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Member Since: Feb 19, 2008
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,452
Total Points: 56
Last Year: 55
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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hemp22

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (26) | Routes (5) | Areas | Photos | Comments (6) | Posts (4) | Stars (8) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

B.F.D.

5.9+

Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet

OR : Broughton Bluff

Jul 2, 2009

Fun in the Mud

5.10c

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

OR : Broughton Bluff

Jul 2, 2009

From Something to Nothing

5.10d

Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

OR : Broughton Bluff

Jul 2, 2009

Sheer Energy

5.10a

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet

OR : Broughton Bluff

Jul 2, 2009

Anastasia

5.9

TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet

OR : Broughton Bluff

Jul 2, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : loose block overhang right ... (5.9 PG13)
By: hemp22 When: Sep 11, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This is the right hand variation of the first pitch of loose block overhang.

If you skip the chain anchor and link directly into the overhang on P2, it makes for a good longer pitch, and takes you to the actual Slapfest anchors (which are shared w/ P2 of loose block)


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Hit the Highway (5.11b)
By: hemp22 When: May 13, 2009

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Comments: The first pitch of Hit the Highway is a short & fully-bolted 5.10A, and offers some fun moves by itself. Starts above Anastasia & heads right after 3 bolts to reach the 1st pitch anchor of Red Eye.


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Physical Graffiti (5.10d)
By: hemp22 When: May 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The approach as described above is to follow the bolts on P1 of hit the highway, and then follow "tricky" face climbing up & left to the ledge below the roof crack - use this direct approach to climb the roof crack in a single pitch from the ground.
The original climb actually has a separate first pitch: start by scrambling up the left side of the cliff, as if accessing the ledge to top-rope anastasia/classic crack - but instead of heading right to the ledge, start climbing straight up a corner ... more >>


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Lost Boys (5.10d)
By: hemp22 When: May 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: There used to be a dinner-plate-sized loose flake that was used as an undercling for the move past the last bolt. This flake came off some time during the 2008-09 winter. The move on the remaining undercling holds remains basically the same.


Location: OR : Rail Road Crag in LO
By: hemp22 When: Apr 29, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I've heard that the RR has been totally un-responsive to requests from the Access Fund to discuss the situation. So, still no word yet as to whether the closure is a response to concerns over climbing, or just concerns over all the various other "users" walking along the tracks.


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Bela Lugosi (5.12c)
By: hemp22 When: Jul 15, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: If anyone's interested in doing the work, let me know.
The local access fund rep has a bunch of bolts & hangers that were donated by ASCA for use at Broughton.
There are a few other anchors & bolts out there that are also a priority to replace.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: BOLT LADDER DESTROYS BAT WALLPacific Northwesthemp22Jan 29, 2009
re: MADRONE WALL RESTORATION AND CLEAN UPPacific Northwesthemp22Nov 10, 2008
re: Climbing in New Zealand?General Climbinghemp22Apr 22, 2008
re: Climbing in New Zealand?General Climbinghemp22Mar 17, 2008

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Lost Boys 5.10d

OR : Broughton Bluff

Physical Graffiti 5.10d

OR : Broughton Bluff

Sheer Energy 5.10a

OR : Broughton Bluff

loose block overhang right variation 5.9 PG13

OR : Broughton Bluff

Anastasia 5.9

OR : Broughton Bluff

From Something to Nothing 5.10d

OR : Broughton Bluff

Fun in the Mud 5.10c

OR : Broughton Bluff

B.F.D. 5.9+

OR : Broughton Bluff

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Lost Boys

5.10d

5.10d

OR : Broughton Bluff

Physical Graffiti

5.10d

5.10d

OR : Broughton Bluff

loose block overhang right variation

5.9 PG13

5.8

OR : Broughton Bluff

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