Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jun 1, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact James Garrett

James Garrett
is a member of
Point Rank: # 87
Total Points: 4,603
Last Year: 464
Last 30 Days: 2
83 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James Garrett been climbing?










Contributions


All 1464 | Routes 176 | Areas 80 | Photos 266 | Page Improvements | Comments 313 | Posts 182 | Stars 430 | Ratings 17
Page 1 of 13.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: James Garrett When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: If the FA was done in late 90's then I repeated it in early 2000s, but without any really big camalots ...we may have had one med size big bro but otherwise felt totally intimidated on it:):)...to say this is similar to Iron Messiah is either the most massive of sandbags or climbers today are so much more comfortable on "anything" less than 5.12 terrain....regardless of climbing style or wideness:):)....probabaly the latter!!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Betty's Altered Elbow (5.9+)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I don't think anyone is getting a 60m rope to work here for rappelling the route. The description clearly states you need a 70m rope. If a pitch is 35m long you can pretty much bet that a 60m won't work.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Callitwhatyouplease (5.8)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: So he must have a few painted blue that also often supplement 1 hand drilled bolt station rappels. Curious collection of a rock scarring activity....


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Callitwhatyouplease (5.8)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Another one of my favorite climbs....really sad that the historical pitons were removed, I mean you can't use them anywhere else...and they definately were NOT loose, kind of like Nazi book burner mentality.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Super Slab : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Who cares what's behind her.....:)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Six Appeal (5.6)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Agree with Brian Smoot, this is one of those extremely popular moderate often repeated routes in BCC. I replaced numerous (but not all) especially the really rusted bolts back around 2012 if I recall the approx dates. The spinning anchor was the primary goal and a few glue ins were installed as well as 1/2" x 3,5" Hilti HLCs were installed. New chain / links/ rings were also replaced during this time. The removed rusted bolts on 80s era SMC hangers were 3/8" x 2 1/4" old very corroded Rawls. It... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Netherworld : Hydraform Ridge (5.8 A3)
By: James Garrett When: May 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: For the hoardes of Ancient Art climbing Fisher Tower spraying clueless wannabees, (which prob gets more than 90% of Fisher/Mystery tower traffic) this climb is the real deal. The Hydra was long on my list but the ice axe antics always creeped me out. Seth Shaw and I once repeated a Smoot route in LCC where one has to do a rope toss, sling a knob and then jug up and start climbing...I made the toss, but strong Seth silently and very seriously creeped up the rope....A climb like what you managed h... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Netherworld : Hydraform Ridge (5.8 A3)
By: James Garrett When: May 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, very cool...strong work. So this is completely separate from the Hydra? What an amazing area....you guys are cleaning up:), again heavy duty Kudos your way!....would you care to share how much time for the FA? And when did you do it? In between lots of weather...tell us more! We want to hear a good Fisher story!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Salem's Lot (5.10c)
By: James Garrett When: May 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for bringing to our attention anything that appears out of the ordinary or perhaps unsafe. I do, however, recall when I installed this anchor that it looked like it tilted a bit downward immediately after placing it. Nature of the rock? As for the "cracking" in the glue on the surface of the glue in, not sure. Does it wiggle or is it loose? That bolt is long and I would bet it is super bomber UNLESS the rock around it has become unstable? If anyone else can add any more info on the status... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: May 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, silly perhaps and no doubt a bigger adventure for my belayers who never left the ground...and yes, "Johnny" could have been climbed in the same style as the original obscure not repeated aid climb with its only two bolts in the most rotten summit capstone imaginable...but it wasn't.


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Chigger Yellem (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: May 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: How many of the local kids have Camalots and trad gear to protect? :):)...consider, bolts....it is a sport crag anyway....:) look forward to climbing it, thanks Nico


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Very prudent:):):) I would bet most people on this forum don't even know what bashies are....


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Assembly Hall Peak : Heavy Metal (5.10 C0)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Sarah,
Franziska Garrett and I did the FA of Heavy Metal more than 23 years ago on 22 October 1992 on one of her many birthday climbs.

I can understand your confusion as per bolt count and aid rating, but I have always tried to immediately report the most accurate rating for how I actually climbed the route. That said, many of the routes then and more recently end up with an aid rating attachment. The styles usually evolve and metamorphose greatly between the FA on lead/equipping/cleaning/ ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Apr 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It is Fred Beckey! They took his Washington Drivers License away from him, so he is hanging out on the granite....


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak
By: James Garrett When: Feb 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Congratulations and kudos to Niels Tietze and Mason Earle who did the First (known) Winter Ascent of the complete lower and upper North Face of Notch Peak in one day. IMHO the most bad ass climb that probably anyone will do in Utah this year! The two Utah locals connected Western Hardman and La Fin du Monde on one cold day 8 January 2015. Thanks for relating the adventure:)!!


Location: UT : Ibex : Shadow Buttress : Made in the Shade (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: Feb 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It seems almost sad, however, and not continue up the great pitches on In The Shadow Of the Jihad Certainly one of the best routes in the area. Keep going! QDs are enough


Location: UT : Ibex : Steamboat Pass : Through the Never (5.9) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Dec 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Nice shot! Thanks!


Location: International : Africa : Namibia : Spitzkoppe and Pontoks
By: James Garrett When: Dec 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This place has been way too under reported. Think City of Rocks but on a way larger "big wall" scale. Two tiny sentences to describe this place and very recently at that, is nothing more than an insult to phenomenal climbing and better potential. Camping is exceptional with great facilities nestled in the rocks. The most recent guidebook seems to be nowhere to be found, and I cling to a 90s copy I can't remember anymore where was obtained.

The drive from Windhoek is comparable to Moab from Salt... more >>


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Tenish Tenish (5.10)
By: James Garrett When: Dec 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: TT is the most well protected route on the crag and is a sport route. The continuation above on SR is not a true trad climb by definition as it was also rap drilled. Due to a scarcity of bolt availability, however, you would be advised to place some gear here or there. I doubt if anything here was actually put up from the ground making it a true "trad climb". An evolving definition, i guess. Nice place to escape Addis and feel abit of the countryside!!:):)


Location: International : Asia : Jordan : Wadi Rum
By: James Garrett When: Nov 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Tony Howard and his guidebooks are definitively biased on the side of super strict trad climbing. Many excellent modern bolt protected multipitch classics submitted to him for inclusion have been lost to obscurity and only available word of mouth. A new up to date modern guide may be in the works, so please consider getting the word out to other sources:)!! Jordan has so much climbing and it certainly is NOT restricted to Wadi Rum, which is like saying castle Valley is the only climbing in Moab!... more >>


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The rock tossing comment is meant for any climbers visiting that are new to the area and not fluent in Amaric as Nico is. Rocks are more common than once in 2+ years, for sure, unfortunately.


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It is crimp city on vegetated and licheny holds on generally sound basalt. The approach is longer than 15 minutes and it is crucial to take along some locals who will dissuade the cute kids from tossing rocks off the top. Don't even think about climbing here without a helmet unless you have someone on top controlling the rock toss competition by local kids. Though this is addis ababa, this is "out in the country side" compared to Addis. Expect extremely sporty bolt spacing.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Bear Hollow Wall : Comment : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Oct 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Bravo John:)!! Strong work, wish I could have been there to help out!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag
By: James Garrett When: Oct 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The 4 or five popular routes on the West end of Dogwood Crag have had their top anchors retrofitted. In some cases, old worn Rap Leeper hangers had deep grooves and then had been equipped with chain which in turn seemed scary thin. All chain was removed and rings were secured on glue in bolts. Should be good to go for a few generations, I should think:)


Location: UT : Ibex : Snakeskin Buttress : Snakeskin (5.9+)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Pitch #2 Rappel Anchor retrofitted October 2014. Pulls no problem.


Page 1 of 13.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!