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Rock Climbing Photo: Bucky


Member Since: Jul 11, 2008
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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J. Albers
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Point Rank: # 291
Total Points: 2,233
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 0
42 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J. Albers been climbing?










Contributions


All 3288 | Routes 44 | Areas 9 | Photos 240 | Page Improvements | Comments 458 | Posts 1245 | Stars 688 | Ratings 604
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena
By: J. Albers When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^
That's Hailstone at the top I believe, so yes, you have identified those correctly. And they are in Jimi's recent book, check it out:

jimthornburg.com/bay-area-rock...


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: (laughing)
I don't even know the guy who was 'bombing' your climbs, so you're barking up the wrong tree there. And if you want to be all snotty about it, the only climb of yours that I bombed (the "12a" with the big cobble) was a climb I casually onsighted, so no, I wasn't scared....just dirty from all the mud. Have a good day!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: ....says the guy who bolts mud.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: Nice work, Mark.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Deville Rocks : Deville 3
By: J. Albers When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Hey Buster,
Thanks for the note about the rockfall. Any idea which aspects of the formation (route areas) the rockfall occurred on?
Cheers.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area
By: J. Albers When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^ Stephane,

here is the guidebook for the area:

maximuspress.com/shop/proddeta...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : G3 (5.11a)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Really fun route. The moves through the roof don't look 10+ from below, but it's all there on great features. Regarding the loose flake that Bernard mentioned, I gave it a tap when I arrived under the roof and decided that I didn't want to pull on it. Luckily you can simply undercling out right a bit (super positive undercling) and then make a big but super fun move up to the jugs over the roof. This is a totally reasonable solution that negates the need for the loose flake. Done this way the ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Berlin Wall : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 27, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ said the peanut gallery who have most likely never sent nor FA'ed anything like what the gent in the pic is setting up. Pipe down unless you have been on the route and can comment on it from a first hand perspective.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : High Eagle : Main Wall : Illuminati (5.12b)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Such amazing stone....so good.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Snapping Station (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ Having the anchor higher anchor adds, well, fun, 5.10, slab climbing on good rock. There are definitely some routes at DH that would be better with lower anchors (some stuff on Crimpfest comes to mind), but this is not one of those routes. Personally, I am glad the anchor is higher.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure (5.13a) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: Huh, that is interesting news because the last time I got on this I remember thinking to myself that this sequence felt harder than it had before. I thought it was just my pathetic weakness, but I guess not that was not the only factor (grin). Bummer. As tbol says though, I certainly still goes because I was able to do it....did feel sharp though.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Mayfield Canyon Towers : ... : Chicken Delight (5.6 R)
By: J. Albers When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Wow, beautiful rock. Interesting that this rock is on the Eastside because it looks like the crazy featured stuff that occurs in the Southern Sierra (Shuteye, King's Canyon, etc.) Cool to know that this exists.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Gun Street : The Aspen Glade : All He's Ever Gonna Have (5.10a)
By: J. Albers When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: One of the best at its grade at the Iris. Thanks a ton for the new routes Lightner clan.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10+) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: I remember this rap setup. While I appreciate the effort and money that went into the anchor updates, I think this setup is a bad choice. The integrity of the whole setup boils down to some hardware store screwed pin link. Why in the world you would do this when simply adding a couple quick links and leaving the anchors chains hanging separately would allow you to thread each anchor point independently, thus having a redundant anchor that doesn't rely on the hardware store pin.

And on top of ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Black Wave Wall : A Woman Scorned (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: I would agree with Slim on this one. Really great route but probably more like 11a.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Velcro Wall : Bolted Route (5.7)
By: J. Albers When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: @ Daniel ^^^

I certainly understand your sentiment regarding the lack of holds and feeling of desperation (some of my scariest moments in climbing have been run out on pure friction). Still, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the combination of low angle climbing and abundant friction on this section of wall negates the need for any holds at all if you have your friction game dialed. When I did this pitch last fall (2014), I thought the route was about 5.6. I don't say that to be a sandbag... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Comment : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: It was the USFS, Tony. They closed the area for a bunch of weeks so they could clear it (...and it was really closed, because there was a fine if you were caught violating). Having walked through it myself, I can say that they did a serious amount of work, because there were a sh*t ton of huge trees that needed to be cut and cleared.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: ^^^fruitloop

How exactly are her excuses poor? Because she didn't want to dig around in a campsite occupied by three big dudes who may or may not take very kindly to a stranger f'ing with their gear? What if they were drunk rednecks? Or worse, drunk armed rednecks? Let me clue you in about how much burly rednecks like being "corrected"....I have interacted with such folks growing up back home and on the Eastside, and believe you me, it might not end well. And what about the bear? You really exp... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Weathering Heights Dome : Bolt Hunter (5.11a)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the post, but one question...
If there is no anchor at the top, is there a tree or do you need a small selection of gear?
Cheers.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Razor Back : Flash of the Blade (5.10a R)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^

I think that for the most part Tim is right about the climbing not being run out, at least for the 5.8-10a climbing that is. However, there are two sections (one leaving the ground and one leaving the first pitch belay), where you have to climb 20+ feet of 5.5-5.7 where if you fell you would either hit the ground or a slab....either way you would almost certainly break some bones. Is the "run out" climbing a couple of number grades below the route grade? Sure. Is the "run out" climbing clo... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Isostacy (5.8 R)
By: J. Albers When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: So I was thinking about Jeff's comment in the context of the routes that Todd listed as standard Meadows 'R' and the one that jumped out at me was South Crack. The reason being is that I would certainly agree that South Crack is 'R' (and I think this is generally the consensus) but the 'R' rated portion of SC is certainly not at the grade of the climb...IIRC, the crack was 5.8 ish and the runout was 5.4 ish? Anyway, I guess my opinion is that the 'R' rating is pretty subjective unless you are at... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate
By: J. Albers When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: @^^^^ Gneiss.

I own the Rakkup app and Tod's book, and I certainly appreciate his and other's hard work at DH. That said, posting an area without directions and then telling someone to go buy an app to find their way is kind of lame.

...on the other hand, the selfish side of my brain is glad you didn't post directions, because that means less people. Bad brain. Bad.

Also, to be clear Gneiss, I do appreciate you posting the routes up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Two Minute Warning (5.11c/d)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: I would have to disagree with Tony about climbing this without the first bolt clipped, especially if you are short. If you blow that section -- which is one of the cruxes of the route -- your ankles would eat a pretty big sh*t sandwich. Moreover, I agree with the Mr. Huggins that the bolt placement is probably in the ideal spot as a bolt any lower would be pretty pointless given the climbing in that section. Just preclip it and forget about it.

I guess the climbing on this has a couple nice mov... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Lost and Found (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: ^^^
Funny you should comment on this, Jason, because I climbed this a few days ago and was going to comment on how my partner and I appreciated the location of the new bolts. To be clear, I never climbed the route pre-update, but from the looks of the old bolt hole location under the roof, my partner and I both concluded that this bolt was probably moved to the right because the location of the old bolt caused the rope to run over the sharp arete edge. In contrast, the new placements leave the r... more >>


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Willard (Ice) : Trestle Area : Elephant Head Gully (WI3+)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Robert,
To be honest with you, I gave this route 3+ only because of the book consensus. I would have given it 3- tops if it was just me. In places like Cody, this would not get a 3...though I'm not sure that Cody is a fair comparison because things there are on the stout side. Still, I think 3+ is fairly generous.


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