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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guenese (5.11a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Belaying accident: I had a strange accident when belaying Lisa Apprill on Guenese a couple of weeks ago.
Lisa had asked me to move my belay from down and right to just below the start. I was sitting on a comfy flat rock a couple of feet left of the first pin. Lisa had a lot of trouble clipping the second bolt. Because of that she was extra tired moving left to the third bolt. She fell, and I was immediately airborne, despite outweighing Lisa by 40-50 pounds.
I figure I was lifted up maybe just... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Acrophile : Dead Deer Cracks (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb was hard for me. I used a handstack followed by a fist jam to get past the crux. Smaller hands may have more difficulty. Gillett's description made it sound like the crux would be twin finger cracks, but the finger cracks are relatively easy and also are not really cracks, but rather occasional openings in parallel seams.
I used a gray Camalot (new #4, old #3.5) at the wide section followed by a #2 in the back of the crack. Above that there is an optional but bomber... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe that bolt above the Metamorphosis midway belay is meant to protect the traverse left into Urine Trouble. It was replaced recently.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Overpass (5.11c) : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seems to me he's working up to the third bolt rather than the second. The second bolt is visible between his legs.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : East Ridge : R.N.R (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently R.N.R. stands for Rednecks in Rome. The FA may have been done by Alvino Pon. In the Rossiter Eldo guide, Rossiter says that the info for this area came from Alvino via an article in Rock and Ice #54. Alvino is responsible for many climbs in St Vrain Canyon.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Nose Drops (5.9-)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: See the two October 2008 photos under Ursula. We climbed straight up to those pins at about 5.9. I don't know anything more than that.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Vergin' on Perversion (5.11c R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 is good by itself as a long 10 mixed section to the 11a bolted crux. There were several hard moves on the 10 section with some funky rock. There was one runout near the top where you start a 9 sequence with the gear below your feet. You may be able to sling a thin and doubtful flake on the right if you are tall enough. There are 3 bolts near the bottom and 3 bolts at the 11a crux plus another higher bolt. I used gear to a gold Camalot. There may be placements for bigger cams to #4 Camal... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Asahi (5.10c R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this yesterday for the second time. The first crux seemed quite easy, perhaps since I knew to stay high. There was another confusing crux higher moving right to the arête. Both Lenny and I thought P2 was as hard or harder than P1. It was definitely more insecure.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Triples are not too much! We carried triple Camalots from .75 to 3 and double 4s (old 3.5) and ran out of gear on P2 and P5. On P2, after placing a mediocre small piece--almost my last piece of any size--up and right of the belay, I downclimbed about 40' to retrieve enough gear to belay off to the left. On P4 I used all of the hand-sized cams despite trying to skip pieces. P5 really wants 4 or 5 gold Camalots. We had three this year, and Chuck had to lower twice to back clean.
This climb feels ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Arcanum (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I looked up the definition of "arcanum" and found this:
"1. mysterious or specialized knowledge, language, or information accessible or possessed only by the initiate—usually used in plural."
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Elder Cleavage Direct (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new Williams guide (brown Dick? maroon Dick?) describes P2 incorrectly. The original P2 went up an obvious 5.8 jagged crack that had been done earlier as a variation of a nearby route. That 5.8 crack was one of the "cleavages" that led to the name Elder Cleavage.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Void Where Prohibited (5.11+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interestingly, the Swain guide lists the FA as Rich Romano, and Red Dick lists the FA as Rezucha. I'm pretty sure Rich and I did the first full ascent including the upper pitch, which I led with sucky gear, but it's likely Rich had done the bottom crux earlier. I don't remember "a climber from New Hampshire". If Rich had done the crux earlier, it was with someone else, perhaps this New Hampshire person.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Mac-Reppy (5.11a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This used to be 5.8 before a flake pulled off in the now-crux corner. It's 5.8 in blue Dick... I did it as an 8 and as an 11. It's well worth aiding the 11 crux and doing it as an 8 A0.
I remember the first time I did the upper part I did a full 360 degree turn around as I stemmed the upper corner.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry... (5.11b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're tall for the upper moves--around 6'--and climb just left of the first two bolts, this is about 10b. Fun climbing, but I was a little annoyed at having to decide whether to climb the obvious rock with holds just left of, and within reach of, the first few bolts, or to climb straight up at the bolts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ichiban Arete (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Compared to nearby sandbag 9+'s Deviant and Highway of Diamonds, this climb is very easy. With double ropes, the initial traverse is safe and not at all scary. I then downclimbed a bit and traversed out. I didn't see the Tri Cam placement that Tony mentioned, but there's a sinker brass nut in the thin vertical crack to protect the move up to the first bolt.I clipped my left rope a little too high up the corner and so had some drag after I rounded the arete. It would have been better to clip the ... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Elder Cleavage Direct (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent was NOT Annie O'Neill. Maybe Rod Schwartz? I forget!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is currently a very nice, large and extremely clear photo of the Elephant Buttresses at the Boulder Library as part of the ditch exhibit. All of the popular climbs are very visible. It's worth a look. The history of the Silver Lake Ditch and the other ditches is very interesting. There's a working model of the two "tram lines" used to move the pipes during the 2008 rebuild of the pipe below Elephant Buttresses.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Unknown 10c (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lenny Miller led this yesterday by stick clipping the first bolt and then climbing slightly right of the bolt and pulling really hard on the good hold at the base of the tiny, left-facing corner. I followed it completely differently by pulling on a two tip pocket with my right hand and rocking up and left to end up standing and in balance on the higher part of the starting ledge. I then smeared up on crimps and stepped far right. Both ways seemed very hard for 10c judging by the noise Lenny was ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few days ago, I had to re-climb this on TR to get a nut out. I lowered to the ground to get the nut tool, got the nut, and then, at the mantle move, moved left and up over a featured face into a left facing corner that led to the upper easy climbing. Fun climbing, but it would be pretty runout on the lead. I saw some chalk down and left that looked like someone was considering climbing straight up to the left-facing corner, but there's a pretty blank steep section blocking the way.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Transcontinental Nailway (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a "direct" John Bragg 5.10 P2 that goes, I think, more or less straight up after the P1 anchors. I know it's up there somewhere, but I can't picture it. It's been a while...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I self belayed this (again) yesterday and didn't bring any trad gear. That was a mistake. There are a couple of big runouts between bolts. In particular, after the first crux is a groundfall runout on medium difficult climbing.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs : White Shores (5.10a/b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gillett gives this 3 stars, but I'd say 2, since it's still pretty dirty. The undercling left at the start was pretty exciting. If you're tall enough, the crux at the second bolt is not the crux. You can place a #0.75/Green Camalot and a ~1/4" nut (blue HB Offset) to protect clipping the 4th bolt, which seemed placed a bit too high even for me at 6'2. I was able to stand on the base of the sketchy small try and stretch to clip.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Union with Earth (5.10b/c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Feb 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley 1980 as per Rossiter.
The roof is exciting--you have to convince yourself that your feet will stick on the very overhanging left wall of the corner. There are a few fun moves up the corner above to reach the anchors on the left. We continued up the upper, left-facing corner/hand crack. That was a bit of a thrutch at 5.8 or 5.9, but well protected.
Rolofson calls this climb 10d and shows 2 bolts excluding the anchors on the 12 to the left. Rossiter calls it... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was 11+ when my brother Paul and I both redpointed it on my birthday in the early 90s. It's now the hardest rated climb I've done, but I think redpointing Kligfield's Follies was subjectively the hardest climb I've redpointed.
There's a flake at the crux (out of the picture to the right--the roof is much bigger than the photo shows it to be) that you can grab with your toes. When I did it I had at least one bare foot to grab that flake. The bare feet suck when you get to the foot jams depi... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Haywire (5.9+ R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was very hard for 9+, more like somewhere in difficulty between Over the Hill and the dihedral on Aerial Book. In fact, I hung more on this than when leading Aerial Book! Perhaps that was because I was thinking 5.9 and then got demoralized. Place a couple of small cams in the upper corner to prevent your wires from lifting up as the corner steepens and leans right. The bottom roof was a little spooky, due to the crusty rock and not being able to see where you were going.
We belay... more >>
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