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Crux roof on Freeway...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 49
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All (3836) | Routes (361) | Areas (40) | Photos (477) | Comments (352) | Posts (144) | Stars (2187) | Ratings (275)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : A Midsummer's Night Dream (5.11a)
By: Guy H. When: 6 days ago

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Comments: There is currently a fixed #4 on the Sex Comedy finish. We only had one #3 and #4, which worked out with back cleaning the #3 once.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Walk of Shame (V-easy X)
By: Guy H. When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I wonder how many climbers have done this when they discovered they didn't have their climbing shoes when they reached the base. We reached the base of Scenic Cruise in the dark, in order to beat an approaching winter storm to the top. Somewhere on the descent, my climbing shoes came unclipped from my harness. After reaching the top of the second rap, we found them sitting on a rock. We decided to not press our luck and climb Midsummer's instead. The storm rolled in about 1pm and after our fi... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Slab Route (5.7) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Nope, just a rope shadow...


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The New Philanthropists (5.11b/c)
By: Guy H. When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: The anchor bolts are in a hollow flake. A little scary....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Atalanta (5.3)
By: Guy H. When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: I did an interesting variation above the first tree. Head left to a ramp system that turns into a hanging dihedral. The ramp slowing disppears until the crux bulge (5.6). It is very exposed with good rock (poor pro).


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Nod (formerly submitted...
By: Guy H. When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: There are 3-4 routes to the right of the "Nod" area that might be worth doing. Head right from the base and you should see the routes.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kung Fu Theater : Inner Chi (5.11)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: There are now two bolts at the anchor.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Eden Wall : West of Eden (5.10b PG13)
By: Guy H. When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: OK, maybe this one does deserve the "R" rating. If you blow the crux move at the top and that purple C3 blows, you are going for a big ride!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Central Ridgeline, includin... : Finger Ripper (V3)
By: Guy H. When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: Mark Wilford showed me an interesting variation to this problem. Instead of reaching for the high RH side-pull, use the upside down undercling hold for your right hand about 6 inches lower. Very tricky and fun, give it a try!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Highway 61 Revisited (5.10+)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: The bird shit is about a 3 out 10 on the crap-o-meter on P5. Nothing to be concerned with. I thought this route was more sustained and physical than Scenic Cruise! The ear on P4 is slightly committing but easier than it looks. A #5 halfway out the ear will calm the nerves. P2 is probably closer to 5.8-9 and 215 ft long. I ended up doing some harder moves with 30 ft runouts to avoid the bad rock. We didn't place any RPs, but a couple small TCUs did get used.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: On Aug. 24th, some guys were doing a long 2 rope rap near CG and dislodged a 0.75 cam when they pulled the rope. Not sure who they were though....


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs
By: Guy H. When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Will, someone went a little crazy with the bolts on previously climbed lines. The climbs were probably returned to the original state before someone got a drill for Christmas.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Warhead (5.9)
By: Guy H. When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Pitch two is a rewarding lead, it is harder than COAM, Loose-J, or High Plains Drifter at Lumpy! You are looking at a 20-25 footer if you mess up the high steps at the end of the slab. It looks like you can bypass this difficulty on the right as Justin mentions above, though.

Bad ass for 1975, indeed!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: The std descent gully takes you back to your packs and is not the one in the picture. It is extremely well traveled and marked.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Funky Gold Patina (5.10d)
By: Guy H. When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: Steve, are you a Tone Loc Fan?



Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Cold Turkey (5.9+)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: The horn in the chimney is gone. There is a nice foot in its place.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Ragged Edges (5.8) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Mar 5, 2013

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Comments: This P1 of Plan F...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Funeral March (5.9)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: About 75 pounds of rock came out of the upper section this weekend. It is probably best to cut left to the hand crack finish. Scary!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: The easiest path down climbs 4-5 feet then traverses to the next bolt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Endgame (5.10a)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: It is possible to rap back down to your packs with two ropes. We had a 63M static & a 70M.

Make 2 two single rope raps from the summit to the P3 belay. You might be able to do these with a 60M. We used a 70M, with low potential for stuck ropes. Then make two double rope raps using the Jimmywacky P1 anchors. (50M and 61M) There are potential rope issues, so think about how you pull your ropes and scope out the chicken heads on the way down!

I only placed a #0.75, #1, and a larg... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : East Face (5.10a)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: You can place two small C3's after pulling the roof and before the bolt. I placed them from a funky double knee bar, which made the route for me. Lots of fun climbing for a short route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: Yep, that is Iron Horse....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: There are 2 fixed #3 cams on this pitch. You really don't even need to bring a #3, if you are solid on big hand cracks.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Lovely Liana (5.11b)
By: Guy H. When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: There is still a little bit of flaky rock on this pitch, but the face climbing is high quality with good protection. A single set of camalots from 0.5 to #4 friend will protect the upper hand crack. Doubles from 0.75 to 3 will sew it up.



Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Specter (5.10d)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: I have to agree with Chris on this one. Felt pretty hard for 5.10d. Excellent climbing though....


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