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Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Belly of the Whale (5.7+)
By: Jake Jones When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The move to gain the ledge on top of the arete is interesting for an .8 The flop onto the ledge breaks up the flow of what would be a decent short route with a distinct crux. Right anchor bolt is a spinner.
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Location: Tony B : Tanzania, Kenya, China, Egy... : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I spent a lot of time in Senegal and Liberia. We took the knock-off watches we got in Naples- about a dozen of them for one American Zippo lighter, and traded them for cool carvings and beads and what not. Just souvenirs. All worth about the same, really. I'm guessing your watch was worth a little bit more though, and this young man had nothing to trade.
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Location: VA : Old Rag : Skyline Wall (PATC Wall) : Fern Crack (5.7)
By: Jake Jones When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do NOT place pro in the thin crack at the bulge 3/4 of the way up. The thin 1"-2" flake that resides in this crack will likely break or at the very least not hold pro in the event of a fall. Very hollow and loose. You could run it out- the bulge is the best part of the route, but if your piece pulls, the fall won't be entirely clean.
A better option is to place a #5 if you have it under the bulge to the right and follow the juggy traverse to a ledge- although this probably knocks thi... more >>
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Location: Mike Lane : Misc. : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Mar 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Simply not true. The Ellenor thing made me soil my breetches.
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Location: Catherine Conner : It's a "once in a blue moon... : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No forget to breathe. Very important.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Zoo View (5.7+)
By: Jake Jones When: Jan 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you would have followed the top of the cliff to climber's right, for, idk, no more than 200 ft or so, you would have found a nice comfy ledge with a small pine growing out of it. There is a set of rap anchors right there, just over the edge; on a small, left-facing wall. This location is the top of the 5.5 Sentinel Buttress route. These anchors are shared by all routes that top out on the Circus Wall and SB.
Also, no need to hike 4 miles down the back side. There's a trail that... more >>
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : ... : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Jan 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic shot!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9) : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Jan 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fantastic picture!
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Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : The Great Arch (5.5)
By: Jake Jones When: Jan 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you rap STRAIGHT down from the top of the third pitch, you'll end up to the right of Mercury's lead; I forget what the name of that route is (Rainy Day Women maybe). This is the fastest way down, and it keeps you out of the way of traffic on the Arch. I think it's just one rap down to a set of anchors (2 60m ropes needed- barely makes it) and then one more rap from the lower anchors gets you to the tree ledge. I've never done the walk off and as long as there's not a party on tha... more >>
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Location: VA : Old Rag : Middle God's Area-Left : Oh My God Dihedral (5.10c)
By: Jake Jones When: Dec 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: To reach the top, scramble down from the Ridge Trail slab facing south. To get to the base of the route, descend Bushwhack Trail and stay left. You can't miss it.
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sliding Board (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Dec 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I first saw this slab, I thought Stone Mountain in NC. Nice pic.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress : Sentinel Buttress (5.5)
By: Jake Jones When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I slung the boulder next to the rap rings at the top of the first pitch. If you do it right, you can give descenders plenty of room and still have a nice comfy belay stance.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Central Wall : Easy Hard (5.5) : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good beta pic. Thanks.
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Location: VA : Manchester Wall : Main Wall : Hooked on a Feeling (5.7+) : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks! It's kind of like a hybrid between a gym and the outdoors. All holds are basically on a vertical plane, but the texture is all granite. Good place to train, but watch your stuff.
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Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : The Great Arch (5.5)
By: Jake Jones When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The park gates don't open until 8. So if you stay in the park, get there about 7:30 and haul ass up to the tree ledge. Unless a bunch of other people have that same idea, then you should be ok and not have a line behind you when you get to the first belay station. Awesome route!
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : ... : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Nov 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I still wonder. Climbing is one of the most trivial human pursuits ever. With that being said, it's still far above dumping 20k into an 11k car to make it as fast as a 25k car. And it beats the hell out of embroidery.
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Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Photo
By: Jake Jones When: Nov 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic pic man.
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Location: VA : Manchester Wall : First Pillar : Bolts from Heaven (5.6)
By: Jake Jones When: Oct 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you use the arete and clip to the right, it's definitely not harder than 5.5. If you climb the face and clip to the left, I'd rate it a 5.7 Just an opinion. Great place for an aspiring leader to clip some bolts as they are really close together. Watch for Z clipping!
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Location: VA : Shenandoah National Park : South District : Loft Mountain : Loft Mtn Crag
By: Jake Jones When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was there last year. I actually stumbled upon the varying 60-80 ft tall cliff while hiking around on the portion of the AT that runs around the campground. Lucky for me, I had some gear with me and was able to set up a TR in a few places. Decent, but nothing to write home about. On the other hand, it was a family camping trip and I didn't really have much time to scrutinize the whole thing. It reminded me somewhat of LSM cliffs a little further north. Looked like the same kind of "greens... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : High Exposure Exit (5.6)
By: Jake Jones When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks ccmski.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Bubba City : Sandstonia : Butterfly Flake (5.7)
By: Jake Jones When: Oct 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice laybacking on the juggy flake all the way up to the anchors. This was one of my first leads and I loved it.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : High Exposure Exit (5.6)
By: Jake Jones When: Sep 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: How many feet or meters is this pitch? My madre lives in Chino Valley and I wanna check GM out the next time I'm there.
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