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Location: CA : Grounded - Katie Brown & Na...
By: J pee When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Correction:
Admission $8.00 non members and $5.00 for members. Start time is 7pm.
Info also available on http://www.bayareaclimbers.com/ homepage
Cheers!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : The Flying Buttress (5.9)
By: J pee When: Jun 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this last summer and on the approach saw a team flying a pirate flag from their portaledge high on the Diamond. Nice! The 5.8 to sustained 5.10 finger crack described by Charles is immaculate. Be sure to bring tiny cams and RPs. This start makes the route one of the best I've done in the park. It seems relatively quick for a Grade III and has excellent rock, nice exposure, and really fun climbing. A must do!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: J pee When: Jun 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route despite the number of bolts, some of which seemed unnecessary where obvious gear could be found. P 2 is more sustained than any other and, IMHO, could compete with the slippery moves at the top of P 4 for crux status. USE CAUTION if climbing higher after P 12 to not dislodge any of the numerous loose blocks. These could mean The End for any climbers below. Climbed this in Nov. of 05 and found a register at the summit. Apparently The Bird had been there a week earlier an... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) : Photo
By: J pee When: Jun 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that a wristband from the previous night's clubbin'?
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak
By: J pee When: Apr 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Visited this place for the first time last weekend. The climbing was unexpectedly good and the grades felt pretty honest. Respect. Even more interesting were all the people we met. All hospitable, fun, funky people with far less attitude then Santa Cruz County crowd I'm used to. Good restaurants and bars and a killer party at "The Stab". Worthy of many more visits. Keep it real SLO!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Impacted Stool Crack (5.9)
By: J pee When: Apr 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt this route to be burlesque for 5.9. While the crack itself is short, it is full value. And yes, heading straight up to the anchors after clipping the bolt would be very serious. If you popped from high enough up, you would have a one way ticket to splatterville as the slab beneath the crack is low angle.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Houser Buttress Area : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: J pee When: Feb 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route a few Decembers ago in 200 mph winds. I remember complaining about the gusts and nearly being blown off stances with each high step. My partner rightfully scorned me for being a little whiner. Put it all in perspective and made me laugh at myself, the wind and the route, which reminds me a little of the second pitch of ...Mariner on Lumpy Ridge.
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Location: brent armstrong : BDAWG : Photo
By: J pee When: Dec 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sportin' the beer belly Brent? What kind of advertising is that? Looks like someone is getting comfortable closer to RR than the Strip!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles In The Sky : Bird of Fire (5.10a)
By: J pee When: Nov 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great line. Good lead for the rook tradster looking to break into the 5.10 level. I remember lots of good gear past the first 10 feet (which has a flat landing if you pop off). I do recall a lot of face holds to crimp and stand on. Some I remember to sound very hollow (especially nice hold before final bulge) and might not always be there. Worthy of many laps!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: J pee When: Aug 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a steep, clean, and stunning line! Sustained and pumpy at the altitude but mega safe. If in doubt, get on this route! Protects so well and provides great position!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Days of Heaven (5.10d)
By: J pee When: Jul 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guidebooks call the 3rd pitch the .10d crux. Most agree that the technical crux is on the 2nd pitch. I have never talked to any two people who have made the traverse move in the same way. First pitch is a little exciting but not really scary, even for the timid. Some say this is one of the finest short .10s in Colorado and in my limited experience, I would agree. Indeed a route worth doing over and over. Best to rap the anchors on climbers left off the top of the route. One can also get i... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: J pee When: Jun 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route with a third pitch that is as good as it gets. I do believe that the "5.6 chimney" is a myth. Around that west side on the 5th pitch or so I encountered many (3 or 4) steep dihedrals that all seem to peter out offering little in the way of good gear. The rock around that side is also a little mungy and there is some not-so-safe fall potential. If you rap down from the notch into the obvious weakness you will find much tat to rap from. When rapping, stay left (when facin... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Checkerboard Rock : Checkerboard Crack (5.10b)
By: J pee When: May 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route does have a bit of tricky gear. An offset Alien (black/blue) works really well near the crux. Not a good beginner .10 by any means. Good route with some great hand jams even in the flare if you really fish around for them. Cheers...
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Cheap Date (5.10b)
By: J pee When: May 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right on Jimbo. This is indeed one a the best on Lumpy. Great climb, great gear, excellent position. Climbs really well. Didn't feel too difficult and if you can keep your balance you can avoid the pump. Good lead for the aspiring .10 leader. 5 stars!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Alien Algorithm (5.11b R)
By: J pee When: May 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easier for the tall person, have to be very creative if you're shorter. Little funky but it isn't a no star stink bomb. Pulling the last roof into the flare provides some excitement as a #3 Camalot looks like it may or may not hold.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Twin Owls Parking Lot - Upd...
By: J pee When: May 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Charlie on the extra distance to Sundance being a pain, but there is a flip side to that coin. I was out at Sundance about 3 weeks ago on a Sunday (mid April) and there were about 15 parties on the rock and by the base. If the new parking lot means less people interested in climbing there because the hike is longer, my heart would not be broken. Hardest part for me is that it will become exponentially more difficult to get the early morning "ninja strike" in before work. It will... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Climb of the Ancient Marine... (5.10a)
By: J pee When: May 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: First shot at Mariner the other day. I would agree with most that crux comes after the roof going through two bolts to the anchor. Stellar slab climbing past a line of (bomber) bolts that are spaced farther apart the higher you go. Small pucker factor, huge fun. One a the best on Lumpy IMHO. Cheers...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Thunderbolts (Easter Island... (5.10)
By: J pee When: Apr 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't really feel that the route is much harder than .10a, just somewhat inobvious and requiring some good balance. Feels cruxy through the middle 3 or 4 clips; delicate. Nice exposure, excellent movement and WELL PROTECTED by well spaced bolts/drilled pins. Definitely the easiest "Tower" of all the Jacks. Great beginner tower and a nice airy rap almost the whole way down!
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