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Member Since: Jun 1, 2005
Last Visit: Feb 3, 2016
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James Garrett
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Point Rank: # 90
Total Points: 4,703
Last Year: 383
Last 30 Days: 0
54 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1506 | Routes 181 | Areas 81 | Photos 271 | Page Improvements | Comments 323 | Posts 182 | Stars 451 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Almaz (5.10c/d)
By: James Garrett When: Dec 13, 2015

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Comments: Much more cleaning done on the route...hardish tricky 5.10+ well protected moves down low but then jug city for more than 2/3 of the upper route. If in addis, take a trip to Amora Gedelle and get after it!!! Only QDs needed!


Location: Africa : Uganda : Luwazi Rock
By: James Garrett When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Since this area has been entered into the database, the local climbing community has been very busy indeed. This is no longer just another TR crag, but after painstakingly finding the crag from the MP description, we found about 9-10 bolted climbs with excellent bomber hardware.

I wish we could have found out the names of the nice routes we climbed. but maybe they will eventually added to the database?

If visiting without the benefit of a local showing you the way,(like we did!) the drive is a... more >>


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Habesha (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: Chain added to the anchors and this is probably the most climbed route on the crag.


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Cracked Wheat (5.10d)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: First pitch belay location moved up and chain anchors placed. Now the rope avoids a sharp edge. Steep!!


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Easy Eshi (5.7+)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, good job Ken... Nice features and quality rock...some Nuts can really sew it up, otherwide kind of run out.


Location: Africa
By: James Garrett When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Why NO comments or entries about Nigeria???? Zuma Rock looks awesome and apparently only one quality route on this huge granite dome? Anybody been there recently?


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: I did this route and led everything in the late 80s when it was considerably new. All I remember most of all was that At the time it was rated either "easy 5.9" or even 5.8:).... I was intimidated as hell and thought it was the greatest sandbag I had ever managed to grovel my way up:)!.... Adventuresome, but I would never even contemplate repeating it ...even if someone paid me to take them up it!!! Inthink climbers today must simply be way more hardcore!!! The move off the summit, you blow it, ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : Church Fork Wall : Bohemian Crystal (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: With all the additional (I imagine to be more recent) activity on this wall, I suppose things can seem or remain confusing. Bohemian Crystal is the original line on the crag and as it follows the natural weaknesses, it is a bit of a wavering line... So with the unreported additions ( now 5 or 6 routes on the wall, it is even more confusing. But I like BC alot, and at 10a, it is undoubtedly the easiest route up there. It is a favorite of mine and it must be getting traffic as it seemed very clean... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast : Beauty (5.11b)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: A couple of comments:
1. In a discussion with Quino....yes the deviation and turn off of the main trail can be confusing. With that said, I have marked the turn off of the main trail by minor clipping and trimming a lot of the thick underbrush and even tied a brown thin tag line along the trail that leads directly to the creek crossing. Once you are walking along a very flat section of the main Bells trail, keep your eyes observing to the left (North) side of the trail for these markers. You sho... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Heart Rock Area : Heart Rock : Tachycardia (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: Very nice, just to point out that the summit book register is already pretty filled up...it is a nice little tradition that has been installed up there and fun reading... Let us hope that a Volume Two is added and the original stays put for future reads:)... Really an improbable and fun climb on par w Great Chasm... Thanks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Looking Glass Rock : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: A number of the old stud bolts and sleeve bolts (all of which were sticking way out or were spinners) were pulled and replaced by Glue In SS bolts. The same hole was used in all placements.

Though this route is easy and often soloed, it is important to keep in mind that often the fixed hardware on these routes can not be entirely trusted. It may be a good idea to place gear where possible.

The rap anchor was fortified as well. A fun outing!


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Habesha (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Nice rock, nice features, and like the Habesha, nice laid back and casual friendly atmosphere:):) btw, it is probably 20 feet getting to the second bolt so the route length needs correction on the description. Getting alot of traffic.....


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: If the FA was done in late 90's then I repeated it in early 2000s, but without any really big camalots ...we may have had one med size big bro but otherwise felt totally intimidated on it:):)...to say this is similar to Iron Messiah is either the most massive of sandbags or climbers today are so much more comfortable on "anything" less than 5.12 terrain....regardless of climbing style or wideness:):)....probabaly the latter!!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Betty's Altered Elbow (5.9+)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: I don't think anyone is getting a 60m rope to work here for rappelling the route. The description clearly states you need a 70m rope. If a pitch is 35m long you can pretty much bet that a 60m won't work.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Callitwhatyouplease (5.8)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: So he must have a few painted blue that also often supplement 1 hand drilled bolt station rappels. Curious collection of a rock scarring activity....


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Callitwhatyouplease (5.8)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Another one of my favorite climbs....really sad that the historical pitons were removed, I mean you can't use them anywhere else...and they definately were NOT loose, kind of like Nazi book burner mentality.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Super Slab : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: Who cares what's behind her.....:)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Six Appeal (5.6)
By: James Garrett When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: Agree with Brian Smoot, this is one of those extremely popular moderate often repeated routes in BCC. I replaced numerous (but not all) especially the really rusted bolts back around 2012 if I recall the approx dates. The spinning anchor was the primary goal and a few glue ins were installed as well as 1/2" x 3,5" Hilti HLCs were installed. New chain / links/ rings were also replaced during this time. The removed rusted bolts on 80s era SMC hangers were 3/8" x 2 1/4" old very corroded Rawls. It... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Netherworld : Hydraform Ridge (5.8 A3)
By: James Garrett When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: For the hoardes of Ancient Art climbing Fisher Tower spraying clueless wannabees, (which prob gets more than 90% of Fisher/Mystery tower traffic) this climb is the real deal. The Hydra was long on my list but the ice axe antics always creeped me out. Seth Shaw and I once repeated a Smoot route in LCC where one has to do a rope toss, sling a knob and then jug up and start climbing...I made the toss, but strong Seth silently and very seriously creeped up the rope....A climb like what you managed h... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Netherworld : Hydraform Ridge (5.8 A3)
By: James Garrett When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Wow, very cool...strong work. So this is completely separate from the Hydra? What an amazing area....you guys are cleaning up:), again heavy duty Kudos your way!....would you care to share how much time for the FA? And when did you do it? In between lots of weather...tell us more! We want to hear a good Fisher story!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Salem's Lot (5.10c)
By: James Garrett When: May 23, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for bringing to our attention anything that appears out of the ordinary or perhaps unsafe. I do, however, recall when I installed this anchor that it looked like it tilted a bit downward immediately after placing it. Nature of the rock? As for the "cracking" in the glue on the surface of the glue in, not sure. Does it wiggle or is it loose? That bolt is long and I would bet it is super bomber UNLESS the rock around it has become unstable? If anyone else can add any more info on the status... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Yes, silly perhaps and no doubt a bigger adventure for my belayers who never left the ground...and yes, "Johnny" could have been climbed in the same style as the original obscure not repeated aid climb with its only two bolts in the most rotten summit capstone imaginable...but it wasn't.


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Chigger Yellem (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: How many of the local kids have Camalots and trad gear to protect? :):)...consider, bolts....it is a sport crag anyway....:) look forward to climbing it, thanks Nico


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Very prudent:):):) I would bet most people on this forum don't even know what bashies are....


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Assembly Hall Peak : Heavy Metal (5.10 C0)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Hi Sarah,
Franziska Garrett and I did the FA of Heavy Metal more than 23 years ago on 22 October 1992 on one of her many birthday climbs.

I can understand your confusion as per bolt count and aid rating, but I have always tried to immediately report the most accurate rating for how I actually climbed the route. That said, many of the routes then and more recently end up with an aid rating attachment. The styles usually evolve and metamorphose greatly between the FA on lead/equipping/cleaning/ ... more >>


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