731
Last 30 Days: 7
82 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
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Contributions


All 2500 | Routes 100 | Areas 33 | Photos 240 | Page Improvements 18 | Comments 386 | Posts 923 | Stars 469 | Ratings 331
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Lower Diagonal (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: Ha!

Joel,

They can't all be four stars, and compared to adjacent routes, this is the last 5.8 I'd climb.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Prospect Point Pinnacle : Creamy Caesar (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: This would make a great final to pitch to a wintry ascent of Great Ridge. Felt very alpine-esque.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.3 - Horse Rampart : Plethora (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: I move that the description of this route is the first MP description fully-plagiarized from Jay's new guidebook.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: I think the shift from thuggish offwidthing and weird pedestal humping, to steep face climbing throws people for a loop. I think the thing protects well (sling the block!), but the move off the pedestal is disconcerting for sure.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Indigo Billy (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: See here - What qualifies as a route?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Stained (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Lots of hollow rock on this thing, and several of the bolts are in what I'd call questionable rock. Have your head on tight for this one if it's at your limit.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Double Elephant (V4)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: Jeez.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Just Another Sick Old New R... (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 20, 2016

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Comments:
Chris treggE wrote:
The excellent first pitch of The Haunting.


Ha! It's not even a warmup for the warmup for the warmup for The Haunting.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Just Another Sick Old New R... (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Beta vid:




Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Just Another Sick Old New R... (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Beta vid:




Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Hard to tell which is the "hidden hold" that separates BPL from BPR. I'm sure somebody, somewhere, knows and cares.


Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : A. Red Bird Statue Area : White Swan Drive (V1-2)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 17, 2016

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Comments: Andy, any chance you can post a photo?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Tombstone Direct (V5)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: I think this is often confused with Tombstone Classic which goes up to the good edges just left of the crack and was first climbed by Gill in the 50's or 60's.

Tombstone Direct goes up and left, avoiding the good edges to the right and the hand crack to the left. The direct is a typical DL eliminate deal, you know, do the first third of a classic, then do two contrived moves to avoid the easy part and then rejoin the classic. I think EZ did the direct first, but I'm not 100% sure ... more >>


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Unclaimed (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Personally, I find the climbing in the upper-runout to be engaging and rewarding. Because it can be easily protected, the lower-runout is a non-issue in my mind. I don't think the runouts are exceedingly dangerous, and even if they were, that wouldn't necessarily be a justification to retro-bolt this route. The route has been done dozens of times this way, and existed for many years in its current state - this ought to be plenty of reason to leave this route in its current state.

More generally... more >>


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Unclaimed (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: I totally disagree. There is no reason to add more bolts to this route. A well-placed C4 can protect the bottom runout and the upper runout, while spicy, is not in ground-fall territory (and it's also much easier than the climbing it takes to get there). Not everything needs to be accessible to people on their first day out of the gym.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Lower Diagonal (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: An awkward, but interesting start exists in the "v-slot" at the bottom right of this photo:

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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above ... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Are you wearing hiking boots?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Mezzanine Arete (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Terry.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Mezzanine Credit (V2-3)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: I imagined I wasn't the first, thanks for the update Terry.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Ted,

They're pretty close, but for the most part you will feel like you will stop at the top of the prior pitch if you fell from the current pitch. I'd say there is a walk of 10'-30' between each pitch. If you want the tour, PM me, I'll show you around.

Cheers,
James


Location: Sweet Profile Pics : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Dan,

Yep it's at the Lake. It's called Anarchist Crack.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Mezzanine Credit (V2-3)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: When I did this, I used the sharp crimps in the higher rail, just at my 6'3" reach. An assortment of lower crimps would aid ascensionists of a more normal stature and maybe add a slight degree of difficulty.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Balanced Rock (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Jairo,

Thanks for the heads up, it's fixed now. Not much beta to give. Kind of a campus to a mantle. More trying to capture the spirit of the thing than anything. Just don't botch it. A couple bad steps the wrong way and you'll find yourself taking the express to the bottom of Balanced Rock Wall.

Cheers,
James


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Bouldering : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Rad. Thanks for this Kyle. I'm psyched to get up there and check it out.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: Ryan,

I think there are two major practical reasons (and probably a litany of minor reasons practical and otherwise) outside of the ethical debate.

1. Bolting in the park is illegal, and I think most folks who own drills take the responsibility "To not make waves with the powers that be and thereby jeopardize greater access within the park/state." seriously.

2. Quartzite is incredibly hard stone to drill. So, it would probably necessitate a not so low-key power drill.

This is a situation whe... more >>


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