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Member Since: Jun 26, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact j wharton

Point Rank: # 1,548
Total Points: 425
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 2
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has j wharton been climbing?










Contributions


All 97 | Routes 30 | Areas 6 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 30 | Posts | Stars 30 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Shake Yer Money Maker

5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 30'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Big Wild Boulder

Jun 28, 2006

Wild Thing

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c (8)

Sport, 1 pitch, 90'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

Jun 28, 2006

Problem Child

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (14)

Sport, 1 pitch, 85'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

Jun 27, 2006

The Avenger (FA)

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 (7)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Sunset Cliff

Jun 27, 2006

I'll be Black

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (31)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Sunset Cliff

Jun 27, 2006

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Mount Hooker

WY : Wind River Range : Baptiste Lake

Aug 17, 2014

Alberta Falls Wall

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice

Jan 30, 2014

Nude Buttress

CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area

Jul 4, 2006

Big Wild Boulder

CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area

Jun 28, 2006

Wild Rock

CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area

Jun 27, 2006

Sunset Cliff

CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek

Jun 27, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Free-version topo.

Free-version topo.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Dunn Westbay (5.10 C3)

Aug 10, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Crack (5.12c PG13)
By: j wharton When: Jun 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Best approached by climbing in from the left, via the first two bolts on Ninja Ladder. Quality, difficult climbing, but unfortunately it gets wet from runoff, and therefore grows a lot of lichen. In the unlikely event that the route received a heavy scrubbing and then some consistent traffic, it would be very good. As is, bring a big wire brush and perhaps some goggles.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Ladder (5.14a)
By: j wharton When: Jun 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a very good route. Crap rock for the first ten feet but then quite good and clean. Great resistance climbing, with enjoyable movement. No especially hard sections but nothing very easy either. I'd venture to say that if this route was in Boulder Canyon, it would be one of the most popular 14as in the Front Range. The approach is 3 minutes, all but the final two holds stay dry in pouring rain, and the route gets morning sun and afternoon shade, making it a great, convenient project. Props... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Pitch Perfect (5.12+)
By: j wharton When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route! I know it's sacrilege, but I'd venture to say it's a little better than The Wasp. I think the route is honest 12d and a titch harder than The Wasp. Super fun. Thanks for the hard work hand drilling the bolts to the FA team. Hopefully a crew will take up drilling the black streak to the left soon.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : The Steeple (5.12)
By: j wharton When: Mar 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a good route. I thought it was similar in difficulty to Echoes, perhaps just a touch easier. Doing Echoes and this route makes for a nice day of climbing. Who knew?...there is some good climbing in Unaweep after all!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Event Horizon (5.12)
By: j wharton When: Oct 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is a quality route. No Tague Yer Time, but certainly one of the better routes on the South Chasm View Wall. The first 5.12 pitch is one of the coolest, most unique pitches in the Black. The route climbs relatively long, because it lacks the very easy middle section found on most of the routes to the left. All the climbing is reasonably well-protected by Black standards, and there is very little choss. Nice job, Chris and Steph, and thanks for letting me tag along.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Honemaster Lambada (5.14a)
By: j wharton When: Sep 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: In the interest of saving someone's tips, I thought I'd post this conditions update.

I tried this route today (9/29/14), and sadly I think it has broken. There was a section between the 5th and 6th bolts that's clearly missing a hold, at least to be 14a. I checked in with Chris Weidner (who I knew climbed the route in 2008), and he confirmed that Nick Martino broke a hold a few years ago, and he doesn't think it has been climbed since.

It's still likely that the route would go, but the broken... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : King of the Mountain (5.13a)
By: j wharton When: Jul 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The crux pitch of this route is short, but very cool, and with excellent rock. For those of you like me with little-to-no flexibility there is an option to come in from the left at the second bolt of the crux dihedral via a technical gaston boulder problem...maybe V7ish. Then it's possible to "power-back" on rounded crimps to better holds. Zero stemming on the pitch this way, but fingers definitely required. Thanks for the nice route!


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Lowe-Spark (5.13 A0)
By: j wharton When: Jul 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This thing still needs a true FFA. I red pointed pitch 4 properly. (Climbing it from the triangle jug as HK did, is really a minor difference since it's such a good rest...maybe a letter grade at most. However, it is psychologically tough since the traverse is so low percentage, and the first part of the pitch isn't that fun.) I also sent the other crux pitch, so we were on our way to the first true FFA. Unfortunately we had to bail in an epic thunderstorm two pitches from the top.

Some tips: ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Overlook : Brenda from Kansas (5.13b)
By: j wharton When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: If you start sitting way down and left, there is a cool, gaston boulder problem to link into the original start of BFK. (Bring a pad to protect this part.) Not perfect rock, but really cool athletic movement. Probably adds a letter/or V-grade to the route. One of my favorite "mini" routes in B-Canyon. With a lot of pads and fresh knees, it would be pretty reasonable to just boulder this route out.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Alberta Falls Wall
By: j wharton When: Jan 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great area for Scottish style winter climbing. It's quite protected from the wind; we've experienced pleasant climbing days when gusts were forecast to be in the 60mph range. It has a really quick, obvious approach; maybe 30-40 minutes, and it's right above the summer tourist trail. Finally, it has a few easier routes with actual ice, some harder dry tooling trad lines, and potential for more. I suspect early in the fall or later in the spring there may even be some... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Rusty Cage (M7 PG13)
By: j wharton When: Jan 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The Roberts' guide mistakenly labels this as Walk The Line. SH and and I spoke with Jeff Lowe in person, and he assured us his route (which he actually call Snowblind Friend was farther to the left). This is a nice route, that clearly took a fair bit of work--thanks Steves! Jim Turner and I climbed the route last week and had a great time. I'd echo HK's comments. Don't expect a safe outing, but the bolts keep it reasonable.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Silhouette (WI6+ M9 R)
By: j wharton When: Jan 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this route today (1/3/14) with mixed master Stanley. He onsighted the crux pitch, which was a really nice effort. Despite shivering my way up the crux, I truly enjoyed myself. I think this is one of the best mixed pitches I've done in Colorado! It's also a testament to just how much cooler mixed climbing is when there are widgets rather than bolts involved! Hats off to Ben and Will!

Judging by Ben's photos, It looks like it has a little more ice in places and a little less in others. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Extendogap (5.12c R)
By: j wharton When: Apr 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Matt,

Nice Work! Cool to see somebody repeat this route, and a nice look back at the days when I was into the Eldo headpoint game. Looking at your video, it looks like the beta I used way back when, so I don't think anything has broken as the guidebook suggests. I've seen a few people toprope this line...Sonnie, Segal, etc...but to my knowledge, I don't know of anybody else that's led it. Of course in the Boulder area this is always a very sketchy assumption! Also Segal's route Smart Went Crazy... more >>


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