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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Henry Lester When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On pitch 5, part of the overhang (the flakes you are standing on just before the bleay) past the (usually) wet section collapsed - still very do-able, but some more will probably come off. It appears that the place to traverse (left) on to Good Evans is from the ledge about 10 feet above the belay at the top of the fourth pitch. The traverse appears to go to the belay on the last pitch of Good Evans. I think this would make for a better finish.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Psycho (5.11a)
By: Henry Lester When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pin, which is the second piece of fixed gear, is a little loose.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Real Men of Genius (5.11c)
By: Henry Lester When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The flake at the overhang is quite hollow, and the route is too close to the Fornicator which is the natural line.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : Elvis's Hammer : Hormones in Waiting (5.10)
By: Henry Lester When: Nov 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent fun! This route is 5.10 and protects well including the first move. The rock is soft especially near the bottom and is, therefore, scary and exciting; however, it is possible to have a good piece in front of one at all times. A standard desert rack - doubles on everything and one 4 Camalot - will provide good protection. Long slings especially near the top is a good idea to avoid rope drag. There is a pin and an old star drive bolt at the overhang. We added a rope to the anch... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Henry Lester When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Steve A. and other similar comments and having followed the route a couple of times but having failed at leading a couple of times, I feel that the insecurity combined with the normal exertion associated with OW is being confused by some with technical difficulty. What exactly is the situation for replacing bolts on this route? Although it is clearly well protected with a 5 Camalot, I, for one, would enjoy and appreciate new bolts.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8)
By: Henry Lester When: Jun 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has been some years since I have done this route, and the angle of the picture appears odd to me; however, I am pretty sure that the topo line on the picture is wrong. After going up a steep blocky face the route goes up the radiating cracks to the right of the red line, up to ledges that are then followed up to a left angling 5.8 exit crack. The exit crack is only about 30 feet long. The cracks going up the slab are maybe 200 feet...
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Henry Lester When: May 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Matt's first comments: this route is way over sprayed and written up. George Lowe and I did this in the mid 1990's mostly because I was lured into thinking it was a classic in the sense of Astro-man is to the valley what Astro-dog is to the BC - What an idiot I was! We both agreed that this was not worth repeating and if we had known better we would not have done it in the first place. We have both touched a lot of loose rock in our days and this route has plenty of crap; ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Feeding The Beast (aka Beas... (5.12a)
By: Henry Lester When: Jun 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, this route is a sandbag at 5.12a and is probably more fairly rated at 12b. After a technical crux getting up into the slot the pitch stays strenuous including clipping the anchors.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Blonde Ambition (5.12a)
By: Henry Lester When: Jun 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: We found the final crux (second to last bolt) to be quite hard and much harder than the variation of this route that goes left (and avoids the corner) for 4 bolts. My input is that this pitch is 12b - harder than Starting Blocks.
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