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Member Since: May 17, 2006
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact J. Nickel

Point Rank: # 5,549
Total Points: 98
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J. Nickel been climbing?










Contributions


All 96 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 48 | Stars 16 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Courtney Marie's Boobies

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Lost T

Aug 5, 2016

Iron Cross

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

NY : Lake Luzerne : Potash Cliff

Apr 3, 2015

Black Dog

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 55'

NY : Lake Luzerne : Potash Cliff

Apr 1, 2015

Interstice

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (27)

Trad, 2 pitches, 180'

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

May 24, 2008

Easter Time Too

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (52)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest...

Jul 25, 2006

Frustration Syndrome

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (50)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

NY : The Gunks : ... : k. The Slime Wall

May 17, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Sizing up the move to the crimp

Sizing up the move to the crimp

NY : Lake Luzerne : ... : Black Dog (5.12a)

Apr 1, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Randy finishing the first pitch

Randy finishing the first pitch

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Positive Latitude (5.10b)

Oct 11, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one of Interstice Photo by Gary Thomann

Pitch one of Interstice Photo by Gary Thomann

NY : The Gunks : ... : Interstice (5.10d)

Jun 2, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: Placing gear at the roof.

Placing gear at the roof.

NY : The Gunks : ... : BB Route (5.8+)

Jun 1, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I put a new hanger and nut on the last bolt of Hard Times today. The rest of them looked OK.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Shantytown (5.9+)
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The nuts on the bolts were all tight today.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Mean Sister (5.9+)
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Having led the route without the bolt and with it, I think that the route is better with it. It is true that gear is available near the bolt, but it has to be placed mid-crux with the risk of a ledge fall if you blow it. This makes the route safe for 5.11 leaders and hazardous to 9+/10- leaders, which is at odds with the style in which this cliff was developed (and may I add, the development of this cliff entailed a ton of hard work and scrubbing that neither you nor I participated in). In an... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : The Keyhole (5.11a PG13)
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A nice climb, but currently a little dirty.
The PG13 rating is based on climbing straight up to the first bolt via the 11a face. That would be thin and a little scary to make that first clip, I would guess. Use a stick clip if you value your ankles, which would make the climb G-rated, as would doing the more common, easier start to the right. The easier start is 5.8 or 5.9 and makes the climb 5.10 overall (the guide says 5.10c, I thought 5.10a).
Bring a standard, light rack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: J. Nickel When: Jul 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The bolt on the first pitch has been replaced and looks good.


Location: NY : Lake Luzerne : Potash Cliff : Black Dog (5.12a) : Photo
By: J. Nickel When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: Photo by Gary Thomann


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Maestro (5.10c)
By: J. Nickel When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: The route is PG for sure, and I thought it was harder than C-tips or Menace to Sobriety. Not a route that you want to climb in full sun, either. All that said, it's brilliant slab climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Shanty Girl (5.6)
By: J. Nickel When: Nov 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Regarding top roping through the fixed gear: I realize that this is a polarizing topic, but from a safety standpoint I wouldn't recommend attaching carabiners to the drop-in style cold shuts found on many of the routes at Shanty Cliff. I suppose it might work to girth hitch or clove hitch a sling to the cold shut, but a carabiner runs the risk of twisting and coming unclipped. I would suggest using the cold shuts directly in this case. On a side note, if any of the fixed gear at Shanty is lo... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Positive Latitude (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Oct 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The nuts for the hangers on the bolts at the first belay need tightening. Maybe someone could bring a wrench up if I don't get a chance?
Outstanding face climbing on this one!


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Divine Wind / All the Nasti... (5.8+ R)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch up to the two-bolt anchor is reasonably protected with decent-looking Petzl bolts and is about 5.7. You can toprope the first pitch of All the Nasties (5.9 with well-spaced protection) from this anchor if desired.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Malice In Bucketland (5.9-)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A classic, but the bolts and hangers are getting quite old and should be replaced.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face Angling Crack? (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this crack with my friend Ben in about 1993. We started up the off width and left-angling crack for about 30' or so and then lowered off, placing two drilled pins to protect a variation start on a short arete to the left of the off width. I remember the climbing on the variation as interesting and about 5.9 or 5.10. I'm not sure if the pins are still there or not, as I haven't been back since. If the gear is still there, it's worth doing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Ape Call (5.8 R)
By: J. Nickel When: Nov 2, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Led this route on Friday onsight. I vote for 5.8 R. The gear protecting the crux moves to the good holds above the slab would be unlikely to hold a fall. This would result in an awkward ground fall from about 15' up.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)
By: J. Nickel When: Sep 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: We did the first four pitches yesterday with the straight up variation on the third pitch. The route is fantastic. Beautiful thin crack and corner climbing.
We had 2 ropes for rappelling, but it looked to me like a single 70M rope would get you down.
Bring RP's and wires and many finger sized cams. I don't think that we placed anything bigger than a green Camalot on the route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Land's End (Direct) (5.9 PG13)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch has good climbing, but I'd call it 5.9+. There is also an R-rated runout on 5.7 terrain past a very questionable flake. A large cam (blue Camalot or larger) is handy for the arching crack after the runout. Also, the anchor at the top of the first pitch consists of two old pins, two ancient tricams, and an extra-crispy sling hanging down from a tie-off, all tied together with slings and rings of uncertain vintage. It can be backed up fairly easily, but bear this in mind ... more >>


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