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Member Since: Nov 6, 2006
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact ian altman


Point Rank: # 3,168
Total Points: 145
Last Year: 135
Last 30 Days: 12
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 45 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 23 | Page Improvments | Comments 20 | Posts | Stars 1 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Bonsai (5.10a) : Photo
By: ian altman When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for adding this. Seems like the consensus on the "Lemon Peel" rating is coming in at 5.10c. Two spots with definite 5.10 moves plus lots of fun 5.9 with great rests throughout the climb. Good times for sure!


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Lemon Peel (5.10c) : Photo
By: ian altman When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Glad you enjoyed the Lemon Peel, Gary. We bolted it so well so to avoid ledge falls but may end up moving two of them up a bit. Besides that and some stainless clips for the anchor, I think the route is set to go. So, I'm new to MP, and I didn't know the protocol or best way to post routes to get a consensus on a rating. Although I now feel pretty safe with 5.10c, if you would like to move comments to right spot, please do so.


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall
By: ian altman When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Hello Fume Wall enthusiasts,

My climbing class and I recently noticed some newer routes established (with bolts and anchors) near and around the "Under Overhang Land ,5.12b). Looked like five new routes, and we climbed one that seemed like harder 5.11. Wondering if anyone wanted to share beta on these new routes...an area of the wall that was craving development! Glad someone is getting after it!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: ian altman When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Glad you had a chance to climb the Wind Tower. An obscure classic for sure! First time we ventured over there in the '90s, it took a boat and, as I recall, a harrowing crossing! But the drought has paved the way to more climbing across the river in recent years. Hope you had a chance to check the 'Ten Mile Crag' too. That camp is ideal for both. It's funny, I remember it being farther away from the main buttress but must have just been tower struck:) Stoked you got up the thing… may have been ... more >>


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: ian altman When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the feedback on the rating. The whips I referred to were on the second crux as I attempted to drill the 5th bolt. It was a quick learning curve though and nothing like natural consequence for getting your shit in line. My buddy John was a real motivator back then, and he placed the last 4 bolts to the top on stances alone. He'd be sure to yank that green bolt if he ever saw it there...but has bigger fish to fry now and lives in Anchorage, AK. Still does a lot of exploratory climbing ... more >>


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Photo
By: ian altman When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: That route you refer to is the "Bearded Lunch Lady", named after a real life character that used to flip burgers at the infamous "Lunch Box". She was a real charmer and made an impression on us after we had burgers the night of the FA in the early '00s. I remembered it had some really fun moves down low and on the arete but was a bit contrived as it merged with a route we had put up just left - "The "Walking Enigma".. that one is a real toe banger too!! Both of those routes are on the topos I s... more >>


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Photo
By: ian altman When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: I think Rex Walters did the Honeycomb a while back, and I'd say it goes 5.8 or so. I remembered it was harder then it looked, but I'll see if I can get his take...? Stunning position though!…that arch and welded stone underneath is awesome!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: ian altman When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Glad you have been able to enjoy the Dolo! "Arm and Hammer" was just like its name states on the FA- swinging leads back and forth with hand-drills, some hooks and the occasional stance... taking a few whips too. Did it with my John Kelly in 1997 or so. Been a while since I climbed it but remember the upper crux being the airiest! Noticed a bolt (w/ green hanger) was added up top too a few years back…? What's your thought on the rating?

Other favorites at the Pump House are: Groove Tube**, S... more >>


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Photo
By: ian altman When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Dolores River Canyon - Pump House Crag, Courtney Conway sends this awesome finger/ tight hands splitter (" Here Comes Fatherhood", 5.11, 90' ). This crack is the obvious splitter (across river) that faces up river…look for calcium streaks after you pull over the first big hill past the campground.


Location: S.Mckinna : In the desert : Photo
By: ian altman When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: We called this 'cross bedding' classic - "Air Time"- 5.8-** FA in 1995. Took a 30'er on the first ascent placing my first bold ever on lead... and so such natural consequences then lead to a lifelong obsession;-)


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon
By: ian altman When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: This one is well worth the river crossing and the steep/loose approach. A real gem with one of the better Wingate finger cracks in the canyon! A unique stem box (protected by 4" Rawls :) to a dead vertical, splitter and locker finger crack surrounded by foot holds.
DOLO topos - The Wind Tower - FA I. Altman, K. Allinger, & J. Kelly, 1995.  FFA - I. Altman, J. Hooten, 2001.
DOLO topos - The Wind Tower - FA I. Altman, K. Allinger, & J. Kelly, 1995. FFA - I. Altman, J. Hooten, 2001.



Location: CO : Dolores Canyon
By: ian altman When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Dolores River Canyon - "Ten Mile Crag" just 10 miles from Dove Creek, CO. We first climbed here in 1995 through the late '90s and did a few more in early '00s.

DOLO topos - Ten Mile Crag - 10 miles from Dove Creek, CO.
DOLO topos - Ten Mile Crag - 10 miles from Dove Creek, CO.



Location: CO : Dolores Canyon
By: ian altman When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments:
DOLO topos - Pump House Crag, close up on Red Rock Simulator Wall. "Bee Hive Buttress" and the obvious arch/cave are just to the looker's right.
DOLO topos - Pump House Crag, close up on Red Rock Simulator Wall. "Bee Hive Buttress" and the obvious arch/cave are just to the looker's right.



Location: CO : Dolores Canyon
By: ian altman When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Dolores River Canyon Topos- "Pump House Crag" 4.3 miles from Dove Creek, CO.

Dolo topos.
Dolo topos.



Location: CO : Dolores Canyon
By: ian altman When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Dolores River Canyon topos - "Pump House Crag" 4.3 miles from Dove Creek, CO. Our crew began climbing the obvious crack lines here in 1995 and quickly ventured onto the faces ground-up style throughout the early ots.

DOLO topos.
DOLO topos.



Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Photo
By: ian altman When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, John. This is the Red Rocks Simulator Wall, home to Arm and Hammer and the Rizalla's Crack. Someone added a random bolt near the top "Arm and Hammer"...noticed it a couple of years back, but it's still a classic. Reminds me of our hand-drilling, first ascent forays every time I lead it. It's still "yikes" all the way to the anchor!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Photo
By: ian altman When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: This is called "The Ear", 5.12-; located at the Pump House Crag. FFA was Rob Middleton, Durango, CO.


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Photo
By: ian altman When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: Some friends and I developed over 20 routes in this zone in the mid-'90s to early aughts. I'll upload our topos once I find them, but we called it the Pump House Crag and it's way cool, filled with spiller finger cracks and fun, Red Rocks style, face climbs. If you live the area, you have to check it out, and if you're on your way to the Creek, it's worth a stop. Great camping too!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Photo
By: ian altman When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: I took part in establishing two routes on this chunk. The crack is a sweet finger splitter that cruxes at 5.10+. Gear - 0.25 -1.5 inches & 2 bolts. Its name is "Sunday Strole". To the climber's left, we later established "Sinco De Mayo"-150", 12 bolt/gear lead requiring 1-2" protection; it’s also 5.10 and a classic sporty trad climb to the same anchor point.
Second free ascent of Sunday Strole; Jake Walsh, 2002.
Second free ascent of Sunday Strole; Jake Walsh, 2002.



Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall
By: ian altman When: Nov 6, 2006

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Comments: I've taken part in some of the development of this area. The routes are still in the process of being cleaned, but have real potential for being a good addition to Durango climbing selection. The best routes have turned out on the lower angled (south end of the wall) and constitute some great moderate sport climbing ranging in difficulty from 5.7-5.12b. All the routes are rigged with chains.The land owner is on to us though, and he has no intention of allowing anyone to climb there. Our litigio... more >>