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Member Since: Jun 28, 2010
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Jack Sparrow


Point Rank: # 928
Total Points: 708
Last Year: 567
Last 30 Days: 31
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jack Sparrow been climbing?










Contributions


All 1091 | Routes 52 | Areas 7 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 89 | Stars 498 | Ratings 378
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Raining Ice Picks

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Rusty Cage

Jun 15, 2013

la violencia

5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

North America : Mexico : ... : Tecolote Cave

Jun 1, 2013

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Boulder del jon A through d

Europe : Spain : ... : Rodellar

Apr 22, 2014

Laperne

Europe : Spain : ... : Rodellar

Apr 16, 2014

el falco

Europe : Spain : ... : arboli

Apr 15, 2014

arboli

Europe : Spain : Catalonia

Apr 15, 2014

can toni gros

Europe : Spain : ... : Village Crags

Apr 15, 2014

cingles del moli

Europe : Spain : ... : Margalef

Apr 15, 2014

el totxo d'en fredi

Europe : Spain : ... : Margalef

Apr 15, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Exiting the 2nd crux.

Exiting the 2nd crux.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Sinopia (5.13a)

Aug 8, 2014

at the sit down rest on the send

at the sit down rest on the send

North America : Mexico : ... : la violencia (5.13a/b)

Jun 1, 2013

Dani Andrada onsighting la violencia the 13b way

Dani Andrada onsighting la violencia the 13b way

North America : Mexico : ... : la violencia (5.13a/b)

Jun 1, 2013

Working the crux moves on Lucid.

Working the crux moves on Lucid.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)

Dec 22, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Rain of Gold (5.13b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: This is a sweet route. One of the better hard pitches in the potrero. It looks completely impossible from the ground but there are decent holds the whole way. Great rock, amazing face climbing on positive pockets and crimps. The route would go at 12+ if it wasn't for the vicious boulder problem mid way. Think tiny pockets and a very high foot. I think it climbs better than weeping Jesus but not nearly as popular.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Devil's Cabana Boy (5.13-)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: The second pitch of this route has to be one of the greatest climbs on earth. The movement is outrageously cool, be thinking epic flags and drop knees with huge tufas and underclings. Crux near the belay and a redpoint crux exiting the tufa chandelier. The exposure is heroic on this as well. It's a lot like celestial omnibus only more tufas and longer. The only downside to this route is some of the tufas are a little dirty. I don't think this pitch gets climbed much which is unfortunate because ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : El Hoyito (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a VERY unique route. I felt like I was climbing a wall of porcelain no friction at all. Very different for potrero not many positive holds after the crux. Felt a bit like slippery down under only a lot harder. This is called 11c/d in Eds guidebook and its complete bs this route is without a doubt 12a. One of the most unique rock climbs I've ever been on. Stellar


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer Review (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: Drew, are you trolling? Saying this route has good feet is kind of ridiculous, and just 'cause you're taller certainly doesn't make this move that much easier. An OS would be proud. I would argue that Ten Digit Dialing is slightly easier and Balkan Dirt Diving is significantly easier.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 4, 2014

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Comments: This is probably one of the best hard twelves at Shelf. Usually at this grade, the holds are very small and sharp where a high pain tolerance is necessary. This is not the case on the French are here, the crux holds are amazing not sharp or even that small. It's a little steeper than the average Shelf route too. The only downside for me is the old school bolting, clipping the fourth bolt when your pumped on point is very exciting. I would not want to fall with clipping slack out. Overall, an ama... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Fapanese Direct (5.12)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: Wow what a good route. I can't believe it took me so long to finally get on it. A top notch route for Boulder Canyon. The roof felt improbable to me till I had the right beta. I've seen many climbers on this, and everyone does the roof differently. After the roof pull is another cruxy move, but it's nowhere near as hard as the roof. Then awesome sustained 5.11 to the top in one of the best positions in Boulder Canyon. Grade felt right on at 12c/d. I thought it was a touch easier than Earth Angel... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : The Honeymoon Is Over (5.13b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for putting this up. Looks awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Got on this today, and I think it's a great line. I climbed to the right of the bolts then traversed to a good horn on the arÍte. I think 12d is a fair grade for it. Overall, a very aesthetic climb with great moves and an awesome position. Classic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Resonator (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: This is a nice climb, but if what Matt B says is true, that after you pull the first crux, the line originally finished in the corner at 12d. I think it's quite a bummer someone came and added bolts up the face, we have taken a decent 12d and turned it into a contrived but good 13a (Bo Can has plenty of these climbs already). I have a really hard time forcing myself onto the face when the easiest most obvious line climbs at 12d. Overall, a good climb and pretty steep for Boulder Canyon.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Soap on a Rope (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Stellar route I can't believe this went in so recently. Great rock with technical climbing on crimps that culminates with an awesome move to a bucket. Classic one of the better pitches in Clear Creek, IMHO.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Momentary Lack of Resin (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: A fantastic climb, this is the route of Lime Creek. Really nice, colorful rock on this. The climb has a great rhythm to it. Fire through a burly, reachy boulder problem on perfect crimps to a good rest. Then you have a section of exciting powerful climbing to the anchors. I think calling this 12b is a sandbag for Lime Creek. 12+ felt more like it to me. If you're very tall and strong on crimps, it could feel easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Ha, that's funny Patrick. You're the only other person I 've heard uses that beta other than myself and I've seen lots of people on the finish. That finger lock becomes extra good with the perfect amount of tape on the ring finger you could almost shake out on it. Stellar climb anyway you do it.


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