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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Marching Men : Sand Hearse (Original Route... (5.11+ PG13)
By: jakobi When: Apr 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Might be the most appropriately named tower on the plateau.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Gold Bar Canyon : Flinstone Rock : Wilma (5.11)
By: jakobi When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Duly noted Steven.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : 30 Seconds Over Potash (5.8)
By: jakobi When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's called Rynomight or something close to that.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : I Love Loosey (5.12b/c)
By: jakobi When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two routes right of Baby Blue, the anchors have had a fixed line connecting another set of higher anchors for the last couple of years. Maybe someone's proj?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Nuns : The Unforgiven (5.11c)
By: jakobi When: Mar 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess I should have read the description better, I climbed to the last bolt but traversed left to the 2nd pitch anchor for the original finish which seemed contrived. There's no real indication of where to go after the last bolt which just leaves you in the middle of the face looking at a 15 ft runout traverse in either direction.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Merrimac Butte, The Albatro... (5.11c)
By: jakobi When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty darn good route, you might forget that you're climbing Entrada.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Washer Woman : In Search Of Suds (5.10+)
By: jakobi When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seems like the final rappel is a rope eater, If double-rope rappelling the route, fight the urge to rap from the chain anchor mid descent to the ground. There's one more anchor station on climber's right that we used and it seems to keep the ropes clear of the constriction that collects ropes when making the final pull.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Northside Routes : Trail of The Navajo (5.11c)
By: jakobi When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is a desert aficianado's classic. Josh's route description and gear suggestion is great but I might suggest a blue big bro for pitch five, though it would probably be difficult to place especially if you layback it like I did. Also bring a camera so you can capture the moment as the leader does ridiculous things on pitch 8. Thanks Josh and Matt for the info.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Northside Routes : Trail of The Navajo (5.11c)
By: jakobi When: Feb 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where did the name "Princess" come from? As Matt mentioned Leonard Coyne who did the FA named it "Trail of the Navajo". Any chance it could be changed to the correct name in respect of the first ascensionist and in the interest of historical accuracy?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hidden Valley : Willis Tower - Get Your Sti... (5.8 PG13)
By: jakobi When: Feb 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Mike Baker, Andy Roberts, Wilson Goodrich. May 2000
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Pickle : Standard Route (5.7 C1) : Photo
By: jakobi When: Feb 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does that guy have any idea how many climbs are named after him?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Scoopula Boulder : Wussula (V5)
By: jakobi When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Geoff Unger for building an awesome landing below the Scoopula boulder in the fall of 2011.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Isolated Climbs : Plan D (5.11)
By: jakobi When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, I edited the description per the descent info.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : North Fork
By: jakobi When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mr. Roundhead, your concern over the impact of this post is something I'm sure we could all respect. The reality is that North Fork, though a nice addition to the already rich and varied climbing scene of Moab, is not going to be a destination for climbers visiting the area. This could be attested to by anyone who actually still lives and climbs in Moab and knows that of the hundreds of published routes in the vicinity 95% of climbers come and climb at Indian Creek, Wall St., or Ice Cream Parlo... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Midnight Frightening (5.12b)
By: jakobi When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never chopped a bolt but I'd like to give it up to those individuals who sacrifice their free time; time when they could be climbing and having fun. Thanks for keeping me safe from climbing rap-bolted routes, terrorists and gay marriage.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Midnight Frightening (5.12b)
By: jakobi When: Sep 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm afraid this climb has been chopped, perhaps a victim of the ridiculous Wall St. climber feud that's been going on the last couple of years.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : T-Rex (5.11c PG13)
By: jakobi When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 3 as described definitely seemed dangerous, after climbing up and not finding good pro I down climbed and checked out the right variant described and found much more moderate terrain with decent pro. I didn't have any slider nuts, could have made it seem safe though I doubt it. This is an amazing route, even if the first 3 pitches are just okay. Pictures speak louder than words for P4, make sure you win the rochambeau and get to lead it.
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Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: jakobi When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the cruxes of the climb weigh in at no harder than 5.10, the rock was more solid than we were expecting but there was still a sense of treading through a pile of nachos in some of the sections. We linked pitches 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 7&8 with a 70m no problem and topped out the route around noon. I would recommend a second rope but only rappelling on one, the raps are cleaner that way but having another rope might be a good idea considering all the many features on the wall that could ensn... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 3... (5.10)
By: jakobi When: Mar 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joel, If I remember correctly you were calling this crag the Witches Tongue?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Will-Mento (5.10+)
By: jakobi When: Sep 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's been six years since this climb was added, I climbed it yesterday and it was still filthy. Either no one climbs it or it's in a water chute. Too bad because it's a pretty fun route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : No Excuse (5.10+)
By: jakobi When: Sep 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you walk all the way down to climb Excuse Station you might as well climb this. I thought it was really fun, much different from your average corner crack lieback-athon.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Other Mill Creek Areas : Going the Distance (5.11c)
By: jakobi When: Sep 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure Nathan Martin told me he was part of the FA.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Shelbyville
By: jakobi When: Sep 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend and I free climbed up a sandy chimney on the southern aspect of Shelbyville a couple of years back. We weren't sure where the route started and we had been drinking Wild Turkey all day so there's no telling at what grade it went at but I'd guess 5.9 tops. We topped out the first pitch at some fixed anchors and finished per the original route, so it's not necessary to aid to reach this summit.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Mt. Everest
By: jakobi When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's called K2 I believe.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Dolofright (5.11d R) : Photo
By: jakobi When: Apr 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You sure you got me Geoff?!
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