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Member Since: Jun 28, 2010
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 964
Total Points: 652
Last Year: 538
Last 30 Days: 1
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jack Sparrow been climbing?










Contributions


All 1025 | Routes 47 | Areas 7 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 57 | Posts 87 | Stars 464 | Ratings 359
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : The Honeymoon Is Over (5.13b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for putting this up. Looks awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Got on this today, and I think it's a great line. I climbed to the right of the bolts then traversed to a good horn on the arÍte. I think 12d is a fair grade for it. Overall, a very aesthetic climb with great moves and an awesome position. Classic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Resonator (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: This is a nice climb, but if what Matt B says is true, that after you pull the first crux, the line originally finished in the corner at 12d. I think it's quite a bummer someone came and added bolts up the face, we have taken a 3 star 12d and turned it into a contrived but good 13a (Bo Can has plenty of these climbs already). I have a really hard time forcing myself onto the face when the easiest most obvious line climbs at 12d. Overall, a good climb and pretty steep for Boulder Canyon.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Soap on a Rope (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Stellar route I can't believe this went in so recently. Great rock with technical climbing on crimps that culminates with an awesome move to a bucket. Classic one of the better pitches in Clear Creek, IMHO.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Momentary Lack of Resin (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: A fantastic climb, this is the route of Lime Creek. Really nice, colorful rock on this. The climb has a great rhythm to it. Fire through a burly, reachy boulder problem on perfect crimps to a good rest. Then you have a section of exciting powerful climbing to the anchors. I think calling this 12b is a sandbag for Lime Creek. 12+ felt more like it to me. If you're very tall and strong on crimps, it could feel easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Ha, that's funny Patrick. You're the only other person I 've heard uses that beta other than myself and I've seen lots of people on the finish. That finger lock becomes extra good with the perfect amount of tape on the ring finger you could almost shake out on it. Stellar climb anyway you do it.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: He, E. Johnson, it is not listed on Mountain Project. I haven't been able to find any info on who put up the climbs or what the crag is called. Some of the routes are decent for Lime Creek though.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Super Barnacle (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Just got on this route. It is definitely not cleaning up. None of the feet are usable, they just keep scraping off. Ended up bailing due to the horrendously chossy nature of the rock. If you want to climb this route, bring a very big brush.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : ... : Codyote (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: For sure Mark I've heard great things about that area. Thanks for all your hard work developing it I'm sure it's amazing.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : ... : Ungabunga (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: This route is absolutely stunning. One of the best climbs I've ever done. The grading is a little confusing though cause its 13a in guidebook, the main developers topo says 12b and the locals say 12+. Who knows probably 13a in colorado were I climb. But 12+ anywere else, feels significantly harder than body grooving a 12c in the area.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : ... : Codyote (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Holds have broken on this and the grade is no longer 11d but closer to 12b. A very nice route as well


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Job Disgraced (5.13a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: The start is very sketchy and you should have a no fall mentality until your standing on the ledge. Just a heads up to anyone trying this route


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c) : Photo
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: This pic doesn't do the route justice, it makes it look like he's cruising an easy slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Frothing Green (5.11a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Really, guys, 5.10? Must have been way off route.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Pinch Fest (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: This route is disgustingly polished and greasy, I was climbing this route when it was 35 degrees in the shade and it was still the slickest thing I've ever touched. The best jug on the route I can barely hold without pumping out due to the greasy rock. It's like climbing up an ice route without crampons or axes. Major props to anyone who can send this.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Problem Child (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: This is a rad climb. Definitely the best on The Pass that I've done. Stacked with difficult boulder problems and nice rests, it climbs a big, inspiring overhang. Might be one of the better routes in Colorado for the grade.


Location: Step hen : Front Ranging : Photo
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: wat route is this. sick photo


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Wall of Voodoo : Porch Monkey (5.12a/b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: This felt 12b/c to me as well. It's listed as this in both guidebooks. When you compare this route to the other route a 12a/b in the guide, this route is significantly harder. Also I don't think Dan climbed this, what rests are you talking about and what crack do you grab, doesn't sound like the same route to me. It sounds like the route down the hill that starts on a ledge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Buzz (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I love how all strong climbers compare everything to Rifle, which is kinda bs because Rifle is known for being funky, sandbagged, hard to read sequences and being just plain weird. Remember you're climbing in Boulder Canyon, home of soft, straightforward climbing. It seems stupid to compare the two. Maybe we should compare all of BC to The Gunks, in that case this route is only 5.10.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: This is a truly amazing climb and one of the best at Dude's. Lots of variety and cool sequences, make this an ultra classic. The bolting is perfect, and the line climbs really well. As far as the grade is concerned, I think there are no 13 moves on it, but with three distinct sections of 12+ climbing with no rest between, 13a is not a stretch.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: I've added a couple routes and an area to the database. I have no idea what there names are or who did them. I'm adding them on Mountainnproject for a more complete picture of Lime Creek today. If the developer of these climbs and area sees this and wants to help make the info correct, just pm me and I will change it. I'm adding these routes specifically because the guidebook for Lime Creek is no longer in print, and the new addition has not come out yet, so any info on the area is limited toMou... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : Strategery Wall : Un-named 01 (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: This is a good route with very fun moves over a roof. Mid way after the under clings I traversed a little right into a corner and stemmed for two moves then went back on face. I think if you climbed the face direct it would be pretty solid 12c. I tried the straight up way with my partner a couple times and neither of us could do the moves. We are both very solid at the 12a grade and no way is direct up the face 12a. I think it still feels 12a if you use the corner out right, and this doesn't eve... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Blackout (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: I love how all strong climbers compare everything to Rifle. Which is kinda bs because Rifle is known for being funky, sandbagged, hard to read sequences and being just plain weird. Remember you're climbing in Boulder Canyon, home of soft, straightforward climbing. It seems stupid to compare the two. Maybe we should compare all of BC to The Gunks, in that case this route is only 5.10.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Cash in the Vault (5.13a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: So, I assume Will bolted this route, since he seems to know what's on and what's not. Crack on the left is fair game in my book.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: I don't understand contrived lines. The holds I used were two feet to the left of the bolts (certainly not off route), and set me up with a left hand crimp in a runnel and a big throw to the shelf with your feet on the face. This is the efficient way to climb it, doing anything else is just climbing with bad beta. Forcing routes to be harder than they are is contrived and is more like bouldering. The beauty of route climbing is figuring out the easiest most efficient way to the top of the wall. ... more >>


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