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Member Since: May 17, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact J. Nickel

Point Rank: # 5,432
Total Points: 99
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 13
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J. Nickel been climbing?










Contributions


All 97 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 19 | Posts 48 | Stars 16 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Courtney Marie's Boobies

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Lost T

Aug 5, 2016

Iron Cross

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

NY : Lake Luzerne : Potash Cliff

Apr 3, 2015

Black Dog

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 55'

NY : Lake Luzerne : Potash Cliff

Apr 1, 2015

Interstice

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (25)

Trad, 2 pitches, 180'

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

May 24, 2008

Easter Time Too

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (50)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest...

Jul 25, 2006

Frustration Syndrome

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (50)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

NY : The Gunks : ... : k. The Slime Wall

May 17, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Sizing up the move to the crimp

Sizing up the move to the crimp

NY : Lake Luzerne : ... : Black Dog (5.12a)

Apr 1, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Randy finishing the first pitch

Randy finishing the first pitch

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Positive Latitude (5.10b)

Oct 11, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one of Interstice Photo by Gary Thomann

Pitch one of Interstice Photo by Gary Thomann

NY : The Gunks : ... : Interstice (5.10d)

Jun 2, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: Placing gear at the roof.

Placing gear at the roof.

NY : The Gunks : ... : BB Route (5.8+)

Jun 1, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I put a new hanger and nut on the last bolt of Hard Times today. The rest of them looked OK.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Shantytown (5.9+)
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The nuts on the bolts were all tight today.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Mean Sister (5.9+)
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Having led the route without the bolt and with it, I think that the route is better with it. It is true that gear is available near the bolt, but it has to be placed mid-crux with the risk of a ledge fall if you blow it. This makes the route safe for 5.11 leaders and hazardous to 9+/10- leaders, which is at odds with the style in which this cliff was developed (and may I add, the development of this cliff entailed a ton of hard work and scrubbing that neither you nor I participated in). In an... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : The Keyhole (5.11a PG13)
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A nice climb, but currently a little dirty.
The PG13 rating is based on climbing straight up to the first bolt via the 11a face. That would be thin and a little scary to make that first clip, I would guess. Use a stick clip if you value your ankles, which would make the climb G-rated, as would doing the more common, easier start to the right. The easier start is 5.8 or 5.9 and makes the climb 5.10 overall (the guide says 5.10c, I thought 5.10a).
Bring a standard, light rack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The bolt on the first pitch has been replaced and looks good.


Location: NY : Lake Luzerne : Potash Cliff : Black Dog (5.12a) : Photo
By: J. Nickel When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: Photo by Gary Thomann


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Maestro (5.10c)
By: J. Nickel When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: The route is PG for sure, and I thought it was harder than C-tips or Menace to Sobriety. Not a route that you want to climb in full sun, either. All that said, it's brilliant slab climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Shanty Girl (5.6)
By: J. Nickel When: Nov 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Regarding top roping through the fixed gear: I realize that this is a polarizing topic, but from a safety standpoint I wouldn't recommend attaching carabiners to the drop-in style cold shuts found on many of the routes at Shanty Cliff. I suppose it might work to girth hitch or clove hitch a sling to the cold shut, but a carabiner runs the risk of twisting and coming unclipped. I would suggest using the cold shuts directly in this case. On a side note, if any of the fixed gear at Shanty is lo... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Positive Latitude (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Oct 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The nuts for the hangers on the bolts at the first belay need tightening. Maybe someone could bring a wrench up if I don't get a chance?
Outstanding face climbing on this one!


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Divine Wind / All the Nasti... (5.8+ R)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch up to the two-bolt anchor is reasonably protected with decent-looking Petzl bolts and is about 5.7. You can toprope the first pitch of All the Nasties (5.9 with well-spaced protection) from this anchor if desired.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Malice In Bucketland (5.9-)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A classic, but the bolts and hangers are getting quite old and should be replaced.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face Angling Crack? (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this crack with my friend Ben in about 1993. We started up the off width and left-angling crack for about 30' or so and then lowered off, placing two drilled pins to protect a variation start on a short arete to the left of the off width. I remember the climbing on the variation as interesting and about 5.9 or 5.10. I'm not sure if the pins are still there or not, as I haven't been back since. If the gear is still there, it's worth doing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff
By: J. Nickel When: Sep 24, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: See thomannengineering.web.officel... for another short description of the cliff. Also, look at the rest of Gary's website for more destinations in the Southern Adirondacks.
Edited - sorry, old link, see Jim's comment below


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Ape Call (5.8 R)
By: J. Nickel When: Nov 2, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Led this route on Friday onsight. I vote for 5.8 R. The gear protecting the crux moves to the good holds above the slab would be unlikely to hold a fall. This would result in an awkward ground fall from about 15' up.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)
By: J. Nickel When: Sep 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: We did the first four pitches yesterday with the straight up variation on the third pitch. The route is fantastic. Beautiful thin crack and corner climbing.
We had 2 ropes for rappelling, but it looked to me like a single 70M rope would get you down.
Bring RP's and wires and many finger sized cams. I don't think that we placed anything bigger than a green Camalot on the route.


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