Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Lion's Chair (5.11a R)
By: Ian G. When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux of the first pitch is clipping the bolt. If you're under 5'10 or have ape index issues it's pretty hard. Once the bolt is clipped, you're golden. If you get sketched about the layback after the second bolt...you have a much easier option...you just have to look "around."
|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Parking Lot Rock : Deforestation (V7+)
By: Ian G. When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haven't topped this one out, but V7 seems a little sandbaggy...
|
Location: OR : Wolf Rock : The Great Arch
By: Ian G. When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This place is awesome. The rock is very unique, although volcanic, it has the texture of sandstone. Most of the routes are dead vertical or slightly slabby. Definitely worth a trip if you climb 5.10.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wawona Tunnel West : Eat at Degnan's (5.9+)
By: Ian G. When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha! I thought that might have been the case. The Reid topo is a little unclear (or I was having a low IQ day). I'll update this when I have the time.
|
Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Hard Body (5.11b)
By: Ian G. When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought the anchors were poorly placed on this one. Unnecessarilly hard to clip.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Skinheads (5.10d)
By: Ian G. When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't know if I'd call this a sport climb. Get's pretty run out...but the hard moves are really well protected.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Vanishing Point (5.10d)
By: Ian G. When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this a couple of years ago. The slings at the belay were kinda gnarly...
|
Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Night Vision (5.11b)
By: Ian G. When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Piton looks suspect. You can place a "good enough" yellow TCU right by it though if you want to back it up.
|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Indian Rock : Mortar Rock : The Ramp (V5)
By: Ian G. When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the old timers told me it was "pinky paralysis"...but that might be wrong. The problem of which you speak is fun though, makes for a more challenging finish to Nat's.
|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Goat Rock State Beach : Sunset Rock : Sunset Traverse (V2)
By: Ian G. When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always started on the right and topped out left...either way...fun.
|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : Main Rock : Hot Tuna (5.12a)
By: Ian G. When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route makes a good "first .12"
|
Location: OR : Rail Road Crag in LO
By: Ian G. When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard thru the grapevine that the railroad considers climbers a liability issue, as usual. I don't know whether they are worried about us getting run over or killing ourselves...Seems kind of silly, especially since those trains run MAYBE once every two days. I wouldn't normally care, because this crag in reality does suck...but I live 5 minutes away.
|
Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Uncola (5.11c)
By: Ian G. When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic!
|
Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8)
By: Ian G. When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can see your reflection on many of the holds...
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : HVCG Bouldering Circuit : ... : Pinhead (V0)
By: Ian G. When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn, some hatin' on this problem. I thought it was fun, just high enough to make you think. Good practice for beginning crack climbers...
|
Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c) : Photo
By: Ian G. When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: GO DUCKS!
|
Location: OR : Bulo Point : Don't Call Me Ishmael (5.11- PG13)
By: Ian G. When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb would be so much better if the anchors were in a different spot. They should have been placed up and around to the right. At the current location they are difficult to clip and detract from the climb as a whole.
|
Location: OR : Bulo Point : Jet Stream (5.9+)
By: Ian G. When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can someone explain how an 80 foot sport route can be a grade V?
|
Location: OR : French's Dome : 'Rhoid Rage (5.12b)
By: Ian G. When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was great! Nothing too tweaky or crimpy, just fun enduro climbing.
|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Fort Ross : Fort Ross - Main Rock : Living a Dream (V6)
By: Ian G. When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: About as classic as classic gets!
|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Indian Rock : Mortar Rock : Over the Bulge (V3 R)
By: Ian G. When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't believe this only gets one star! The moves are fun and the top out is exciting. Definitely helps to have a spotter on this one!
|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Indian Rock
By: Ian G. When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looove Indian Rock! I'm missing it right now. If you live in Berk./Oakland it is such an amazing resource. Many people speak negatively of the place, but you can't really appreciate the place until you realize you can't just hop on your bike, peddle up there, climb, and catch a sunset with friends.
Also, working Nat's Traverse and finally sending it after hard work is one of the most satisfying experiences a climber can have. What an amazing problem.
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : Main Wall : Princely Ambitions (5.9)
By: Ian G. When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.9 mantle is not nearly as hard as it looks. Definitely bring enough slings and use them! I didn't and suffered accordingly...
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Town Wall : Lovin' Arms (5.10c A0)
By: Ian G. When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last pitch has a major loose block right below the tree. Pulling it off would put it right on your belayer.
Also a 70 meter rope does not reach all the way down to the first pitch. You will come up about 10 feet short. My partner found this out the hard way.
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Town Wall : Davis-Holland Route (5.10c)
By: Ian G. When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely classic. Finish with Lovin' Arms for an epic day!
|
RSS Feed
