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Rock Climbing Photo: Good holds again.


Member Since: Nov 6, 2006
Last Visit: Jan 31, 2016
Contact ian altman

Point Rank: # 807
Total Points: 921
Last Year: 373
Last 30 Days: 0
55 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ian altman been climbing?










Contributions


All 255 | Routes 45 | Areas 1 | Photos 83 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts | Stars 67 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ian altman : sss : Photo
By: ian altman When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Hey Mark, if I were the kind of climber that was worried about sharing beta then you wouldn't see me on MP. :) I'm all about sharing info on the climbs I've helped develop because it cleans um up and helps others share in the beauty.
So this shot was taken on a cluster of boulders just west of Cortez, CO as you head towards Sand Canyon. It's been years since I was there, so I'm not exactly sure where it was but I remember they were fairly obvious from the road. Another place you might want to t... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Primate Highway (5.11a)
By: ian altman When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: We modernized this great route in 2007 and replaced the original bashies and angle iron hangers that Bruce Lella had placed in the '70s with 4" Rawl bolts and stainless hangers. If you happen to see this Bruce, I still have your hangers if you want them back. You can still make out your signature on them!

Also think this route makes for a great single pitch linkup to Simians to the Sun. It's direct, and with modern ropes, it makes for an outstanding long pitch!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Crime & Punishment (5.11a)
By: ian altman When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: Ha Ha. I added the "panty bolt" (awesome story that made me laugh tonight!) in 2007 with Tim's approval. I think he even showed me that day where he'd put it, and we agreed that many others would climb the route (and Evolution too) if the first crux was protected. Although I onsighted the route in the '90s, I was still scared shitless of the angle breaking crux move every time I looked up at it. The truth was, you just couldn't fall there! Although I was proud of my onsight of this scary East A.... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall : Sally Pocket (5.9)
By: ian altman When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: The story behind the name on this one came from the FA in 2001. Brett Keyes and I bolted it on lead and with a hand drill. It took most of the day. When I grabbed that sinker pocket about 3/4s of the way up, Brett told me I'd be a "Sally" if I used it. So I used it anyway and became a Sally, I guess, and the name was born. I think this route has become one of the better routes for its grade the Fume Wall.


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall : Beginner's Luck (5.7)
By: ian altman When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: This route was the second climb to be bolted at the Fume Wall in the spring of 2000. The first being the "CTA Route", bolted by Rob Middleton some years before. We originally bolted Beginner's on lead, and there was a total of 4 bolts. It felt like 5.9 back then, but after cleaning it up, it got a lot easier. In 2007, we added some five more bolts, and this climb became the entree lead for my students at the Colorado Timberline Academy.


Location: CO : Durango
By: ian altman When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: Some jackass chipped two of the jugs on the "front rock" at the Turtle Lake Bouldering area. It's unfathomable why someone would do such a thing...and either a random act of vandalism or a climber with a distorted personality. Please stop whoever you are, and let's keep an eye out folks!..the holds were clearly knocked off with a pick strike.


Location: CO : Durango : Turtle Lake
By: ian altman When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: Some jackass chipped two of the jugs on the "front rock" at the Turtle Lake Bouldering area. It's unfathomable why someone would do such a thing.. and either a random act of vandalism or a climber with a distorted personality. Please stop whoever you are, and let's keep an eye out folks!..the holds were clearly knocked off with a pick strike.


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Make John Do It (5.9+)
By: ian altman When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for adding these, Scott!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Arm and Hammer (5.10-)
By: ian altman When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: Word to that, Pete, but think I have better things to consume my energy down there. Yeah, it kinda pissed me off when I first saw it, but like I said, I clipped it the last time I lead it. It's still full value and quite run out even with this bolt. I guess it's just the principle of the matter that makes me wanna chop it. John and I had a lot of fun putting Arm and Hammer up years ago, and he lead the last 50 feet and placed those last three bolts on stances alone. I bet whoever took it upon th... more >>


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon
By: ian altman When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: I've noticed many other new routes established at the Pump House crag. They seem sweet, and if you any of you out there have done them, then why not update this MP database...?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Photo
By: ian altman When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: One of the most memorable ascents of my climbing career!


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall : Rookie Hook (5.10b)
By: ian altman When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: In climbing this route recently, I think it's becoming easier than 5.10. When we first climbed and bolted it on lead in 2003, we went right over the roof in the middle of the route. Funny story and reason for the name, as my buddy, B. Murray took an impressive whipper when his hook placement popped while drilling the crux bolt. Point is though, after climbing this again in recent years, I think the way of avoiding this crux is becoming more and more worn-in, and most folks find this as the way ... more >>


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Caroline's Crack (5.7)
By: ian altman When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: Hey Scott,

Thanks for the info and updates. I did climb Caroline's Crack in like 2001 or so in honor of my niece Caroline who was in surgery at the time of the ascent. I didn't look for my or your slings, because I was placing a newer bolted anchor. We should talk soon though, and I think the Whisky Wall is a great name...I was just trying to come up with something when updating MP the other day. We should talk soon, and maybe you could add the other routes you know of here. I noticed some oth... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall : Bad Math (5.10c/d)
By: ian altman When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Some fucko took the biners from this anchor recently. Don't be a dumb ass!


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall
By: ian altman When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Please people...stop taking the carabiners from the anchors!!! Most of them are steel anyway, and whoever is taking them just states their inexperience, ignorance, and general disrespect for the folks who are maintaining the climbs here. They are not bootie and were left there for a reason!


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Photo
By: ian altman When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the mention Peter. This pitch was one of the more memorable leads in my life and the perfect crescendo to an awesome route and adventure! If your into it, check out this article in the online Alpinist for the backstory on that trip... alpinist.com/doc/_print/web08s...


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Photo
By: ian altman When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: no digital additives to this photo..it really was that green!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Photo
By: ian altman When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Good to know. I'll change what I added to the database.


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Redemption Arete (5.7)
By: ian altman When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: Was gonna head out to the Dolo tomorrow if you happen to see this or have time...have the itch to get back there!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Arm and Hammer (5.10-)
By: ian altman When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: I noticed someone added a bolt to this one up topÂ… ? and I was stoked to clip the thing the last time I climbed it.


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall : Hoods in the Woods (5.11)
By: ian altman When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Did this route today for the first time in a while and noticed that a key hold had broken off near the crux. It felt harder then before..maybe 11b for that move.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Bonsai (5.10a) : Photo
By: ian altman When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for adding this. Seems like the consensus on the "Lemon Peel" rating is coming in at 5.10c. Two spots with definite 5.10 moves plus lots of fun 5.9 with great rests throughout the climb. Good times for sure!


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Lemon Peel (5.10) : Photo
By: ian altman When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Glad you enjoyed the Lemon Peel, Gary. We bolted it so well so to avoid ledge falls but may end up moving two of them up a bit. Besides that and some stainless clips for the anchor, I think the route is set to go. So, I'm new to MP, and I didn't know the protocol or best way to post routes to get a consensus on a rating. Although I now feel pretty safe with 5.10c, if you would like to move comments to right spot, please do so.


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall
By: ian altman When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Hello Fume Wall enthusiasts,

My climbing class and I recently noticed some newer routes established (with bolts and anchors) near and around the "Under Overhang Land ,5.12b). Looked like five new routes, and we climbed one that seemed like harder 5.11. Wondering if anyone wanted to share beta on these new routes...an area of the wall that was craving development! Glad someone is getting after it!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: ian altman When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Glad you had a chance to climb the Wind Tower. An obscure classic for sure! First time we ventured over there in the '90s, it took a boat and, as I recall, a harrowing crossing! But the drought has paved the way to more climbing across the river in recent years. Hope you had a chance to check the 'Ten Mile Crag' too. That camp is ideal for both. It's funny, I remember it being farther away from the main buttress but must have just been tower struck:) Stoked you got up the thingÂ… may have been... more >>


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