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Member Since: Jun 28, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Jack Sparrow


Point Rank: # 958
Total Points: 663
Last Year: 545
Last 30 Days: 11
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jack Sparrow been climbing?










Contributions


All 1042 | Routes 48 | Areas 7 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 58 | Posts 86 | Stars 474 | Ratings 365
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Vulture Walls : Pay Homage (5.12a/b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This is the first route I climbed at crumblewood, and it was so sharp it took away from the moves. Maybe if the rock was at all quality this climb could be good. For now it's sharp as shit and super crumbly. If this is the best crumblewood has to offer, then I've seen enough. The bouldering though is fantastic.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Lockdown (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: This is a great route with a hard bouldery crux at bolts 2-4. I thought the crux moves by themselves would be a V5 boulder problem. The rest of the route is about 11b/c. I think this route warrants the 12c grade. Grades aside, the route is a classic and should get climbed more.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Crank Du Jour (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: This is an anti-classic, sketchy first clip; really bad rock; scrunched, painful, awkward crux; and a huge loose block you have to stand on to clip anchors. I'd give it negative stars if I could. Blood Monkey is significantly better.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Blood Monkey (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: 12b for sure nice route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Jackpot (5.11d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: This is a great line up a nice headwall. Either way is legit, straight up felt way hard for 12b I think at least 12c. If you cut left, it's mid-5.11. Not sure were the 5.10 rating is coming from, maybe Leo is a Gunks or Eldo climber. Even so, mid-11 is on par with other routes in Clear Creek.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Blue Fin (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: This route is cleaning up nicely and after the second bolt the rock quality drastically improves overall a good route.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : XL Puff Sneaker (5.11d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: U guys are not correct


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : The Curse (of the Furry Bea... (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: 11c would be an old school rating but for the new school of grading were 5.15 exists and all new crags are graded by, 12a for sure. The crux moves are a v3 or 4 boulder problem with technical moves. Great rock on this one for sure.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Institutional Meat (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: This route is good, but the anchors need replacement. Both are very loose, and and the whole bolt is pulling out of wall on right one. Use caution at the anchors.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Pleasure By Ambush (V6-7)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: This problem is very contrived if you start left hand on the better of the two edges then right hand on crimpy undercling 6 inches right of left hand crimp and then pull on, this problem feels much easier than V6 and is more enjoyable this way.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchy Rules (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: 11d, I call BS. The useless anonymous coward strikes again for the downgrade. Even in ELDO!!! this route would be 12-, in Boulder Canyon 12d. in the Gunks 9+, Red River Gorge 12c. Downgraders be damned!!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Upper Y Traverse : Upper Y Traverse (V3)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: Bouldering at Flag is all about contrived hard moves, "don't grab that jug in front of yer face, use the half pad crimp, then it's truly V4 not V0 with the jug" or "the V2 rating only appplies if you climb it one handed". Bouldering is game of contrivances: how hard can I pull two inches off the ground and what amazing holds will I avoid to create my 2 move V10 lowball masterpiece, and then when someone repeats it, I can inform them how all the good holds are off if you use the good holds it's o... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : ... : Culo De Negra (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: This route is potentially the best climb i have ever done in any style or grade. Absolutely amazing climbing up wild blue rock and crazy tufas.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Piles of Trials (5.12b/c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 3, 2012

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Comments: This route is super good, you must do the dyno. It's amazing and may be one of the sickest moves I've done on a Boulder area climb. Also, maybe it's just me, but I stuck the dyno my first try but could not link the moves after, and they are turning out to be the crux for me. Anyone have beta they want to share?


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: There are two anchors on this climb, does this route stop at the first or second anchors?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : The Girlfriend Traverse (V4)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know what the problem is that goes right to left and finishes around the arete?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 14, 2012

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Comments: Definitively 12a, no doubt about it, but every route in Boulder Canyon has to be downgraded by someone.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: front range partners all weekColorado PartnersJack SparrowOct 21, 2014
front range partners all weekColorado PartnersJack SparrowOct 20, 2014
re: Eldo, Clear Creek, Flat Irons,Lumpy / FrontrangeColorado PartnersJack SparrowOct 7, 2014
re: help us decide on a winter climbing destinationGeneral ClimbingJack SparrowSep 10, 2014
re: In need of a weekday climbing partner Colorado PartnersJack SparrowSep 8, 2014
re: Looking for climbing partners boulder areaColorado PartnersJack SparrowSep 7, 2014
re: Gym wankers leaving their shit all over the placeGeneral ClimbingJack SparrowSep 1, 2014
re: I made many flash with Sven LavransenGeneral ClimbingJack SparrowAug 27, 2014
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