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Member Since: Jun 30, 2010
Last Visit: Nov 5, 2014
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Point Rank: # 4,169
Total Points: 104
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 78 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 26 | Stars 12 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Beckey-Chouinard (5.10)
By: harihari When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: A classic but serious-- if you are slow, weak or late, this thing will kick your ass, and bailing would be epic. Also note that if you have cloud cover, no moon, or both, it is VERY easy to lose your way on glaciers post-climb (esp if you are low on food or water). The people we rapped with bivvied at P-H col cos they couldn't find their way in fog back down to their tent in East Creek.

We did this route from Applebee and back in 21 hrs. B-S col was a deathtrap so we walked around the base o... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Canadian North Cascades : ... : Northeast Buttress (5.9)
By: harihari When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: Merran Fahlman and I did this route in July 2003.

We left a car at the end of the descent.

We camped on the logging road, got up at 5 and were walking at 6. We topped out around 4 PM and were back at second car around 9. My mistake was heading too far right at one point and climbing 2 pitches of 10+ which took forever (anchors). One should stick to ridge proper. All our beta came from McLane's Alpine Select and worked well.

Our rack was doubles of camalots from .3-#2, 1 #3,... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : New Life (5.11b)
By: harihari When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: P3 and P4 can be easily combined if you bring some long slings for the top of the V-slot.

P2, it's nice to have doubles of .4 and .5 Camalots.

The first 3 pitches of this route are generally dry even in the rain.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Venusian Blind (5.7)
By: harihari When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: I soloed this; it took maybe 1.5 hours. Michael Schneiter's beta is good, but I managed either to downclimb or bypass the Ibrium Tower (no idea where that traverse is). Excellent rock; what is loose is easy to avoid. The best climbing (and rock) is almost always on the arÍte. And those scary-looking towers always have easy ways off the back-- near the top I did maybe 3 5.8 moves to get off the last tower. Ignore Supertopo-- just stick to the arÍte andnyou'll have a grea... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Thunderbolt Peak : Thunderbolt to Sill Travers... (5.9 Easy Snow)
By: harihari When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: We did this as a party of 3 in about 5 hours from Winchell (sp?) col to Sill. We did two 30m raps and belayed for one 25m pitch. We soloed the rest of it. We did not tag Sill as our ice tools were buzzing in the storm. The best climbing is almost always right on the arÍte, where most of the towers that lOok scary bcome easily downclimbable.

I would bring a superlight rope, Camalots from .4 to #1, and a few nuts. If you are not OK soloing 5.6 or so, don't do this route-- you will li... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Liberty Crack (5.11- C2)
By: harihari When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: We did this easily in one day no fixing, leaving the car about 9:00 AM and the base of the route at around 11. We finished the raps and the descent gully as it was getting dark.

We brought two alpine aiders for each of us (very light), no pins hammers etc but if I did it again I would bring a couple of bashies, some of those 3-pronged hooks and a hammer as some of the bashies are crap.

I would bring a light alpine axe, no crampons, and not too much gear. Once you are done the roof pitch (bom... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Squamish Butt Face (5.9)
By: harihari When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: You do not need a #4 camalot for this. A .5 and a #1 or #2 perfectly protect that weird very cool flareg pseudo-chimney thingy.

If you have the option of doing this or the 10c, I would recommend the 10c-- it is a much cleaner, more direct etc pitch, but this is a great bypass for those who are tired and don't want to make the other 27 Sunday afternoon Buttress parties wait until dark while they aid the 10c pitch ;-)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Spectrum (5.11a)
By: harihari When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: Very good adventure climbing. I thought the roof was way harder than 11a but it's only 10 feet. Felt like V2 to me.

The route is either hard, or runout, but not both at the same time. Not a route for the budding 5.10 leader even tho most of it is in the 5.9 range...some serious runouts and the odd bit of sketchy rock.

At the top of P1, the traverse steps down and right. There is no gear for about the first 30 feet or so but the hardest move-- 5.9-- is right off the corner so even if you bl... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Rainbow Buttress (5.8)
By: harihari When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: Single rack to #4 and an extra .75 and #1 Camalot. Long slings. A few 5.9 moves. Bomber gear.

Combine pitches 1 & 2 and 4 & 5 with a 60m rope and some long slings (easy). Top of P5 does indeed need a #3 and #4 camalot for belay. great view from summit and beautiful, easy walk off-- about one hour back to where you walked up into Painted Bowl.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Five and Dime (5.10b)
By: harihari When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: More like 10+. Despite the odd position of the first two bolts, this is a SUPERB pitch. Bring small nuts, a .3 camalot, a blue alien and a #3 camalot.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Black Widow Hollow (5.9)
By: harihari When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: Super, esp P2. Rack-- singles of .3 to #4 camalot and long slings. The chimneys are hard 5.9


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: harihari When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: The stupidest route on the wall. "Can" does not equal "should."

It's basically the same moves and position for endless pitches. Sport wankers who want air love this. There is much more interesting climbing all over BV...if you arrive at the base of PoD and there are already 12 parties on it, consider yourself lucky...go climb Fiddler on the Roof, or DoWT, etc etc.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: harihari When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: This superb route is either run-out or hard, but generally not both at the same time. You want to be solid on 5.11- to do this: while the route maxes at 10+, it is heady, and falling is not an option in a few places, and then there is the insane position on the traverse pitch.

The first time I did it, my second whipped off the roof. It's a safe fall (there is bomber gear in the middle of the traverse). But the second MUST have prussiks/tiblocs etc, cos the only way out is to climb up the r... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: harihari When: Aug 16, 2011

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Comments: The totem pole was made in memory of local climber Ben DeMenech, who died in a fall around 2001. It was made and placed by local climbers.

Regarding linking and variations: P1 and 2 can be linked, so can many above. Just climb with your 60m rope till you run out of rope. i did the route yesterday in 5 hours (7 car to car)in 9 pitches.

The final option 10c corner/crack is excellent. The tree start is the best of the 3 starting options...when was the last time you got to climb a tree for 60... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Dark Star (5.10c)
By: harihari When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: Great route. Above description is good. We brought doubles in camalots from .3 to #2, one #3, and some nuts. Don't rope up for anything after the chimney except the 10a pitch-- this is a LOOOONG route and belaying everything will make it take forever. The majority of it is low 5th.

The crux is the first 2 pitches (10c and 10a/b) which have lots of bomber gear. Get an early start. if you aren't super-fast, bring a tagline so you can bail, or prepare to leave your entire rack be... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Mithril Dihedral (5.9) : Photo
By: harihari When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: I've always wondered...when Troutman is in his fly-fishing world, do the people there refer to him as "rock man"? Pick that banjo, boyeee!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Fishhook ArÍte (5.9)
By: harihari When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: 16/07/2011

I left Whitney Portal at 6;15, Iceberg lake at 8:45, base of Fish-hook at 9:45. Summited route at 11. It seemed 5.8 to me-- there was one hardish move maybe 90m off the ground, passing to left of a steep tower/small overhang. I was soloing so I dunno, things always feel different on a rope: I had really frozen hands and got kinda scared low-down, so I might have made the route easier than it should/could be.

Got down at 12:30, back at Iceberg at 1:30, climbed Whitney e... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : West Ridge, Mount Conness (5.6)
By: harihari When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: At a slide show a few years back, Croft said that-- after his 9,000 foot, one-day Karakoram 5.11 route-- this was his favorite rock route. Jokes notwithstanding (Q: What is Peter Croft's favorite rock route? A: Whatever he's just climbed), you can see why.

This is the best alpine rock route at its grade (and one of the best at ANY grade) I have done. You can EASILY free-solo it: there is one dicey section (the rock bridge) which is exposed, but easy; the rest is a 5.6 ladder on ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : The Polish Route (5.10+)
By: harihari When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: This is an EXCELLENT route.

The first pitch is a bit scrappy at the start, but the pro is plentiful and bomber.

The third pitch has a 4" off-width that emerges after a bit of stemming trickery, but this o/w should not scare you, because you can fiddle in good small stuff off to the edge.

Rack-- doubles in camalots from .3 to #4, smallish wires. You don't need a ton of slings.

At the top of the first pitch (which can be broken into 2 if you don't have loads of gear) there is a ba... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Darwin : Evolution Traverse (5.9)
By: harihari When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: Here is another TR with a great batch of photos.

pullharder.org/2007/09/10/how-...


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Darwin : Evolution Traverse (5.9)
By: harihari When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: I am collecting beta for this route from various sources.

This first beta/TR is from rockclimbing.com user Inominato-- thanks very much. Its original location is here: rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum...

OK: Here's the approach beta...

Drive up Hwy 168 out of Bishop, as if headed to the Buttermilks. Continue past that turn-off, pass through Aspendell, then take a right turn at the North Lake ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Heliotrope (5.8 R)
By: harihari When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: Best route up there. Bring a head-- serious runouts, albeit on easy terrain. Dunno why anybody would do Solar Slab when this is right there.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: harihari When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: An area classic. Killer pitches, route finding, some loose rock, awesome exposure, big air, no crowds make for a real adventure. Do it in a day.

George Bell's topo (above) got us through it. We left car at 5:15 AM, climbed at 7, topped at 4:30 and were back to car at 7:15. We simulclimbed (on tiblocs and grigri) about 6 pitches and took 1/2 hour for lunch atop P10.

If you have not done the approach, scope it on your rest day and stash your gear at the start, then get up early on send d... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Pink Tornado Left (5.9+)
By: harihari When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: Thanks to whoever wrote me (larry?). the Brock guide has P.T. left in totally the wrong spot. Should you end up on the left side of the flake, you can do the following:


I had doubles from .3 to #2 camalot and 1 #3 and #4. i woudl want doubles to #4, since the climbig is easy but can be somewhat runout with a skeletal rack and there are some very long pitches.

P1. Go up to the climbers'-left base of the big pyramid flake. There is a grayish sorta water groove, the... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson
By: harihari When: Oct 31, 2010

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Comments: Approach questions:

I want to do Pink Tornado and then Gondwanaland (sp?). The Brock book says, park on highway and walk in; others say, park at oak Creek parking and walk across to the base of Willy's (which I think you have to scramble up a bit of to get to the start of P.T.).

Anybody want to advise on the best approach?

chris


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