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Member Since: Jun 1, 2005
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact James Garrett

James Garrett
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Point Rank: # 94
Total Points: 4,815
Last Year: 182
Last 30 Days: 58
56 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James Garrett been climbing?










Contributions


All 1557 | Routes 183 | Areas 83 | Photos 278 | Page Improvements | Comments 350 | Posts 182 | Stars 464 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Hell is for Children (5.6)
By: James Garrett When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Hellgate Highway was occupied, which was a first for me having someone on a Main Hellgate route at the same time I was up there:)...so we visited the Hell is For Children Area (another first for Franziska and me)....it is quite good and it was heart warming to do a route by some genuine 90's era Alta locals Danny Caruso (now a long time living and skiing in Davos, Switzerland) and Bill Hunt, aka the King of Hellgate...both of whom I haven't seen in ages an... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Triangle Wall : Stratosphere (5.10c/d C1+)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: If the Pitch#4 "belay tree" is indeed dead, by all means....the next party to go up is encouraged to install a new two-bolt belay nearby. Thanks for the update. I think the last pitch was equipped with bigger bolts than the 1/4"ers drilled by hand on the FA.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : Dark Horse (5.11 R)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: For sure classic, but unfortunately, one of those classics that I will only lead once:):)... I hear at least the 1/4" er has been retrofitted with more girth. Ranks way up there in one of the scarier and bolder leads in the Wasatch. And drilled on lead, very proud.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : Hook, Line and Sinker (5.10b)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: Some nice climbing but not in the same league as other Fin route classics. The rappel route needs retrofitting and some half measured changes and additions seem perplexing.


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Gheralta Range Koraro Spire... : Magic Smelly Poodle (5.11 PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: This route recently saw a probable second ascent by Niels who again led everything and Timmy O'Neill. Neither felt it was PG, even R is a stretch.... X seems to be more appropriate. A few of us watched from afar from Abuna Yemata. No bolted anchors necessitated a more complicated and time consuming descent than ascent. Sounds pretty scary:)!


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Easy Eshi (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Not a sport route for 5.9 leaders. ....unless you feel meters upon meters of dirty crack climbing needs no gear to back up the very sparsely placed bolts and soft iron army pitons....good climbing though and fun adventure/ movement. I had a singles rack to #3 Camalot and placed every thing.... Super jungle veg conditions... Spicy ...oh, and a few spinner hangers that yearn for a wrench


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Shadow of the Blade (5.10d PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: Wow!... Glad you guys are OK. The whole formation is a choss heap and one must walk softly on the back of the Devil.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Lower Narrows - Creek Side
By: James Garrett When: Sep 2, 2016

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Comments: Way to get after it Dave:)!!! And Mark!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Unknown (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: 2nd pitch of Fall Equinox and I put it up a few days after equipping the first (lower tier) pitch. Your grading sounds about right.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Great suggestion and also much appreciated....and also please leave the filled up register/wall books in the container there where they are!....

Should be plenty of room for adding a number of new booklets. I don't think anybody realized how popular this route would become. Again thanks in advance to whoever takes up another register book:)...it is old school, but it's fun reading nonetheless.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Snowbasin : Mt. Ogden : ... : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: I think this piton is not "broken", as it is a sawed off angle at the final belay which can be replaced by a micro Camelot....colorful rock... Probably melt freeze rattled it loose:)...nice photo.


Location: Oceania : New Zealand : South Island : Paynes Ford
By: James Garrett When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: Agree with germsauce... I love this place and the Rock is high quality limestone!!:)


Location: Oceania : New Zealand : South Island
By: James Garrett When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: I was advised not to bother with bringing rock gear this time of year as it would only be wet and cold and it was "too early for skiing".... All of which couldn't be further from the truth:)!
New Zealand roadside cragging rocks and is of high quality and so beautiful with the seaside vistas nearby!
Perfect temps and cragging conditions right now! Kiwiland rocks!!:) so beautiful!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Brighton's Frighton Wall : Fret ArĂȘte (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: Matthew Washburn RIP...we had fun putting up this route together that summer day.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: I was "marking the way" for Franziska:):)... Yea, right:) might have been a bit excessive.... It is sad that Gottman left the party way too early. Maybe the descent will grow on me if we do it more than once every 20 years!!!:)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: Agree with Der Steiger:).... Don't know where this is on the route, if you stay on the arĂȘte itself the going is much more aesthetic


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Agree with Steiger ("climber" or "overseer" in German:)), though I easily give it 4 stars despite a few misgivings. It is really a fun and classic climb, however, if you are a new 5.6 trad leader, take one of everything on this climb....you will probably use it, and your following partner will appreciate it. Wonderful views and ambience.

No fixed gear, not even some of the old Alpenbock pitons that used to appear here and there...so i... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire
By: James Garrett When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: We are from out of State and it had been a long time since we had last climbed in the area, however, we found the approach quite enjoyable despite so much snow we could not even drive into the parking lot. We reluctantly took crampons, but we both wore them on the approach which made it a total breeze as the snow was pretty hard otherwise to kick steps into and more time consuming for others.

But of course, now all of these may be moot points....but what an absolutely awesome place! I had only ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips
By: James Garrett When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Climbing in this area very briefly on 11 June when it started to rain, if anyone found my Apple Watch it would be greatly appreciated to see it again....we have this relationship, you know:) I searched my pack and then returned to the area and searched everywhere feasible, but...?

There is no current "Find My Apple Watch" feature as their is with the other devices and it needs close proximity to its paired iPhone to function....probably be of no use to anyone els... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : Lone Rock
By: James Garrett When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Thank you Kaleb for the condition report, albeit a sad statement about climber haters in America.
I would recommend glue in bolts as replacement as these are definitely "harder" to remove and are much safer and resistant to the corrosive nature of being in such close proximity to the Great Salt Lake.
Please let me know when you plan to go out there, I would love to help out with all the work and contribute to the material / equipment needs.
I commend your letter and your reconstructive spirit. T... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Photo
By: James Garrett When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: It didn't make it into the guidebook because it had already been printed and was on the shelves:)!
How goes it Cam? Let's get out!


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Bear Hollow Wall : Unknown Left Most Route (5.10-)
By: James Garrett When: May 7, 2016

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Comments: Yes, this is called Corn On The Cobble and has been on this site at this location for a number of years.


Location: UT : Ibex : Corral Crags : Southern Corral Crag : Old and In The Weigh (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: This was a misprint in the guidebook. Cam wanted it called "Old And In The Weigh" :) thanks in advance for correcting it!


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : The Valley of Zion : Blob's Your Uncle : Elysian Fields (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Hi Teeters, yea, I agree, it would have been nice to go to the top, but that whole upper section is hollow and rotten as I recall. Great idea to respect the Eagles nesting and caring for their young... Thanks for adding that to the comments:)


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: Mar 11, 2016

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Comments: I agree with Anthony,
Thanks for the excellent condition and status report Cole and Woogie! Impressive how the whole area around the bolt hole is completely blown out! Is that rock around the blown hole loose and unstable or does it now take gear? Which anchor did you lower from? And also, how many bolts in your opinion should be replaced with Glue Ins?
Glad you enjoyed the climb.


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