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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Stonequest (5.8+ R)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. A couple of comments....
Big thanks to Jeff and Josh for replacing or beefing up the aging hardware on this thing; very much appreciated. The climbing and rock on this route is varied, consistent, and outstanding; hand cracks, seams, featured face, and runout smearing are all here.
One of the comments above states that this route may be a little heady for the budding leader. I would actually say that this route is not a good route for a new leader at all. I... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : Go Runout and Pray (5.10a X)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi John,
Thanks for adding this route. It would be nice if you could add some additional info, i.e. stating that the route is on Power Dome is not sufficient information to find the climb. It kinda sounds like you don't have any info because you didn't do the route. In general (though not always), it is best to have actually climbed the route before posting it. That way, you can include details about finding the route, descending the route, protection, etc.
Cheers.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Pale Face (5.11+)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely outstanding route. One of the better 11+'s I have climbed in NM. Superior movement and rock. In particular, the shallow dihedral is stellar. Cheers to Aaron and Rick for the time and effort to put this up.
A couple of things regarding finding the climb and the rock quality that Anthony mentioned. I looked around quite a bit and I could not find the "plaque" that is mentioned by Marc. Nevertheless, the route description above is sufficient to find the climb (though the route is probab... more >>
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall
By: J. Albers When: Jan 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: To whomever is stashing their tarp near the Winter Wall:
Please consider NOT stashing your tarp in the bushes below the wall. While I understand that Diablo is dusty and tarps are nice (I have used them in the past), stashing them in the bushes is problematic for a number of reasons.
1) It makes the place look trashy. I know that the NM climbing community is relatively small, but if everyone stashed a tarp, the place would look like crap....and no, just because the locals occasionally dump a s... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Inflight Movie (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would agree with Mono about this route being quite good; it climbs without any of the awkwardness that is suggested in the books. Good rock and good movement; perhaps a bit easier than Monsterpiece. Thanks to whoever replaced the upper hardware on this thing.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Monsterpiece Theatre (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed MT again recently and I noticed that one of anchor bolts is an old bolt that is sealed with epoxy or glue. There are quite a number of bolts in the southern Sierra that sport this kind of setup; essentially, the bolter was trying to keep the elements out and prolong the life of the bolt. Unfortunately, the end result is that the epoxy actually holds the moisture in. When folks started rebolting to update hardware, they found that what looked like a decent bolt from the outsid... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Scandanavian Airlines (5.10c)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is such a pile that it hardly seems worth commenting on, but since my comment really applies to the whole area, I will say it anyway.
I truly appreciate the effort of whomever replaced one of the aging bolts on this thing, but in the future, please consider doing a better job getting the old stud out and camouflaging the old hole. The stud that remains at the third bolt is a real eyesore and if all of the bolts at WR were replaced in such a manner, the cliffs would look hideous.
If ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Gallows Pole (direct) (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the input Sal. I actually think there can be quite a big difference between an "easy" 11d and a "hard" 12a. Perhaps for you it is splitting hairs though, which is fine. Cheers.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Dec 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brilliant.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Opus 7 (5.11d)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is damn hard slab. I would love to call this 5.12 if not for the fact that I have been on 11b slabs in the Valley that are a kick in the pants like this thing is.
11d/12a is probably fair, but this ain't no sport climb. I could be swayed to upping my grade to 12a if others felt that way, but as it seems, very few folks have given this a grade.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Gallows Pole (direct) (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I graded this thing 11d, but I could very easily be convinced that this should be 5.12. I will wait and see what others think before changing my grade though. Suffice to say, at any sport crag, this route is solid 12a.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite a fun route that would make a great intro to multi-pitch climbing for those looking to get into it. I thought the climbing was probably no harder than 5.8 and not very sustained at that. Fun for what it is...a relaxing, moderate, sport outing.
Also, a note about the bolts. It is my opinion that many of the closely spaced bolts reflect the ledgy nature of this route. My guess is that the route developers spaced some of the bolts closely to prevent busted ankles in the event of a fall. I kn... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Dec 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Must have been amazing. Nice work Robert.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : The Broken Arrows : Perp Area : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Dec 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job with the photo stich Mono.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Dec 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice. Great perspective.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Stiff Upper Lip (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the first roof was maybe 11c/d and the second roof was 12a...especially if you are short. Darren is right about clipping the anchors at your chest. I worry that the huge section of rock that makes up the jug before the final hard section will eventually come out...I pity the fools who around for that disaster.
If any locals are heading up there, the anchors could stand to be tightened down (I hand tightened the right bolt a couple of days ago).
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Location: General Climbing : Three Generations : Post : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job Mike.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Big Chief : Center Wall : Wampum (5.7)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Colin, this thing is awkward if I recall. You get a handjam or something and then thrutch up a few moves, at which point the climbing at the grade is more or less over. I probably wouldn't do it again.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Bird Brain Boulevard (WI5 M6) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a cool photo, Kris. Now, if you just pretend that the rock looks solid and that the ice is actually bonded well, then this pitch looks like casual fun!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Courtright Reservoir : Trapper Dome : Sex Wall : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photos Dave. Quick question. I see the first bolt and from looking at the other picture, it looks like the second clip is another 10 feet or so above (seems like that puts you out maybe 25 feet or so). How far below the first bolt is the ground? (i.e. if you blow the second clip, are you going to deck or just get banged up?
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Moonrise Variation (5.10d) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I know what you are saying; I too prefer when I can get a shot of someone leading as opposed to TR'ing. Still though, the contrast of colors between the rock and the landscape is quite beautiful and is a surely worth posting for others to see. Cheers, man.
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Location: J. Albers : Shuteye Ridge : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Brad.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, you can indeed see the water on the other photo that you linked. I've been up there twice and its always been bone dry. Pretty cool that you got to see water up there.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Moonrise Variation (5.10d) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, nice job, Brian. Great job framing the picture; the background adds a lot to the image.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In any case, leading FCD is proud. Cheers.
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