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Member Since: Jun 26, 2006
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact j wharton


Point Rank: # 1,495
Total Points: 411
Last Year: 128
Last 30 Days: 2
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has j wharton been climbing?










Contributions


All 91 | Routes 29 | Areas 6 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts | Stars 29 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Dry Ice (WI5 M9)
By: j wharton When: Dec 17, 2011

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Comments: This is a cool route that adds some more climbing in the Deep Freeze Cirque, making it easier to stomach the approach for Deep Freeze's single pitch crux. The roof looks improbable from below but has reasonable feet and gear with one longish pull. I'm guessing this thing was very hard with leashes--nice job, FA team!--but the difficulty is much reduced without them, so don't hesitate to give it a try! Cheers.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Full House (5.12)
By: j wharton When: Aug 20, 2011

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Comments: Bryan Gilmore and I climbed most of this route yesterday. We bailed at Table roof, because things were completely drenched from there up. Despite Joel and Scott's comments, I would echo Marc's feeling that this is an excellent route. Sure there's some flakiness around, but generally the rock is as good, or better, than what is normally found on the right side of the Diamond. I managed to link pitches 3 and 4 to avoid the new bolted belay. This seemed pretty reasonable, although you need plenty o... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Dunn Westbay (5.10 C3)
By: j wharton When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: Adam's mistaken, the route was not free climbed in 2009. The first free ascent took place on Saturday, July 23, 2011. The crux is a long pitch off the top of the Green Pillar, which I feel is .13b-ish. But there are also four more 5.12 pitches above, the last two being especially wet and tricky. The best free route I've done on the Diamond (although I can't speak to the quality of the Honeymoon). Big thanks to Pete Takeda, and Andy Donson for their vision to see this climb as a free route, and f... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Crosswinds : Grippin' the Cutlass (5.12c)
By: j wharton When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: I broke a key crimp at the start of the headwall--sorry. The route still goes, however, just a touch harder, and a bit reachy.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Sublime Vision (M7-8)
By: j wharton When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: Blake, it does not climb the entire Sublime Buttress, just the first two pitches. Then left across a ledge (from a tree belay) to join Tunnel Vision for 2.5 pitches. Then right for 2 more pitches up a steep, left-facing corner. Hope you've been well!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Sublime Vision (M7-8)
By: j wharton When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: Yes, we climbed the roof on pitch two of Sublime Buttress, which is the crux of the route. If you climbed it on a warm, sunny day and could use your hands to jam, it would probably be a bit easier. Was very wintery when Steve and I climbed. Steve took some photos of the upper corner. Hope you go climb it! Be great right now, since we removed a lot of snow.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Brain Freeze (M5+ Steep Snow)
By: j wharton When: Mar 16, 2011

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Comments: I soloed this route today. Pretty damn fun. There's a fair bit of ice on it now, and if things don't get too warm my guess is that it will only get better. I walked off via the major gully to west. Simple and easy, just plug west along the ridge for 10 to 15 minutes, looking for the first obvious, big gully. If it's not dead-easy, you're not there yet. Would save bringing two ropes for the raps. Also can't imagine needing pins on this route. Cheers!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice : Bullet (WI3+ M6+)
By: j wharton When: Jan 16, 2011

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Comments: Brian McMahon and I climbed this route today in full Scottish conditions--a proper day out! We had intended to try something on Hallett's North Face, but we couldn't even see the wall from 50' away! Just thought I'd add that I climbed another pitch above the terrace in the topo. Going straight up another big dihedral and out some roofs. Good fun, and good pro. Maybe a touch easier then the 1st pitch. We were able to walk off right easily. This route's a great consolation prize if things prove to... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Jet Stream (5.12+)
By: j wharton When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Apparently the obvious right facing arch just to the left of pitch 4 goes at straightforward .11+/.12-, which would eleminate the most cryptic bit of climbing on the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Jet Stream (5.12+)
By: j wharton When: Mar 30, 2010

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Comments: This route is among the best routes at Red Rocks. A bit shorter, but perhaps better overall then the Original Route on the Rainbow Wall, and considerably harder. The first 30 feet of pitch 2, and the first 15 feet of pitch 4 are the definitive cruxes. Despite the .12c rating in Handren's new book, local consensus seems to put them somewhere around .13 minus, however they're bizarre, body english climbing that seems impossible at first, and then "easy" once you know what to do. It's easy to pull ... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : The Avenger (5.13a PG13)
By: j wharton When: Aug 27, 2006

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Comments: All the bolts need to come out. I climbed the entire route on gear, and never used the bolts during my attempts to redpoint the route. For full disclosure--I did use a few bolts for directionals during my initial TR recon. I removed the bolts from the anchor down to the roof (maybe 4) before heading to Asia for the summer, but still need to finish the job. The route has mostly studs, so they're a bit of a pain to get out. I should be able to finish the job this fall. True onsighters stop rea... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Nude Buttress : The Unspoken Truth (5.12c/d)
By: j wharton When: Aug 27, 2006

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Comments: Hey Eric and Chris,

Thanks for the history. I had heard the some muddled stories about these routes from Goplerud, Hollenbaugh, Benge, and even called Perkins to see what he knew. You guys both came up, but nobody really knew what the story was. Most assumed they were still unclimbed, so sorry about any confusion. Strange that Tom ignored these climbs in his book--he gave me some weird reasons over the phone. Eric, if you remember your name for unspoken truth let's use it, or re-name it no... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Jaded Lady 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

WY : Wind River Range : ... : Mount Hooker

The Velvet Tongue 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall

Shake Yer Money Maker 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Big Wild Boulder

Hook, Line, and Sinker, aka the Free Boissonneault-Larson 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13

WY : Wind River Range : ... : Mount Hooker

Problem Child 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

The Avenger 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Sunset Cliff

Podophobia 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

CO : Boulder : ... : Lost Angel

The Black Sheep 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

CO : Gunnison : ... : North Chasm View Wall

Atmospheres 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

NV : Red Rock : ... : Jet Stream Wall

Englishman's Route M5-6

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Sublime Vision M7-8

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Loch Vale & uphill

Hairy Devil WI5+ M6-7 R

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Camp Bird Road

Deep Throat 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5-6 M7

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice

Four Finger Discount 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

Wild Thing 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

The Unspoken Truth 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Nude Buttress

The Naked Truth 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Nude Buttress

Liar, Liar... 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Nude Buttress

I'll be Black 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Sunset Cliff

Missed the Boat 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

Before There Were Nine 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Lower Grotto Wall

Pete-15 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Big Wild Boulder

Duncan Donuts M9 PG13

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Alberta Falls Wall

Alberta Falls Wall (in winter) M8

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Alberta Falls Wall

Mawty's Big Day WI3 M4-5

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Alberta Falls Wall

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