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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Infectious (5.13)
By: iancevans When: May 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wasn't puffy weather today when Matt sent with the sun beating on the slopey rail. After the break, anyway, the crux is 6-8 moves of compression bouldering checking in around V8. We found a no-hands rest before the crux, which slightly detracts from the quality.
The route is fun and unique for Lemmon; nothing to write home about, but "if you have the means, I highly recommend it."
Nice work, Matt.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Jewel Thief (V10)
By: iancevans When: Mar 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Heist completed.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Irresistable (5.12b)
By: iancevans When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the one that has it's own set of anchors to the right of Delirious, or is this the one that continues right all the way over to the anchors on the Breeze?
In the McMillen guide, the one that goes all the way over to the Breeze anchors is 12b and called "Simply Irresistible," while the one that goes to its own anchors right of Delirious is 12c and is called "Irresistible."
Hoping to get on one of the two in a few days...
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Delirious (5.12a)
By: iancevans When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You may have been off route WAGbag...? It pretty much goes straight up after the second or third bolt... there are a couple of other lines that branch off right (Simply Irresistable, and Irresistable) with some bolts close together that could lead to confusion. I don't know if I can give it the full four stars, but 1 star is pretty stingy -- as good as almost any 12a on Lemmon. So it seems to me, anyway.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Danny Likes Men (5.10+)
By: iancevans When: May 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm happy the bolt's there. I like my warmups mild, my projects hard, and my post-redpoint burrito spicy.
Very fun route.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Dwarf Toss (5.12c)
By: iancevans When: May 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fittingly, the first-ascentionist is a (poorly) paid academic.
The Dwarf Toss beta is plainly superior. Good of you to leave both bolts, John.... never been on a route with two bolts at the same height before.... like a choose your own adventure book!
I like this climb better than either Torito or Demo.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Milagrosa Canyon (La Milagr... : Main Wall : The Wizard (5.12a)
By: iancevans When: Apr 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: 12a is right. I get it now. I wouldn't use it as the Lemmon standard for the grade, though, because the style is fairly unique.
I'm inclined to think Milanoma is 12c, though. Have to go do Right Tissue and see.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Milagrosa Canyon (La Milagr... : The Beach : Eclipse (5.12+)
By: iancevans When: Apr 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clip the chain draw, then skip the next two bolts on redpoint and go for a RIDE when you blow the final easy move to chains!
Very fun, but those jugs are sharp.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Milagrosa Canyon (La Milagr... : The Beach : Milanoma (5.12b/c)
By: iancevans When: Apr 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic. The crux deadpoint is long for me, so I catch the crimp open-handed then have to curl it up into a crimp... super cool! The key for me (and maybe for you, too, Eric) is to use a higher, less obvious left foot and to bump off a poor intermediate.
I couldn't find the crazy secret rest before the upper crux (even though Pete described it to me) so I climbed it without resting.... it's only 35 feet, so why screw up your flow?!
Three cheers for aggressive "cleaning"!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: iancevans When: Nov 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fine climb. If you're a solid 12 climber, it's an excellent warm-up. Gets harder as you get higher, so your muscles don't get shocked right off the deck.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Fiddler on the Woof (5.12a)
By: iancevans When: Nov 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun enough, but the crux is really clipping the bolt after the drilled holds. Dicking around at that bolt cost me the onsight. I skipped it on redpoint. Didn't seem harder than 12a to me.
Keep your eyes out for the no-hands kneebar rest.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Trapezoid (5.13)
By: iancevans When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb actually leaves the Trapeze bolt line after the second bolt and continues on its own independent bolts before joining with Climb With a View.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Trapezoid (5.13)
By: iancevans When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn good climb, but MAN there are a lot of complicated foot sequences to remember.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: iancevans When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...and just before screwing up the complicated foot beta that finishes the first crux.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Party Down (5.11d)
By: iancevans When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Basically a roped boulder problem. Feels V3/4ish, so 12a doesn't seem like a stretch. Hard to give a route grade, though.
I thought it was very fun with nice movement on neat holds. Well worth climbing. Better with the proper low start.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Panther Peak
By: iancevans When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I may have left a pair of 5.10 Dragons (size 9) up there on October 23. Anyone seen them? If anyone heads up there, I'd appreciate it if you could keep your eyes open for them.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Change in Luck (5.12 PG13)
By: iancevans When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: EFR lists this route as .12 (I think) and McMillen has it at 12a. I'm pretty sure it's closer to .12c: crux moves as hard as (or slightly harder than) Right Tissue, but less sustained.
I didn't think the runout traverse into the top of Skid Mark added anything but unnecessary danger to the climb. I'd prefer anchors directly above the line right at the break in the cliff. Still, route is fun enough that it's worth putting up with the runout.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Right Tissue (5.12b)
By: iancevans When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this for the first time today. I counted _two_ terrible crimps, one after the other, the first of which put a nice hole in my right index finger (if you climb it soon you'll see my blood and Matt's blood on most of the holds after the crux).
Rad climb.
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