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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tiger Stripe Wall : Shere Khan (aka A Fraction ... (5.10b)
By: harmonydoc When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No rap rings or bailout biners in evidence today. A single 70m works to set a TR and to rap. Still fun 3 years after my first time on this, hardest part is terrain past the first 2 bolts, after the initial bulge it all felt 5.8 or easier.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: harmonydoc When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the coolest route I have ever led! Great variety, the balls are a trip!
Warning: careful if rapping the route from the first or second belay ... the crack on the first pitch eats ropes. I saw at least 4 rope fragments jammed in there (in fact I cut the rope of the previous party that got their rope jammed on rappel at their request so they could retrieve part of it).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tiger Stripe Wall : Shere Khan (aka A Fraction ... (5.10b)
By: harmonydoc When: Mar 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new Roxanna Brock guidebook calls this A Fraction of the Action. I climbed it last weekend, my first lead at this difficulty level. Loved it! The difficulty came when it came to descend. Even though I was not at the middle mark when I got to the top, when I tossed the (60 meter) rope to rap I my partner kept telling me one end was 25 feet short of the ground (and those first 25 feet are the crux). Granted the wind kicked up and the rope was blowing, but it just didn't make sense! I end... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Caliban (5.8+ R)
By: harmonydoc When: Mar 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this last weekend. Very wandery, the climb traverses away from the bolt line a lot. I was expecting 4 bolts, I only found 3. Managed to get a green Camalot in a horizontal after bolt #3, but still ran it way out to the top. The terrain was moderate enough that I didn't feel too sketched, but I made the people watching from the ground nervous! Decent climb if you are OK with runouts and are comfortable at the grade, otherwise I wouldn't recommend it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: harmonydoc When: Mar 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this last weekend, I thought the whole thing was great! I'm a pretty new leader, took me some thought to figure out the start of the pitch 2 crack, but once I got in the swing of it things felt quite reasonable and secure. My 2 followers both thought pitch 2 was harder than pitch 1. We descended down the gully off climbers right, didn't rap, there were one or two sections that required a few technical moves, but nothing horribly intimidating. Took a while though, since we had to move... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Far Side, The (Mt. St. Hele... : Shute-Mills Route (5.8)
By: harmonydoc When: Feb 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, first bolt a bit high but otherwise well protected. Easier if you work your way up a gully to the right and approach the first bolt from that side. Also easier if you go left instead of straight over the bulge near the top. Probably 5.8 if you do these things, 5.9 if you stay on the line of the bolts. Shared anchor with New Tradition 5.7 to the left.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Cosumnes River Gorge : Struggler Cliff : Struggler (5.9)
By: harmonydoc When: Feb 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The most work I have ever done to gain 20 feet. Gnarly offwidth, it lived up to it's name!
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Bubble, The : Face, The Bubble Mt. St. He... (5.9)
By: harmonydoc When: Nov 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first sport lead (I currently lead 5.6/5.7 trad). Not strenuous, but some insecure moves. Moves aren't obvious, I had some trouble comitting (I don't know if the audience of hikers on the fire road was helping matters). Fun, though!
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