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Member Since: Jun 28, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Jack Sparrow


Point Rank: # 995
Total Points: 590
Last Year: 573
Last 30 Days: 375
3 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (857) | Routes (42) | Areas (7) | Photos (3) | Comments (50) | Posts (66) | Stars (391) | Ratings (298)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Left El Shinto (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: This route warrants the 12c grade the crux is at the start thin and technical and the upper half has good rests but still packs a punch. Center Shinto might be pumpier but the crux moves are significantly easier than this. How someone can rate this 12a is beyond me especially when comparing to other ten sleep routes, I guess they must be eldo climbers. This would be 12a if you skipped the first four bolts and only climbed the upper half. regardless of the grade its one of the most beautiful line... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Great shot. This pic makes the route look like a 13.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: A little slice of Rifle for the Front Range, polished, slopey, and slippery defines climbing here. If ya dig Rifle, you will probably like it. Personally I hate climbing in Rifle, so this place kind of sucked. Might of been good for the first thousand people that climbed here.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: How easy is it to find partners in siurana, margelef, rodellar or terradets. Is the scene kind of like Thailand or potrero were you can go solo and meet climbing partners fairly easy. Are the campgrounds community based were everyone hangs out together or do most people stick to themselves. I really want to do an extended trip to northern Spain but don't have a motivated partner to go with. Any info is appreciated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Joy Ride (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 1, 2013

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Comments: This route is way hard for me. Usually I can do 12b in a day yet I've worked this route probably four days and have yet to do the crux. I would argue that Lucid Dreaming and amazing face both classic 12+ have an easier crux than this, but maybe I just have shitty footwork. Nonetheless, this climb is fantastic and a must do for Boulder Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : The Fifth World (5.12b/c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: This climb is awesome with a very cool, bouldery crux. Beta alert: for the crux sequence, everyone I've seen climb this does a very big throw to a lieback pinch that is very bad until you position correctly. I've never been able to do this move that way. I hit the good, sloped, right hand crimp left hand on sloper. I then bump left hand to a hidden crimp undercling, right hand goes to a flat sidepull. Then I bring my left foot way high to a hellhook just under left hand. I then statically cross ... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Central City area : ... : Nine Lives Arete (V5)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This is a cool problem. I don't boulder much, so the grade felt like the crux of a 12b or c which would put it around V4 or 5.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Heavy Weather (5.12a/b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This climb is magnificent potentially one of the best routes I've ever done. The moves are super fun, and the rock is great. On a side note, to compare this and Pay Homage at crumblewood is ludacris. Pay Homage is a sharp, shitty chosspile of a route. Whereas Heavy Weather is absolutely stunning with great rock. The moves on both were slightly similar, but the rock quality and lack of sharp as shit holds is what makes this route a classic and Pay Homage a pile.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Vulture Walls : Pay Homage (5.12a/b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This is the first route I climbed at crumblewood, and it was so sharp it took away from the moves. Maybe if the rock was at all quality this climb could be good. For now it's sharp as shit and super crumbly. If this is the best crumblewood has to offer, then I've seen enough. The bouldering though is fantastic.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Lockdown (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: This is a great route with a hard bouldery crux at bolts 2-4. I thought the crux moves by themselves would be a V5 boulder problem. The rest of the route is about 11b/c. I think this route warrants the 12c grade. Grades aside, the route is a classic and should get climbed more.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Crank Du Jour (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: This is an anti-classic, sketchy first clip; really bad rock; scrunched, painful, awkward crux; and a huge loose block you have to stand on to clip anchors. I'd give it negative stars if I could. Blood Monkey is significantly better.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Blood Monkey (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: 12b for sure nice route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Jackpot (5.11d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: This is a great line up a nice headwall. Either way is legit, straight up felt way hard for 12b I think at least 12c. If you cut left, it's mid-5.11. Not sure were the 5.10 rating is coming from, maybe Leo is a Gunks or Eldo climber. Even so, mid-11 is on par with other routes in Clear Creek.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Blue Fin (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: This route is cleaning up nicely and after the second bolt the rock quality drastically improves overall a good route.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : XL Puff Sneaker (5.11d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: U guys are not correct


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : The Curse (of the Furry Bea... (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: 11c would be an old school rating but for the new school of grading were 5.15 exists and all new crags are graded by, 12a for sure. The crux moves are a v3 or 4 boulder problem with technical moves. Great rock on this one for sure.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Institutional Meat (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: This route is good, but the anchors need replacement. Both are very loose, and and the whole bolt is pulling out of wall on right one. Use caution at the anchors.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Pleasure By Ambush (V6-7)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: This problem is very contrived if you start left hand on the better of the two edges then right hand on crimpy undercling 6 inches right of left hand crimp and then pull on, this problem feels much easier than V6 and is more enjoyable this way.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchy Rules (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: 11d, I call BS. The useless anonymous coward strikes again for the downgrade. Even in ELDO!!! this route would be 12-, in Boulder Canyon 12d. in the Gunks 9+, Red River Gorge 12c. Downgraders be damned!!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Upper Y Traverse : Upper Y Traverse (V3)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: Bouldering at Flag is all about contrived hard moves, "don't grab that jug in front of yer face, use the half pad crimp, then it's truly V4 not V0 with the jug" or "the V2 rating only appplies if you climb it one handed". Bouldering is game of contrivances: how hard can I pull two inches off the ground and what amazing holds will I avoid to create my 2 move V10 lowball masterpiece, and then when someone repeats it, I can inform them how all the good holds are off if you use the good holds it's o... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : ... : Culo De Negra (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: This route is potentially the best climb i have ever done in any style or grade. Absolutely amazing climbing up wild blue rock and crazy tufas.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Piles of Trials (5.12b/c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 3, 2012

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Comments: This route is super good, you must do the dyno. It's amazing and may be one of the sickest moves I've done on a Boulder area climb. Also, maybe it's just me, but I stuck the dyno my first try but could not link the moves after, and they are turning out to be the crux for me. Anyone have beta they want to share?


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: There are two anchors on this climb, does this route stop at the first or second anchors?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : The Girlfriend Traverse (V4)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know what the problem is that goes right to left and finishes around the arete?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 14, 2012

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Comments: Definitively 12a, no doubt about it, but every route in Boulder Canyon has to be downgraded by someone.


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