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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cedar point : Gomez, Lopez, Fitzgerald (5.11b)
By: Ian Lingley When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hopped on this route the other day and pulled the clipping hold off the crux sequence, where the hold was located became an under-cling. I believe the grade is still 11b maybe 11c, but clipping the second or third bolt could be tricky.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Kamloops : Oregon Jack (cancer tree se...
By: Ian Lingley When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oregon Jack is a fantastic climbing area that is almost completely undeveloped. There are a number of boulder problems but the endless limestone is going to be the main attraction when it is developed. In 2010 Craig Lingley, Nick Price and myself developed about a dozen sport climbs on the left side of the main cliff. I will be returning this summer and will be posting all the climbs here when I return.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Gondola Point : My Mother Is A Half Motorbo... (5.10a)
By: Ian Lingley When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has been over a year but I think you start on jugs to the right, I don't remember it being hard. Ill get out there soon and check it out.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill : ... : Santa's Nightmare (5.9)
By: Ian Lingley When: Aug 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Liam,
Based on your star rating I don't think you have climbed many chimneys. This route is something very different from the typical face climbing in NB and requires true chimney and off-width technique. I would recommend wearing pants and shirt.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Evandale Quarry
By: Ian Lingley When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The below link is from Eric Fox's website, the photos are from the climb Kael's Corner, Classic Corner, Balls to the Wall and Giver.
www.foxtography.ca/Climbing/Evandale-Bouldering/25015368_84Z>>>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Kingston Crag : ... : Dressed For Success (5.11b)
By: Ian Lingley When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is loose rock between the first and second bolt. Some large holds broke off making the 2nd bolt exciting to clip.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Diurnal pegs (5.11+ R)
By: Ian Lingley When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a pin about 10 feet up. If it had a nice landing probably wouldn't be a problem, but with the landing its a little intimidating. The optional photo shows where the pin is and there no obvious crack before it.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : Diurnal pegs (5.11+ R)
By: Ian Lingley When: Aug 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah that's the old 1/4" bolt. It was in a weird spot looked like they were just practicing drilling.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford
By: Ian Lingley When: Aug 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That would be great, It applies to the Cochrane Lane Cliffs, sunny side, Mount Douglas-East Face and the bouldering.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford
By: Ian Lingley When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there any way to remove the CFB warning on all of Welsford and only apply it to the cliffs/areas that are affected? Eagle rock is private property and I'm also planing on adding bald peak as well and it's not on the base either?
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : ... : The Hex Wall
By: Ian Lingley When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You must check this site every 2 seconds, lol.
I still need to add the main area but ill probably have it up in the next few days.
And W2W is GOLD.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Green Head Cove : ... : Bolts, Butter and a Waffle ... (5.3)
By: Ian Lingley When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This a pretty awesome climb, it's probably only 5.2 climbing but the exposure it fantastic with a nice view up the saint john river. This is a fantastic solo/scramble.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Evandale Quarry : The Hand crack (V1 PG13)
By: Ian Lingley When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First accent was Possibly-- john & p.j Adamson,
let me know if you climbed this before 2011.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cedar point : Not Contrived Fejaitah (5.10c)
By: Ian Lingley When: Feb 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it’s crazy that the first bolt on this climb was chopped and moved left for a contrived 5.12 variation that could have been climbed by stick clipping the second bolt, or by climbing a little left of the original bolt placement.
Sport climbing is not about putting the bolts were you want people to climb. Sport climbing is about finding a NATURAL line that does not provide natural protection, and then you add the bolts accordingly.
If you don’t want to bolt another 5.10 and want to put u... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Evandale Quarry
By: Ian Lingley When: Feb 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Dom, Good use of the site. This quarry looks bad ass, there a few small cliffs and boulders up around those parts. Keep exploring!!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Green Head Cove : ... : Photo
By: Ian Lingley When: Feb 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like how the stump to Cory's right is belaying while Cory looks up in amazement.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Green Head Cove
By: Ian Lingley When: Jun 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks man, hope to see you there soon.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cape Spencer
By: Ian Lingley When: May 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Chris
I know that these rocks have been climbed before if you read the description of the area it states to email me any information you know about the area so I could update it. I talked to Steve and Tom; they said they climbed there and Cory G would likely know more.
And Yes I am also aware that people that live and climb in New Brunswick don’t want anyone else in the world to know there is climbing here. It is completely understandable because C-lane is always crowded and all... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Cape Spencer
By: Ian Lingley When: May 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, this is Cape Spencer. I knew people have climbed here before, and assumed it was mostly roped climbing because “no one” boulders in NB, at least SJ.
I’ve never seen the post on CEC, but would like to find out as much as I can about the area. Names, Grades, FA?
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