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The business on Y-Crack Left : 5.10b/c


Member Since: Sep 22, 2006
Last Visit: Jan 13, 2009
Contact Ian Schmit


Point Rank: # 6,742
Total Points: 46
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ian Schmit been climbing?










Contributions


All 68 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 6 | Stars 26 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Jews On Crack

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (11)

Trad, 1 pitch, 130'

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

Apr 10, 2007

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Getting down to business under the roof.

Getting down to business under the roof.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Jews On Crack (5.11)

Apr 10, 2007

Just past the crux in a comfortable stance.

Just past the crux in a comfortable stance.

WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : ... : Y-Crack (aka Old and in the... (5.10c)

Nov 7, 2006

The business on Y-Crack Left : 5.10b/c

The business on Y-Crack Left : 5.10b/c

Ian Schmit : Climbing

Oct 30, 2006

Topping out Upper D.

Topping out Upper D.

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Upper Diagonal (5.9)

Oct 6, 2006

Roger's Roof on a cool September afternoon

Roger's Roof on a cool September afternoon

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Roger's Roof (5.8)

Oct 4, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Match the Snatch (5.12- PG13)
By: Ian Schmit When: Jul 16, 2007

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Comments: Does Match the Snatch start on the ledge with the handcrack leading up to it? I don't know if I was on the route or not but I went left around the arete off the ledge and straight up to the awkward stance then onto the finish of SOGC. Does MtS stay closer to the right arete?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Mammalary Magic (5.10a R)
By: Ian Schmit When: May 6, 2007

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Comments: In the photo you can see the crack I'm talking about. If you split the picture into thirds top to bottom it would be right on the right hand division about three quarters of the way up. I don't think its considered Wobbly but I'm not sure. Where did you put the brassies, Jay?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Face (5.7)
By: Ian Schmit When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: Absolutely awesome route. Good pro.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Dancing Madly Backwards (5.10b PG13)
By: Ian Schmit When: Apr 24, 2007

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Comments: A stellar lead with gear right when you want it. Avoid all gear on the lower portion of the route as I'm fairly sure it wouldn't hold a fall anyway. The final move (crux for me) is really fun on the sharp end. I'd toproped this in the middle of last summer and lead it just recently without any gear beta or really remembering the moves. A competent 5.10 leader on the quartzite should have no trouble dispatching this climb. Get out there and lead it.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Gargantua (5.10b)
By: Ian Schmit When: Apr 24, 2007

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Comments: To whoever said the variation is less than 5.9. Get on the sharp end for a change and do the top out move, then talk. The bottom traverse isn't the crux of the route, the top out is. But on lead the traverse is nice and spicy and feels sufficiently close to 5.9 as you have no gear that would catch you before you dirt.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Mammalary Magic (5.10a R)
By: Ian Schmit When: Apr 24, 2007

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Comments: I gave this a shot for an onsight lead two weekends ago. Got up to the bolt, cinched a stopper behind it as the hanger looks like its made from 1/16" sheet metal, clipped it, made two moves past the bolt, got totally gripped and wound up sliding off right to finish on the top of Wobbly Dihedral. What I'm wondering is if sliding off right before clipping the bolt, placing a piece or two with long runners in the left side crack of the top of Wobbly and then continuing up the slab is an acceptabl... more >>


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne)
By: Ian Schmit When: Dec 18, 2006

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Comments: do any of the harder less well protected lines see leads here?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b)
By: Ian Schmit When: Nov 13, 2006

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Comments: An excellent lead. Fairly sustained but perhaps due to my height I felt it was similar in difficulty to Congratulations.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole : Hammer Crack (5.9)
By: Ian Schmit When: Nov 6, 2006

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Comments: Crux is right off the ground. Eases back to 5.6 handcrack in the upper section.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass : Dippy Diagonal (5.7)
By: Ian Schmit When: Nov 6, 2006

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Comments: Definitely a hand crack. Great stances every few feet to place gear. Protects well with nuts and hexes. Excellent moderate lead.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Coatimundi Crack (5.6)
By: Ian Schmit When: Oct 10, 2006

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Comments: A great climb. Some fixed Rock Empire cams before entering the bulge will give you a laugh. Clip em off and punch up 10 more feet, get some gear and go. The top dihedral has a slightly awkward top out move.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Best heinous grovel-fests at Devil's Lake?MidwestIan SchmitApr 26, 2007
re: Best heinous grovel-fests at Devil's Lake?MidwestIan SchmitApr 26, 2007
re: Best heinous grovel-fests at Devil's Lake?MidwestIan SchmitApr 19, 2007
re: Devil's Lake Accident 4-1-07MidwestIan SchmitApr 3, 2007
re: Devil's Lake Accident 4-1-07MidwestIan SchmitApr 2, 2007
re: Toprope or lead at the Lake?MidwestIan SchmitDec 5, 2006

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Michael's Project 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Many Pines Buttress

Brinton's Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Brinton's Buttress

Coatimundi Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Bill's Buttress

Cheatah 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Bill's Buttress

Congratulations 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pedestal Buttress

Sometime Crack 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pedestal Buttress

Dancing Madly Backwards 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone

The Bone 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Porkchop Buttress

Dippy Diagonal 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Lower Major Mass

Where Lizards Dare 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2

KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall

Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall

Curving Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone

Wobbly Dihedral 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone

Gargantua 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone

Hammer Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole

Birch Tree Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pedestal Buttress

Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Cleopatra's Needle

Darkest Hour 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole

Tower Route 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall

Gill's Crack 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Gill's Buttress

Cracker Jack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Great Chimney Area

Via Apia 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Horse Rampart

Jews On Crack 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

American Beauty Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone

False Perspective 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Misery Rocks

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