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Rock Climbing Photo: Once you have Black, you will fear to go back...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Guy H.
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Point Rank: # 52
Total Points: 7,614
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 4709 | Routes 402 | Areas 44 | Photos 507 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 393 | Posts 200 | Stars 2846 | Ratings 315
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : The O-Face (5.11d)
By: Guy H. When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: Great route with lots of variety.... The hanger for the 6th bolt was on the ground when we did it. We placed it back on, but it is only hand tightened. If you have a wrench, it might be a good idea to give it a crank.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Better than Watching TV (pr... (5.11d)
By: Guy H. When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: The bolts have been replaced on the first pitch, and a direct start appears to be added.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Puking Yuppies (5.11a PG13)
By: Guy H. When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: I think Bob's book has the ratings reversed. The left line is 5.11c, and the middle line which requires gear is 5.11a. It probably feels harder, since the bolts are very old and getting gear in the upper crack is from a pumpy stance.

NOTE: the pictures above show the bolts on the left line being clipped and not the middle line.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Bachar Up Against The Wall... (5.11b)
By: Guy H. When: May 8, 2016

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Comments: Crappy bolt positions, especially the last one.... The cruxes come when you try and clip them!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Slippery Buttress : The Undertone (5.10d)
By: Guy H. When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: You should bring some "large" RPs or a good selection of small nuts for P1.

It looked like you could get down with one 70M rope if you swing to the right and down climb a small pillar.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Slacks (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: You can place a 0.4 C4 in the pin hole above the lip if you like.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tuna and Chips Wall : Chips Ahoy (5.9)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch probably R/X rated since none of the gear before the bolt at 50ft will probably hold a fall. I placed two tiny RPs, a 0.1 X4, and slung a small flake.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eden Area : ... : Garden Of Eden (5.11a)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: You can lower off with an 80m, if you clean the gear.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Pine Nuts (5.10b)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: Has anyone tried to rap P2 with a 80M rope?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10b)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Yep... A 80M works...


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Scepter : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: This is Hantavirus (5.10d) around the corner on the right. Fun climb with cool finish....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Old Dihedral (5.7)
By: Guy H. When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: A set of nuts and cams to 0.75 is more than enough gear....


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Fat Grandma : Everything's Big In Texas (5.10a)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Watch out for the wasp in the "X"ed pocket.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: Currently the easy sections of the Edge are heavily ticked. Every edge and foothold have large ticks in the 5.8-9 sections. I can only assume this was done as part of a speed ascent. Even the downclimb has tick marks. I am all for folks pushing their limits, but these eye sores really detract from the climbing. I felt like I was gym climbing.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Guy H. When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: When these bolts finally get replaced, I remember the first bolt on P6 being difficult to clip. Maybe I went the wrong way or was just scared silly, but I remember the easier climbing being right of the bolt. As with many of the pitches, a fall before the first bolt would be a bad ledge fall. Moving the bolt to the right 6 inches would help.

We should also contact Rossiter to see if he has any input.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: This is Outerspace.... I just looks different from this angle.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Yep... you need two ropes. 60m ropes are nice, I haven't tried it with anything shorter.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Age Axe (5.10b)
By: Guy H. When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: You can place a "bomber" 000 C3 in the pin scar at the base of the dihedral on P2. Those moves are really cool and rewarding once you commit! Save a #0.2 X4 for the moves back left to the belay. It is a looong ways to good gear at that point. The last half of P2 is probably 5.7 R/X rated. There are some crappy small cam placements in some overlaps, but if these ripped you would ledgefall from 80-100 ft up.

The death block on the final pitch will cut you in half if you pulled it off. It wa... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall
By: Guy H. When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: If you find yourself repeating the same route over and over again in the Park, try ticking off the 5.9 Cathedral circuit.

Tourist Tragedy, 5.9
Dalke Route, 5.9R
Kor Route, 5.9R
Alter Boy, 5.9R
The Pew, 5.9R.

Simulating climbing, short approach, and lots of sun!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : The Pew (5.9 R)
By: Guy H. When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Of the five 5.9s on Cathedral, I found this one to have the most difficult route finding. Every pitch appeared to have 2-3 lines to the next belay. The climbing was very time consuming, since you often place gear in a short crack and then face climb back and forth to keep the climbing on good rock and near the intended grade. I had the feeling of being off and on route the whole time I was climbing.

You don't need a double set of small nuts, since I only placed maybe 3-4 nuts per pitch. It mig... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index
By: Guy H. When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: We stopped here for a short afternoon on a road trip. We came back to our truck, as it was being scoped out. There was a lookout on the trail with a cell phone texting the person in the parking lot. I would think twice before leaving any gear in your car in this area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : East Face/Dinosaur Rock (5.4)
By: Guy H. When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: My description could very well be off. It was 15yrs ago when I climbed it, so I don't remember anything. I was probably using the Roach guidebook, but I have been known to get off route.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Last in Show (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 23, 2015

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Comments: The climbing on this one is actually pretty cool, but it is one of the most chossy climbs at the Palace. You will get pump out of your mind testing every hold and sequence, since everything looks like it will pop off in your face!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Suburbia (5.10b/c)
By: Guy H. When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: You are correct, Adam, you will deck if you are not playing attention. This doesn't mean we need to add another bolt. It would most likely get chopped....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Metropolis (5.11d)
By: Guy H. When: Feb 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I have always thought the bolt positions gave the route some character. Yes, you don't have a bolt at you waist for the crux. It forces you to climb with confidence.

[Edit: If you are wanting a route that you whip at any point, I would suggest some of the newer routes at Shelf. The other option is 15ft stick clip for the 2nd bolt.]


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