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Member Since: Jun 26, 2006
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact j wharton

Point Rank: # 1,561
Total Points: 450
Last Year: 39
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has j wharton been climbing?










Contributions


All 106 | Routes 32 | Areas 6 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts | Stars 32 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Bear Lake and Bear's Den : ... : Grizzly (5.12 WI5+ M10 R)
By: j wharton When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: I thought it was good, Eli. Definitely the hardest route at the crag. A little spicy due to the ledges and gear that's a bit hard to see from below. The lost arrow fell out on me, but there's a good red C3 where it was. I left the orange cam fixed. Thanks for another great route!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Bear Lake and Bear's Den : ... : Grizzly (5.12 WI5+ M10 R)
By: j wharton When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: Be sure to pre-clip the second bolt on this route; either with a stick clip, or by levering off the first bolt. Otherwise the crux move has very serious ledgefall potential.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Free Hallucinogen Wall (5.13 R)
By: j wharton When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: This is probably my favorite route in the Black, HK is not exaggerating when he says it's MEGA! Hopefully someone will do a ground-up free ascent soon, as it would certainly be very cool and not outrageous for someone with strong fingers and a good head.

Even though this is a historic aid climb, I would encourage aid climbers to seek out other lines in the Canyon, or at least do the direct variant between Fantasy Island and Happy Trails. There are many fragile edges, especially on pitches six ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Eroica (5.12b PG13)
By: j wharton When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: This gets my vote as the best 5.12 on the Diamond. The last two pitches are a bit dirty, but the meat of the route is amazing. Watch out for the 11+ stem pitch. It might feel harder than the 12b pitch if you haven't been standing on your feet lately.

Andrew Rothner and I linked Endless Summer into Eroica in about 12 hours on 9/9/15. Worth noting for no other reason than this was Andrew's first trip up the Diamond. Not too shabby!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Endless Summer (5.12- R)
By: j wharton When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: This route is very good. I was shocked by the quality of the rock and climbing. The two 5.11 pitches above the grassy ledge are especially good. The final 5.12- pitch is a bit convoluted but also high quality. Although we had mostly dry conditions, which I'm sure help, I think the route isn't particularly dangerous.

Andrew Rothner and I linked Endless Summer into Eroica in about 12 hours on 9/9/15. Worth noting for no other reason than this was Andrew's first trip up the Diamond. Not too shabb... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Crack (5.12c PG13)
By: j wharton When: Jun 6, 2015

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Comments: Best approached by climbing in from the left, via the first two bolts on Ninja Ladder. Quality, difficult climbing, but unfortunately it gets wet from runoff, and therefore grows a lot of lichen. In the unlikely event that the route received a heavy scrubbing and then some consistent traffic, it would be very good. As is, bring a big wire brush and perhaps some goggles.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Ladder (5.14a)
By: j wharton When: Jun 6, 2015

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Comments: This is a very good route. Crap rock for the first ten feet but then quite good and clean. Great resistance climbing, with enjoyable movement. No especially hard sections but nothing very easy either. I'd venture to say that if this route was in Boulder Canyon, it would be one of the most popular 14as in the Front Range. The approach is 3 minutes, all but the final two holds stay dry in pouring rain, and the route gets morning sun and afternoon shade, making it a great, convenient project. Props... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Pitch Perfect (5.12+)
By: j wharton When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route! I know it's sacrilege, but I'd venture to say it's a little better than The Wasp. I think the route is honest 12d and a titch harder than The Wasp. Super fun. Thanks for the hard work hand drilling the bolts to the FA team. Hopefully a crew will take up drilling the black streak to the left soon.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : The Steeple (5.12)
By: j wharton When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: This is a good route. I thought it was similar in difficulty to Echoes, perhaps just a touch easier. Doing Echoes and this route makes for a nice day of climbing. Who knew?...there is some good climbing in Unaweep after all!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Event Horizon (5.12)
By: j wharton When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: This is a quality route. No Tague Yer Time, but certainly one of the better routes on the South Chasm View Wall. The first 5.12 pitch is one of the coolest, most unique pitches in the Black. The route climbs relatively long, because it lacks the very easy middle section found on most of the routes to the left. All the climbing is reasonably well-protected by Black standards, and there is very little choss. Nice job, Chris and Steph, and thanks for letting me tag along.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Honemaster Lambada (5.14a)
By: j wharton When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: In the interest of saving someone's tips, I thought I'd post this conditions update.

I tried this route today (9/29/14), and sadly I think it has broken. There was a section between the 5th and 6th bolts that's clearly missing a hold, at least to be 14a. I checked in with Chris Weidner (who I knew climbed the route in 2008), and he confirmed that Nick Martino broke a hold a few years ago, and he doesn't think it has been climbed since.

It's still likely that the route would go, but the broken... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : King of the Mountain (5.13a)
By: j wharton When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: The crux pitch of this route is short, but very cool, and with excellent rock. For those of you like me with little-to-no flexibility there is an option to come in from the left at the second bolt of the crux dihedral via a technical gaston boulder problem...maybe V7ish. Then it's possible to "power-back" on rounded crimps to better holds. Zero stemming on the pitch this way, but fingers definitely required. Thanks for the nice route!


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Lowe-Spark (5.13 A0)
By: j wharton When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: This thing still needs a true FFA. I red pointed pitch 4 properly. (Climbing it from the triangle jug as HK did, is really a minor difference since it's such a good rest...maybe a letter grade at most. However, it is psychologically tough since the traverse is so low percentage, and the first part of the pitch isn't that fun.) I also sent the other crux pitch, so we were on our way to the first true FFA. Unfortunately we had to bail in an epic thunderstorm two pitches from the top.

Some tips: ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Overlook : Brenda from Kansas (5.13b)
By: j wharton When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: If you start sitting way down and left, there is a cool, gaston boulder problem to link into the original start of BFK. (Bring a pad to protect this part.) Not perfect rock, but really cool athletic movement. Probably adds a letter/or V-grade to the route. One of my favorite "mini" routes in B-Canyon. With a lot of pads and fresh knees, it would be pretty reasonable to just boulder this route out.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Alberta Falls Wall
By: j wharton When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: This is a great area for Scottish style winter climbing. It's quite protected from the wind; we've experienced pleasant climbing days when gusts were forecast to be in the 60mph range. It has a really quick, obvious approach; maybe 30-40 minutes, and it's right above the summer tourist trail. Finally, it has a few easier routes with actual ice, some harder dry tooling trad lines, and potential for more. I suspect early in the fall or later in the spring there may even be some... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Rusty Cage (M7 PG13)
By: j wharton When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The Roberts' guide mistakenly labels this as Walk The Line. SH and and I spoke with Jeff Lowe in person, and he assured us his route (which he actually call Snowblind Friend was farther to the left). This is a nice route, that clearly took a fair bit of work--thanks Steves! Jim Turner and I climbed the route last week and had a great time. I'd echo HK's comments. Don't expect a safe outing, but the bolts keep it reasonable.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Silhouette (WI6+ M9 R)
By: j wharton When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this route today (1/3/14) with mixed master Stanley. He onsighted the crux pitch, which was a really nice effort. Despite shivering my way up the crux, I truly enjoyed myself. I think this is one of the best mixed pitches I've done in Colorado! It's also a testament to just how much cooler mixed climbing is when there are widgets rather than bolts involved! Hats off to Ben and Will!

Judging by Ben's photos, It looks like it has a little more ice in places and a little less in others. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Extendogap (5.12c R)
By: j wharton When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: Matt,

Nice Work! Cool to see somebody repeat this route, and a nice look back at the days when I was into the Eldo headpoint game. Looking at your video, it looks like the beta I used way back when, so I don't think anything has broken as the guidebook suggests. I've seen a few people toprope this line...Sonnie, Segal, etc...but to my knowledge, I don't know of anybody else that's led it. Of course in the Boulder area this is always a very sketchy assumption! Also Segal's route Smart Went Crazy... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Chaos Canyon : ... : Shaqtoolik (M6+)
By: j wharton When: Mar 10, 2013

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Comments: This is a nice little route with a quick approach. Thanks for posting it, Matt and Andy! The first pitch seemed like well protected M6-ish climbing, although we had the benefit of a very sunny day, which let us hand jam without issue. The second pitch (maybe M5-ish) is a bit heads up, especially with the ledge so close below. A piton, or beak, might be nice, and would make the pitch safe. There's potential for a very hard, steep, trad protected M-route just to the left of this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: j wharton When: Feb 23, 2013

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Comments: This is a surprisingly fun route with only one (albeit egregious) chipped hold. Definitely worthwhile if you're looking for a power-endurance 8b in a nice, quiet setting.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
By: j wharton When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: Here's a video with footage from Bullet (left version) and the last pitch of Englishman's on a nice day. Enjoy!




Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Elephant In The Room (5.13b/c)
By: j wharton When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: Really fun climbing, and unlike the typical Boulder Canyon fare, it's not a heinous one-mover. I think it's somewhere in the .13b/c range, but it's always hard to say for sure. Great "find" by Josh as the route sits right next to the uber-popular Vasodilator. Lazy bottom feeders (like myself) are indebted to all the guys like Josh out there developing quality new routes!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Schoolmaster (5.10 A0 PG13)
By: j wharton When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: Mike Pennings and I free climbed this route at .12+. Crux pitch involves two height dependent boulder problems seperated by a no-hands rest on a diving board feature. The second crux is the harder of the two. Pretty damn fun route, and a nice alternative when your fingers hurt at just the thought of actual Indian Creek climbing!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale & uphill : Dry Ice (WI5 M9)
By: j wharton When: Dec 17, 2011

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Comments: This is a cool route that adds some more climbing in the Deep Freeze Cirque, making it easier to stomach the approach for Deep Freeze's single pitch crux. The roof looks improbable from below but has reasonable feet and gear with one longish pull. I'm guessing this thing was very hard with leashes--nice job, FA team!--but the difficulty is much reduced without them, so don't hesitate to give it a try! Cheers.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Full House (5.12)
By: j wharton When: Aug 20, 2011

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Comments: Bryan Gilmore and I climbed most of this route yesterday. We bailed at Table roof, because things were completely drenched from there up. Despite Joel and Scott's comments, I would echo Marc's feeling that this is an excellent route. Sure there's some flakiness around, but generally the rock is as good, or better, than what is normally found on the right side of the Diamond. I managed to link pitches 3 and 4 to avoid the new bolted belay. This seemed pretty reasonable, although you need plenty o... more >>


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