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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Three Birches (5.8+)
By: hasan When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fixed cam's sling is in quite bad shape thats near the start.
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Cold Day in Hell (5.9+)
By: hasan When: Aug 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route! Had a blast on it today.
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Lost Souls (5.10a/b)
By: hasan When: Jun 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To start we climbed a mini pitch to a 2 bolt belay right underneath a roof overlap and a lone bolt before p1. Starting p1, those first few moves could be pg13, the first bolt does nothing if you fall mantling above it. The slab is right underneath. Putting a regular draw on that bolt would be horrendous rope drag since you break hard right immediately after mantling onto the ledge with the piton. I put a 4ft runner on that bolt, fell doing that mantle, and decked on the slab below just above the... more >>
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Wonder Wall : The Last Unicorn (5.10b)
By: hasan When: Jun 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the route yesterday, what an amazing location and amazing moves! Pretty well protected with lots of bolts, we placed 3 pieces of gear on the whole route. If you're willing to do one (or two) extra raps, it'll could be done with one rope. We took up a 2nd 70m and felt we could've done without it.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Beast 666 (5.11+)
By: hasan When: Jun 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "you may as well fail on this!" makes no sense in a route description. 1) It's not that hard 2) It's pretty well protected 3) That's an opinion not a fact.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor
By: hasan When: May 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was there a few days ago, there's a 10c/d route, it was maybe third or fourth route on left when you enter. It has a big undercling flake w an X on it and its very fragile. It may be a good idea to break that off before it "falls on its own"/"climber steps on it" and it hits someone in the head or the belayer in the face.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Be Sharp Or B Flat (5.10 X)
By: hasan When: Oct 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful route, spent a long time walking at the top searching for its anchor, didn't see s#@t, anyone know if its still even there..
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Jack The Ripper (5.11a/b PG13)
By: hasan When: Sep 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure why its listed pg13, takes good gear. clean to fall.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Espresso (5.10d)
By: hasan When: Sep 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on it today and sent, great route. I feel if you veer right onto the block and then traverse left into the route around 2nd bolt then it is no where near 10d, more like 10a or 9+, and if its thats 10d then romancing the stone (10c) etc would be 11. The true line would be straight up from the first bolt up with some hard moves into steep juggy climbing to anchors.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : The Saigons (5.8)
By: hasan When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it yesterday, pitch2 right before the crux section where you put in a cam in the horizontal - all hands and feet on left are wet. But the holds are really good! The traverse ledge to airation is very slippery. I down climbed a bit and traversed where it is wet but you can protect it easily.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8)
By: hasan When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route, sent yesterday soaking wet, it has bomber finger locks. The start is slippery, seems lots of people get on it. I think best route of the grade at Cathedral. It eats up nuts pretty well. Little but easy runout after the second bulge to the trees.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Airation (5.11a)
By: hasan When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was underneath it yesterday, it is completely soaked.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Camber (5.11b)
By: hasan When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was scoping it out from anchor of p2 of saigon. The face looked quite dirty and lichen. Looked liked it hasn't gotten much traffic lately.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Chicken Delight (5.9)
By: hasan When: Aug 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful crack, one of the few pure splitter cracks at barber wall. Crack jamming and locking to a layback pumpy section to a great stance then a bolt protected move to a good dish. Awesome route!
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : The Saigons (5.8)
By: hasan When: Aug 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch has pitons tucked in. It's easy to assume that theres nothing and run it out because the climbing is easy but you soon find yourself in no fall zone so keep eye out for them. The steep crux is easy to protected with a bd#2 before it. Small but good crimps to a bolt then a bomber a mantle to a beautiful belay ledge.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Nutcracker (5.9+)
By: hasan When: Aug 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Up to the bulge, it feels more face climbing with a finger lock thrown in here and there. There are plenty of the feet with an occasional need to cam your foot. Chicken Delight feels more like a pure crack climbing experience.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: hasan When: Jun 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: hahahhaa great comment @fred555
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Parks Pond Bluff
By: hasan When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Clifton climbing guidebook is highly essential for climbing anywhere in Clifton (that includes Parks Pond). It's sold by the local climbing shop, Alpenglow, in Orono. They have a website by that name also.
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Location: ME : Long Reach Crag
By: hasan When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the work so far. I just moved to Portland and planning to go there and check it out this weekend. Lemme know if you'd like to go with.
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Location: ME : Royal River Bouldering
By: hasan When: Aug 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you mean Exit 15 off of 295. There is no exit 16, the next one after 15 is 17.
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Parks Pond Bluff : Maple Run Wall : The Guardian (5.12a)
By: hasan When: Jul 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A key hold has broken. The route is now significantly harder.
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags
By: hasan When: Jul 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you mean Sundog wall. It is vertical to slightly overhanging. Except for 1 chossy line, they are all well equipped sport routes. It's in the guidebook.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Waimea (5.10d)
By: hasan When: Apr 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route looks amazing. Went to rumney specially to give it a go but was super wet while routes on left and right were dry. I must go there again for it :D
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