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Member Since: Jun 1, 2005
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact James Garrett

James Garrett
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Point Rank: # 93
Total Points: 4,749
Last Year: 230
Last 30 Days: 3
56 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James Garrett been climbing?










Contributions


All 1529 | Routes 182 | Areas 81 | Photos 276 | Page Improvements | Comments 334 | Posts 182 | Stars 457 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: James Garrett When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: Agree with Steiger ("climber" or "overseer" in German:)), though I easily give it 4 stars despite a few misgivings. It is really a fun and classic climb, however, if you are a new 5.6 trad leader, take one of everything on this climb....you will probably use it, and your following partner will appreciate it. Wonderful views and ambience.

No fixed gear, not even some of the old Alpenbock pitons that used to appear here and there...so i... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire
By: James Garrett When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: We are from out of State and it had been a long time since we had last climbed in the area, however, we found the approach quite enjoyable despite so much snow we could not even drive into the parking lot. We reluctantly took crampons, but we both wore them on the approach which made it a total breeze as the snow was pretty hard otherwise to kick steps into and more time consuming for others.

But of course, now all of these may be moot points....but what an absolutely awesome place! I had only ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips
By: James Garrett When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Climbing in this area very briefly on 11 June when it started to rain, if anyone found my Apple Watch it would be greatly appreciated to see it again....we have this relationship, you know:) I searched my pack and then returned to the area and searched everywhere feasible, but...?

There is no current "Find My Apple Watch" feature as their is with the other devices and it needs close proximity to its paired iPhone to function....probably be of no use to anyone els... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : Lone Rock
By: James Garrett When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Thank you Kaleb for the condition report, albeit a sad statement about climber haters in America.
I would recommend glue in bolts as replacement as these are definitely "harder" to remove and are much safer and resistant to the corrosive nature of being in such close proximity to the Great Salt Lake.
Please let me know when you plan to go out there, I would love to help out with all the work and contribute to the material / equipment needs.
I commend your letter and your reconstructive spirit. T... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Photo
By: James Garrett When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: It didn't make it into the guidebook because it had already been printed and was on the shelves:)!
How goes it Cam? Let's get out!


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Bear Hollow Wall : Unknown Left Most Route (5.10-)
By: James Garrett When: May 7, 2016

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Comments: Yes, this is called Corn On The Cobble and has been on this site at this location for a number of years.


Location: UT : Ibex : Corral Crags : Southern Corral Crag : Old and In The Weigh (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: This was a misprint in the guidebook. Cam wanted it called "Old And In The Weigh" :) thanks in advance for correcting it!


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : The Valley of Zion : Blob's Your Uncle : Elysian Fields (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Hi Teeters, yea, I agree, it would have been nice to go to the top, but that whole upper section is hollow and rotten as I recall. Great idea to respect the Eagles nesting and caring for their young... Thanks for adding that to the comments:)


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: Mar 11, 2016

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Comments: I agree with Anthony,
Thanks for the excellent condition and status report Cole and Woogie! Impressive how the whole area around the bolt hole is completely blown out! Is that rock around the blown hole loose and unstable or does it now take gear? Which anchor did you lower from? And also, how many bolts in your opinion should be replaced with Glue Ins?
Glad you enjoyed the climb.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: Well foof, shows how little you know.... None of the bolts placed by this climber nor the one that pulled was a stud or wedge type bolt.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: Feb 25, 2016

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Comments: "Johnny" was recently climbed when the sandstone was probably wet and it resulted in a failure of the last bolt before the anchors. Even the best placements may result in failing when sandstone has had long rains or patches of snow slowly melting and trickling into and supersaturating the sandstone. The entire 1/2" x 3" Hilti HLC sleeve bolt pulled out with body weight. Luckily, the bolt below (in probably drier rock and about 12 feet below) held and arrested this almost 25' fall.

In the meanti... more >>


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Almaz (5.10c/d)
By: James Garrett When: Dec 13, 2015

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Comments: Much more cleaning done on the route...hardish tricky 5.10+ well protected moves down low but then jug city for more than 2/3 of the upper route. If in addis, take a trip to Amora Gedelle and get after it!!! Only QDs needed!


Location: Africa : Uganda : Luwazi Rock
By: James Garrett When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Since this area has been entered into the database, the local climbing community has been very busy indeed. This is no longer just another TR crag, but after painstakingly finding the crag from the MP description, we found about 9-10 bolted climbs with excellent bomber hardware.

I wish we could have found out the names of the nice routes we climbed. but maybe they will eventually added to the database?

If visiting without the benefit of a local showing you the way,(like we did!) the drive is a... more >>


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Habesha (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: Chain added to the anchors and this is probably the most climbed route on the crag.


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Cracked Wheat (5.10d)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: First pitch belay location moved up and chain anchors placed. Now the rope avoids a sharp edge. Steep!!


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Easy Eshi (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, good job Ken... Nice features and quality rock...some Nuts can really sew it up, otherwide kind of run out.


Location: Africa
By: James Garrett When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Why NO comments or entries about Nigeria???? Zuma Rock looks awesome and apparently only one quality route on this huge granite dome? Anybody been there recently?


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: I did this route and led everything in the late 80s when it was considerably new. All I remember most of all was that At the time it was rated either "easy 5.9" or even 5.8:).... I was intimidated as hell and thought it was the greatest sandbag I had ever managed to grovel my way up:)!.... Adventuresome, but I would never even contemplate repeating it ...even if someone paid me to take them up it!!! Inthink climbers today must simply be way more hardcore!!! The move off the summit, you blow it, ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : Church Fork Wall : Bohemian Crystal (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: With all the additional (I imagine to be more recent) activity on this wall, I suppose things can seem or remain confusing. Bohemian Crystal is the original line on the crag and as it follows the natural weaknesses, it is a bit of a wavering line... So with the unreported additions ( now 5 or 6 routes on the wall, it is even more confusing. But I like BC alot, and at 10a, it is undoubtedly the easiest route up there. It is a favorite of mine and it must be getting traffic as it seemed very clean... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast : Beauty (5.11b)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: A couple of comments:
1. In a discussion with Quino....yes the deviation and turn off of the main trail can be confusing. With that said, I have marked the turn off of the main trail by minor clipping and trimming a lot of the thick underbrush and even tied a brown thin tag line along the trail that leads directly to the creek crossing. Once you are walking along a very flat section of the main Bells trail, keep your eyes observing to the left (North) side of the trail for these markers. You sho... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Heart Rock Area : Heart Rock : Tachycardia (5.7+)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: Very nice, just to point out that the summit book register is already pretty filled up...it is a nice little tradition that has been installed up there and fun reading... Let us hope that a Volume Two is added and the original stays put for future reads:)... Really an improbable and fun climb on par w Great Chasm... Thanks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Looking Glass Rock : Regular Route (5.4 PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: A number of the old stud bolts and sleeve bolts (all of which were sticking way out or were spinners) were pulled and replaced by Glue In SS bolts. The same hole was used in all placements.

Though this route is easy and often soloed, it is important to keep in mind that often the fixed hardware on these routes can not be entirely trusted. It may be a good idea to place gear where possible.

The rap anchor was fortified as well. A fun outing!


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Habesha (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Nice rock, nice features, and like the Habesha, nice laid back and casual friendly atmosphere:):) btw, it is probably 20 feet getting to the second bolt so the route length needs correction on the description. Getting alot of traffic.....


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: If the FA was done in late 90's then I repeated it in early 2000s, but without any really big camalots ...we may have had one med size big bro but otherwise felt totally intimidated on it:):)...to say this is similar to Iron Messiah is either the most massive of sandbags or climbers today are so much more comfortable on "anything" less than 5.12 terrain....regardless of climbing style or wideness:):)....probabaly the latter!!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Betty's Altered Elbow (5.9+)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: I don't think anyone is getting a 60m rope to work here for rappelling the route. The description clearly states you need a 70m rope. If a pitch is 35m long you can pretty much bet that a 60m won't work.


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