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Hollow Point in the middle of the photo. Route climbs right profile.


Member Since: Jun 1, 2005
Last Visit: Mar 24, 2014
Contact James Garrett


Point Rank: # 89
Total Points: 4,087
Last Year: 243
Last 30 Days: 15
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All (1328) | Routes (157) | Areas (73) | Photos (228) | Comments (282) | Posts (177) | Stars (394) | Ratings (17)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Beckey's Wall (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: nice little video of Fred if anyone is interested
Probably appeared on other sites as well…...

https://www.alpinfieber.net/fred-beckey-89-klettert-in-den-d>>>


Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Tower : East Face : Eagle Terrace (5.10b)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: The First Ascent was climbed by Kelly and Josee MacLeod from Canmore Alberta, Canada in April 2003 and they called it "Eagle Terrace", 5.10b. Climbed ground up. It is an excellent route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Errors of Our Ways (5.6)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Would whoever is adding bolts and retrofitting anchors to numerous routes in the Storm Mountain area please call or write me? Thank you.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : A Modest Man from Mandrake (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Top anchors retrofitted with Glue In bolts. Bolt #5 replaced. Thanks in advance to all who TR on their own equipment/locking carabiners.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Witches : Wicked Witch (5.9+) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: The belayer really should never stand here directly beneath the leader. Not a good idea especially without a helmet!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Climbed it with my wife Franziska a few days ago and had the typical grand desert adventure. Our choosing August is another story, but I fondly recalled the first time I climbed the route with Bobby Rotert in the early 80's and how he seemed to just fly up all that wideness without anything bigger than an old #4 Friend!

For all you Booty Hunters out there, we got a #6 (Quality booty!!!) stuck right next to the Bolt. Franziska worked it for quite some time and said it did some walkin... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : Something Wicked This Way C... (5.9 A2+)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Definitely,
Doug was special and will be missed beyond many of our years.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: Nowadays, after 100s and 100s of ascents, it completely baffles me that someone could possibly "get lost" or "can't find the route" up here. Texas Tower Tim and I recently repeated the climb and marveled at the various paths and how "worn" the route and connecting trails seem to be. With that said, we loved the "Aces High" variation and had a great time on the rest of the pitches. Not much loose rock anymore, but helmets are still a very good idea....multiple parties on this wall 7 days a week ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Day as Night (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: QLs added to Glue-In bolt at top anchor and chain lengthened to better equalize and greatly extend the life of the anchor. All other hardware on route are in good condition.

Even if TRing or leading the trad line "Dam Fine Cracks" to the right, this anchor is optimally positioned.

Not really sure what was up with the single 1/2" (slightly buckled and not flush with the rock surface) Fixe ring bolt about 1m to the east? I thought about removing the lone bolt, but left it in the end. I mean, wh... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Scenic Byway Wall : Scenic Byway (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Interesting addition to the database and quite timely. I, too, have noticed that the upper pitches tend to get ignored and always wondered why.

I climbed the route again in early May and decided to retrofit the upper pitches adding a few glue-in bolts and mostly equipping the belays with chain. Pitch #3 and Pitch #4 (they didn't need to be as run out as they used to be) are practically my favorite pitches and though still only 5.8ish, they seem much more comfortable now as I enter ... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Tower : North Face : Quarter Inch from Falling (5.11c)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: With Sandro von Känel, and because "he doesn't know how to climb cracks" :)...to avoid the wide section he blazed up the steep bolt-less face to the right. Exciting to witness. Some wide gear would certainly still be on my lead rack for this pumpy pitch. This is a bold and daring line, be careful. New top side refreshment container replaced deteriorating one that was sans cap. Thanks to previous mystery visitor's offering.
Trash and broken bottles removed from Corral Crags and Wolfenstein camp... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Syringe : Adrenaline Junkies (5.11)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Retrofitted upper belay station and removed some old fixed US Army pitons. 3 x 1/2" x 3.5" Hilti bolts placed. Chain replacing old tat. Protects quite well otherwise.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: So Crisco, where should one learn how to belay?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Sorry about the confusion!
First of all, I love the Mascot on top....way cool. We need more of that kind of stuff on desert tower tops.
As for Hx of the route, Christopher W Donharl (aka The Harl-19yo at the time!) and I had spent quite a bit of the January 2000 there in Valley Of The Gods while on the road trip of road trips on our way to El Potrero (where we had pounded more than a little of the Herradura, btw). In March, he decided to stay on longer and I returned to the roadside chunk of roc... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: Looks like Pounding Herradura? Great photos!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: Love it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Memorial Day Buttress : Dave Anderson Memorial Rout... (5.8+ A2- PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Jan 11, 2013

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Comments: Dave,
We are all still hanging with you. Having dinner with Leif and Lindi and other loved ones tonight. 15 years ago, tonight...since you started climbing on the "infinite wall". You must be climbing an OW somewhere!
Love you, man.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Family Butte
By: James Garrett When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: A Rock Climbing Guidebook written by Moab local Eric Bjornstad in 1997 offers quite a bit of history actually. All six towers have had names for at least since the early 90s. The summit registers probably were insecurely attached and have since blown away is my best guess.

Alien Child and The Daughter, p 244-245 (both named after Franziska who was at the time a "Registered Alien Green Card holder" and who had recently lost her Father (Swiss Gentleman, p244) to an accident in Switzerland) and S... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : Take Me To The River (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: I believe this to be the route where this past spring I retrofitted the two very rusty and scary spinner "top rope" bolts with massively bomber "u" type glue in Fixe bolts. I don't recall noticing any fixed anchors on the route, however, though debatable, this may be the most high traffic top rope climb in the Wasatch. It is reasonably well protected with gear on lead.
TR away!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Nice work Lisa.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : Strawberry Fields Wall
By: James Garrett When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: Isn't this the same wall as Santaqueen Wall as mentioned elsewhere?


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Grimsel : Gelmerfluh : Sagittarius (5.10b/c)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: This climb is mega classic. I only wish it had a separate rap line perhaps off to the right as it can suffer from serious traffic jams. Very consistent route and every pitch is awesome. Jürg von Känel also deserves mention as the driving force on the FA and equipping the line.


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland
By: James Garrett When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: The latest Plaisir West, Plaisir Selection, and Swiss Extreme West are all translated into English. The Plaisir Ost will also soon be available as a second updated edition and also in English.


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Furka Pass : Galengrat : Galengrat-verschneidung 5c (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Though this is included in all of the more recent Plaisir guidebooks tot the area, due to global warming glacier recession, the first pitch (which before was under ice) is harder than 5.9. The route remains a classic for position, crack climbing, and outstanding views of the entire Berner Oberland. Rock quality similar to the best in the Winds.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Witches : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: Kris Pietryga and I also climbed this being a bit surprised to find the one protection bolt in place. We found no anchors on top and figured a simul rap down opposite sides of this formation would surely have shredded our ropes on this type of rock. We installed the descent anchors at that time. We are not aware of any other history?


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