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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : Sport Utility Wall : Short Roof (5.7)
By: Jake Richens When: Mar 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are in the area it is worth sending, well portected and a short pump.
You will find this climb as you finish the scramble up the drainage and follow the switchback to the roadside part of the sport utility rock.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Unknown West of One with th... (5.7)
By: Jake Richens When: Feb 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a little bit more west you can see a killer hand and finger crack. This crack goes up almost to the top and you could end on the block/boulder that is at the top.
If it was a long approach I would claim FA - Anyone wanna claim FA??
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Fear of Gear (5.7)
By: Jake Richens When: Jul 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first all trad route, it was awesome! The beginning is a little bouldery and getting established is the hardest part, but after you get past the first 15 feet it is totally rockin. When I topped out I howled like a banchee and got a response from something...perhaps Paul Moore
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Accident at the Slips
By: Jake Richens When: Jun 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: John, my experiences with forest personnel are very biased and one sided. They seem to me like lifeguards in the wilderness, pretending to be second only to god, and in the case of storm mountain-threatening to call the authorities for not paying the access fee.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Accident at the Slips
By: Jake Richens When: Jun 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, you can walk into the slips from storm mountain however you have to pay for access........
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Accident at the Slips
By: Jake Richens When: May 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: KEN- no one in the climbing community can or should be blamed for what happened. Safety in the mountains requires knowledge, experience and awareness of one's surroundings. As we all know accidents happen in the mountains, we are so vulnerable in such a hostile environment that to stay safe one must be fully involved and aware. When entering the wilderness you must realize you are leaving this safe flat world and entering into the world that man is only able to visit and not live, for sustaining... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock : The Red Rock : Dry Socket (5.8) : Photo
By: Jake Richens When: May 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: sweet!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock : The Red Rock : Bloody Impaction (5.10a)
By: Jake Richens When: Apr 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.9+ is fair for this climb, the hardest moves are at the beginning and is eases up a lot after 20 feet.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock : The Red Rock : Third Molar Round-Up (5.8+) : Photo
By: Jake Richens When: Apr 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: you should clip two draws together for that first clip to kill some of that rope drag.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock : The Red Rock
By: Jake Richens When: Apr 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: New directions for salt lake climbers, drive down i-15 until you reach the bangeter highway turnoff, exit and turn left, follow bangeter up the hill and straight through the light that has a chevron on the corner, keep going straight when you see the red rock get ready for a left hand turn that will take you to the parking lot. The dentist made a new trail that will confuse the first timers so watch for the first trail merger and take the switch back which will lead you to a higher trail. from h... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas
By: Jake Richens When: Dec 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know if there are any climbing lines on Guert's Ridge? (Guerts is on Mt. Olympus and is the the rock that starts halfway up the mountain and goes to the top.) Guerts is only one line of many that are waiting to be climbed. Anyone have ideas, suggestions or the drive to explore??
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Stripe Rock : Cruel Shoes (5.7)
By: Jake Richens When: Oct 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: make sure to bring two ropes to decend the route. Pitch 1 is exactly 30 meters(you have to be in the corner) Pitch two is about 22, Pitch 3 is about 40. The climb is easy, but not as easy as theatre of shawdows. You will also want to scream and holla to listen to the echo's off of this massive dome and the tahitian wall/white wall, grey wall and the great wall.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock : Nitrous Oxide Boulder : The only reason to visit th... (V1)
By: Jake Richens When: Oct 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed this line because it was fairly high up on the hillside, and once I was 2 moves into the climb I felt way out there because the view of Salt Lake from the south is so vast. Most of the rock is weathered, and will take lots of cleaning to get more routes on it. There is the possibility of a couple highball problems on the north face and many moderate problems on the east.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock : The Red Rock : Cavity bones (5.10a)
By: Jake Richens When: Oct 17, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really wasn't impressed with this climb, it looked like it had potential, but the move from overhang to slab climbing is thin, crimpy and spaced. Once you get onto the face it is 5.8 climbing. The dentist placed a lone bolt inside the cave/chimney creating a variation of this climb that has potential. check it out for yourself....
- *07-06-I saw some guys doing this climb and it looks like they skipped the whole shitty part by performing a sick DYNO, so keep that in mind as your trying to roun...
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Too Much Fun (5.8)
By: Jake Richens When: Oct 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Radical climb that starts on smooth rock and changes to classic city patina. I would recomend this climb to anyone willing to give it a go.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock : The Red Rock : Third Molar Round-Up (5.8+)
By: Jake Richens When: Oct 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is definitely a 5.8, and the crux is clipping and climbing past bolt 2 and 3, clipping the third bolt requires some vision and balls but the climbing eases up after you pass that point. the body position through 2 and 3 is inverted so don't let this climb fool you if your a new comer to climbing. I can see this climb being 5.7 if you climb a little off route and back step against chimney/block. It is a way better climb than the cuspidnator but does produce a significant amount of rope... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock
By: Jake Richens When: Aug 31, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should also mention that this is the most well protected wall in the valley, and it would be wise to walk off all the routes on the right side.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock
By: Jake Richens When: Aug 30, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a worthwhile chunk of rock, the approach is only 5 minutes from the car, and there are at least 10 different sport routes, all of which can be TR'd. The quality of the rock is about the same as sport utility rock, but a little sharper. The dentist who developed the rock frequents the area a lot, he actually put in stairs(4x4's and rebar) to the top of the climb to protect your ass from the slide/scramble. There are at least 3-5.6's, 2-5.7's a 5.8 2-5.10a's and a pumpy 5.10d. Have fun and... more >>
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Paul Moore Boulder (V?)
By: Jake Richens When: Aug 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: aka the warm up boulder......bouldering utah
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Nuptial Vow (5.8)
By: Jake Richens When: Aug 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice bolts, well spaced. The second clip is nicely hung but with huge holds, but I'd advise staying about 1and a 1/2 feet to the left of the 2nd bolt to avoid some rounded edges.
#2 is a spinner
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Monogamy (5.7)
By: Jake Richens When: Aug 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts are extremely sketchy...... just don't fall if your gonna send it....
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Picturesque Wall
By: Jake Richens When: Aug 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Uinta rock book had bad beta on this climb, we took the trail that points to scout lake and followed it right at the first lake(as indicated in the book), that goes nowhere!! We followed the trail left but due to our side trip and the fact that the sun was setting we had to call off the adventure. Anyone wanna clear up the confusion?
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7)
By: Jake Richens When: Aug 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: take a compass if its your first time, this area gets really confusing for first timers. there is no way you can miss the trail to the climb, just go to the south east part of the rock and look for a trail that approaches the wall. two ropes to get off the second pitch, one for the first.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: Jake Richens When: Aug 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a climb!! 4 pitches of easy slab climbing that you could pull your grandma up, actually she'd probably have a harder time with the approach than with the climb itself. Blaze up past many bolts (16 on one pitch), around the monster roof and rap into the canyon to the south, from there walk down to the beginning. great views of the whole city.
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