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Rock Climbing Photo: girl40


Member Since: Jan 31, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Healyje

Point Rank: # 3,259
Total Points: 195
Last Year: 112
Last 30 Days: 5
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Healyje been climbing?










Contributions


All 1011 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 30 | Posts 948 | Stars 3 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Day of Atonement (5.10b)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: A #4 ballnut is bomb in the thin crack.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Solid Gold (5.10-)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: Similar to Hollow Victory's top, it just needs periodic cleaning. If no one does it then, yeah, it gets dirty every winter and every spring storm.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Naughty and Nice (5.10d)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: "The dihedral above the ledge was terribly dirty. We cleaned what we could, but more traffic is needed on this thing."

I typically clean the ledge and the dihedral a couple of times early every year, but missed it that year and this due to pneumonia and not being able to deal with the dust. But hey, it's not that big a deal to thoroughly clean both out. I similarly clean the exit moves on Hollow Victory numerous times in the spring. And it's the same deal at Beacon, if everyone would j... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (5) Fir Tree Ledge : Squeeze Play (5.10c)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: This is actually a great little TR from the Naughty & Nice anchor.

The line goes up and stays on just the corner itself and is quite challenging.


Location:
By: Healyje When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Two, an hb alloy #9 and a red metolius which are kind of buried in the crack below the biner and not really visible.

-------------

"Is it me or your biner is cross loaded?"

It has that appearance, but no. Under tension the rope and screamer loop ride up to the top of the biner and the chockstone sling unweights. The chockstone sling's only purpose is just to keep the rig oriented correctly when unloaded.


Location: Australia : Photo
By: Healyje When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: That's a ridiculous number of bolts for what it is...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Healyje When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Strayed onto this by accident with in 1975 with just a few stoppers and a novice partner belaying me, and it's the closest I've ever come to dying while climbing. Managed to get off of it alive, but just barely. Interesting and not surprising to see it didn't get done until 13 years later - definitely burly with some sketch pro.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Hollow Victory (5.10+ R)
By: Healyje When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Just a note to say the bolt was added immediately after the FA rather than 'recently' (replacing a double #2 ballnut placement).

## That bolt, however, in no way changes the seriousness or R rating of the route. ##


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : The Wizard (5.11+ PG13)
By: Healyje When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: As I said, we kind of blitzed in and out just doing Tarzan and then putting up The Wizard. Something about the army guys trying to kill themselves and throwing stun grenades around kind of put us off to the place after a couple of altercations with them. I've posted a picture of Marco on it occasionally on ST and mentioned it to Ed Webster, but otherwise it was all pretty stealth from a historical perspective.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : The Wizard (5.11+ PG13)
By: Healyje When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: Thanks. No, the doubles just seemed prudent in keeping pressure off a sort of circularly equalized nest of micro stoppers (prior to the cam) which had a screamer on it as well. We also sliced the screamer bartacks at a steep angle with a razor blade in a bid to soften the loading curve on the nest. The screamer on the cam was what took care of the rigid cam stem and is probably unnecessary today as the horizontal slot itself is basically truck.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : The Wizard (5.11+ PG13)
By: Healyje When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: Sorry, fixed....


Location: IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff : Jill's (5.11a/b R) : Photo
By: Healyje When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Isn't that Poison Ivy? (Need to get back there soon)

I believe Jills was a right leaning/trending affair.

Crikey I'm get senile.

Won't matter if I can still send it I suppose...


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : Photo
By: Healyje When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: Well, not that I know of, but no telling what's gone down since we put it up....


Location: IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff : Full Moon Foot Dance (V1 X)
By: Healyje When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: You do not under any circumstance want to blow the last move off the climb. The crux[s] were the first and last moves.


Location: IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff : Makanda Layback (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Healyje When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: a) Hump? It's 'Camel's Back', not 'Camel's Hump' - weird that would somehow change.

b) 'The Gully's finish is what you have marked as the 'Devil's Backbone' finish, the marked finish was a slightly spicier solo variation. It had two starts, the traditional one marked until the ground washed out, and the more commonly used marked start to Camel's Back and traverse left into The Gully. Also, The Gully typically went left in the 'gully' up to the seventh dash you have marked for 'Devil's Backbone'... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Lost Warriors (5.11+ R) : Photo
By: Healyje When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Commenting when you haven't climbed pretty much makes you the only joke.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Wushu Roof (5.10d)
By: Healyje When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: Ideally you want side-by-side Metolius #9 and #10 cams (or med. and large Super Cams) straight upwards into the dark slot at the roof crux. Both need the outside cam lobes to the left with the #9 to the inside and the #10 outboard next to it. The comparable BD cams would actually be the old 3.5/4.5 pairing, in the new ones I'm guessing two #4s. You have to pay attention to those placements, make sure they're all the way to the top of the slot.

Also, the route is ba... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (5) Fir Tree Ledge : Tunnel Vision (5.11b)
By: Healyje When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: I consider the crux throw to be the single most strenuous move out there.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Healyje When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: It is again a good bit of climbing and the same issues were raised on the East Face of the Monkey with Watts pre-placement of gear vs. Trotter doing a real FFA. FFA does stand for 'First Free Ascent', but was never meant outside of the context of placing gear on lead and that's my only question in this instance. And so long as this isn't some kind of prelude to retro-bolting the route or the South Face columns in general I certainly have no problem with it at all.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Healyje When: Aug 29, 2013

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Comments: Matt, good climbing, but I'm not at all clear how pre-placed gear in any way makes for a remotely valid FFA claim, at least not if, as Opdycke says, we're still "keeping it real" out at Beacon.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Stone Rodeo (5.12b)
By: Healyje When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Excuse me? And who are you? The climb as not been retrobolted - it was rebolted (and you're welcome).


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Link-up: Free for All/Dod'... (5.10c)
By: Healyje When: Nov 30, 2011

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Comments: I suppose you could funk around with wide pro, but it really isn't necessary.

I lead the p2 offwidth all the time with just two large stoppers, each placed in an utterly bomb slot - one at 1/3 and the other at 2/3s of the way up the offwidth. Both can be placed from solid, stemmed stances.

Both placements are classic and couldn't be more solid; they are however back a ways in the crack (but obvious if you are looking) so each needs an extended trad draw. I use an HB Alloy o... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Old Warriors Never Die (5.12b PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 18, 2011

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Comments: At this point the biggest danger is from the top 20' of the left side Wrong Gull pillar coming down on it.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Old Warriors Never Die (5.12b PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: Yeah, some of the lines are PG-13 and R - doesn't mean they need retro-bolts, though.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone)
By: Healyje When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO CLIFFTOP-ACCESSIBLE TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ... more >>


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