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Member Since: Jun 26, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact j wharton


Point Rank: # 1,506
Total Points: 411
Last Year: 128
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has j wharton been climbing?










Contributions


All 91 | Routes 29 | Areas 6 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts | Stars 29 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Wild Thing

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c (7)

Sport, 1 pitch, 90'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

Jun 28, 2006

Problem Child

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (11)

Sport, 1 pitch, 85'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

Jun 27, 2006

The Avenger (FA)

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 (7)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Sunset Cliff

Jun 27, 2006

I'll be Black

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (29)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Sunset Cliff

Jun 27, 2006

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Mount Hooker

WY : Wind River Range : Baptiste Lake

Aug 17, 2014

Alberta Falls Wall

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Loch Vale & vicinity

Jan 30, 2014

Nude Buttress

CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area

Jul 4, 2006

Big Wild Boulder

CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area

Jun 28, 2006

Wild Rock

CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area

Jun 27, 2006

Sunset Cliff

CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek

Jun 27, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Free-version topo.

Free-version topo.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Dunn Westbay (5.10 C3)

Aug 10, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Event Horizon (5.12)
By: j wharton When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: This is a quality route. No Tague Yer Time, but certainly one of the better routes on the South Chasm View Wall. The first 5.12 pitch is one of the coolest, most unique pitches in the Black. The route climbs relatively long, because it lacks the very easy middle section found on most of the routes to the left. All the climbing is reasonably well-protected by Black standards, and there is very little choss. Nice job, Chris and Steph, and thanks for letting me tag along.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Honemaster Lambada (5.14a)
By: j wharton When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: In the interest of saving someone's tips, I thought I'd post this conditions update.

I tried this route today (9/29/14), and sadly I think it has broken. There was a section between the 5th and 6th bolts that's clearly missing a hold, at least to be 14a. I checked in with Chris Weidner (who I knew climbed the route in 2008), and he confirmed that Nick Martino broke a hold a few years ago, and he doesn't think it has been climbed since.

It's still likely that the route would go, but the broken... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : King of the Mountain (5.13a)
By: j wharton When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: The crux pitch of this route is short, but very cool, and with excellent rock. For those of you like me with little-to-no flexibility there is an option to come in from the left at the second bolt of the crux dihedral via a technical gaston boulder problem...maybe V7ish. Then it's possible to "power-back" on rounded crimps to better holds. Zero stemming on the pitch this way, but fingers definitely required. Thanks for the nice route!


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Lowe-Spark (5.13 A0)
By: j wharton When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: This thing still needs a true FFA. I red pointed pitch 4 properly. (Climbing it from the triangle jug as HK did, is really a minor difference since it's such a good rest...maybe a letter grade at most. However, it is psychologically tough since the traverse is so low percentage, and the first part of the pitch isn't that fun.) I also sent the other crux pitch, so we were on our way to the first true FFA. Unfortunately we had to bail in an epic thunderstorm two pitches from the top.

Some tips: ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Overlook : Brenda from Kansas (5.13b)
By: j wharton When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: If you start sitting way down and left, there is a cool, gaston boulder problem to link into the original start of BFK. (Bring a pad to protect this part.) Not perfect rock, but really cool athletic movement. Probably adds a letter/or V-grade to the route. One of my favorite "mini" routes in B-Canyon. With a lot of pads and fresh knees, it would be pretty reasonable to just boulder this route out.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Alberta Falls Wall
By: j wharton When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: This is a great area for Scottish style winter climbing. It's quite protected from the wind; we've experienced pleasant climbing days when gusts were forecast to be in the 60mph range. It has a really quick, obvious approach; maybe 30-40 minutes, and it's right above the summer tourist trail. Finally, it has a few easier routes with actual ice, some harder dry tooling trad lines, and potential for more. I suspect early in the fall or later in the spring there may even be some... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Rusty Cage (M7 PG13)
By: j wharton When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The Roberts' guide mistakenly labels this as Walk The Line. SH and and I spoke with Jeff Lowe in person, and he assured us his route (which he actually call Snowblind Friend was farther to the left). This is a nice route, that clearly took a fair bit of work--thanks Steves! Jim Turner and I climbed the route last week and had a great time. I'd echo HK's comments. Don't expect a safe outing, but the bolts keep it reasonable.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Silhouette (WI6+ M9 R)
By: j wharton When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this route today (1/3/14) with mixed master Stanley. He onsighted the crux pitch, which was a really nice effort. Despite shivering my way up the crux, I truly enjoyed myself. I think this is one of the best mixed pitches I've done in Colorado! It's also a testament to just how much cooler mixed climbing is when there are widgets rather than bolts involved! Hats off to Ben and Will!

Judging by Ben's photos, It looks like it has a little more ice in places and a little less in others. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Extendogap (5.12c R)
By: j wharton When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: Matt,

Nice Work! Cool to see somebody repeat this route, and a nice look back at the days when I was into the Eldo headpoint game. Looking at your video, it looks like the beta I used way back when, so I don't think anything has broken as the guidebook suggests. I've seen a few people toprope this line...Sonnie, Segal, etc...but to my knowledge, I don't know of anybody else that's led it. Of course in the Boulder area this is always a very sketchy assumption! Also Segal's route Smart Went Crazy... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Chaos Canyon : Chaos Creek : Shaqtoolik (M6+)
By: j wharton When: Mar 10, 2013

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Comments: This is a nice little route with a quick approach. Thanks for posting it, Matt and Andy! The first pitch seemed like well protected M6-ish climbing, although we had the benefit of a very sunny day, which let us hand jam without issue. The second pitch (maybe M5-ish) is a bit heads up, especially with the ledge so close below. A piton, or beak, might be nice, and would make the pitch safe. There's potential for a very hard, steep, trad protected M-route just to the left of this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: j wharton When: Feb 23, 2013

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Comments: This is a surprisingly fun route with only one (albeit egregious) chipped hold. Definitely worthwhile if you're looking for a power-endurance 8b in a nice, quiet setting.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
By: j wharton When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: Here's a video with footage from Bullet (left version) and the last pitch of Englishman's on a nice day. Enjoy!




Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Elephant In The Room (5.13+)
By: j wharton When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: Really fun climbing, and unlike the typical Boulder Canyon fare, it's not a heinous one-mover. I think it's somewhere in the .13b/c range, but it's always hard to say for sure. Great "find" by Josh as the route sits right next to the uber-popular Vasodilator. Lazy bottom feeders (like myself) are indebted to all the guys like Josh out there developing quality new routes!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Schoolmaster (5.10 A0 PG13)
By: j wharton When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: Mike Pennings and I free climbed this route at .12+. Crux pitch involves two height dependent boulder problems seperated by a no-hands rest on a diving board feature. The second crux is the harder of the two. Pretty damn fun route, and a nice alternative when your fingers hurt at just the thought of actual Indian Creek climbing!


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