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Hollow Point in the middle of the photo. Route climbs right profile.


Member Since: Jun 1, 2005
Last Visit: Oct 18, 2014
Contact James Garrett


Point Rank: # 100
Total Points: 4,150
Last Year: 117
Last 30 Days: 8
72 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James Garrett been climbing?










Contributions


All 1357 | Routes 159 | Areas 74 | Photos 232 | Page Improvements | Comments 290 | Posts 179 | Stars 406 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag
By: James Garrett When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: The 4 or five popular routes on the West end of Dogwood Crag have had their top anchors retrofitted. In some cases, old worn Rap Leeper hangers had deep grooves and then had been equipped with chain which in turn seemed scary thin. All chain was removed and rings were secured on glue in bolts. Should be good to go for a few generations, I should think:)


Location: UT : Ibex : Snakeskin Buttress : Snakeskin (5.9+)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: Pitch #2 Rappel Anchor retrofitted October 2014. Pulls no problem.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: The rotten huge tree lying useless in the gully was truly impressive! A new glue in rappel anchor was installed to replace it. Additional added improvements to a fun route on an excellent colorful Fall day. No gerry rigging needed to rappel the entire route with ONE 70m rope.

Did some trail maintenance to the pretty overgrown trail. Hopefully it is easier to find. Thanks to whoever added the needed supports to the rickety bridge! It is so nice now.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : James Tower AKA The Lightbl... (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Wow, Burr quality:)!


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow Wall
By: James Garrett When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: The recent roadside grid bolted routes by Dan McCann and friends in this area do pose a threat to future route developers on both public and private lands. The routes themselves are pretty fun. Long strands of unpainted bright silver chain and unpainted hangers are not viewed kindly by either land managers or other climbers. Would someone please take it upon themselves to make these anchors more invisible? I know alot of cleaning and work went into these routes, which I applaud, but pre-painting... more >>


Location: MT : The Heap
By: James Garrett When: Sep 13, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing. Many bolts found loose, were tightened and a few manky spinners pulled, patched, and replaced. Nice Montana rock!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: Good question! Then again, why did they let go of the rappel ropes? It is a cool photo, but their have always been a few things going on wrong in it, too:)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Yes, this was the original "annual reunion" or "cult" tower. My condolences to Jimmy. Our oceans are swelling, our towers are collapsing.


Location: MN : Ely's Peak (Duluth) : Waking Up In Duluth (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: I guess i was being a cynic as when we were climbing in Duluth, everyone kept talking about "set ups" in referring to "top rope set ups". This route can be comfortably led with a light rack and some quickdraws:):):). Did you do it, then?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b)
By: James Garrett When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: The FA of Moses (1972) was via this route by Eric Bjornstad and Fred Beckey. Both were in Moab recently (Memorial wend 2014) and this retrofit and some of the old pulled bolts they had taken turns hand drilling were handed over to them as a gesture of good will. Both were genuinely excited about the interest in Moses and updating the route with new hardware. Eric is 80 this year and Fred (92) made a special trip last week from Seattle to visit him in the Care Center in Moab near the Hospital and... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : North Summit : Valhallelujah! (5.8 R)
By: James Garrett When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: Scramble up and over the ridge crest and then rapping the Great Chimney is possible. That's what we did.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Beckey's Wall (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: nice little video of Fred if anyone is interested
Probably appeared on other sites as well…...

alpinfieber.net/fred-beckey-89...


Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Tower : East Face : Eagle Terrace (5.10b)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: The First Ascent was climbed by Kelly and Josee MacLeod from Canmore Alberta, Canada in April 2003 and they called it "Eagle Terrace", 5.10b. Climbed ground up. It is an excellent route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Errors of Our Ways (5.6)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Would whoever is adding bolts and retrofitting anchors to numerous routes in the Storm Mountain area please call or write me? Thank you.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : A Modest Man from Mandrake (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Top anchors retrofitted with Glue In bolts. Bolt #5 replaced. Thanks in advance to all who TR on their own equipment/locking carabiners.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Witches : Wicked Witch (5.9+) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: The belayer really should never stand here directly beneath the leader. Not a good idea especially without a helmet!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Climbed it with my wife Franziska a few days ago and had the typical grand desert adventure. Our choosing August is another story, but I fondly recalled the first time I climbed the route with Bobby Rotert in the early 80's and how he seemed to just fly up all that wideness without anything bigger than an old #4 Friend!

For all you Booty Hunters out there, we got a #6 (Quality booty!!!) stuck right next to the Bolt. Franziska worked it for quite some time and said it did some walkin... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : Something Wicked This Way C... (5.9 A2+)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Definitely,
Doug was special and will be missed beyond many of our years.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: Nowadays, after 100s and 100s of ascents, it completely baffles me that someone could possibly "get lost" or "can't find the route" up here. Texas Tower Tim and I recently repeated the climb and marveled at the various paths and how "worn" the route and connecting trails seem to be. With that said, we loved the "Aces High" variation and had a great time on the rest of the pitches. Not much loose rock anymore, but helmets are still a very good idea....multiple parties on this wall 7 days a week ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Day as Night (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: QLs added to Glue-In bolt at top anchor and chain lengthened to better equalize and greatly extend the life of the anchor. All other hardware on route are in good condition.

Even if TRing or leading the trad line "Dam Fine Cracks" to the right, this anchor is optimally positioned.

Not really sure what was up with the single 1/2" (slightly buckled and not flush with the rock surface) Fixe ring bolt about 1m to the east? I thought about removing the lone bolt, but left it in the end. I mean, wh... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Scenic Byway Wall : Scenic Byway (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Interesting addition to the database and quite timely. I, too, have noticed that the upper pitches tend to get ignored and always wondered why.

I climbed the route again in early May and decided to retrofit the upper pitches adding a few glue-in bolts and mostly equipping the belays with chain. Pitch #3 and Pitch #4 (they didn't need to be as run out as they used to be) are practically my favorite pitches and though still only 5.8ish, they seem much more comfortable now as I enter ... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Tower : North Face : Quarter Inch from Falling (5.11c)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: With Sandro von Känel, and because "he doesn't know how to climb cracks" :)...to avoid the wide section he blazed up the steep bolt-less face to the right. Exciting to witness. Some wide gear would certainly still be on my lead rack for this pumpy pitch. This is a bold and daring line, be careful. New top side refreshment container replaced deteriorating one that was sans cap. Thanks to previous mystery visitor's offering.
Trash and broken bottles removed from Corral Crags and Wolfenstein camp... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Syringe : Adrenaline Junkies (5.11)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Retrofitted upper belay station and removed some old fixed US Army pitons. 3 x 1/2" x 3.5" Hilti bolts placed. Chain replacing old tat. Protects quite well otherwise.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: So Crisco, where should one learn how to belay?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Sorry about the confusion!
First of all, I love the Mascot on top....way cool. We need more of that kind of stuff on desert tower tops.
As for Hx of the route, Christopher W Donharl (aka The Harl-19yo at the time!) and I had spent quite a bit of the January 2000 there in Valley Of The Gods while on the road trip of road trips on our way to El Potrero (where we had pounded more than a little of the Herradura, btw). In March, he decided to stay on longer and I returned to the roadside chunk of roc... more >>


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