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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Zach,
With all due respect I'd pick a different line for your first trad lead. And inevitably someone will bitch about the sling, but Eggert is right, just leave it if you want.
Cheers,
James
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Totally and completely bombproof. (sarcasm) Perhaps a covert Hilti mission is called for...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Face (5.7) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Natural Light is the 21st century version of Kingsbury...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Queen's Throne (5.4) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If one really wanted to be a stickler for detail. Technically speaking the cinching hitch doesn't actually weaken the sling any more than a regular girth hitch - it does however increase the force on the "pulley" end of the sling. In a frictionless world it would create a 2-1 pulley system thereby making the effective strength of the sling half it's "normal" girth-hitched strength.
Is that a sufficient explanation Andy? ;-)
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Queen's Throne (5.4) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The reason this is "cinching" girth hitch sketchier than a standard girth hitch is because of the force multiplication created by "hard" bend in sling acting like a pulley. Whereas a less aggressive cinching in action would create less force multiplication.
In some situations the loss of strength is worth the stability. This doesn't look like one of those situations.
EDIT to add:
It looks like (since I'm assuming right is down) switching which end passes through the other would make this a s... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Chrome Dome Arete (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: John,
Cue Ball is Jeff Giese, see The Giese Dome.
EDIT to add:
Giese was around and active when a lot of the stuff in this area was being done, so I wouldn't be surprised if he actually did the FA or was spotting while someone else was doing it. You're right to ask Terry, he'd probably know.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Chrome Dome Arete (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Based on the name, my guess would be Cue Ball.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Skillet Creek Bouldering ak...
By: James M Schroeder When: May 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good thing I'm a "Winsonsinite" or I'd hate to see where this would have gone.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Skillet Creek Bouldering ak...
By: James M Schroeder When: May 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris treggE wrote: This reminds me a little of the Reserve discussion. If you look now, before it gets edited, the argument looks similar but somehow different with regards to posting directions on how to get there. ;)
I just had a chance to check that out Chris, too funny! I'll get to that in a second.
Rib Mountain, mentioned above, has everything to do with the WI Natural Areas Preservation Council doing an end run around climbers, and nothing to do with... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Skillet Creek Bouldering ak...
By: James M Schroeder When: May 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick,
I'm not near a computer and typing on my phone is a pain - I was going to get back to you Monday with a decent response, but it's raining so I have some time. I will say I'm glad that you want to have a real discussion about it.
If you'll re-read my initial post I think you'll find I was simply trying to point out the extra-sensitivity of this area. Aside from that I wanted to make the more general point that not every area needs to be posted, and that for some areas posting may do more ... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Skillet Creek Bouldering ak...
By: James M Schroeder When: May 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve,
You make some valid points. I was unaware Rib was closed prior to the posting on this site -- as I'm sure many people were since there were Boulder Bashes being held without any regard for the closure. Even still it doesn't seem like the park felt it necessary to enforce the ban until after scenes like the one pictured above started happening.
I'm also aware that a good majority of the problems went up at Rib prior to it being posted here. I know many of them were done at le... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Skillet Creek Bouldering ak...
By: James M Schroeder When: May 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Burt,
Thanks for nudging us back in the right direction. I'll try and take your questions one at a time.
Burt Lindquist wrote: What exactly makes this Skillet Creek area extra sensitive and/or more sensitive then any other location within DLSP?
I think it's a number of things, some of which you touch on.
Burt Lindquist wrote: Is it because it lies on the perimeter of the park or maybe because it is so close to Wheelers Campground?
I think the answer here is yes. I don't wa... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Skillet Creek Bouldering ak...
By: James M Schroeder When: May 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick Rhoads wrote: Well James, have you now scolded me enough to be proud of yourself again? Do you feel like a bigger man? I hope so. God forbid we call each other names! GOSH!
Actually Nick, I'm not trying to scold you or boost my ego. I'm trying to have a respectful and reasoned conversation about an issue that I consider to be important in the climbing community. Perhaps you're not the person to have that conversation with.
You have lost all wind to your argume... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Skillet Creek Bouldering ak...
By: James M Schroeder When: May 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick,
I'm of the opinion that two reasonable people can disagree, and have a reasoned and respectful (possibly even light-hearted) discussion about that disagreement. Evidently that is not the case here. Suffice it to say that I lack the insecurity about myself and my opinions to resort to name calling and brow-beating - I'll let both stand on their own merits.
You and I are equally entitled to our opinions, we also both have the right to call each other all sorts of names. I however have m... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Skillet Creek Bouldering ak...
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick Rhoads wrote: If the rock is on park land it's fit to be posted.
Fair enough, I'd even say it more strongly, in that I think if it's on public land people have the right to post it. Note that I never called for the immediate removal of this post and others like it - I said, "I hope that in the future people have enough respect for the areas they're posting to consider the impact to the area and the community as well as their "rankings" in the points race." I'm not arguin... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Skillet Creek Bouldering ak...
By: James M Schroeder When: May 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: First, let me start by saying this might spur a more general discussion better suited to a forum but I'll try to keep my comments specific to this area.
This is a highly sensitive area and some of the rock near here is absolutely on private land. If you plan on climbing here make sure you know where the park boundaries are, or have permission from the landowners to climb on, or cross their property -- so that we as a climbing community don't make any waves with private landowners... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is typical of groups being guided on the East. A complete lack of respect for everything and everyone around them.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Walking in the footsteps of giants...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just had to bust your chops.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gorgeous, but that's the North shore...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Mouse's Misery (5.10a R)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whether you call it "PG13" or "R" you don't want to fall on this one. Yeah the crux is reasonably well protected, but I wouldn't call it A1, and if you blow it there and the crux gear doesn't hold, you're going to zipper onto a rather ugly landing. Anyway, it's a fun, albeit heady, lead.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Callipigeanous Crack (5.10a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think given the runout upper section this deserves a PG13, at least. Even though the climbing difficulties are over a fall from most places on the upper section wouldn't be safe...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : Last Gasp (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route deserves a PG13 designator. It would be possible to deck when going up to the last jug.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Face (5.7) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was overcast that day - so I never reached the full transition...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Mouse's Misery (5.10a R) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks guys.
Kayte - Appendix B has been created (which reminds me that I need to e-mail you Appendix A one of these days), the bottom is a bit spicy, but the crux is well protected. I started just to the left of the chunky wide crack, and used only the smaller diagnol crack systems on the face, it all felt pretty solid.
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