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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Hayduke Cloud When: Mar 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of today, the wasps are in full effect, making the final 10' unclimable. I agree that this route doesn't deserve the "R" rating.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : White Rastafarian (V3 R)
By: Hayduke Cloud When: Dec 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're interested check out my video of a friend and I attempting White Rasta. A really great problem.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Wall of Denial : Toxic Avenger (5.10d)
By: Hayduke Cloud When: Dec 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route. Don't be intimidated by the well-spaced bolts, as the clips are easy and the falls would always be clean. Very fun face climbing on beautiful rock.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : South Buttress (5.8)
By: Hayduke Cloud When: Jul 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The above route description is a little mis-leading. What the author is calling the 'first pitch' is actually about 240-250 ft long. Your second could certainly simul-climb, as the climbing is moderate, but there is no way to stretch the rope and gain the base of the K-crack. Maybe with a 70m, but even that would be pushing it. Probably best to break it into two pitches. This is a fantastic little climb, and the K-crack variation is certainly worth all the fuss. Descent can be made with on... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11) : Photo
By: Hayduke Cloud When: May 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think that is one of the six-shooters in the background. Although they certainly could be seen from the summit. If you know what to look for, you can make out several of the Indian Creek walls from the top of Monster.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Hayduke Cloud When: Feb 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route on the most famous tower in Utah. I disagree with the grade creep going on here. This route is stiff, for sure, but 11c? Not a chance. When I think 11c I think Crack of Doom at City of Rocks, or Atlantis in the Needles. Both of which are miles harder than this route. Do not be intimidated by this route, get on it! Good gear and awesome exposure. 11a (maybe)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Top Sirloin (5.11)
By: Hayduke Cloud When: Jun 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a must-do on a cliff that has quite a few outstanding climbs. No trickery on this climb, just be ready for red-camalot sized jams from start to finish. Towards the top it kicks back and pods out to where there are some good hands.
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