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Member Since: Aug 28, 2009
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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J Achey
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Point Rank: # 3,813
Total Points: 156
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J Achey been climbing?










Contributions


All 90 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 23 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 50 | Stars 3 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Shoshone Power Plant Area : The Shoshone Stones : ... : The Jug (V4)
By: J Achey When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: Stephen - find a copy of that old guidebook. Someone you know surely has one. All the "old" beta is in there, at least the named problems worth remembering, but here's a summary: The Shovel (which you call Atlantis) and Duck Boulders were named after flotsam or discarded tools found on or near. Pulaski, on the Shovel Boulder, has worthy V6 and V7 variation that begin from sit starts on the far left and far right, respectively. The Duck Boulder route you have sketched in for what you call the Nar... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Shoshone Power Plant Area : The Shoshone Stones : ... : The Jug (V4)
By: J Achey When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Pretty sure the route you're calling The Jug is the slippery, riverside face of the boulder originally called the Jug, FA about 2002. Seems like most of the Shoshone Stone route names in this section are new/wrong. Check the old (2008) Rifle Mountain Park and Western CO Rock Climbs guidebook, page 155 - it mentions most of the routes described here (I think, but it's hard to tell - every rock should have at least one good topo picture, guys). Most of the obvious lines up to V7 were done by a Car... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : Stardust (5.11+)
By: J Achey When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Awesome, Mary, you climbed this about 3 times faster than the rest of us - nice work! So since you found it fairly casual maybe you should try some of the harder and chossier routes on the wall. First do the Kor Mudwall, then call me!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Pup Tent of Solitude : Total Eclipse (5.12a)
By: J Achey When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Mike, I remember struggling with this thing until I found a hidden edge out on the arete to the right, gained from "#2," I think. If that's not the "crimp" in your diagrams, see if it helps.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Pup Tent of Solitude : Jennifer's World (5.11c)
By: J Achey When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Rob, the route is kinda named after that (awesome) climb at Sunset and for my girlfriend at the time, Jennifer.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Pup Tent of Solitude : Jennifer's World (5.11c)
By: J Achey When: Mar 1, 2014

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Comments: All the fixed pins that kept falling out have now been replaced with bolts, so this route is safe again!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Main Elk Crag : Howl Roof (5.12)
By: J Achey When: Mar 1, 2014

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Comments: Definitely "5.11+" ....


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grey Slabs : Sugar Pop (5.10d)
By: J Achey When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Nope, Mike, wrong route - you are thinking of The Thread. Sugar Pop is all bolts, steeper, and less runout.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : Mudflap Girl (5.10)
By: J Achey When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Tom - Glad you enjoyed the route. I'm not sure from your account what you're calling "pitch 5," but there is an off-route bolt out right at the top of the steep corner on the "crux" pitch, before you would traverse left to pull the roof with the pin above it.

There are a lot of ways to combine pitches. I think it is a good idea, especially as this route ages, for parties to carry a hammer to reset any loose pins if necessary.

Once you find the start of the descent down the gully to the north... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Plastic Prince (5.11c)
By: J Achey When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: All the old hardware including anchors on Plastic Prince and Local Talent (route to the L) now replaced with Wave Bolt glue-ins. The old hardware was really bad!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : The Neighborhood : Zipper Buttress : California Dreamin' (5.9+)
By: J Achey When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: Well, I climbed this route again over the weekend, after a long absence, and, yes, another pin has fallen out (I'd already replaced one with a bolt, higher in the dihedral, a few years ago). The route, as is, is pretty dangerous, with a big runout above another pin, which is dubious. Mike said he wanted to replace the pins - great, Mike, the sooner the better.

So ... sorry, local climbers, about the old-school equipping. It has taken me a while to get comfortable bolting cracks or gear placemen... more >>



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