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Member Since: Sep 11, 2002
Last Visit: Oct 12, 2004
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Point Rank: # 12,537
Total Points: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 12 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 11 | Posts | Stars 1 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Clamydia (5.11d)
By: Hank Sato When: Oct 12, 2004

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Comments: I normally do not write comments until I send the route, but since it will take time for me to send this route, I adding my comments. I enjoyed trying this route with Paul and Nhon. To me this route is harder than a few 5.12a's I sent at Castle. I felt the crux move is about V5 and the grade may be 12a or harder. (Bruce Morris once told me that the hold broke in this route, so the route may be actually harder.) This route is also temperature-dependent, and the cooler the temperature is, the ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Underworld Rock : Drug Lord (5.10c)
By: Hank Sato When: Aug 23, 2004

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Comments: Direct Start (Left Side of Arete) is rated 5.11A. If you keep climbing left side of the 1st bolt of the direct start using flakes, I felt rating is not hard (maybe 5.10). I also went up from the right side of the 1st bolt directly going up the arete using slopers. This move is more fun and a bit scary, and maybe 11A (but not so hard once you know the move). Which every you choose to go, you almost feel like skipping the 2nd bolt (which is the 3d bolt of the 10C start).


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief : South Cave : Flying High Again (5.11b)
By: Hank Sato When: May 27, 2004

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Comments: Overhangy, but very similar to gym climbing. Myabe over-rated? If you can climb overhangy 11b in the gym, you should try to on-sight this route. I think this route is easier to on-sight than Realm of the Overhang though this route is rated harder. Do not give up the crux move and just fly high!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Putrefaction (5.11a)
By: Hank Sato When: May 27, 2004

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Comments: This is one of the hardest 11a I have ever climbed. The lower slab (10C?) section is very nices. The crux move is very boulderly. I did the undercling way. I think on-sighting this route may be difficult compared with other standard 5.11a's.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : Cave Routes : Dwarf Toss (5.11d)
By: Hank Sato When: May 24, 2004

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Comments: I am 175cm tall and chose the traverse start since direct start is too hard for me (with my height). If you traverse, the start 5 moves are the Crux. I would say the rest (from 2nd cilp to the anchor) is 5.9 to 5.10-.The first move to slap the slopey roof is a committed move as you get a swing if you fall. The belayer should be very attentive. For me, the first 5 moves isV3+ or V4 boulder problem. If you are 6 feet tall or so, you can do the direct start to avoid the nasty swing.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Billy Goat Rock : Permanent Erection (5.11a)
By: Hank Sato When: Jan 5, 2004

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Comments: I fel the crux move is a bit harder than 5.11a. There may be a possibility that the crucial hold broke, making it a little harder?? (Persoannly, I felt the 5.11B/C route to the right of Permanet Erection is easier or at an eaual difficulty level.) Anyway, this is a very good climb.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief : Center Wall : Pow Wow (5.11a)
By: Hank Sato When: Oct 25, 2002

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Comments: This is a very jugular and enjoyable route. Not so hard for 5.11A, I think.Try to on-sight and go for the last move!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : The Muffins : Burnt Muffin (5.11b/c)
By: Hank Sato When: Sep 20, 2002

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Comments: If you believe in your feet (smear), I think the crux move is not so hard.Send it!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Indian Rock : Hocus (5.11b R)
By: Hank Sato When: Sep 20, 2002

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Comments: This is rather a very awkward route for me! If you are only pulling plastics in the gym, you will find this route very difficult as this requires a lot of balancy and interesting moves that you do not encounter in the gym. I put a longer sling to the 2nd bolt to avoid the potential groundfall.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Summit Rock : Rectalphobiac (5.11b R)
By: Hank Sato When: Sep 11, 2002

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Comments: This is really an ejoyable route. I felt this is mentally harder than Skill Saw Groumet (11D) for me. I brought a sling to garth hitch to the pillow to protectthe 2nd clip (or the 3rd clip? if you clip to the left side bolt near the first bolt). Though the crux is a slab section with arete, my arms were really pumped!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : The Globule : Baby Fat (5.11a R)
By: Hank Sato When: Sep 11, 2002

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Comments: This is a nice route. The overhanging start is not so hard once you figure out the move, but I felt the last 10D face section is harder.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Clamydia 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Waterfall Cliff