Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Sonny Jim (5.11b)
By: Ignacio When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As a 5' 6" climber, I had NO FUN in the crux move and couldn't pull it on my last visit, I know exactly what you mean. :-)
I found the 2nd bolt placement rather odd, too, I wonder if the rock was not good further right?
|
Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Window Rock Wall : Afterburner (5.9)
By: Ignacio When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: May want to update this entry, there are actually bolted anchors on top, with chains. They are past the roof up a short slabby section. Also, the crack can take up to #1 at one point. It's probably safer to put a sling around the horn sticking out sideways at the top of the roof since if you slip getting out of the roof you'll be hitting the slab pretty hard.
|
Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Titanic Boulder : TNC Forever (5.10b)
By: Ignacio When: May 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wish it wouldn't be so short! Nice, bouldery moves. Great warm up for Cracked Rib next to it.
|
Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Triple Decker (5.8)
By: Ignacio When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rope drag can be a real [drumroll] drag on this route. Seriously. I wish I've read the recommendation of making it two pitches before. Even with the draws extended on every piece of pro, the drag gets terrible towards the top.
|
Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Confederate Cracks : Hackberry Crack (5.9+)
By: Ignacio When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So far my favorite trad route at the ranch. As with any crack, the experience varies depending on your hand size, but it felt like a sustained 5.9+ to me past the first 15ft or so. Good practice for cupped hands and elbow jamming.
|
Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott : Full Cavity Search (5.8)
By: Ignacio When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very awkward climb, but still a lot of fun. It has the same feeling of High Anxiety (you look up and there seems to be NOTHING there to hold on to, until you reach) only that on a dihedral. I also agree with the suggested rating, the 5.7 in the guidebook seems a bit sandbagged for this route.
WARNING: On 09/24/11, one small block of rock about half way up was moving a bit. Seems safe enough for now, but something to watch out for.
|
Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott : Mr. Clean (5.8)
By: Ignacio When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with Andy, it is the best 5.8 lead in the refuge.
|
Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Cotton Candy (5.6)
By: Ignacio When: May 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool option for a first sport lead.
|
Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Confederate Cracks : Treebeard (5.8)
By: Ignacio When: May 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook suggests a 5.7 rating for this route but it felt to me like a solid 5.8, talking to other climbers that sent this one that seems to be the general consensus as well.
|
Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Green Goblin (5.8)
By: Ignacio When: May 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sustained 5.8, nice moves, great route.
|
Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : African Herbman (5.8)
By: Ignacio When: May 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb on moderate jugs, true to grade. A new favorite of mine!
|
RSS Feed
