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Once you have Black, you will fear to go back...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 50
Total Points: 7,347
Last Year: 365
Last 30 Days: 9
367 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Guy H. been climbing?










Contributions


All 4337 | Routes 383 | Areas 44 | Photos 495 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 376 | Posts 181 | Stars 2554 | Ratings 302
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Age Axe (5.10b)
By: Guy H. When: 6 days ago

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Comments: You can place a "bomber" 000 C3 in the pin scar at the base of the dihedral on P2. Those moves are really cool and rewarding once you commit! Save a #0.2 X4 for the moves back left to the belay. It is a looong ways to good gear at that point. The last half of P2 is probably 5.7 R/X rated. There are some crappy small cam placements in some overlaps, but if these ripped you would ledgefall from 80-100 ft up.

The death block on the final pitch will cut you in half if you pulled it off. It wa... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall
By: Guy H. When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: If you find yourself repeating the same route over and over again in the Park, try ticking off the 5.9 Cathedral circuit.

Tourist Tragedy, 5.9
Dalke Route, 5.9R
Kor Route, 5.9R
Alter Boy, 5.9R
The Pew, 5.9R.

Simulating climbing, short approach, and lots of sun!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : The Pew (5.9 R)
By: Guy H. When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Of the five 5.9s on Cathedral, I found this one to have the most difficult route finding. Every pitch appeared to have 2-3 lines to the next belay. The climbing was very time consuming, since you often place gear in a short crack and then face climb back and forth to keep the climbing on good rock and near the intended grade. I had the feeling of being off and on route the whole time I was climbing.

You don't need a double set of small nuts, since I only placed maybe 3-4 nuts per pitch. It mig... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index
By: Guy H. When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: We stopped here for a short afternoon on a road trip. We came back to our truck, as it was being scoped out. There was a lookout on the trail with a cell phone texting the person in the parking lot. I would think twice before leaving any gear in your car in this area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : East Face/Dinosaur Rock (5.4)
By: Guy H. When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: My description could very well be off. It was 15yrs ago when I climbed it, so I don't remember anything. I was probably using the Roach guidebook, but I have been known to get off route.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Last in Show (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 23, 2015

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Comments: The climbing on this one is actually pretty cool, but it is one of the most chossy climbs at the Palace. You will get pump out of your mind testing every hold and sequence, since everything looks like it will pop off in your face!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Suburbia (5.10b/c)
By: Guy H. When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: You are correct, Adam, you will deck if you are not playing attention. This doesn't mean we need to add another bolt. It would most likely get chopped....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Metropolis (5.11d)
By: Guy H. When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: I have always thought the bolt positions gave the route some character. Yes, you don't have a bolt at you waist for the crux. It forces you to climb with confidence.

[Edit: If you are wanting a route that you whip at any point, I would suggest some of the newer routes at Shelf. The other option is 15ft stick clip for the 2nd bolt.]


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: The first clip looks scary, since the sling would probably unclip from the biner in this configuration.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: I was assuming that it wasn't you. I just feel sorry for the next guy who pulls his rope down in the left over ash.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: Hmmm... starting a fire at the base of a climb? I am sorry you got cold, but this seem like a questionable practice.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Dec 14, 2014

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Comments: Everyone should write an email to "FiveTen" and let them know what they think of one of their sponsored athletes.

Here is the only email link that I could find:
support.fiveten.com/chat.php


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Great topo, Chris! We did the 5.9 mixed crack pitch, which was incredible. I highly recommend that you bring a #5 and #6, it will speed things up. We forgot the #4 C4 at the truck but had a #3 C4 and #4 Friend. This worked well, if you want to save some weight.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : The Imagination Wall : Central Slab Area : The Imaginator (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Yep... The second pitch is R rated. Once you pull around the roof you have to do a committing 5.11 move to clip the bolt with bad feet. If you screw up, you will hit the slab below. Too bad the bolt above the roof isn't 2ft lower. The first pitch is amazing, except for the crappy hanging belay.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : The Imagination Wall : Left Wall : Learning to Fly (5.10d)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Don't waste your time on this one. The first pitch is OK, but the second is horrible. There is lots of loose rock and forced movement that is harder than the grade. Maybe all of the holds that made it 5.10 broke off already?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Guy H. When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: A slackline can produce 1000's lbs of force in the direction of line. A climber only acts in the direction of gravity. With the tilted cap stone, a slackline on this formation was a poor choice. I am sure they made a cool video, though.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: I think it is more of a stop taking my f'ing picture look. I have seen that one before.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: It almost looks like the traverse into Space Invaders right below the first bolt, but it is the final traverse on Outer Space near the 2nd to last pin.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall
By: Guy H. When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: There are ~7 bolted/mixed routes to the left of "Sun and Steel". At least one of them has 3+ pitches and tops out to the left.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : East Corner
By: Guy H. When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Standing on the slabs below Spectreman, you can see the routes on the East Corner. The fastest approach to the area goes right by Spectreman, so this is the best reference point. You will have to hike through the trees with no defined trail. It is 200-300yrds SW of Spectremen. Sorry you guys couldn't find it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Bell Air (5.11b/c)
By: Guy H. When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: The hornet nest is gone. The poor bolting on P2 still remains. The 1st bolt is in a weird spot based on where the anchors are located. You will cross load your biner, so don't fall before clipping the second bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Disneyland (5.11d)
By: Guy H. When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: Be careful of the sharp edge on the dihedral @ 2nd to last bolt. It could cut your rope if you were unlucky!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : The Lifus's Farm Tools (5.10b)
By: Guy H. When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: If you move left at the last bolt, it is very straightforward, and it doesn't feel runout or cruxy.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Torture Chamber : WTF (5.8)
By: Guy H. When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: All of the first ascents you are claiming were probably solo'ed 20+ years ago.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : A Midsummer's Night Dream (5.11a)
By: Guy H. When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: There is currently a fixed #4 on the Sex Comedy finish. We only had one #3 and #4, which worked out with back cleaning the #3 once.


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