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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : (06) True Grit (5.11d)
By: HoseBeats When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crap rock down low and hidden holds. I wouldn't bother going back for this climb.
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Location: International : New Zealand : South Island : Paynes Ford : Track 5
By: HoseBeats When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's also easiest to take Track 5 to access the Wall of Thugs (1080 and the Letter G, ect..) Head right, past the Little Lost Wall and up the gully, to the big platform that you start all of the roof climbs.
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Location: International : New Zealand : South Island : Paynes Ford : Track 4 : Send a Gorilla (5.11b/c PG13)
By: HoseBeats When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5 bolts if I remember correctly. There is a no-hander down low, but it doesn't do much. The pump comes up high when the jugs run out and you have to do the final moves on crimps. Lots of air time for me!
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Location: International : New Zealand : South Island : Paynes Ford
By: HoseBeats When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If your accustomed to using the YDS take the conversions to the Australian system with a grain of salt. The Kiwis are pretty good sandbaggers and the numbers don't always translate well. Watch out around the 19-24 grades, they can be stiff compared to the American equivalent.
Also, the climbing at Paynes can be quite pumpy and hard to get the onsight. Typically you search through a sea of crap looking for the best hold. It takes a week or maybe longer to really settle into the area, but on... more >>
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Location: International : New Zealand : South Island : Castle Hill : Quantum Field : Think Tank (V4)
By: HoseBeats When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the finest boulder problems I've ever done. I'm not sure a problem like this can be graded, v4 is a shot in the dark IMO. However hard it feels to you its still damn fantastic.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : (09) Resurrection (5.10c)
By: HoseBeats When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually enjoyed this route. There was only a few loose looking things near the very top. Less than vertical, with hard to see holds, and technical movement. A good route in my book.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: HoseBeats When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would Tensleep warrant a month long stay? How hard would it be to find partners? I'd like to avoid the crowds of Lander or Rifle, yet still climb quality routes. So is Tensleep worth it?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : (12) Pegasus (5.12a)
By: HoseBeats When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route! It seemed really hard on the first go, and then rather casual on the send. There are some hidden holds on the slopey, middle section. Really fun.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : (07) Chupacabra (5.12b/c)
By: HoseBeats When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A long move off of a crimp with marginal feet, at the second bolt was the crux for me. The tick marks I ended up following wove right then back left, to avoid the rather blank sections.
Beware a giant, creaky halfmoon shaped jug/sidepull that could go at any moment.
A no hands rest allows you to get all the juice back for the top.
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Location: AZ : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Hijacked (5.12b)
By: HoseBeats When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It sure felt hard to me. Very bouldery. The guidebook calls it a "Must Do." I disagree, I wouldn't have tried it again if I had fallen on my redpoint. Blah.
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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon : Fossil Wall : (05) Fossil Fling (5.12a)
By: HoseBeats When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It could be 11d. The crux is short and once you make it to the bucket left of the traverse you can get all your juice back. The top isn't a gimme but the difficulty eases off for the last few bolts.
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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon : Fossil Wall : (01) Unknown Fossil (1) (5.9)
By: HoseBeats When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The mantel over the roof is pretty tricky for 5.9 It's around a V1ish move.
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Major Wall : (18) Banana Peel (5.11c)
By: HoseBeats When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought it was as hard as Bananas on Acid. Balancy and tenuous at the crux.
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Alcohol Wall South : (09) Power Play (5.12b)
By: HoseBeats When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun and unique like DTP states. Good footwork will get you through the traverse without wasting too much energy. Find a creative rest at the last bolt of the traverse before heading up the stopper move (v4ish?) to the jugs above.
If Bananas on Acid is 12a then this is at least one grade harder.
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Location: AZ : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Firedance (5.12-)
By: HoseBeats When: Oct 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tweaky down low on smaller than they look pockets leading to fun and an interesting crux up high. There is a large X chalked next to a bolt 2/3 of the way up. Unfortunately this is the bolt you will most likely fall on. My climbing partner and I checked it out and both fell on it with no problems. Fun route!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+) : Photo
By: HoseBeats When: Jul 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best butt shot ever!
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