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Member Since: Jun 28, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Jack Sparrow

Point Rank: # 702
Total Points: 1,042
Last Year: 344
Last 30 Days: 209
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jack Sparrow been climbing?










Contributions


All 1255 | Routes 88 | Areas 8 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 72 | Posts 88 | Stars 595 | Ratings 400
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Kullin : Brandia rosa (5.10d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 27, 2016

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Comments: A not so great warm up that follows a big flake to a thin dihedral enjoy using two sharp monos for clips. The moderates in this area are seriously lacking in quality.


Location: Europe : Turkey : Olympos : Cennet (Jennet) : Bittersweet (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Nice vertical route with a crimp crux down low to a hard move up high finishes on some grovelly five ten climbing. Some of the rock is a little fragile. Take in the view at the top pretty awesome.


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Alabalik (Salmon) : Alabalik : Akintiya karsi yuzmek (5.11)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Climb up to a tufa then follow a system of crimps up the face. Beautiful and sustained climbing the whole way


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Trabenna West Right : Diplomarbit (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: A great technical climb with lots of slopers crimps and intriguing body positions. Crux towards the top perfect rock with powerful techy moves


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Super Slab (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 18, 2015

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Comments: After trying most of the classic routes in the red up to 13a, this one takes the cake for my favorite rock climb in the gorge and maybe of all time. Stunning rock with perfect beautiful technical climbing the whole way. I dont think climbing gets any better than this. Save it for good temps it's much better with good friction.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Mercy the Huff (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: Absolutely stunning rock climb. The five ten finish is frustratingly hard on point.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Buckeye Buttress : Stain (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: This has some of the best movement ive found anywere, incredible.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: So I've redpointed Wet Dream, Animal Riots Activist, The Devil, and Strange Science. I still think all those routes were easier for me as they took me between 2 and 5 tries, compared to ten on this. Been on constant Gardner, it feels harder than this, same with Joy Ride. It's probably not 12b, but I don't think it's 5.11 on the Boulder Canyon grading scale. Like I said, could just be a nemesis route for me, but I have a hard time taking 11b/c. Regardless of the grade, it's a great piece of ston... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: Hey Train4life, I will respectfully disagree with you. Could have been my personal experience with the climb, but the one move on this merits the 12a rating in my opinion. My beta involved a horrible left foot and a left hand cross to a small crystal crimp that you needed to lean in on to reach a good right hand. For me, when I compare this sequence to every other classic 12- in Boulder Canyon, it holds its grade. I'm comparing to routes like Empire of the Fenceless, Lucky Strikes, The Good The ... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Upper Sense of Religion : ... : Rain of Gold (5.13b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: This is a sweet route. One of the better hard pitches in the potrero. It looks completely impossible from the ground but there are decent holds the whole way. Great rock, amazing face climbing on positive pockets and crimps. The route would go at 12+ if it wasn't for the vicious boulder problem mid way. Think tiny pockets and a very high foot. I think it climbs better than weeping Jesus but not nearly as popular.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall : Devil's Cabaña Boy (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: The second pitch of this route has to be one of the greatest climbs on earth. The movement is outrageously cool, be thinking epic flags and drop knees with huge tufas and underclings. Crux near the belay and a redpoint crux exiting the tufa chandelier. The exposure is heroic on this as well. It's a lot like celestial omnibus only more tufas and longer. The only downside to this route is some of the tufas are a little dirty. I don't think this pitch gets climbed much which is unfortunate because ... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall : El Hoyito (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a VERY unique route. I felt like I was climbing a wall of porcelain no friction at all. Very different for potrero not many positive holds after the crux. Felt a bit like slippery down under only a lot harder. This is called 11c/d in Eds guidebook and its complete bs this route is without a doubt 12a. One of the most unique rock climbs I've ever been on. Stellar


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer Review (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: Drew, are you trolling? Saying this route has good feet is kind of ridiculous, and just 'cause you're taller certainly doesn't make this move that much easier. An OS would be proud. I would argue that Ten Digit Dialing is slightly easier and Balkan Dirt Diving is significantly easier.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 4, 2014

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Comments: This is probably one of the best hard twelves at Shelf. Usually at this grade, the holds are very small and sharp where a high pain tolerance is necessary. This is not the case on the French are here, the crux holds are amazing not sharp or even that small. It's a little steeper than the average Shelf route too. The only downside for me is the old school bolting, clipping the fourth bolt when your pumped on point is very exciting. I would not want to fall with clipping slack out. Overall, an ama... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Fapanese Direct (5.12)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: Wow what a good route. I can't believe it took me so long to finally get on it. A top notch route for Boulder Canyon. The roof felt improbable to me till I had the right beta. I've seen many climbers on this, and everyone does the roof differently. After the roof pull is another cruxy move, but it's nowhere near as hard as the roof. Then awesome sustained 5.11 to the top in one of the best positions in Boulder Canyon. Grade felt right on at 12c/d. I thought it was a touch easier than Earth Angel... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : The Honeymoon Is Over (5.13b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for putting this up. Looks awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Got on this today, and I think it's a great line. I climbed to the right of the bolts then traversed to a good horn on the arête. I think 12d is a fair grade for it. Overall, a very aesthetic climb with great moves and an awesome position. Classic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Resonator (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: This is a nice climb, but if what Matt B says is true, that after you pull the first crux, the line originally finished in the corner at 12d. I think it's quite a bummer someone came and added bolts up the face, we have taken a decent 12d and turned it into a contrived but good 13a (Bo Can has plenty of these climbs already). I have a really hard time forcing myself onto the face when the easiest most obvious line climbs at 12d. Overall, a good climb and pretty steep for Boulder Canyon.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Soap on a Rope (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Stellar route I can't believe this went in so recently. Great rock with technical climbing on crimps that culminates with an awesome move to a bucket. Classic one of the better pitches in Clear Creek, IMHO.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Momentary Lack of Resin (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: A fantastic climb, this is the route of Lime Creek. Really nice, colorful rock on this. The climb has a great rhythm to it. Fire through a burly, reachy boulder problem on perfect crimps to a good rest. Then you have a section of exciting powerful climbing to the anchors. I think calling this 12b is a sandbag for Lime Creek. 12+ felt more like it to me. If you're very tall and strong on crimps, it could feel easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Ha, that's funny Patrick. You're the only other person I 've heard uses that beta other than myself and I've seen lots of people on the finish. That finger lock becomes extra good with the perfect amount of tape on the ring finger you could almost shake out on it. Stellar climb anyway you do it.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: He, E. Johnson, it is not listed on Mountain Project. I haven't been able to find any info on who put up the climbs or what the crag is called. Some of the routes are decent for Lime Creek though.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Super Barnacle (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Just got on this route. It is definitely not cleaning up. None of the feet are usable, they just keep scraping off. Ended up bailing due to the horrendously chossy nature of the rock. If you want to climb this route, bring a very big brush.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Tecolote Cave : Codyote (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: For sure Mark I've heard great things about that area. Thanks for all your hard work developing it I'm sure it's amazing.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Ungabunga (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: This route is absolutely stunning. One of the best climbs I've ever done. The grading is a little confusing though cause its 13a in guidebook, the main developers topo says 12b and the locals say 12+. Who knows probably 13a in colorado were I climb. But 12+ anywere else, feels significantly harder than body grooving a 12c in the area.


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