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Member Since: May 17, 2006
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 66 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 10 | Posts 42 | Stars 8 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Interstice

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b (18)

Trad, 2 pitches, 180'

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

May 24, 2008

Easter Time Too

5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c (41)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest...

Jul 25, 2006

Frustration Syndrome

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b (37)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

NY : The Gunks : ... : k. The Slime Wall

May 17, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Pitch one of Interstice <br />Photo by Gary Thomann

Pitch one of Interstice Photo by Gary Thomann

NY : The Gunks : ... : Interstice (5.10d)

Jun 2, 2008

Placing gear at the roof.

Placing gear at the roof.

NY : The Gunks : ... : BB Route (5.8+)

Jun 1, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Divine Wind / All the Nasti... (5.8+ R)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch up to the two-bolt anchor is reasonably protected with decent-looking Petzl bolts and is about 5.7. You can toprope the first pitch of All the Nasties (5.9 with well-spaced protection) from this anchor if desired.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Malice In Bucketland (5.9-)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A classic, but the bolts and hangers are getting quite old and should be replaced.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face Angling Crack? (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this crack with my friend Ben in about 1993. We started up the off width and left-angling crack for about 30' or so and then lowered off, placing two drilled pins to protect a variation start on a short arete to the left of the off width. I remember the climbing on the variation as interesting and about 5.9 or 5.10. I'm not sure if the pins are still there or not, as I haven't been back since. If the gear is still there, it's worth doing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff
By: J. Nickel When: Sep 24, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: See thomannengineering.web.officelive.com/ShantyCliff.aspx for another short description of the cliff. Also, look at the rest of Gary's website for more destinations in the Southern Adirondacks.
Edited - sorry, old link, see Jim's comment below


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Ape Call (5.8 R)
By: J. Nickel When: Nov 2, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Led this route on Friday onsight. I vote for 5.8 R. The gear protecting the crux moves to the good holds above the slab would be unlikely to hold a fall. This would result in an awkward ground fall from about 15' up.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)
By: J. Nickel When: Sep 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: We did the first four pitches yesterday with the straight up variation on the third pitch. The route is fantastic. Beautiful thin crack and corner climbing.
We had 2 ropes for rappelling, but it looked to me like a single 70M rope would get you down.
Bring RP's and wires and many finger sized cams. I don't think that we placed anything bigger than a green Camalot on the route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Land's End (Direct) (5.9 PG13)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch has good climbing, but I'd call it 5.9+. There is also an R-rated runout on 5.7 terrain past a very questionable flake. A large cam (blue Camalot or larger) is handy for the arching crack after the runout. Also, the anchor at the top of the first pitch consists of two old pins, two ancient tricams, and an extra-crispy sling hanging down from a tie-off, all tied together with slings and rings of uncertain vintage. It can be backed up fairly easily, but bear this in mind ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Bird Cage (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Jun 2, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: When I led this route a year or two ago, there was no good anchor above the roof to rappel from. Recently, I led up the corner and traversed right to the Birdland anchor, skipping the dramatic roof moves. This was a really good pitch at about 5.9+ and allows for an easy descent. I think that it would also be possible to continue up the second pitch of Birdland from above the roof.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Retribution (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Jun 5, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: A great route! 5.10b, three stars, PG gear (a reasonably safe onsight lead). Not as sustained as Nosedive but with a harder crux.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Star Action (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Jun 2, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: As of 5/26/06 there is one piton remaining on the route. It is on the face under the crux in a horizontal. It looks ok and is easily backed up with a #1 TCU. The crux protects well with a yellow Alien or equivalent. Bring gear to a #2 Camalot.

I led the route in one pitch and had no problems with rope drag. A great route! Three stars.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Miura vs. TC Pro sizingClimbing Gear DiscussionJ. Nickel4 days ago
re: Favorite Winter CragsEastern StatesJ. NickelNov 24, 2013
re: Hand/Fist Cracks in the Gunks NYEastern StatesJ. NickelAug 27, 2013
re: Gunks Friday 3/29Eastern and Southern StatesJ. NickelMar 26, 2013
re: The best cracks of the north eastEastern StatesJ. NickelFeb 3, 2013
Partner this Friday 10/5 for Gunks or AdirondacksEastern StatesJ. NickelOct 3, 2012
re: gunks partner for this friday Eastern StatesJ. NickelOct 3, 2012
re: gunks partner for this friday Eastern StatesJ. NickelOct 3, 2012
Gunks or Adirondacks Partner for Friday 10/5Eastern and Southern StatesJ. NickelOct 3, 2012
re: rock routes recommendations for Adirondack Eastern StatesJ. NickelJun 25, 2012
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