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Member Since: Jun 28, 2010
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Jack Sparrow


Point Rank: # 925
Total Points: 740
Last Year: 526
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1132 | Routes 54 | Areas 7 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 65 | Posts 88 | Stars 526 | Ratings 388
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Blue Route 1

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 30'

CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : ... : The Punchbowl

Sep 27, 2013

Mutant Overload

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b (2)

Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Upper Wall

Jul 9, 2013

Raining Ice Picks

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Rusty Cage

Jun 15, 2013

la violencia

5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

North America : Mexico : ... : Tecolote Cave

Jun 1, 2013

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Boulder del jon A through d

Europe : Spain : ... : Rodellar

Apr 22, 2014

Laperne

Europe : Spain : ... : Rodellar

Apr 16, 2014

el falco

Europe : Spain : ... : arboli

Apr 15, 2014

arboli

Europe : Spain : Catalonia

Apr 15, 2014

can toni gros

Europe : Spain : ... : Village Crags

Apr 15, 2014

cingles del moli

Europe : Spain : ... : Margalef

Apr 15, 2014

el totxo d'en fredi

Europe : Spain : ... : Margalef

Apr 15, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Exiting the 2nd crux.

Exiting the 2nd crux.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Sinopia (5.13a)

Aug 8, 2014

at the sit down rest on the send

at the sit down rest on the send

North America : Mexico : ... : la violencia (5.13a/b)

Jun 1, 2013

Dani Andrada onsighting la violencia the 13b way

Dani Andrada onsighting la violencia the 13b way

North America : Mexico : ... : la violencia (5.13a/b)

Jun 1, 2013

Working the crux moves on Lucid.

Working the crux moves on Lucid.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)

Dec 22, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: So I've redpointed Wet Dream, Animal Riots Activist, The Devil, and Strange Science. I still think all those routes were easier for me as they took me between 2 and 5 tries, compared to ten on this. Been on constant Gardner, it feels harder than this, same with Joy Ride. It's probably not 12b, but I don't think it's 5.11 on the Boulder Canyon grading scale. Like I said, could just be a nemesis route for me, but I have a hard time taking 11b/c. Regardless of the grade, it's a great piece of ston... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Train4life, I will respectfully disagree with you. Could have been my personal experience with the climb, but the one move on this merits the 12a rating in my opinion. My beta involved a horrible left foot and a left hand cross to a small crystal crimp that you needed to lean in on to reach a good right hand. For me, when I compare this sequence to every other classic 12- in Boulder Canyon, it holds its grade. I'm comparing to routes like Empire of the Fenceless, Lucky Strikes, The Good The ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Rain of Gold (5.13b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a sweet route. One of the better hard pitches in the potrero. It looks completely impossible from the ground but there are decent holds the whole way. Great rock, amazing face climbing on positive pockets and crimps. The route would go at 12+ if it wasn't for the vicious boulder problem mid way. Think tiny pockets and a very high foot. I think it climbs better than weeping Jesus but not nearly as popular.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Devil's Cabana Boy (5.13-)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The second pitch of this route has to be one of the greatest climbs on earth. The movement is outrageously cool, be thinking epic flags and drop knees with huge tufas and underclings. Crux near the belay and a redpoint crux exiting the tufa chandelier. The exposure is heroic on this as well. It's a lot like celestial omnibus only more tufas and longer. The only downside to this route is some of the tufas are a little dirty. I don't think this pitch gets climbed much which is unfortunate because ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : El Hoyito (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a VERY unique route. I felt like I was climbing a wall of porcelain no friction at all. Very different for potrero not many positive holds after the crux. Felt a bit like slippery down under only a lot harder. This is called 11c/d in Eds guidebook and its complete bs this route is without a doubt 12a. One of the most unique rock climbs I've ever been on. Stellar


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer Review (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Drew, are you trolling? Saying this route has good feet is kind of ridiculous, and just 'cause you're taller certainly doesn't make this move that much easier. An OS would be proud. I would argue that Ten Digit Dialing is slightly easier and Balkan Dirt Diving is significantly easier.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 4, 2014

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Comments: This is probably one of the best hard twelves at Shelf. Usually at this grade, the holds are very small and sharp where a high pain tolerance is necessary. This is not the case on the French are here, the crux holds are amazing not sharp or even that small. It's a little steeper than the average Shelf route too. The only downside for me is the old school bolting, clipping the fourth bolt when your pumped on point is very exciting. I would not want to fall with clipping slack out. Overall, an ama... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Fapanese Direct (5.12)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wow what a good route. I can't believe it took me so long to finally get on it. A top notch route for Boulder Canyon. The roof felt improbable to me till I had the right beta. I've seen many climbers on this, and everyone does the roof differently. After the roof pull is another cruxy move, but it's nowhere near as hard as the roof. Then awesome sustained 5.11 to the top in one of the best positions in Boulder Canyon. Grade felt right on at 12c/d. I thought it was a touch easier than Earth Angel... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : The Honeymoon Is Over (5.13b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for putting this up. Looks awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Got on this today, and I think it's a great line. I climbed to the right of the bolts then traversed to a good horn on the arÍte. I think 12d is a fair grade for it. Overall, a very aesthetic climb with great moves and an awesome position. Classic.


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