Point Rank: # 5,279
Total Points: 50
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
How do you get points?
| Areas are worth 15 |
| Routes are worth 10 |
| Photos are worth 5 |
| Comments are worth 1 |
Where has J. Nickel been climbing?
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Contributions
| All (63) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (2) | Comments (10) | Posts (39) | Stars (8) | Ratings (1) | | Page 1 of 3. 1 2 3 Next> |
Contributed Routes |
| Name |
Rating |
Type |
Location |
Useful To |
Date |
Interstice | 5.10d (13) | Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet, Grade II | NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... | | May 24, 2008 |
Eastertime Too | 5.8 (31) | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet | NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... | | Jul 25, 2006 |
Frustration Syndrome | 5.10c (33) | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet | NY : The Gunks : ... : k. The Slime Wall | | May 17, 2006 |
Contributed Comments | | |
|---|
Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Divine Wind / All the Nasti... (5.8+ R)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> | Comments: The first pitch up to the two-bolt anchor is reasonably protected with decent-looking Petzl bolts and is about 5.7. You can toprope the first pitch of All the Nasties (5.9 with well-spaced protection) from this anchor if desired.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Malice In Bucketland (5.9-)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> | Comments: A classic, but the bolts and hangers are getting quite old and should be replaced.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face Angling Crack? (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: I climbed this crack with my friend Ben in about 1993. We started up the off width and left-angling crack for about 30' or so and then lowered off, placing two drilled pins to protect a variation start on a short arete to the left of the off width. I remember the climbing on the variation as interesting and about 5.9 or 5.10. I'm not sure if the pins are still there or not, as I haven't been back since. If the gear is still there, it's worth doing.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff
By: J. Nickel When: Sep 24, 2010 | view comment >> | Comments: See thomannengineering.web.officelive.com/ShantyCliff.aspx for another short description of the cliff. Also, look at the rest of Gary's website for more destinations in the Southern Adirondacks.
Edited - sorry, old link, see Jim's comment below
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Ape Call (5.8 R)
By: J. Nickel When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Led this route on Friday onsight. I vote for 5.8 R. The gear protecting the crux moves to the good holds above the slab would be unlikely to hold a fall. This would result in an awkward ground fall from about 15' up.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)
By: J. Nickel When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: We did the first four pitches yesterday with the straight up variation on the third pitch. The route is fantastic. Beautiful thin crack and corner climbing.
We had 2 ropes for rappelling, but it looked to me like a single 70M rope would get you down.
Bring RP's and wires and many finger sized cams. I don't think that we placed anything bigger than a green Camalot on the route.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Land's End (Direct) (5.9 PG13)
By: J. Nickel When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: The first pitch has good climbing, but I'd call it 5.9+. There is also an R-rated runout on 5.7 terrain past a very questionable flake. A large cam (blue Camalot or larger) is handy for the arching crack after the runout. Also, the anchor at the top of the first pitch consists of two old pins, two ancient tricams, and an extra-crispy sling hanging down from a tie-off, all tied together with slings and rings of uncertain vintage. It can be backed up fairly easily, but bear this in mind ... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Bird Cage (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> | Comments: When I led this route a year or two ago, there was no good anchor above the roof to rappel from. Recently, I led up the corner and traversed right to the Birdland anchor, skipping the dramatic roof moves. This was a really good pitch at about 5.9+ and allows for an easy descent. I think that it would also be possible to continue up the second pitch of Birdland from above the roof.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Retribution (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Jun 5, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: A great route! 5.10b, three stars, PG gear (a reasonably safe onsight lead). Not as sustained as Nosedive but with a harder crux.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Star Action (5.10b)
By: J. Nickel When: Jun 2, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: As of 5/26/06 there is one piton remaining on the route. It is on the face under the crux in a horizontal. It looks ok and is easily backed up with a #1 TCU. The crux protects well with a yellow Alien or equivalent. Bring gear to a #2 Camalot.
I led the route in one pitch and had no problems with rope drag. A great route! Three stars.
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Contributed Forum Posts |
| Topic Title |
Forum |
Author |
Date |
| re: Gunks Friday 3/29 | Eastern and Southern States | J. Nickel | Mar 26, 2013 |
| re: The best cracks of the north east | Eastern States | J. Nickel | Feb 3, 2013 |
| Partner this Friday 10/5 for Gunks or Adirondacks | Eastern States | J. Nickel | Oct 3, 2012 |
| re: gunks partner for this friday | Eastern States | J. Nickel | Oct 3, 2012 |
| re: gunks partner for this friday | Eastern States | J. Nickel | Oct 3, 2012 |
| Gunks or Adirondacks Partner for Friday 10/5 | Eastern and Southern States | J. Nickel | Oct 3, 2012 |
| re: rock routes recommendations for Adirondack | Eastern States | J. Nickel | Jun 25, 2012 |
| re: TC PRO Vs. Miura | Climbing Gear Discussion | J. Nickel | Jun 14, 2012 |
| re: The Prow and The VMC Direct free climbing beta... | Eastern States | J. Nickel | May 20, 2012 |
| re: Need Climbing Partner between 13-16 April for Gunks | Eastern States | J. Nickel | Mar 30, 2012 |
| | Page 1 of 3. 1 2 3 Next> |
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