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Member Since: Jun 28, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 949
Total Points: 644
Last Year: 569
Last 30 Days: 5
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jack Sparrow been climbing?










Contributions


All 945 | Routes 47 | Areas 7 | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 54 | Posts 71 | Stars 435 | Ratings 328
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : Strategery Wall : Un-named 01 (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: This is a good route with very fun moves over a roof. Mid way after the under clings I traversed a little right into a corner and stemmed for two moves then went back on face. I think if you climbed the face direct it would be pretty solid 12c. I tried the straight up way with my partner a couple times and neither of us could do the moves. We are both very solid at the 12a grade and no way is direct up the face 12a. I think it still feels 12a if you use the corner out right, and this doesn't eve... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Blackout (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: I love how all strong climbers compare everything to Rifle. Which is kinda bs because Rifle is known for being funky, sandbagged, hard to read sequences and being just plain weird. Remember you're climbing in Boulder Canyon, home of soft, straightforward climbing. It seems stupid to compare the two. Maybe we should compare all of BC to The Gunks, in that case this route is only 5.10.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Cash in the Vault (5.13a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: So, I assume Will bolted this route, since he seems to know what's on and what's not. Crack on the left is fair game in my book.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: I don't understand contrived lines. The holds I used were two feet to the left of the bolts (certainly not off route), and set me up with a left hand crimp in a runnel and a big throw to the shelf with your feet on the face. This is the efficient way to climb it, doing anything else is just climbing with bad beta. Forcing routes to be harder than they are is contrived and is more like bouldering. The beauty of route climbing is figuring out the easiest most efficient way to the top of the wall. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Pinche Guey (5.12-)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: This is a surprisingly good route at a relatively obscure crag. The moves over the roof are super fun and a little cryptic at first. I didn't find any knee-bars in the roof, but I suck at that. I did a huge power move off the undercling to snag the jug at the lip. Without the trickery, I thought this route felt about 12b/c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Sweet NiBLitz (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: I don't know about this route, the opening boulder problem is sharp, cryptic, and really hard for me. The moves aren't really cool but just hard. I think calling this 12d is a stretch, it feels significantly harder than most I've done. After the second bolt, the rock quality decreases, but the climbing gets better. I'd avoid this route till you have sent everything at The Slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: The second half of this climb is confusing. From the ledge, I saw three options: 1. climb straight up the bolted face above the ledge; 2. climb the hand crack to the left of the bolts to its own anchor, this is what the guidebook says to do; 3. climb the corner on the right and reach over and clip. The upper part is weird with a lot of options. It might be a better route if it stopped at the first anchor. Also stemming into the corner on the first half is the smart way to c... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Whiny Baby Wall : The Cloud Peak Vista Traver... (5.11a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: this climb is super classic and needs a route description. Climb slightly overhanging rock on jugs to a crux bulge at the top. 4 stars


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c/d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: Amazing route and one of the best I've done in a long time. The climb is super well protected, exposed and pumpy. The crux is definitley a height-dependent move. I sent through both cruxes my second try and fell off on the 11 move after both cruxes. It's a very pumpy route on redpoint. Highly recommended, I think it is significantly better than The Shaft as well.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: Valid points, but if you fell with your body at the third bolt, you would defidently hit the ground unless your belayer ran back. I took the fall a few moves after the second bolt and was coming close to the ground, that was my only point. I'm not saying to rebolt it, but just to feel solid before committing to those moves and even though the climbing is easier than the crux, the moves are still 11+.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: This route is super classic and one of the best I did at The Pass. Getting to the third bolt is pretty sketchy, and you would come pretty close to the ground if you fell. I think it's unfortunate that it was bolted like that, because the climbing is fantastic. I don't know why the mentality of old school climbers were to bolt routes so you would deck from 40 feet up. Sport climbing should be safe, and this route is not. Regardless, I think if you could have a huge runner hanging from the third b... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : Cookie Puss (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: This has a really cool crux move on this. Unfortunately the rock is pretty bad. If it was climbed more and cleaned up, it would be classic for sure.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Great shot. This pic makes the route look like a 13.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: A little slice of Rifle for the Front Range, polished, slopey, and slippery defines climbing here. If ya dig Rifle, you will probably like it. Personally I hate climbing in Rifle, so this place kind of sucked. Might of been good for the first thousand people that climbed here.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: How easy is it to find partners in siurana, margelef, rodellar or terradets. Is the scene kind of like Thailand or potrero were you can go solo and meet climbing partners fairly easy. Are the campgrounds community based were everyone hangs out together or do most people stick to themselves. I really want to do an extended trip to northern Spain but don't have a motivated partner to go with. Any info is appreciated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Joy Ride (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 1, 2013

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Comments: This route is way hard for me. Usually I can do 12b in a day yet I've worked this route probably four days and have yet to do the crux. I would argue that Lucid Dreaming and amazing face both classic 12+ have an easier crux than this, but maybe I just have shitty footwork. Nonetheless, this climb is fantastic and a must do for Boulder Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : The Fifth World (5.12b/c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: This climb is awesome with a very cool, bouldery crux. Beta alert: for the crux sequence, everyone I've seen climb this does a very big throw to a lieback pinch that is very bad until you position correctly. I've never been able to do this move that way. I hit the good, sloped, right hand crimp left hand on sloper. I then bump left hand to a hidden crimp undercling, right hand goes to a flat sidepull. Then I bring my left foot way high to a hellhook just under left hand. I then statically cross ... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Central City area : ... : Nine Lives Arete (V5)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This is a cool problem. I don't boulder much, so the grade felt like the crux of a 12b or c which would put it around V4 or 5.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Heavy Weather (5.12a/b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This climb is magnificent potentially one of the best routes I've ever done. The moves are super fun, and the rock is great. On a side note, to compare this and Pay Homage at crumblewood is ludacris. Pay Homage is a sharp, shitty chosspile of a route. Whereas Heavy Weather is absolutely stunning with great rock. The moves on both were slightly similar, but the rock quality and lack of sharp as shit holds is what makes this route a classic and Pay Homage a pile.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Vulture Walls : Pay Homage (5.12a/b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This is the first route I climbed at crumblewood, and it was so sharp it took away from the moves. Maybe if the rock was at all quality this climb could be good. For now it's sharp as shit and super crumbly. If this is the best crumblewood has to offer, then I've seen enough. The bouldering though is fantastic.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Lockdown (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: This is a great route with a hard bouldery crux at bolts 2-4. I thought the crux moves by themselves would be a V5 boulder problem. The rest of the route is about 11b/c. I think this route warrants the 12c grade. Grades aside, the route is a classic and should get climbed more.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Crank Du Jour (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: This is an anti-classic, sketchy first clip; really bad rock; scrunched, painful, awkward crux; and a huge loose block you have to stand on to clip anchors. I'd give it negative stars if I could. Blood Monkey is significantly better.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Blood Monkey (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: 12b for sure nice route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Jackpot (5.11d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: This is a great line up a nice headwall. Either way is legit, straight up felt way hard for 12b I think at least 12c. If you cut left, it's mid-5.11. Not sure were the 5.10 rating is coming from, maybe Leo is a Gunks or Eldo climber. Even so, mid-11 is on par with other routes in Clear Creek.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Blue Fin (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: This route is cleaning up nicely and after the second bolt the rock quality drastically improves overall a good route.


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