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Member Since: Sep 6, 2010
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Ian Cavanaugh

Point Rank: # 1,274
Total Points: 599
Last Year: 193
Last 30 Days: 11
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ian Cavanaugh been climbing?










Contributions


All 742 | Routes 36 | Areas 4 | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 188 | Stars 355 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : The Fins : The Head Wall : Baked Potato (5.12b)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: I see where you are are coming from. The routes you mention had previous anchors and stopping locations that the route was extended off of giving them a proper extension. There have also been several routes out there though that have received independent anchors as opposed to sharing but have retained the same name, being that it wasnt an extension but just an independent finish. Dinner Roll is one of those, used to share the anchors with Shaken and Yellow Man. Also every extension you have me... more >>


Location: ID : The Fins : The Head Wall : Baked Potato (5.12b)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: So should we then just leave it as Yukon Gold rather than the new name?


Location: ID : The Fins : The Head Wall : Baked Potato (5.12b)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: Great new finish. The climbing is very fun though seemed to be quite a bit easier than original finish. I did this via White Rhino as both Yukon Gold and White Rhino meet in the goat hole, much more enjoyable than climbing Yukon gold, in my opinion. Not sure this requires a new name as not a true extention but rather just a new independent finish for Yukon Gold. Well worth doing


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Creekside : Nairobi (5.12a)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Just did this thing this weekend for the first time. I never thought the bolts were in difficult to clip spots, just difficult to stay on the wall with only one hand. The final move at first seems impossible, but with a little gym climbing creativity you can pull through the final slab move with relative ease. Amazing route, far more difficult that most 12a's at the city.


Location: Climbing Skills : Single-Hitch Belay Escape
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: I agree with rgold. this is actually going to complicate any situation down the line. there are no advantages to this unless your plan is to walk away and never return. in order to release this later you would need to set up a 3-1 system just to release tension on the cloves to remove. If the person has the capability to execute a 3-1 later then they should be able to Munter Mule the system in the first place. not to mention if they can do a clove then they can Munter.
The belay off the hip i... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Luna 12 (5.12d)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: seems to come down to one move. its a big move to a good hold, the problem is the holds you are moving off of and the lack of feet. from there surf up a cool rail to a hero jug finish. much more difficult for the shorter folks


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Leave it to Jesus (5.11c)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Mar 9, 2016

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Comments: I just heard the story behind this routes name from Cal's first ever climbing partner. I have always been a fan of the history of climbing, routes and the eccentric folks that choose to partake in this crazy sport. I may have never met Cal but I feel like I knew him for a second listening to that story. Rest in peace.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Jet A Sector : Viva Montequilla (5.13b)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: correct, thank you


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Abortions on Parade (5.10c) : Photo
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: there is a bolted anchor just to the left of the major groove that can be used for a TR with a directional piece.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Abortions on Parade (5.10c) : Photo
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: this topo line is drawn incorrectly. the line goes straight up the crack, does not cut right.


Location: ID : Dierkes Lake : Picnic Crag : Peter Pan (5.13a)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: Not sure about the grade, but after sending this we did Evil C and the Bonnie Bionic the next day. It is shorter than the other two but feels more powerful. All could be soft, but sticking with the local grading Ill call them all the same. get on it and downgrade it.


Location: ID : Dierkes Lake : The Alcove : Bunny Bionic (5.13a)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: You dont even touch the poop. the bottom crux is very fun and worth doing. soft in the grade.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Shark's Fin Rock : Winking Gargoyle (5.12)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: This is good but not amazing. No way is it 5.12. The traverse takes small finger size piece. The patina is less than solid, had a sizable piece break off.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Southwest : Redtail (5.11a)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: 80m rope once again proves to be the ticket at the city. 42 meter pitch, down easily with rope stretch.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque : Montana Centennial Route (5.11a)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: In 2011, Kyle Christenson and myself were able to complete a full traverse of ever summit. We started out by climbing the Centennial route, bivyed on the summit and traverse the rest of the, I believe 7, summits finishing on Mt Cowen main summit. Wondering if anyone else has attempted or completed this. it was a lot of fun and added a lot of climbing and traversing to the whole experience.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Ghetto Blaster AKA Straight... (5.12+ R)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: bheller, the direct start is actually quite good full of very interesting, technical climbing. The tree you said you slung is where we were able to find our first pro. I was able to place two master cams (1) straight down into that crack that the tree was growing out of. after that you will need to make the most insecure moves to reach a shallow pod you can get another master (0) and then a thin .5 C4. these were ok, not the most inspiring. blowing it before getting those cams in would land... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Ghetto Blaster AKA Straight... (5.12+ R) : Photo
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: you can see the crack above that was the original start. the direct line goes up past the tree and into Ghetto Blaster.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Shark's Fin Rock : Chumming (5.13a)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Be sure to bring your extra skin. The crux is very thin and will destroy all the skin you have.
While it may be short this thing packs a ton of amazing climbing in it from the start to the chains. A must do for the grade


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Fat Lip (5.12a)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: The First Ascent was done by Dave Bingham and Tedd Thompson


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Ghetto Blaster AKA Straight... (5.12+ R)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: After talking to Stan Caldwell I was able to get the real history of this route and the first ascent. Stan and Dan came in from the right via a slanting crack that deposits you on a good stance below the only bolt currently on the route. This bolt was originally a 1/4inch button head. This was replace some years ago by Brad Shilling. The direct start has been climbed clean on TR but not lead as of yet. It contains more .12 climbing but the rest above allows you to get it all back before sta... more >>


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Algorithm (5.14d) : Photo
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Curious as to where you obtained my image?


Location: ID : The Fins : The Head Wall : Virgins of Howe (5.11d)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: could be that it was my warm up but this felt every bit as hard as the other .12a's on this and discovery. fun but not the best


Location: ID : The Fins : The Head Wall : White Rhino (5.12a)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: DONT NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE WITHOUT WASP SPRAY OR AN EPI PEN!! THERE IS A LARGE WASP NEST IN A POCKET 25-30 FT UP (MARKED WITH Xs ON TOP AND BOTTOM). THIS WAS WITNESSED ON SEPTEMBER 1ST 2013


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Dinner Roll (5.12c)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: For anyone concerned about the new extension/climbing to the new anchors, it is now cleaned, chalked and ready to go. it adds no difficulty to the original rating.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Undertow (5.10a A4- R)
By: Ian Cavanaugh When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: The aid rating would remain the same as it was when it was originally done. The A4 pitch is a RURP pitch through a roof. The free line avoids with section. You could probably aid the free variation at C2 with some .10 to .11- moves.


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