Comments: I wonder how many climbers have done this when they discovered they didn't have their climbing shoes when they reached the base. We reached the base of Scenic Cruise in the dark, in order to beat an approaching winter storm to the top. Somewhere on the descent, my climbing shoes came unclipped from my harness. After reaching the top of the second rap, we found them sitting on a rock. We decided to not press our luck and climb Midsummer's instead. The storm rolled in about 1pm and after our fi... more >>
Comments: I did an interesting variation above the first tree. Head left to a ramp system that turns into a hanging dihedral. The ramp slowing disppears until the crux bulge (5.6). It is very exposed with good rock (poor pro).
Comments: Mark Wilford showed me an interesting variation to this problem. Instead of reaching for the high RH side-pull, use the upside down undercling hold for your right hand about 6 inches lower. Very tricky and fun, give it a try!
Comments: The bird shit is about a 3 out 10 on the crap-o-meter on P5. Nothing to be concerned with. I thought this route was more sustained and physical than Scenic Cruise! The ear on P4 is slightly committing but easier than it looks. A #5 halfway out the ear will calm the nerves. P2 is probably closer to 5.8-9 and 215 ft long. I ended up doing some harder moves with 30 ft runouts to avoid the bad rock. We didn't place any RPs, but a couple small TCUs did get used.
Comments: Pitch two is a rewarding lead, it is harder than COAM, Loose-J, or High Plains Drifter at Lumpy! You are looking at a 20-25 footer if you mess up the high steps at the end of the slab. It looks like you can bypass this difficulty on the right as Justin mentions above, though.
Comments: It is possible to rap back down to your packs with two ropes. We had a 63M static & a 70M.
Make 2 two single rope raps from the summit to the P3 belay. You might be able to do these with a 60M. We used a 70M, with low potential for stuck ropes. Then make two double rope raps using the Jimmywacky P1 anchors. (50M and 61M) There are potential rope issues, so think about how you pull your ropes and scope out the chicken heads on the way down!
Comments: There is still a little bit of flaky rock on this pitch, but the face climbing is high quality with good protection. A single set of camalots from 0.5 to #4 friend will protect the upper hand crack. Doubles from 0.75 to 3 will sew it up.