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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central : Phat Phinger Phrenzy (5.8)
By: Holly Barnard When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This a trad climb masquerading as a sport climb. Don't be put off by the single star rating. If you are comfortable with trad climbing style, you will find this to be a fun climb well worth doing (if only to give you fingers a rest from pulling on sharp pockets). I found it to be easier than other moderates at Iris. Beware of loose rock up high in the crack on the left.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Loose Ends (5.9)
By: Holly Barnard When: Aug 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route, that doesn't seem to get as much spray as J-crack and Femp. P1 has perfect finger locks and high friction for your feet. It was one of my first 5.9 leads and protects really well. It seems like the crack always tends to have about 2 pieces of fixed gear in it. A hint for P2 would be to think about your hand placements before slotting in gear. My partner made it much more difficult for himself than it needed to be by filling up his jams. Overall, every pitch is great ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : The Flying Buttress (5.9)
By: Holly Barnard When: Aug 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally, I felt like going thru the roof at the 3" crack was very hard. It felt more like solid 10a to me. For someone shorter, weaker, and having less skill than others, such as myself, it required a a lot of lock off strength. Once you get the left hand "jug" and can get your feet up a little higher it eases up a little, but I found it to be pretty tough to move off of the rail. If this grade is near your limit, prepare to really have to power thru it. A #3 Camalot protects it we... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : The Unsaid (5.9)
By: Holly Barnard When: Jul 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first Eldo 5.9 lead and I didn't think it was as hard as others I have followed or lead since then in the canyon. I'm 5'6" and this climb was definitely more than a one move wonder. I'd agree with 3 or 4 moves that by the end of them you could be looking at an unpleasant ride if you fell before getting back into the crack. In hindsight, I'd advise folks to be pretty comfortable at 8+ before leading this. Falling from the face mid-crux would not be good. Place gear as high as you... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Left Side (5.8+)
By: Holly Barnard When: Jul 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route about a week ago and P1 had running water in it. The route is very lichen covered and can be really slippery in places when the lichen meet the water. We ran the rope out for nearly the full 60m for the 1st two pitches. P2 (as we did it) went up relatively tame slab terrain but lacked good pro. The leader needs to be comfortable with long runouts on 5.7 terrain. The upper portion of this pitch got a little steeper and had more protection, but was also laced with loose flakes ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Grapevine (5.8+)
By: Holly Barnard When: Jul 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the crux of this climb was actually just a few feet off the deck and only lasted about 2 moves. I also had some questionable gear going into these moves in a flaring finger crack. The squeeze chimney was miserable - I wouldn't call it 5.6 even if it were at Vedauwoo. If you are carrying your approach shoes or a pack you'll definitely want to hang them below you on runner. Aside from the low crux on the 1st pitch, I thought the route had excellent placements all the way up. We didn... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Mr. Natural (5.8+)
By: Holly Barnard When: Jul 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: After pulling over the flake, there is a very large jug (hard to describe but you'll know is when you see it). Towards the bottom of this jug hold there appears to be some friable rock. Looked like it could break pretty easy if one were to lay back off of it. Just a heads up....
Fun route, too short, but might be a good lead for those transitioning from 5.8s to 5.9 in Eldo since it protects so well.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Schizophrenia (5.8)
By: Holly Barnard When: Jul 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although this climb is almost too short to be called a route, it has some fun moves on it - esp. going over the small roof and a cruxy move or two in the dihedral. I'd recommend doing it if you are waiting around to get on the super popular routes up trail from it (e.g. rewritten, yellow spur ,etc.). Nice little warm up for the day.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : S&M (5.7)
By: Holly Barnard When: May 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Everyone in the immediate area of this climb should be wearing a helmet. The so called walk off ledge is completely choss and rocks tend to funnel down on top of Xanadu. We climbed it b/c it was the only thing open on a busy Sunday in the area, but next time I'll just wait in line for something worth doing,
There has also been some recent major rock fall/slide in this area. Use caution and be safe.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : El Cracko Diablo (5.10a)
By: Holly Barnard When: Mar 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Detailed gear beta. Red alien and .5 camalot (purple) in the V-slot. Green alien under the roof. #3 camalot on the right side of the block. Yellow and blue TCU's in the finger crack on the left on the block.
Sustained route, but fun pretty especially the 2nd time around. Pulling up onto the block is by far the easiest part and also has a good rest just before it. I was tempted to give it 3 stars, but given all the other great cracks around Moab I couldn't. Definately worth doing thou... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Holly Barnard When: Mar 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route! I can't believe it isn't talked about more. I'm 5'6" and I imagine the stem box would be pretty difficult for anyone much shorter than me. Although, it looks like you could do some off-width tricks in the wide crack on the right. I felt like the hardest move was actually getting up to belay ledge after coming out of the stemming section. There are some good holds at the lip of the ledge, but getting to them was a little tricky.
As for the rap, we had 2-60m ropes and follo... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Flakes (5.9)
By: Holly Barnard When: Nov 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the route this afternoon, and thought it was pretty unremarkable (to the point that I'm remarking on it). Good fun moves at the bottom and some fun moves at the top, but nothing too great in between. I would consider a 3 star route to be a 'destination climb' that you send all your buddies to. I'd say this climb is worth doing as a 'filler climb' (e.g. want to get one more line in on your way out af the park). I also thought the crux was a few ft. off the deck, and not up at bolt. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Femp (5.9)
By: Holly Barnard When: Jun 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aside from the crux areas, this crack has solid hand jams (with a couple fists) all the way up it. The cruxes are delicate and balancey, but generally well protected. I thought the hardest part was the move just before clipping the pin. I imagine that it might be easier for someone with some reach. P2 is definitely a 3-star pitch!
Since the pitch is pretty straight, you can be conservative with the runners without too many rope drag issues. Having two #2 Camalots is helpful.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Holly Barnard When: Apr 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun route and super busy. Be prepared for lots of other parties and don't be a jerk when sharing the route. On the last pitch, the 2nd bolt you clip (ignoring the old belay at the base of the diving board)looked pretty manky too me, but with the advise of the party before us, I backed it up a #3 camalot. It inspired a little more confidence. There are lots of drilled angles and bolts at the last belay. Be advised to position yourself carefully when belaying the leader on the las... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Wars (5.8)
By: Holly Barnard When: Apr 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, great crack pitch! Too short tho. 3 comments - there are foot holds (small ones, yes) on the left face. I pretty sure I only jammed my right foot most of the way and smeared or stood on nubbins on the left. Also, I thought the crack exit was more of a layback than a mantle. If you sew up the crack and don't want to run it out, you might want to save a #1 Camalot (possibly .75) for the 5.6 slot/crack above. I had some crappy hexes in there. It's easy 5.6, but would still make fo... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Handbook (5.9)
By: Holly Barnard When: Jun 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this climb was a pretty stiff 5.9. The crux pitch is long and pretty sustained. There is definitely more than one crux to this climb, so don't fool yourself into thinking your work is over after the first tricky part. On the bright side, this route is loaded with a variety of good jams. Good Luck.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Holly Barnard When: Jun 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: My 2 cents since I LOVED this climb. It's super fun - do it! I unfortunately belayed at the shit station - it was nasty - I opted to stand for that one but it did provide good views and if your partner stops at the next ledge above you won't be there too long. There were some agro birds on this climb-beware of winged dive bombers and some lurking in the cracks. We took a couple doubles of hand sized pieces and they came in handy for stretching pitches.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Chianti (5.8+)
By: Holly Barnard When: Apr 15, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Follwed it on 4/13/02. We did it as one pitch with a 60m rope and had about 10ft to spare. My partner set up a gear anchor left of the bolts on top, so that probably allowed for the little extra rope we had. If you wanted to ensure that you had enough rope you could scrabble up together and belay from the ledge directly below where the business really starts instead of from the ground (I belayed from the ground).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Lizard Rock : Entry Fee (5.8 R)
By: Holly Barnard When: Apr 2, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner was able to place a long sling and a #2 camalot (backing each other up) near the top of the right facing flake where the lower crack/flake climbing ends just prior to the face moves. You can also put a #4 camalot behind the upper flake before making your summit moves (a 4.5 might work too). Feel around for good holds on top. The bolts/pin on top look a little manky - tied-off bolts don't inspire confidence.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Thunderbolts (Easter Island... (5.10)
By: Holly Barnard When: Apr 2, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was at Indian Creek over the weekend and it was reported to me that the chockstone linking P1 and P2 together actually broke loose and no longer exists as of 3/31/02 (ironically Easter Sunday). Can anyone confirm this?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Binou's Crack (5.8)
By: Holly Barnard When: Mar 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great leading intro to Indian Creek, but if you're a beginner, don't get to overconfident after ticking this one. Although, you can purely jam this for most of it, there are some wall features that allow for stemming and foot-outta-the-crack rests. The top will be a little more awkward if you have big fingers. Smaller hands will be able to get some good fingers in the thin crack. Doubles of the small stuff (blue, green, yellow aliens) can be useful if you're feeling nervous. Super-f... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Washington Irving (5.6)
By: Holly Barnard When: Mar 12, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This a great route for its grade. I would give it 3 stars. The route eats a standard rack, so its good for a beginning [Eldo] leader. You often have the option of shoving in a cam or using more creative nut placements from good stances. Bring some longer runners for lower placements and for the option of tying yourself in at the anchors. You can do a short 5.4ish pitch down and right of the climb in order to reach the belay ledge if you feel like doing something only slightly more interestin... more >>
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