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Member Since: Jun 28, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Jack Sparrow


Point Rank: # 1,088
Total Points: 535
Last Year: 518
Last 30 Days: 320
3 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Jack Sparrow been climbing?










Contributions


All (848) | Routes (38) | Areas (6) | Photos (3) | Comments (50) | Posts (66) | Stars (387) | Ratings (298)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Job Disgraced (5.13a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: The start is very sketchy and you should have a no fall mentality until your standing on the ledge. Just a heads up to anyone trying this route


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c) : Photo
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: This pic doesn't do the route justice, it makes it look like he's cruising an easy slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Frothing Green (5.11a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Really, guys, 5.10? Must have been way off route.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Pinch Fest (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: This route is disgustingly polished and greasy, I was climbing this route when it was 35 degrees in the shade and it was still the slickest thing I've ever touched. The best jug on the route I can barely hold without pumping out due to the greasy rock. It's like climbing up an ice route without crampons or axes. Major props to anyone who can send this.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Problem Child (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: This is a rad climb. Definitely the best on The Pass that I've done. Stacked with difficult boulder problems and nice rests, it climbs a big, inspiring overhang. Might be one of the better routes in Colorado for the grade.


Location: Step hen : Front Ranging : Photo
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: wat route is this. sick photo


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Wall of Voodoo : Porch Monkey (5.12a/b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: This felt 12b/c to me as well. It's listed as this in both guidebooks. When you compare this route to the other route a 12a/b in the guide, this route is significantly harder. Also I don't think Dan climbed this, what rests are you talking about and what crack do you grab, doesn't sound like the same route to me. It sounds like the route down the hill that starts on a ledge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Buzz (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I love how all strong climbers compare everything to Rifle, which is kinda bs because Rifle is known for being funky, sandbagged, hard to read sequences and being just plain weird. Remember you're climbing in Boulder Canyon, home of soft, straightforward climbing. It seems stupid to compare the two. Maybe we should compare all of BC to The Gunks, in that case this route is only 5.10.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: This is a truly amazing climb and one of the best at Dude's. Lots of variety and cool sequences, make this an ultra classic. The bolting is perfect, and the line climbs really well. As far as the grade is concerned, I think there are no 13 moves on it, but with three distinct sections of 12+ climbing with no rest between, 13a is not a stretch.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: I've added a couple routes and an area to the database. I have no idea what there names are or who did them. I'm adding them on Mountainnproject for a more complete picture of Lime Creek today. If the developer of these climbs and area sees this and wants to help make the info correct, just pm me and I will change it. I'm adding these routes specifically because the guidebook for Lime Creek is no longer in print, and the new addition has not come out yet, so any info on the area is limited toMou... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : Strategery Wall : Un-named 01 (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: This is a good route with very fun moves over a roof. Mid way after the under clings I traversed a little right into a corner and stemmed for two moves then went back on face. I think if you climbed the face direct it would be pretty solid 12c. I tried the straight up way with my partner a couple times and neither of us could do the moves. We are both very solid at the 12a grade and no way is direct up the face 12a. I think it still feels 12a if you use the corner out right, and this doesn't eve... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Blackout (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: I love how all strong climbers compare everything to Rifle. Which is kinda bs because Rifle is known for being funky, sandbagged, hard to read sequences and being just plain weird. Remember you're climbing in Boulder Canyon, home of soft, straightforward climbing. It seems stupid to compare the two. Maybe we should compare all of BC to The Gunks, in that case this route is only 5.10.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Cash in the Vault (5.13a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: So, I assume Will bolted this route, since he seems to know what's on and what's not. Crack on the left is fair game in my book.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: I don't understand contrived lines. The holds I used were two feet to the left of the bolts (certainly not off route), and set me up with a left hand crimp in a runnel and a big throw to the shelf with your feet on the face. This is the efficient way to climb it, doing anything else is just climbing with bad beta. Forcing routes to be harder than they are is contrived and is more like bouldering. The beauty of route climbing is figuring out the easiest most efficient way to the top of the wall. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Pinche Guey (5.12-)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: This is a surprisingly good route at a relatively obscure crag. The moves over the roof are super fun and a little cryptic at first. I didn't find any knee-bars in the roof, but I suck at that. I did a huge power move off the undercling to snag the jug at the lip. Without the trickery, I thought this route felt about 12b/c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Sweet NiBLitz (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: I don't know about this route, the opening boulder problem is sharp, cryptic, and really hard for me. The moves aren't really cool but just hard. I think calling this 12d is a stretch, it feels significantly harder than most I've done. After the second bolt, the rock quality decreases, but the climbing gets better. I'd avoid this route till you have sent everything at The Slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: The second half of this climb is confusing. From the ledge, I saw three options: 1. climb straight up the bolted face above the ledge; 2. climb the hand crack to the left of the bolts to its own anchor, this is what the guidebook says to do; 3. climb the corner on the right and reach over and clip. The upper part is weird with a lot of options. It might be a better route if it stopped at the first anchor. Also stemming into the corner on the first half is the smart way to c... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Whiny Baby Wall : The Cloud Peak Vista Traver... (5.11a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: this climb is super classic and needs a route description. Climb slightly overhanging rock on jugs to a crux bulge at the top. 4 stars


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c/d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: Amazing route and one of the best I've done in a long time. The climb is super well protected, exposed and pumpy. The crux is definitley a height-dependent move. I sent through both cruxes my second try and fell off on the 11 move after both cruxes. It's a very pumpy route on redpoint. Highly recommended, I think it is significantly better than The Shaft as well.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: Valid points, but if you fell with your body at the third bolt, you would defidently hit the ground unless your belayer ran back. I took the fall a few moves after the second bolt and was coming close to the ground, that was my only point. I'm not saying to rebolt it, but just to feel solid before committing to those moves and even though the climbing is easier than the crux, the moves are still 11+.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: This route is super classic and one of the best I did at The Pass. Getting to the third bolt is pretty sketchy, and you would come pretty close to the ground if you fell. I think it's unfortunate that it was bolted like that, because the climbing is fantastic. I don't know why the mentality of old school climbers were to bolt routes so you would deck from 40 feet up. Sport climbing should be safe, and this route is not. Regardless, I think if you could have a huge runner hanging from the third b... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : Cookie Puss (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: This has a really cool crux move on this. Unfortunately the rock is pretty bad. If it was climbed more and cleaned up, it would be classic for sure.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Left El Shinto (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: This route warrants the 12c grade the crux is at the start thin and technical and the upper half has good rests but still packs a punch. Center Shinto might be pumpier but the crux moves are significantly easier than this. How someone can rate this 12a is beyond me especially when comparing to other ten sleep routes, I guess they must be eldo climbers. This would be 12a if you skipped the first four bolts and only climbed the upper half. regardless of the grade its one of the most beautiful line... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Great shot. This pic makes the route look like a 13.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: A little slice of Rifle for the Front Range, polished, slopey, and slippery defines climbing here. If ya dig Rifle, you will probably like it. Personally I hate climbing in Rifle, so this place kind of sucked. Might of been good for the first thousand people that climbed here.


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