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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Dec 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend of mine just climbed the Kor-Ingalls route and noticed that the summit registers located in the ammunitions container are all filled out. If someone wanted to bank some karma points, throw a new logbook in your pack to leave on the summit!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Sep 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a really good pink tricam placement before you cast off into the hand traverse under the roof, one of the few inspiring gear placements on the whole route.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Jul 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The top rap station on Holy Saturday is a UV ticking time bomb wrapped around a weird chockstone. If you are up there, consider beefing up the anchor with some new webbing or re-evaluating the anchor altogether.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Angle of Repose (5.11d)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Mar 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to back Bob up on this. Have you ever read The Gathering of Zion or Mormon Country? Wallace Stegner is a superb author!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Mr. Natural (5.8+)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Aug 24, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since when is doing a route in a unique style a bad thing? I had a fine time! It's not always about climbing hard, it's also about having fun. I suppose the fellow who ascended the third flatiron in roller skates should get chewed out as well, eh? The third has also seen no hands ascents and naked ascents. Perhaps you, anonymous coward, need to quit wearing your panties so tight. Relax and enjoy your climbing!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Jul 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: If the top of P1 is done using the OW, the climb feels a bit stiffer than 10a. There is a small section of hand crack in the back and a nice left foot behind you (if done left side in), chicken winging is also an option. I managed a good chest/fist jam which resulted in a bruised sternum. Good rainy day fun for the stemming impaired.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Mr. Natural (5.8+)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Jul 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lovely line. Difficult to do naked in the rain while being gooned by 2 Brits.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Jun 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of Memorial Day 2004, there is still a dead thing lodged in the upper (5.9 variation) hand crack. Don't think about it too much when you are palming bird shit and then sticking gear/the rope in your mouth!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Orange Julius (5.10a R)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: May 24, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware getting your rope stuck after exiting out the roof on P1! You can sling a rabbit runner out on the leftmost lip of the roof and run the rope through that to prevent having to use your nut tool to unstick your hopelessly pinched rope (as we did). This route is a nice little head game. The chimney pitch was a bit of a grunt fest.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Left Side (5.9+)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Mar 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also forgot to add that if you rap from the chains at the end of P3, you must finesse your touchdown, as our 60m rope barely got us to the scary tilted ramp below, after rapping through nothing but air for the last 20 ft or so. The rap after that is over much loose rock!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Left Side (5.9+)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Mar 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 3.26.04, there was a fixed #1 BD cam at the crux move on the black groove. I found a #3 to be adequate pro above the fixed piece. Lots of fun and zoo-like in quality, with all the Boulder Falls tourons pointing at us.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.9+)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Mar 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.6 traverses can be so hairy when they are run out and the wind is ripping! I headed straight up and clipped the 2 pins on hair city and then moved left which is a great way to go if you are a chicken. The 5.9 offwidth/chimney pitch was sweet, no offwidth technique needed if you lieback. P2 is great for rebirth therapy.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Sep 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree that the start is the crux. If you have smaller fingers, the start is no problem. Just poke in a yellow alien and go. Farther up when the crack widens is where the real fun is for smaller folk. Very sustained and a bit of a grovel if you have no endurance!!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Hot Licks (5.9)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Aug 25, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The following are mandatory for doing Hot Licks:
1. #5 Camalot. 2. Swedish belayer
With both of these in your arsenal, you will send, no problem. Not a lot of pure offwidth technique, as the numerous crystals on the right face and within the right crack allow for quasi-face moves. You just hump your way up the "arete" that is formed by the right side of the wide crack.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Aug 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spanked a #5 Camalot in down low, then a #3 at the constriction. There are really only two placements on the crux pitch of this classic beauty.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Jul 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! The 5.9 traverse with no gear takes ovaries of steel! Next time I would opt to aid the headwall. WHAT A SPLENDID ROUTE.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Jul 25, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: THIN! I got a couple questionable micro stoppers in and then an HB offset up high, none of which I trusted. Some RPs would have changed the flavor of the climb considerably. A good route to do when it rains as it is gently overhanging.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Crack of Desperation (5.10a)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Jul 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the roof to be particularly stiff for the grade, especially compared to the so-called 5.10a start up "That's Weak". Unable to employ stemming/layback technique, I resorted to wedging myself into the great crack...quite a grovel. Typical old school but definitely classic!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Darkness 'til Dawn (5.10-)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Jun 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a quality route, consistent for its grade. However, going slightly left at the start, rather than getting right into the big crack is recommended as it is the HANTA VIRUS HIGHWAY. Serious amounts of animal poop in there....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: May 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route yesterday (5.20.03). Someone has added 2 stoppers to the somewhat manky pin/knotted webbing anchor.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : S&M (5.7)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Jan 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Word. I found this pile of choss to be rather disapointing. It makes me wonder about the criteria used when doling out stars.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Bone Home (5.11a)
By: Jackie Blumberg When: Aug 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: To clarify, Bone Home carries a soft grade. I do not consider myself a 5.11 climber yet experienced little difficulty with the bomber hand jams this route offers. It is a bolted crack that could easily take gear. Ridiculous.
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