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Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Circus Wall : Pygmy Alien (5.7)
By: Harvey Miller When: Feb 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend and I did both pitches of this route this past weekend (Feb 11, 2006). Fun route, but some comments:
i) Be careful to follow the LEFT crack after exiting the cave and traversing at the start of pitch 2. The right crack seems more obvious after traversing out of the cave, but the correct crack is around a corner from start of the obvious crack.
ii) Be careful about heinous rope drag on pitch 2.
iii) the SW Utah Guidebook says to simply work your way north at the top to a downclimb. ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Bushwhack Crack (5.8)
By: Harvey Miller When: Oct 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this for the first time two days ago. I agree with one of the previous posts: on the second pitch, the left crack is better than the right crack. The right crack is nothing special, and also thins out about 2/3rds of the way up to a shallow outward flaring crack that was difficult to pro and then to a runout. Not a good combination. Left crack is fun, easy climbing. It pinches out at the top and there is a short runout to the chains, so get a piece or two in as high as possible.... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Unknown face (5.9)
By: Harvey Miller When: Jun 16, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, one of the anchors at the top is bad. A good option is to use the good anchor as a bolt, and then finish the climb by traversing to the left to the anchors at the top of Nice Little Crack. Its not very far. Belay your follower from the top, and then rap from those anchors.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Harvey Miller When: May 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! Crack on Pitch 2 gets a bit off-width. Might want to bring a couple of the big cams such as Metolius #8-10.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Beckey's Wall (5.7)
By: Harvey Miller When: Aug 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Others are not joking about the fat, sneaky squirrel that hangs out at the base of this climb. It has figured out how to open zippers! I am not kidding. I lost a Cliff bar and it nibbled through a plastic bag in my partner's pack..
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Minimum Security (5.10a R)
By: Harvey Miller When: Aug 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 1/4 inch bolt on this route seems highly suspect to me. It is a spinner and cratered behind the bolt. Beware.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Road Kill Wall : Armadillo Waffles (5.8+)
By: Harvey Miller When: May 17, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start requires a nice, challenging, bouldery move. Also, it seems to me that it would be easy to deck on this route. There is quite the run between 1st and 2nd as well as between 2nd and 3rd bolts (at least for a 35 foot climb). Have fun but be careful.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : Engagement Alcove : Choose Your Weapon (5.9)
By: Harvey Miller When: May 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note: On May 2, 2004, the hangers were missing from the anchors. You have two choices: i) climb a 30 foot run-out to an ice climbing anchor above the CYW anchor (fairly mellow - 5.6, but a fall could be ugly). ii) probably safer - traverse to the left to the anchors for Wet Ichies.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Lower Wall : Chorus Line (5.9)
By: Harvey Miller When: Apr 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolt #6 (last one before the anchor) is a spinner. Bolt #3 (shared with Choir Boy) is also a spinner
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Lower Wall : Choir Boy (5.9)
By: Harvey Miller When: Apr 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolt #3 (shared with Chorus line) is a spinner.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Thieving Magpie (5.7)
By: Harvey Miller When: Apr 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday (7 April 2004). Fifth bolt is a spinner.
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